Paul Adams
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Everything posted by Paul Adams
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I agree totally about joining a club not only will you get advice and help, but you can fly in a safe environment and flying alone gets pretty boring. One very important thing though is if you have reversed the throttle rebind the receiver to the transmitter with the throttle at its lowest setting (closed). This is a safety measure as if ever your model looses contact with your transmitter it will go to fail safe position, ie the position you bound it in. If you have bound the RX to the TX and then reversed the throttle this will be now at full trottle propelling the model towards the ground, building, tree or god forbid a person.
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I think the down thrust needs adjusting Keep the post going as looking at getting one myself. Changing to two elevator servos I agree must be a a good idea. Anyone else flown one yet, and if so any videos
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I had the same problem, the instructions show the joiner being flat on one side and not the other, but the joiner I had was near enough symmetrical. So I just glued it in place and everything aligned ok.
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Hi Trebor, I was teaching a beginner at the weekend with the controls turned down so far it made recovery from a mistake very difficult, It was set up with 20 % expo in an attempt to soften the area around neutral, but the beginner was having problems with flying the model smoothly. He sounded very similar to you as he also played a lot on a play station and whilst the model tried to fly level and smooth, his thumbs never stopped upsetting the models flight. This resulted in very erratic flying. A possible solutions and one that I have used before, is to suggest using finger and thumbs, It breaks the habit of mussel memory used on play station, so may work. Alternatively just try and move the sticks very slowly and smoothly using your thumbs. It will take some practice to break the habit, but it can be done. Talk to your instructor about could the throws be reduced, but throws are always a compromise, Small throws required to prevent over correction by the beginner, larger throws required by the instructor to correct the model mistakes and stop the model from crashing.
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I will second Steve's comment. Nothing in the south of England either. Looked at building a Provost last year, but decided against due to the distance to travel to an event (600 miles round trip). Will have a go stirring up the locals to see if I can get a few of us interested in holding an event in the south.
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Can also try putting some brake cable or snake inner inside the tube before bending. Slightly over bend and then bend it back. The brake cable / snake inner can then be pulled out.
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Thanks for the info. My reason foe asking is that I purchased a Receiver Life battery, but it does not come with a standard JR / Futaba receiver connector, so had to modify the leads. This battery does come with a standard connector, but is marked Transmitter? By the way I have fitted high voltage servo's to a model, Spectrum receivers work up to 9 volts, so wil not need a BEC. I have been using 5 cell NiMH batteries as was finding that 4 cell with high power digital servo's kept causing the receiver to brown out. But these wont charge with a standard radio charger, so have resorted to using my electric chargers to charge overnight. The Life batteries can be quick charged and keep their charge well.
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Is there any reason I can not / should not use a Turnigy nano-tech 2000mAh 2S1P 20~40C LiFePo4 Transmitter battery as a receiver battery. **LINK** 6.6 volt, capable of supplying 40 amps constantly and supplied with a standard receiver battery pack plug.sounds ideal to me, so why is it specified as a Transmitter battery?
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A friend from work was given an automatic hire car and he is used to driving a manual. All went well until he changed gear whilst moving, and inadvertently selected park. The transmission locked, causing the car to skid to a halt. No harm done you would think, but unfortunately the person driving the car behind him had no warning of what was happening (the brake lights don't light when you select park) and crashed into him. Thank god no one was hurt, but the person behind insurance must have got a bit of a hammering.
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Or could be a Typhoon slope Soarer **LINK**
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The only way I could get mine below the noise limit was to fit a canister exhaust. Makes a neat installation:-
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Have You Tried To Renew Your Vehicle Tax Today?
Paul Adams replied to Dai Fledermaus's topic in Chit-chat
Since the tax is not transferred, does that mean when you purchase a car from a private seller that:- You need to tax it before you can drive it on the road? Can you tax a car who is owed by someone else? If not how do you tax the car before you drive it home? Is your insurance valid for an un-taxed car? -
Looking for a club near Eastleigh, Southampton
Paul Adams replied to Ian Mat's topic in Flying Sites and Clubs
Hi Ian There are a few clubs in our area and I belong to Firebirds Model Club. We have both Mode 1 and Mode 2 instructors ( I am one of the Mode 2 instructors). For further details see our Web site:- **LINK** Our flying site is in Curdridge and our main flyings times are Saturday 10:00 until 1400 hrs and Sunday 10:00 until 13:00. If you want to know more details message me or contact our membership :-secretary [email protected] Regards Paul -
A question on method. You fasten the sheet to the frame, do you then close it onto the formers and use the heat gun to soften the sheet sufficiently to close the lid fully down, then switch on the vacuum and continue heating the sheet in areas that are not fully sucked down, or do you heat the whole sheet and when pliable enough lower the frame and switch on the vacuum in one operation?
