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Gordon Whitehead 1

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Everything posted by Gordon Whitehead 1

  1. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Has anyone tried changing the shape of a Sullivan flex tank with a heat gun, eg making it a bit shorter to fit a limited space? If so, have you any advice you can give to ensure a successful result? Gordon
  2. Gordon Whitehead 1
    This Spit, due in August, might fill the bill for your 180 Timothy: http://www.kingslynnmodelshop.co.uk/p9767/Black_Horse_Spitfire_IX_ARTF_33cc_-_Due_Aug_18/product_info.html
  3. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Hi Timo I'm so pleased that I've found your thread, which I didn't see last year. Your construction shots are most instructive and inspirational, whilst the flying shots present the model superbly and the video definitely puts the icing on the cake. I can't believe that there are so few comments from other modellers. I note that you built the ailerons and flaps integral with the wing structure before separating them for hinging, the slotted flap hinging being most impressive. Your illustrated build has provided me with much food for thought regarding my own next scratch-built project which like yours will be a model of a side-by-side twin seater, will be about the same size with a huge cockpit canopy, and will benefit from being built as lightly as possible. A very big thanks for sharing your skills with us all. Kind regards Gordon
  4. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Update on my 155-powered 11lb 65in Krier Great Lakes. Had about 10 flights to date. Started with 3 flights on a 16x8 APC, then one flight each on two 17x7 Turnigy wood props, the scimitar-shaped one giving the better performance with a quite high vertical. Fuel was standard Propower 10. Then I fitted a 17x8 APC and diluted the fuel half-and-half with methanol to end up with a 9% oil and 5% nitro mix, as suggested by Jon in the Laser Tech Questions thread. What happened next ....... Unlimited vertical, which was as surprising as it was pleasing. Then while trimming out the rudder-aileron interaction in knife-edge I selected the snap roll flight mode to see if the model still tracked true. Full top rudder had the model arcing up and over in a knife-edge loop, which was another surprising result. Less oil residue too, which was a major aim of the fuel switch. As it recovered to level knife-edge with very little loss in height I really did think that I couldn't believe what I'd just seen. Right now I should probably fit a dummy radial to act as a baffle and force cooling air though the fins, to compensate for the lower oil discharge carrying away less heat. Gordon
  5. Gordon Whitehead 1

    Gordon Whitehead 1 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  6. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Hi Linda There's a huge difference between the 380kv of the Propdrive motor and the 450kv of the Rimfire. On the same GP recommended 17x8 prop, to get the same shaft rpm (and hence the same pitch speed you'll need for the equivalent aerobatic performance) from the 560-380 as the Rimfire 120, you can't avoid increasing cell count beyond 6S. Otherwise, if staying with 6S, increasing prop pitch and diameter is the only option. Whilst kv figures can be unreliable, they're the only spec we have to go on, and should be close enough for decent estimations to be made. Assuming that the 380 and 450 are approximately true, then the 380 has only 84% of the pitch speed on 6S and the same prop. So you'll need to increase the pitch from GP's recommended 8in to 9.5 theoretical, and 10in in practice. So your 18x10 looks like being a good choice at present. If you're worried about excessive current draw, simply trim the prop tips in 1/8in steps (ie reducing overall prop dia by 1/4in each snip) until you achieve the current you want, remembering to re-balance after each trim. Whilst current draw will drop, the rpm and hence pitch speed won't change all that much. I know it's a bit late, but the nearest equivalent motor to the Rimfire I found in the HK range which should handle the power you want is the Turnigy Aerodrive SK3-5055-430kv and even that is somewhat low on kv, but still a lot closer than the Propdrive's 380. Hope this helps, and good luck with your maiden. Gordon
  7. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Yup! Laser LP25 rolls off the tongue easily. As Lasers are uniquely British, there's nowt wrong with using "P for petrol" in the name. Thanks for the video Jon. The 155 sounds very healthy and I've ring-fenced the dosh ready for my first Laser 25cc petrol when you achieve production. Glad to note that glow production is restarting BTW.
  8. Gordon Whitehead 1
    We had a flier through the letterbox today from our local lawnmower agent to say they've started stocking both alkylate juices Have you any video of the 155GA to show us Jon?
