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AJ

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Everything posted by AJ

  1. Totaly agree. <start rant> It is a right pain in the posterior,especially having paid for the plan, it just seems daft that we then have to trapse off and find somewhere to copy and pay some more. Would rather just pay a bit more in the first place and receive the complete product. As delivered there must be an arguement that it is not actually 'fit for purpose'.<end rant> Understandable perhaps for the free plan. Back to the topic, I took my df out again today, light northerly and she flys like she is on rails. Starting to get the feel for her now. It really is a great plane both to build and to fly. Andrew
  2. Thanks Dean, I may begone a while, I have some shopping to do Andrew
  3. I took mine down to my local print shop and got them to do a mirror image photocopy. Can't remember the exact cost, around 2 pounds. If you can't find someone local who can do the whole sheet then you should be able to fit the wing onto a couple of sheets of a3 which most stationers should be able to do, then just sellotape them together. Do check the dimensions though incase the copier has not scaled exactly. Andrew
  4. Is the taranis realistically an option? I agree it's a great tx but I have been trying for months now to get one but they don't seem to actually exist in the uk. I am on the waiting list to get one but have been told there will be none available until next Feb. What good is a tx if you can't actualy buy one? Andrew
  5. Phil, as the wing is a single piece then there is plenty of reinforcing already if you sheet the centre section straight across the centre join after you have joined the two halves. As you noted the dihederal is very slight so does not cause any issue and if done like this top and bottom then the centre section is extremely strong already without any additional reinforcing. Also don't forget you then have the built up centre to add on top of the wing which adds even more strength. Andrew
  6. Hi John, Once the wings are complete you will need to cut through the first two ribs to allow the joiner to drop into place flush against the two spars. It wil be a bit fragile at the point so handle with care. When happy with the fit glue the joiner in place with some strong epoxy. On mine I set the dihederal by aligning the top spar with the top of the joiner. Seems to be about right as she flys nicely. Being 4 chanels you don't need very much dihederal. Andrew.
  7. Thanks for this. Between the GoG and the leading edge sounds as though it's about right. Thanks Martin for the detailed breakdown, all makes a lot of sense. Hoping to have it ready for the weekend so if all goes well and the weather is kind I will report back once it's flying. Andrew
  8. Haven't managed to get any flying pictures yet but here is one taken just before the first flight. I took her out again this morning but with winds gusting up past 15 mph it was too much for her. Managed to get her back down in one piece but it was exciting. Make a note, this one is only for those calmer days!
  9. AJ

  10. Hi, I am putting together a simple glider as a basic step up from playing with chuck gliders for my youngest son. I am planning to tow this one up on the end of a line pulled along the field by his older brother. My question is where do I locate the tow hook in relation to the CofG ? Should it be ahead, inline or aft? I am planning to just use a simple wire hook with a key ring and ribbon on the end of the line. The model is my own design so no plans to guide me here. Any ideas/suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Andrew
  11. Took mine out for her maiden today. Ground handling was a bit twitchy but once airborne she flys superb. No trims needed, keep the throttle fairly low for some really nice looking low passes. Landing was nice and straight, she floated in with just a little throttle to keep her on the line. Once on the deck I needed to keep in some up to avoid a nose over on our lumpy strip. Hoping the weather holds out for another go at the w/e. Andrew.
  12. Yes, it's normally found between the pilot and his seat. Adjustment is then achieved via the pitch trim wheel.
  13. Like it. Well mine is just about ready to roll now but with the storm forcast this weekend I don't think it will get it's maiden for a few days. Hmm.. that razor saw is beckoning... Could there be time? A.
  14. It needs to be the right length, other than that it's just a bit of wire so you should be ok to repair. Might be worth finding out why it broke, could there be any other damage to consider?
  15. About 3 weeks ago I ordered a new esc from hk. Still waiting. A week ago I was getting impatient and saw one on Amazon so I ordered that, the first one will be a useful spare. Still waiting. Last night I broke a prop, my fault, poor landing. Onto the gliders website to order a spare, added the esc I needed as an afterthought. Props and esc arrived lunchtime today. Now that's service and that's why I will be using them again. A.
  16. Well I now have a suitable exhaust pipe. I don't have any bending springs like yours Rob, my smallest spring is 15mm, used for bending copper pipes when plumbing! A bit of old snake outer did the trick and I used a short length of 1mm insulated copper wire inside it instead of a spring. The wire od is fairly close to the id of the snake outer. First one got too hot and melted but second go worked fine. Once bent I have left the wire in place to use as a fixing peg. Now to have another look at that front grill. Unfortunately I have already fitted the front nose block. I have managed to shape the hole so I can just fiddle the motor in and out so I can remove it if needed. Perhaps I should have made the whole nose piece removable? Thanks, Andrew
  17. Thanks Rob, that looks exactly like what I was thinking of. Will give it a go tonight. On another matter, how did you get the grill in behind the prop? I have been trying to figure this one for a while, seems to me it needs to be fitted before the motor, but then of course you can't get the motor in or get at any of the fixings. Andrew
  18. Putting the finishing touches on my DF now and it occurred to me that a pair of dummy exhaust manifolds stuck on the sides might add a bit of character. Any suggestions for how to make these please, probably 4 or 6 ports per side perhaps? It might not be genuine ic but at least it can look like it is.
  19. Any sign of a parts kit for the Skywriter?
  20. Screen problem solved, hot melt glue gun. Sticks to both the solarfilm and the perspex like the proverbial... Like the tab solution, will try this next time, when the film rips off from the balsa probably . Had already made the screen without tabs so too late for this one.
  21. LH wing is now built. Just starting on the RH. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I finally went with Richard's method, the instructions in the mag just don't make sense until after you've built one. Fus is complete with an electric conversion, added a second firewall half way down the engine bay. One issue left, how do you get the screen to stick onto solarfilm? Don't think there is a glue that will bond perspex to film, suspect I will need to cut back to bare wood to get a secure fixing, or alternatly drill and screws?
  22. Hi Richard, how did you overcome the size diferrences with R1 to R4? ie where did you add the missing 2mm or did you reposition the le or te to fit? Also how did you assemble the le sheet? The cross section at the root shows the top and bottom sheet butting up to the rear of the le but the cross section at the bell crank shows it on the top/bottom of the le. I can't work out from the plan view how this is possible or if one or the other is correct, how did you do it? Sorry if I am missing something obvious here but this is my first build from a plan, I have always done kits before this so I am struggling a bit to work some of it out. Andew
  23. If the problem is just in the copying process does this suggest that it could also be corrected photographically by applying the right amount of stretch in an appropriate direction when copying the plans? Bit like the Hubble solution! My issue is determining the correct shape for the extended ribs, if I just add a bit at the end I will have a concave profile where it is added, to my mind it needs size adding all the way down the curve of the rib to work properly.   Edited By Andrew Eastland on 09/04/2013 17:11:21
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