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Lucas Hofman

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Posts posted by Lucas Hofman

  1. The hole is not the problem. It is that the canopy cannot rotate around the front bottom corner without the top of F3A going forward, which it cannot due to F3. But if the canopy slides backwards at the same time as it rotates it should not be a problem. And given that it in practice has shown not to be a problem I should stop pondering and start ordering wood....

  2. I now find an "edit" option under the 3 dots menu:

    image.png.98cfdd0eb24ae9739cad3a255c47041c.png

     

    However, on an older post of me on the Rans S-9 thread the edit option is gone:

    image.png.1ec9bebf367842c1466382796936680e.png

     

    Can anybody explain this? Is there a way to edit older (like yesterdays) posts that one has made?

     

    Regards, Lucas

  3. 5 minutes ago, Peter Miller said:

    The former is only 1/8" thick, It allows the wing to rotate enough to pull out.

     

    Lets put it this way. My wing comes off with no trouble. Mick King's wing comes off with no problems.  I cannot see why your would not.

     

    It is exactly the same system as all my similar models

     

     

    I now see my thinking error: The wing will begin to slide back as soon as one begins to lift the trailing edge. Thereby creating room in the front for F3A to rotate without being stopped by F3. 

  4. Started studying the enlarged plan to make a shopping list. I found something I do not understand related to the removal of the wing:

     

    image.png.c8a5de02f3bc9adc5979462880346b7d.png

     

    The ruler resembles the wing being rotated (the dowel is still in the hole) until it can slide far enough back to release the dowel. However, when the wing rotates

    the top of F3A (indicated by the pencil) come forward and clashes with F3. It looks like the wing cannot be removed this way.

    Since others have build the S-9 it obviously can, so I am missing something. But what?

    Regards, Lucas

     

  5. 18 minutes ago, Peter Miller said:

    You email for some reason address comes up as not valid. 

    I can send you my own plans AND the rcm&e ones

    Thanks again Peter! I will start with making a material list and order what I do not have. The intention is to start in the autumn, but maybe I cannot wait that long. 

     

    Any tips for changing sizes and/or materials for a 110%-115% version?

     

    Regards, Lucas

  6. 1 hour ago, GrumpyGnome said:

    Lucas, no need to publish your email address... forumites can mail you direct through the forum

    I found that out now. I am still new to the new forum program. I still have to find out what the best methods is to include pictures (in the old program one needed to upload the pictures to an album first, it seem one can cut and paste now.

  7. On of the reasons for the Rans S-9 is that I moved to a club that flies at an airport that is also used by full-size planes. One of these was a Rans S-9, although it was modified enough the authorities designated S-9B. 

    LN-SNI-001-1024.thumb.jpg.1c5a1fa649bb09f39726e21f58cfa323.jpg

     

    I always scan the drawing to PDF. Since we have an A0 plotter at work I can then print a few copies that can be cut up to serve as templates. If anyone has scanned the RCM&E drawing I would appreciate a copy (on lucas.bm.hofman @ gmail.com).

     

    Regards,

    Lucas

  8. On 04/03/2022 at 12:08, Peter Miller said:

    Mick has a Turnigy G45, 60 Watt ESC, 14X7 Prop,  4 cell battery.  He originally used a 4248 500 motor but that was not powerful enough. 

     

    I see that Google shows a Turnigy G46 but not a 45 so maybe they have changed it or Mick got mixed up.

     

    I would suggest raking the U/C a bit further forward as Mick's model always noses over on the landing run...Mine never does!!

    Thanks Peter. The Gxx series are replacements for glow engines. Lite EFlite has. So it must be a G46.

  9. On 04/03/2022 at 06:16, EarlyBird said:

    I for one will be interested in a detailed build of this model, like your Ballerina which was what attracted me to this forum and my subsequent Ballerina build and the rest. Thanks Lucas.

     

    Taking this up to 60" will mean the next size motor which will be a 3547 800 kv like this model

     

    4-Max Brushless Motor setup for Peter Miller Little Miss Honky Tonk, RCM&E February 2018

     

    Steve

    Wow, this is more praise than expected (or deserved). When building starts, most likely October when the days become short and cold, I will for sure make a detailed blog. It makes building much more social. 

    Cheers, Lucas

  10. 350 to 400 gr. of thrust is very little. Mine gives 580 (nose down on a scale). That would eplain any dificulty in getting away.

    I do not have much difference with/without battery hatch. If you have the problem might be the air intake. Open up more and make sure all sides are camfered as shown on the plan.

    My old LiPo's did not deliver enough, so I had to change. But not to more that 40C.

    Try to find why (in the workshop) why you are not getting more thrust and fix it there. That should make a difference.

    Regards, Lucas

    ps. Impressive to get so good pictures from only one flight!

     

    Edited By Lucas Hofman on 15/06/2020 12:59:55

  11. The repair is well underway. I double the damaged former(with holds the battery sidewise). And put a 2mm balsa plate under the area with the small fragments.

    img_6957.jpg

    Some extra wood to align and top deck:

    img_6958.jpg

    and glueing everything back together:

    img_6960 (1).jpg

    All holes were sparkled with light weight car body filler and sanded afterwards. I noticed front and back fuselage have little contact after one cuts the battery hatch. I reinforced the gluejoint in the lower triagle stringers with 1mm ply plates in the air intakes and a piece of 25gr grass over the bottom of the fuse to the air intakes.

    img_6963.jpg

    Litt paintwork in the cockpit, glue the canopy back on and ready for covering again.

    Edited By Lucas Hofman on 25/05/2020 07:45:14

  12. To John: I think it is too early to conclude that more elevator movement is needed. I have increased it by 15% but maybe more important reduced exponential from 30 to 10%. What do other fly with?

    Main learning point for me is that a site with a straight in-out flying path is needed so that an aborted landing can be done by just opening the throttle keeping wings level and pull up after sufficient speed has been reached.

    Also trim in 1-2 mm up elevator straight away. At launch you may need a bit of up elevator to prevent a dive before flying speed has been reached.

  13. The maiden was eventful, to say the least. I had chosen a site where the launcher could stand about 4 m. over the terrain. At launch she sank a bit and then was away like a scalded cat. Very quickly very small.

    I had to trim the elevator up a lot before she would fly straight and level. Elevator authority was lacking with the specified 6 mm up and down and 30% expo. Aileron was ok.

    What I had not though well through about this site was the lack of a straight line in and out for landing and abort. When coming I saw the gnat going too far and when aborting I pulled a turn with too low speed. The inner wing dropped and touched the grass, with a cartwheel leaving the fuselage cracked before the wing.

    Damage after removal of the covering is a separated fuselage:

    img_6955.jpg

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