Lucas Hofman
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Everything posted by Lucas Hofman
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Second half of the stringers last night and started on the battery hatch: I started with gluing 6x3mm lists to the sides. Glued the half-frames F1A, F2A, F3 and F5A on top of those (rebated), together with the cockpit floor. Before F1A and after F5A a 0.6mm spacer (and tape) to create a little gap that should prevent glueing these half-frames to their counterparts . Next is glueing the turtledeck and then comes the moment of thruth: cutting through the 6x3 lists to separate hatch from fuse. Fingers crossed!
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Back again, a little earlier than expected. Continue with the battery plate (2mm light ply): And mounting a slightly higher F5, so that is fits between the sides. Tilted backwards, to make the hatch easier to fit: And fitting the lists of the turtle deck. 3x3mm balsa is too flimsy, so it has to be pine anyway. Thanks to Martin for the picture with the elastic bands: And this is the time I found out that I have used the wrong thickness for the fuselage sides . !!! It is 1/8 instead of 3/32. Not a big deal, but irritating since I want to have everything as light as possible. And now I am missing stock for the wing leading edges. A lesson to be learned here: when all wood arrives mark every bit for what it is intended for.
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Craig's first build Ballerina
Lucas Hofman replied to Craig Thomas's topic in The 2016 Ballerina Mass Build
Posted by Craig Thomas on 29/01/2016 08:24:10: I give in with the paper tubes. Tried for about half an hour to get those tubes to open up. Don't worry. If if you loose the piece of string it is not a big deal to (from the servo bay) stick a bit or wire with a tight U-bend towards the center. with this you pickup your piece of string again (or a servo extension lead). -
Chris's Bella Ballerina HD
Lucas Hofman replied to McG 6969's topic in The 2016 Ballerina Mass Build
Posted by McG 6969 on 28/01/2016 10:44:04: I have a question, please. I'm not able to find the specifications for the servos bearers. Maybe I missed something but nor the plan nor the article seem to provide some details. Following the plan their measurements are 12 x 6mm, but what kind of material are they? Should I use ply, spruce, birch, basswood, sapele, meranti, or... ??? 6x6 hardwood or 12x6 hard balsa works fine too. or a plate from 2-3mm light ply. If you hit the tail surfaces so hard that something breaks it better be the servo bærers. Much easier to fix than stripped servo gears. Edited By Lucas Hofman on 29/01/2016 15:12:51 Edited By Lucas Hofman on 29/01/2016 15:14:11 -
Chris's Bella Ballerina HD
Lucas Hofman replied to McG 6969's topic in The 2016 Ballerina Mass Build
See the above. The only thing I would add it to scrape off epoxy that oozes out of the joint after pressing together. That is just dead weight. And a gram here and a gram there ..... -
Tail surfaces nearly ready for covering (elevator joiner still needs to be glued in place). Nice and smooth after rounding off and sanding: To be able to have the battery behind the firewall and still have the CG right I need to save 20 grams in the tail. The tail surfaces weight 39 grams (without joiner, covering and horns). Anyone who has weighted normal solid plate surfaces? All formers are glued in place. Next will be battery mounting plate, the hatch and the turtledeck. I did receive som 1/8 square balsa for the turtledeck but find that very flimsy. Two weeks silence from today: business trip to the US. Looking forward to start on the wing after returning.
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a tip to prevent hangar rash on your new build parts: The white stuff is 3 mm foam that is used under parquet. I have half a roll left after the last room was finished which will last for a long time. Can be found in DIY stores (that sell parquet).
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No Martin, these differences are much more that printing errors or stretch of the paper would be. The drawing as published by RCME is internally consistent (with the possible exception of F7), that is the width of the formers fits with the top view of the plan. However the fuse as drawn is much fatter (i.e. wider longer aft) that my fuselage when I glue that sides together at the fin post with only F1-F6 in place. That may differ dependent on the stiffness of the balsa used for the sides. Peter's prototype, and his drawing, also has a more slender fuselage after F6. I just wanted to know if there was any point in forcing the sides outwards to fit the formers. Apparently not so I will trim them down until they become a natural fit.
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Thanks Peter, I will trim down the formers until they fit nicely. By the way, I am encountering words on this forum I have to look up. Did you know pillock is believed to be of Norwegian origin?
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Last night I glued the back of the fuselage together. When dry I trial fittet F7-F10 and found that they are much wider than the natural flow of the sides when the sides are closed at the rudder post: It is probably possible to force the sides to fit the formers as drawn on the RCME plan out but is there any point in doing so? I am inclined to take of 2-4 mm of each former. Better or not? Edited By Lucas Hofman on 27/01/2016 08:07:33
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Just to show there is more than one way to skin a cat: To fit tyvek hinges to surfaces I mark the middle of the spar with the nifty little tool (I do not remember where I ordered it) that makes an impression in the wood. A fresh #1 blade and some patience does the rest. I use one hinge marked half way to check that the cut it wide and deep enough. And indeed, do not bevel until the hinge slots are done.
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Looked at the plan last night and noticed the grain on the bottom of the fuselage drawn accross. Can somebody explain why the grain in this direction is better then lengthwise? I would expect that - like the sides- grain lengthwise would give a stronger fuse with regard to bending in the vertical plane. Obviously I miss something here, or is this a drawing mistake too?
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An hour last night. I like this way of constructing parts:
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Posted by Percy Verance on 24/01/2016 21:53:10: You're learning fast Lucas. Always check twice, glue once! I sometimes feel I will never learn... - this is not the first build (and probably not the last silly mistake either) However, the nice thing of building in wood is that nearly any mistake can be corrected in not too much time - it often is more damaging to the ego than to the build.
