G-JIMG
-
Posts
277 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Calendar
Downloads
Everything posted by G-JIMG
-
-
I forgot to add, it's important to have the wood grain running the length of the cover. This helps it to flex if it needs to. Jim.
-
Posted by Simon Chaddock on 05/05/2020 18:47:33: G-JIMG Impressive problem solving. Eliminating a control surface gap is always an issue. Physically covering it in such a way that involves sliding over the surface does have risks. You just have to hope it will never cause a jamb. Simon, The covering, being so thin, is flexible so will move rather than jam. The trick is to make it wide enough so that it can flex, if it's short and stubby it could indeed cause a problem. Additionally, I gently run glass paper along the underside edge to feather it, so there's no sharp edge to catch on the control surface. I guess there is a risk of something getting into the gap and jamming the aileron but it's not happened so far and I always do a full movement check before I taxi. However, fate and sod's law being what it is, you know what's going to happen first flight! Jim.
-
Doing a military conversion of a King Air 350. See "Scratch Build Twin". Jim.
-
Progress has slowed, mainly due to SWMBO's list of jobs! However, the wings are nearing completion. Today I managed to add the wing dressing (LE 'fin' just inboard of the wing tip lights) and the aileron dressing (reinforced TE section near the centre). I had previously made an exhaust mould and have been making the 4 exhausts I'll eventually need to attach once the model is painted. I used my small airbrush to paint them and they've come out quite well. The finish looks more metallic than it appears in the picture. Jim.
-
-
I have an unopened kit, plus all the extras, wheels, guns, pilot, etc., and the fabric covering, all completely untouched. Anyone want to buy it all, only £1,500 !!
-
Not much to report I'm afraid. I've reached the stage with the wings where there's a lot of effort for little visible gain. The Port wing is now fully assembled and operational, although I won't glue in the control surface hinges until after it's all painted. It just needs a final sanding with 400 grit paper before being primered (I used to use 600 grit but found the paint did not key as well). Each wing has split flaps, which are at a slight angle to each other. To drive the outer flap I have araldited a carbon fibre tab in the end of the inboard flap. This fits, very snugly, into a corresponding slot in the outboard flap. When the inner flap is driven it forces the outer flap to follow and the tab, being free to move fore/aft in the outer flap, allows for the slight difference in angle. It's a configuration that has proven successful in the past, on the Corsair which has three flaps each side. When lowered the flaps also take the aerodynamic fairing that forms part of the nacelle fuel tanks with them. The starboard wing is about two days away from being in the same condition. Jim.
-
-
-
-
-
With any model there is always the question of what to do with the interface between the control surfaces and the wing/tail. The easiest option is just to leave it as is and have a small, but visible gap between the two. Another option is to concave the trailing edge so the shaped control surface 'slots in'. Unfortunately neither of these options will work on this model. Leaving a gap for the ailerons and flaps would not be very scale like and the TE, especially near the wing tip, is too narrow to concave without weakening it. So, we come to option three, covering the gap. To do this I use a little tool I made myself. It's simply a piece of right angled wood with a piece of glass paper glued to it. The glass paper is the width I want to remove from the model and the thickness of the paper is perfect for the depth I need. I simply press the tool against the trailing edge and run it backwards and forwards until it bottoms out. When it does, the model has the perfect step to accept the cover. I then glue in a strip of 1/64" wood. The aileron then installs exactly as before but the gap is now invisible. For the ailerons I will install a cover top and bottom but only a top cover for the flaps, installing a lower one would restrict their movement way too much. Jim. Edited By G-JIMG on 27/04/2020 11:04:46
-
-
-
-
-
Posted by Chris Bowes on 25/04/2020 17:56:06: Thanks again for the replies. I should maybe of mentioned in my original post that the project is an electric powered funfighter, a Kawasaki Hien from Cambria Models. Being a simple, low cost and fully sheeted build I thought it would be a good candidate to do my first fibreglass and paint job on. Not settled on a scheme for it yet, either scale or other. I am going to invest in some spray equipment as I have a few other projects which I will be moving on to afterwards and for which I will be covering in a similar way (and a long wish list of scale projects after that !) I have been looking at getting a compressor and airbrush, but am thinking that an airbrush is not going to cut it alone when you are spraying larger models and/or large single block colours. That, I would assume, would need a spray gun. What kind of setups are you running? Chris, You're correct, a small airbrush doesn't really cut it when you're painting a 6' wing span model. For large jobs I use a compressor with a reasonably large reservoir tank, it means you have an uninterrupted air supply. The downside is the noise. I usually set up a 'spray booth' in my garage by draping drop cloths from the beams. I then place the compressor outside to minimise the noise. I use a spray gun with a reasonable spray pattern (about 2" wide) and the ability to hold a reasonable amount of paint. Jim.
-
-
-
I've designed and built the battery cradle, and all appears fine. The cradle will form part of the underside of the wing (sorry the photo's are upside down). I'll install it when I join the two wing halves together. The base of the battery bays will form part of the wing surface, with the added advantage of strengthening the connection between the two wing halves. The forward portion of the cradle will blend into the lower fuselage and have wing hold down screws. The batteries (which will be hanging upside down) will be secured in place by straps. The entire installation will then be covered by the fibre glass pod. Jim.
-
-
-
Pete, Ancient tribal knowledge dictates the Battery to ESC wire should be as short as possible. However, like most tribal knowledge it eventually gets overtaken by advances in technology. Although it is perfectly true this used to be the case, the latest ESCs make it much less of an issue. Quality ESCs (not necessarily cheap Chinese knock-offs) have improved circuitry and the Triacs they now use are far less susceptible to spikes. If you haven't already purchased your Motor/ESC I suggest you email George at 4-Max. He will be able to advise you on max wire lengths, etc. Jim.
-
I think I have a solution for the battery problem. Really, I should have had this all planned before I started the build but in every other build I've only had to slot in a fuel tank, not ESC's and a relatively hefty battery. Anyway, I can make the battery cradle (Red) a permanent part of the wing (Blue) and secure both to the airframe via 4 screws (Green), two aft and two forward. The cover can then be located by small spigots and held by magnets (Orange). Jim.