  9. Gordon Whitehead 1
    It sounds as if a Laser 155 gas (155FG?) would be a winner Jon. Despite the fall-off in ARTF availability, there are still a lot of 20-30cc kits around that it would suit. I'm obviously biased, but having just sold all my bigger engines and the Jungie to downsize a bit to easier managed models, that capacity makes more sense to me than the 180 gas. And if club members would go for purring FS instead of howling DLE (I can dream), that would be a universal benefit. Tygon is a bit stiff for use as a clunk line in small tanks. I seem to think that you don't like felt filter clunks, but one of those would stop air entering the system. Gordon
  10. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 19/04/2018 20:48:16: I have been able to fit my 155 petrol prototype into my pulse 125 and intend to get it in the air soon. Testing it on the ground it was peaking at 8800 on a 16x8 using aspen fuel. I was surprised by that but I will take it That sounds like a pretty good figure Jon. Are the idle and throttling as impressive? Have you maidened the Pulse yet? Inquiring minds need to know :} Gordon
  11. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Posted by Chris Walby on 14/04/2018 21:26:36: Seagull Dual Ace with twin Laser 70's, Major result for me, comes in just under weight and no added lead ballast (RX batteries are behind the canopy). Taxi tests complete, minor work on throttle linkage and then it will be maiden time! Heck! I've just googled the kit and if yours has come in at under the stated 11lb auw you'll surely have a rocket ship there, Chris, it's so sleek. The spec quotes a pair of .46's! Gordon
  12. Gordon Whitehead 1
    I'll definitely attend the Ashbourne event Geoff. I read your u/c thread, and immediately surfed Ebay for springs suitable for u/c's; there seemed to be an abundance, so thanks for that tip! Gordon
  13. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Thanks for the kind comments guys. There's no doubt that a dummy radial as on the Stearman and Jungmeister with a slot to direct air through the 155's cylinder fins would greatly improve the looks, as well as providing the ideal cooling for the engine. In practice I've not had a problem with overheating in radial cowl installations like this so didn't worry much about it. There's a fair sized annular gap between the rear edge of the cowl and the fuz proper, which appears to be extracting hot air satisfactorily for now. One thing I did was incorporate a dummy air scoop to direct cool air to the carb Made from litho plate the lower wall extends inside the rear cowling and up between the carb and silencer to help to isolate the carb intake from the hot air whizzing round the silencer. The scoop did end up smaller than I expected, especially when the carb needle ended up passing through the middle of it, but it might make a difference. An excellent idea I pinched from the Great Planes bipe kits was the carry handle which fastens onto the centre-section struts and incorporates storage for the interplane struts and the inter-aileron link wires. That's a lovely photo of your Jungmeister, Steve. Propwise I have a couple of 17x7's and a 17x8 waiting for trial next time out. The 17x7's are Turnigy wood. Dirt cheap, quite a thin aerofoil section, well finished and balanced, I don't know whether to expect great things at the price but worth a punt. One has a conventional blade shape, the other is scimitar-shaped so that's even more of an experiment. The 17x8 is an APC. Regrettably it rained this morning Tom so spoilt the festival somewhat until the sun came out around midday. We went yesterday afternoon in blazing sunshine and had a proper ice cream from the card shop on the corner of Welles Street - I've never liked that Mr Whippy gloop sold at fairs etc. Cheers Gordon
  14. Gordon Whitehead 1

    Gordon Whitehead 1 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  15. Gordon Whitehead 1
    At last! Our field had become dry enough to drive on, and the grass runway firm enough to fly from, even though the grass was still 3in long. It's been quite a wait from last November when I finished the 65in span 11lb Krier Great Lakes until today when I finally maidened her. I'd checked the Laser 155 out on the bench on its APC 16x8 but it had never run in the model until today. So final throttle setting up was done this morning at the field. No problem! Once I'd adjusted the throttle servo travel to provide a nice idle, and set up a 2-position switch to fully close the throttle and stop the engine if required, there was nothing else to do but fly her, egged on with enthusiastic help, support and encouragement from clubmate Martyn K of these forums, the only other flier there despite the ideal flying conditions. So off she went, the 155 running well and sounding utterly gorgeous. I'd set the control surface throws on the scaled-up bipe to the same angular movements as my original Enya .46FS - powered 47in span version which I'd designed built and published in RC Modeler and RCMW in 1989; it's a good job that I had noted these movements on the plan for future builders. Well the first flight took me back 30 years. A bit of up trim and, a bit of right on the first circuit, and the plane felt so comfortable and dialled in that with the engine running so well it would have been remiss of me not to try a few aeros. Three 10-minute flights packed with loops, slow rolls, vertical rolls, stall turns, 8-point hesitation rolls, vertical 8, octagonal loop, flick rolls, spins, avalanches and on it went. The new 155 inspired complete confidence as it purred through that lot with all the appropriate throttle variations between idle and full chat without a hiccup. Looking back and thinking about it, I hadn't even flown any model since last November, so the 'Lakes played its part very well, too; it's a natural for performing airshow style aerobatics. Amazing. Thanks Jon. Your 155 is an absolutely superb engine. Gordon
  16. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Hi Steve, thanks for your comments. The pic on the wrist-mounted one looks as if it has been cut out of a picture postcard. It might work acceptably if you were to use a lamp as the alignment check object but otherwise not very versatile as you need to do the check at the field really. You've got your camera well-positioned in all the shots so you're well set up. Those youtube vids you see shot with a hat cam where the plane keeps disappearing above or below the screen are not worth watching to the end and I wonder why the guys even bother to post them. Kind regards Gordon
