Roger Adams

I don't know whether this helps but I was having trouble binding a T6J at a friends house over the weekend. A google search suggested that it could be interference from the internet router (we were in the house at the time). We took both the plane & transmitter to the bottom of the garden & it bound first time. This may not be the issue, but its easy to do & worth a try.

Chuck my name in please.

I think it is a big no no. I tried it myself once but it gave no end of problems with surfaces going all over the place. An electronics chappie tried suggested to me that servos reference the signal wire against the negative & with these commoned up then these references were being affected. Whether this was the real reason or not I have no idea, but not something I would try again. I recommend the AShlock connectors available from Phil Clark at FighterAces

I guess it would be rude not to join in.

The Defiant was designed against an Air Ministry specification that called for a fighter with an enclosed turret. The belief was that this was the most effective means to attack bombers was a broadside attack. (Another triumph of theory over practice )   I believe that the Hawker Hotspur was a rival designed to the same specification, but lost out because of Hawkers other commitments. Edited By Roger Adams on 13/02/2013 19:59:52

Steve, referring back to your original question regarding using a common positive & neutral, don't. I tried it a couple of years ago and it seemed OK at first but then I got servo anarchy, with twitching occurring all over the place, fortunately before I took off. A club member who was much more electronics savvy than me gave me an explanation of what was happening. If I understood him correctly he was saying that the servo compares the voltage on the signal wire to that on the neutral for positioning, and that by using a common neutral this reference point was not stable. I did not understand why this would not occur with the connection being at the receiver, but reverting to 9 pins instead of 5 solved all the problems. Edited By Roger Adams on 28/11/2012 15:53:01

Please enter me in the lucky dip

Hi Olly I built a workshop 2 years ago. I wanted to fit it into a particular corner of the garden & maximise the available space. By building it myself I had full control of all the dimensions. The finished building is 14' X 8' 6" externally, 13' 6" X 8' internally. The outside is 15mm shiplap and the inside is clad with flooring grade chipboard. The roof is boarded externally & internally with OSB board and capped with corrugated bituman sheeting for weather proofing. All the cavities have a vapour barrier and 2" Kingspan insullation, while the floor has 4" kingspan insulation. The building is raised off the ground to prevent damp. All the windows are double glazed units rescued from some window replacements in the house. All the external & framework timbers are tanalised for long life. I have found this an extremely cost effective & comfortable workshop. The whole cost of construction including the groundworks, the electrics & the internal benching cost about £1200. I believe that it gives the comfort of the log cabin, at the cost of the equivalent sized shed. I had never done anything like this before but found most of the ideas that I used in book called 'