Jim Kemble

You are right kc. If the 3/8 strip goes from root to tip and the mainspar is flat on the building board then you will have an angle of 4.5 degrees at the root and 71/8 at the tip, giving you an effective washout of approx. 21/2 dgrees. I don't know what the model is but that washout angle is, shall we say, fairly normal. I have to assume that the wing section could be semisymetrical to lift the tip 3/8" at the root. Good Luck, Jim

Since 1990 I've built 5 Spitfires to the Rob Millinship plan published in the April 1986 RCM&E, RC/1513. The plan shows a foam wing, but since I didn't fancy sanding away foam I designed a built-up wing using the same envelope. The foam wing has a section depth of 1 1/2". The actual section at that scale (nom.1/7th) is 1 1/4 " The rest of the model is quite simple to build if you are cautious about complexity. The first 2 with this wing section flew very well but from there on I redesigned the wing using a scale section, and the next 3 flew even better but faster. Incidentally the washout on the full size Spit is 2 degrees 20 minutes, and I settled for 2 1/2 degrees . The foam as supplied incorporates this washout. Mitchell knew what he was doing down in Southampton. I haven't experienced any tip stall with either wing. All these models were driven by the same K&B 61. The first weighed 9 lbs 4 ozs, rather too heavy with store bought balsa, and starting with number 4 I used 4 to 6 lb balsa where appropriate and reduced the weight to 7 lbs 3 ozs. It was a delight to fly until the engine quit above tall tall trees. Later discovered to be a tiny little seed hovering around the fuel needle. The only photos I have on this site show number 4. If you intend using the Saito it should be just right. Even a 50 2 stroke. One point about weight. Changing the tailwheel from 1 1/2 ozs to 1/2 oz saves 5 ozs up front ! Although I have number 6 framed up I think that one to a larger size, say 1/6 th or more is the way to go with this aircraft. I have a plan partly drawn and perhaps next year. Briefly, Spits are not too difficult to take-off, watching engine revs and elevator position carefully. Landing requires some practice and strong undercarts help, but when airbourne there is nothing as beautiful. If you keep the nose down they glide as well as any other brick, Height helps. Good luck     Edited By Jim Kemble on 20/05/2014 20:08:42

Hi again, I'm wondering if you have the same Koverall as is sold here in the States. I'm not wise enough to post photos but I can assure you that the Sharkface wing that I covered last week has no pin holes. I finished it with 2 coats of Rust-0leum yellow; one coat doesn't cover too well. I should emphasize that the nitrate dope is straight from the can, brushed on. As for cutting it an old fashioned razor blade and a straight edge work fine. Thinking about the 1/4 size Cub, that had perhaps 3 or 4 coats of nitrate. As for fraying Danny, I may be subconsciously remembering the fraying that occurs with nylon and it's reluctance to go round leading and trailing edges. Of course Stevo the WW! aircraft were covered in linen, which in it's unbleached state is not really white, but with a clear-doped finish on a white fabric you'll get that indefinable colour. Anyway, Best of British Luck from an ex-pat. Jim

Hi Stevo, Well, Koverall is white. Much easier to use than nylon was. I use it on models from Mini-Tyros to 1/4 scale Super Cubs, and on the control surfaces of WWII fighters,where appropriate. My method is to nirate dope the structure twice, lightly sanding after each coat. Glue the Koverall in place either through the fabric or directly on the structure with nitrate again. Usually it's best to tack it in position and work around the area. If travelling along a wing, doping then laying down the fabric , smoothing it in place as you go seems to work. It can always be adjusted by the application of more dope, or thinner to soften thr nitrate. When finished and the fabric has been shrunk, I find that 2 coats of nitrate undiluted plus a finshing coat of almost any type leaves just about the right amount of weave texture. It is tough stuff and can be shrunk a little even after doping.(BE CAREFUL WITH THE HEAT GUN). And it's not expensive. Jim

Sorry CYMAZ, With a nom de plume like that you could be in Kazakhstan!! But of course the AMA only caters for the USA with their insurance programme and the minus sign, or W, is a moot point, (unless one flies for a commercial airline).

Thanks guys, although living in the States the manufacturers names are different. But I've gleaned enough from your replies to settle for the water-based polyurethane as, on reflection, it doesn't have to endure 24/7 exposure to the elements on a model (except when lost). The comment by Stevo about yellowing with age using oil-based is enough to avoid that possibility. But I haven't seen that on furniture. Thanks again

Cymax, I discovered your field. Something has happened with Google Earth, or perhaps my old computer, and I can't use it the way I did. Anyway, don't get clay in the way, even if it's not Chinese. Nice to exchange field info. Jim

Cymax, It seems that a minus has been lost from the Longitude figure. Jim

Cymas, You have me worried. The AMA has insured the field on those coordinates!!! If you look for Mace Hill Road, North Haverhill, NH, USA you can make out the strip just North of the road and East of the farm, next to the trees. I'll be looking into this. Thank you. Jim