  17. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Regarding matching rpm on twins, years ago when I flew a couple of small OS .15-size twins a lot, I'd tune both engines for max rpm, chuck the plane up, and the airflow through the props then made them run at just about the same revs at full chat. Revs would be in the 12k range. Dunno if 4-strokes would be so accommodating though. Gordon
  18. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Thanks Steve. I found your cctv tester on Amazon, but just a bit pricey for this occasional job. There is this item which might be worth blowing the 26 quid on if it worked. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CQNSGPO/ref=asc_df_B01CQNSGPO51726080/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22146&creativeASIN=B01CQNSGPO&linkCode=df0&hvadid=256110712503&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12743213703415599841&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007047&hvtargid=pla-420324196973 It is supposed to be a CCTV tester. Acknowledging that you only get what you pay for, if it actually worked as a CCTV tester, Is it likely it would decode the analog signal and produce the pic of where one is looking like yours does? Kind regards Gordon
  19. Gordon Whitehead 1
    An excellent idea Steve. I've never heard of a spot monitor before so googled it. Is yours some sort of wrist-mounted monitor screen? Which one is yours, how's it linked to the camera, and where can we get one like it? Is it possible to link the camera output to a mobile phone and save having to buy a spot monitor? I'm looking forward to your outdoor footage. Kind regards Gordon
  20. Gordon Whitehead 1
    I forgot to include my World Engines Digit Midget micro propo bought specifically for Club 20 racing. At the simultaneous hand launch of my first ever race, the launcher next to me managed to throw his plane at mine, removing half of the fuz top deck and the fin. Luckily the (expensive) radio gear survived untouched. Gordon
  21. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Aeromodeller single channel valve Tx. Ground based, tank whip 8ft aerial, microswitch button switch on flylead Terrytone (I think that was the kit, I built it in a plastic sandwich box as I couldn't source an Oxo tin ) transistor Tx with push button. Radio Modeller single channel transistor Tx - home made case bent up from scrapyard bought aluminium sheet. Open Tx?? Pah!!!!!! Who needs that when you can loop and roll your Mini Robot with just one-button controlling an Elmic Conquest escapement?  RCME Unijunction Pulse Proportional Tx for Galloping Ghost. Futaba Digimax 4 RCME Propo Tx Futaba 5-chan M-series Fleet 6-chan JR Unlimited 8 Multifunction Tx for 7 years or so JR PCM-10 for 10 years or so JR PCM-10X for another 10 years Spektrum DX-8 for about a year Spektrum DX-18 first generation since it came out Gordon       Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 07/04/2018 11:07:53 Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 07/04/2018 11:08:21
  22. Gordon Whitehead 1
    It'll be the ejection seat button. Hence the encircling ring of exclamation marks. Gordon
  23. Gordon Whitehead 1
    I love the photos guys, and although I couldn't ident any model as chainsaw powered, I thought you all might like to read this reader's letter from the Cumberland and Westmorland Herald, which I've copied from a local Cumbrian model club's emergency newsletter issued for info to that club's members (of which I'm one even though I live many miles away). I'm not passing judgement or making suggestions, but I sure hope that no harm comes to your future flying activites at this beautiful venue. Gordon
  24. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Posted by Nightflyer on 29/06/2017 13:10:40: Mind you one model I always wanted from Micro Mold was the Spitfire Mk24/Seafire Mk47. I never got hold of one though one of the guys got hold of a kit from a show second hand in the late 90's and it looked and flew beautifully. I had one of those, with an HB25 I think. Mine weighed about 4lb so took a good old chuck to get it airborne. It flew as if on rails and it would slope soar too. I learned how to do slow rolls with mine. I see that the plan is available on Outerzone, and it might be a good basis for a leccy depron build, making the canopy from a heat-shrunk pop bottle. I had a Veron Tomtit with lithoplated cowls and bolt-on wings which flew as nicely as it looked. I remember reading in Pete Russell's RCME column at the time that the real one was the first plane to do a "Rocket Loop", which was described as a sort of figure 9 shaped loop where the plane exited the loop a lot higher than it entered it. One of my best fun planes was a Veron Mini Robot for single channel with a Merlin up front. I liked it so much that when a clubmate landed his own Mini Robot clean through the middle of mine sitting on the ground and totalled it, I built a 30in span version for a Dart that did all the available single channel aerobatics with ease.
  25. Gordon Whitehead 1
    Hi Adrian I'm looking forward to seeing you all at the field too, sans wellies! Ref Rx channel labels, if I remember correctly, my first propo radio, a Futaba Digimax 4, simply had an unlabelled block connector that you plugged the four 5-wire servos into. So until you got used to the channel order on the block, a bit of trial and error was needed to connect the servos to their correct Rx outputs. I also have a feeling that when eventually 3-wire servos came along plugged directly into Rx sockets, the sockets were again unlabelled, or maybe had just numbers. You soon got used to the channel order being throttle, aileron, elevator, rudder on 4-channel sets, and when 5th and 6th channels eventually arrived, they were gear (2-pos switch) and flap (slider on side of Tx case) in that order. All pre-computer so no reassignment possible, or even needed I suppose. Back in those really early days of propo, if you wanted dual rates on aileron and elevator, you fitted a couple of mini toggle switches onto the Tx and wired in the appropriate bunch of resistors and pots using the circuit published in RCME. No servo reversing, though, and there probably wasn't room on the Tx case for a rudder dual rate switch! Happy days! Gordon
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