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The battery pack shows that it was a NiCad which were discontinued many years ago. I think that this may be be cause of your problems. Question: Did you set the fail safe before flying, the reason I ask is that I had a similar problem many years ago (admittedly with Futaba 35MHz) where the motor went to tick over after flying for a couple of minutes. I landed the model and tried to find out what was happening to the engine. In the pits it did the same thing, but I noticed the servo's were getting slow. So checked the pack voltage and it was well down. On reading the Futaba instructions later that night, I found that when the receiver battery voltage falls being a value, it sets the motor to its fail safe position (in my case tick over). So if you had not set the fail safe to tick over, its possible that it did the same with your model, at which time it flew until the battery finally failed completely. Just a thought. Its sad to see a model in such a state, and I don't think PVA will be much use Regards Paul
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I think the question is would you be willing to risk a model, engine, servo's etc to the chance that you have successfully repaired the receiver and it wont fail under vibration or heat. Personally I don't think its worth the risk. Regards Paul PS in answer to your question about missing an aerial, depending on the receiver type, the aerial is the smaller diameter part which sticks out the end of the larger diameter aerial cable. As such if you are missing the end part, that is the aerial and all your left with is the cable which could be shorting to the outer. It may be worth carefully cutting back the outer to give you the same length of inner as the other aerial and retry binding. It may work.
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I have a couple of OS Max 20's that have been sitting in the draw for a long time waiting for a model such as this. Do I need to scale it up to account for two 20's instead two 15's, and if so by how much, or would it handle the power ok? I was thinking that as it should have 25% more power, it may need the wing span increasing to 60". This would increase the wing area by about 25%. Does this seem about right? Paul
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Seagull Yak 54 (91 Deluxe Series)
Paul Adams replied to Ross Clarkson's topic in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews
Hi Martin, I agree, but do you use full throws at full throttle in a dive? probably not. The maths show that If you use 72 % of the throw when at 120 mph, you would require the same servo torque (The maths behind the torque requirement shows that the torque is proportional to the speed but is a square of the amount of throw, so 100% throw at 80 mph gives the same torque requirement as 72% of the throw at 120 mph). There are other variables which also effect the torque. For example if you use less than 100% travel on your transmitter you need to increase the torque (70% travel requires more than double the torque). So best to keep the travels at 100% + and adjust the push rods to get the correct throw. As stated above, this is the minimum torque value and I would always use servo's with a bit of extra torque, just to be on the safe side. -
Last weekend after flying I realised that the Servo's were covered in mud and water - Not a good idea. So this weekend I thought what can I do to prevent this. The mud / water comes from the wheels picking up the mud / water which it throws up onto the underside of the wing, and due to the design of the model it throws it on the servo. So Sunday morning as I was getting ready to go flying I wondered what I could do quickly to stop this from happening. I tried to find wheel cowls, but this was going to take to long, so the next idea was to use duct tape as below:- As you can see from the mud it works well. The mud flaps are made my folding back about 50 mm of duct tape back onto itself (prevents the tape sticking to the servo arm) and then cutting off an additional 20 mm which is used to stick the mud flap to the wing in front of the servo. Took two minutes to make and my servo's were dry and mud free. I did not notice any effect on the flying performance, so may do it to more of my models, perhaps using 50mm wide clear tape, so that its not so obvious.
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Fantastic Photography, you have a brillient eye. What camera / lens were you using?
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Seagull Yak 54 (91 Deluxe Series)
Paul Adams replied to Ross Clarkson's topic in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews
I calculated the torque required from each Servo using a Servo Torque Calculator (**LINK**) and taking the max air speed of 80 MPH and using the aerobatic flying throws calculates that you will require servo's with at least the following Torque values:- Elevator 2.6 Kg/cm Aileron 2.8 Kg/cm Rudder 5.5 Kg/cm If you set the throws greater than the aerobatic settings, the torque values will be even higher. -
Seagull Yak 54 (91 Deluxe Series)
Paul Adams replied to Ross Clarkson's topic in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews
I always check the C of G setting using this calculator and it’s never let me down, unlike the measurements supplied with many ARTF, kits and Plans. I have a OS 120 2 stroke in mine, and power is not a problem, but wish I had used a petrol engine due to the heavy fuel use and the oily residue from the exhaust. Only problem I have had with the Yak so far has been the engine cowling securing which due to the size of the cowl keep vibrating loose especially since they are not screwed into much. I have resulted in fitting wooden blocks to the front bulkhead and then fitting proper screws into the blocks. It has never vibrated loose since. The only other tip I would say is to blank off at least 50% of the front of the cowl to direct the airflow over the cylinder head, otherwise it will overheat (insufficient exit holes for size of intake). Brilliant model to fly though. -
cloosed loop on elevator
Paul Adams replied to fly boy3's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Standard on Weston Mini Hype. Closed loop to each elevator plus rudder (6 cables in all). Works very well and gives very good control of the surfaces whilst keeping the servo's at the front of the aircraft. Only problem was installing the cables so that they do not rub against each other.