My finish method for warbirds, particularly Spitfires (see my photos) is nitrate dope, usually 2 coats to fill bare wood a little, then medium weight modelspan with nitrate again, followed by 1 or 2 sprayed coats of auto grey primer, all sanded between coats. From there I use Humbrol colours from those small cans, again sprayed. They are authentic with superb covering power. Wish they were in bigger cans as they used to be at one time. All insignia etc is painted on. As a final top coat I've been using a clear satin epoxy. Not very pIeasant to use and somewhat wasteful, like mixing an epoxy adhesive tends to be, and a hell of a clean-up of spray guns. I've seen some mention of polyurethane as a fuel-proof finish and am curious to know of anyone's experience with this. I now use a water-based polyurethane on furniture finishing, brushed on, but that is specifically for interior use. I have used oil-based on furniture but to avoid smell and physical problems I abandoned it. I'm wondering if the solvent would attack the Humbrol finish; the epoxy sprayed is OK.

Mainly LH circuits. Our strip has a row of trees down one side and as the wind is usually from the West (at right angles to the strip), there is not much choice. Especially as the pilot spots are at the right hand end when facing the trees. But the trees still win a few. Otherwise , left or right doesn't make any difference to me personally. A visitor to our strip once remarked, "If you can fly here, you can fly anywhere!". LAT44.1053, LONG 72.0278.

Bob's Aircraft Documentation, 3114 Yukon Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626, USA. (714)979-8058. www.bobsairdoc.com, should have what you are looking for. I have an old list of his and it shows more than 45 3-views of WACO aircraft. He has photographs as well but the complete catalogue that details them, is not to hand. I've buried it somewhere. The SRE is listed twice. I haven't checked him on the web lately but, his add was in the Jan.2013 Model Aviation(usa). Good Luck Erfolg. Jim Edited By Jim Kemble on 23/04/2013 19:58:41

Mike Etheridge, Broughton Gifford I remember but, it's at least 46 years since I was last there. I was evacuated in 1940 to Wiltshire, first to Milton Lilbourne and progressed to West Kinsington Central School which had located to Melksham for the duration of the war. When I left school I worked in the Avon Rubber Company, now Cooper I think, and was in their canteen when the D-Day landings were announced on the good ole BBC. (interupted Music While You Work!-Really!) Many happy memories but, too young then to know much about pubs. ( I know a lot about pubs now). I live in Vermont now which reminds me a bit of Wiltshire 'cause we have a lot of cows dropping stuff that smells a bit like the droppings I smelt around Melksham. If you're ever in Vermont come fly with us. Upper Valley Prop Busters. Club #2630. LAT 44.1053 LONG 72.0278. We can lend you a plane.

Apropos my last posting. I've found out that Tubby II was in the January 1944 Aermodeller. That explains the misty morning when I first flew it, in a field behind the church in Melksham. At the same time P.E.Norman was in the next field flying a gas job which ended up in a tree. I believe he was stationed at RAF Melksham, which was a physical training centre. Why he was flying so close to the town is odd, unless he was living close by. Or perhaps he launched it at the camp. He was the pioneer of ducted fans post war, continued by his son. I'm awaiting the delivery of a copy of that Aeromodeller with some excitement, ex UK.

Old John B. Seems we had the best of it. My first effort was a plane drawn on paper, cut out and glued with flour and water paste. My mother told me some time afterwards that I was 5 at the time. That was 80 years ago. The "model" quickly took on the nature of a brick shortly after being launched (thrown), but I still remember that brief thrill before it hit the deck. From there, much as John B experienced, a Megow Fairchild 24, a lightweight brick, window gazing at oiled silk covered ARFs, although framed with thin wire outlines, imported from Japan. Yes, Frog made some great ARFs. Do you remember that Hawker Demon or whatever one it was of that family? On Sunday mornings modellers would gather on Blythe Hill in South London and I would be there as a 10 year old, drooling. The first really scratch built I made was from a Tubby II plan from the pages of the Aeromodeller in 1942 or '43. I cycled from Melksham to Bath and managed to gadge a sheet of 1/16" balsa from the model shop there to make it. I had to show that was the model I wanted to build and he checked with the relevant issue in the back room. I couldn't get home quick enough. Later I worked in the Aeromodeller Group under D A Russell making solid exibition models for the then current aircraft manufacturers with the DAGRA company. ( D A Russell-GRAce Russell) When they went to Eaton Bray I joined the RAF, then Airlines, then marriage, but modelling all the time, even for The Danbury Mint here in the USA. For me it was a passion started in those air-minded '30s and has lasted all my life. Can't complain. Never wanted to be a full-size plane pilot; one of my sons has taken that on. And I get to fly with him now and then.Great Taxi! I much prefer to watch my models fly. So, John B, take that Old away. As someone mentioned above, our covering has just wrinkled a bit. Underneath we are much younger than we look. Some joints need regluing that's all.