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Ian Mat

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  1. Ian Mat
    Ian Mat joined the community
  2. Ian Mat
    Andrew, The eflite electric retracts are fine, its the robart pneumatic retracts that are no good, they're way too flimsy. I would highly recommend fitting some type of spring loaded oleos to the retract units, they will prolong the life of your undercarriage. Also make sure you building it as light as possible, you should get away with not having to add lead, if you're prepared to fit the flight batteries in the cowl, which is what I did, instead of fitting nearly a pound of lead!!!
  3. Ian Mat
    Jon, I'm surprised that you found the TF corsair tipstally... mine flies like a trainer... I've yet to find any vices! Andrew, when the flaps are installed there should be a clean line from the leading edge of the wing, to the trailing edge of the flap. You may need to sand the flaps down to achieve this. Looked at in cross section the flap should follow the natural curves of the rest of the wing. For what my opinion is worth, I would avoid the robart retracts and fit eflite electric twist and turns, unless you are flying from tarmac and are supremely confident in you lading ability!
  4. Ian Mat
    Gents, I am moving to Canada for a couple of years and will probably not be able to take all my models with me, so I need to put them in storage. I'm having trouble trying to work out the best (and cheapest) way to package them. They will be stored in a heated lock-up (at my employers expense) so I'm not worried about degradation, just need to ensure that they get there safely. My first though was to package all the wings in a suitable sized box, with spacers, to prevent them from damaging each other. then find suitable sized boxes for each fuselage, or possibly package 2 fuselages together. Should I remove the engines, or just oil them up and bag them on the model (which I'd prefer to do). Any thoughts or prior experience welcome!
  5. Ian Mat
    You could always try calling them... 01753 522222.
  6. Ian Mat
    Well, I've spent about half an hour mucking around with rulers, cardboard and knives and think I have something close. It's very frustrating though, when I get close, I slice off the tiniest sliver of card and then it is too small! I think from previous experience, slightly loose is fine, the epoxy will fill the gap.
  7. Ian Mat
    Thanks David, that was my plan B... I'm worried that the wing former is critical in setting the dihedral. Although the fact that it appears straight on the top edge makes things easier. I'll have a stab at that method.
  8. Ian Mat
    Thanks Cymaz, I had seen that, however I don't know how common the parts are between the artf and the builder's kit. I have an F4u artf and kit and there are some significant differences between them. Looking the in the manual for the arft, which I have downloaded, the part looks fairly simple but I'm struggling with dimensions.
  9. Ian Mat
    I recently bought a second hand Topflite Mustang artf complete with a Saito 125 engine. The wing was damaged from a landing gear issue on landing, however the sale included a spare wing half and I was able to obtain a matching right hand wing from a german model shop. I've managed to remove the fibreglass parts from the old wing (the belly scoop and wing cover.) and most of the other common parts that I need. The only issue I now have is the plywood wing joiner that goes between the 2 halves... obviously this is coated in epoxy and extremely difficult to recycle... Does anyone have a unmade model and can provide a sketch or dimensions for the joiner so that I can make a new one and get this beautiful model in the air? For reference the Topflite part number for the complete kit is TOPA0950. Thanks!
  10. Ian Mat
    I am tempted to make the spitfire electric, however I already have a suitable saito 100 that has just had new bearings! I'm also guessing that a model that size would need 5 or 6 cell power, which I don't have the infrastructure for.
  11. Ian Mat
    Thanks very much for that Simon, That sounds like a good solution, my only problem is that the blackhorse spitfire has printed film and the decals already applied. I wonder how I could test the model without damaging it! I might just order a few cans of that anyway, because it will come in useful for other jobs!
  12. Ian Mat
    I'm hoping to gain some advice from you knowledgable lot! I recently added a Blackhorse Spitfire to my squadron, its yet to be assembled. I think the level of detail is quite impressive, however its let down by the glossy film finish. I think if I could make it less glossy, it would look far more realistic, much like the Topflite models I have covered in Oracover. Is there any was of applying a satin varnish that would fit the bill, bearing in mind that this will be powered by a glo engine. Any suggestions greatly received!
  13. Ian Mat

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    Ian Mat replied to Tom Thomas's topic in Chit-chat

    I have only ever received excellent advice from Jon and thoroughly enjoyed reading his post, which have increased my understanding of this hobby massively. I can't believe that there are such small minded people who don't understand the time it must take Jon to write the number of posts he does, in which the vast majority are not blatant advertising... far from it. This forum would be far better off with more contributors like Jon and less of Tom and Doug.
  14. Ian Mat
    Some more shots of the Corsair, this time with the cowl. I love this model more, every time I fly it. Topflite have made a fantastic good looking model!
  15. Ian Mat

    Ian Mat posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  16. Ian Mat

    Ian Mat posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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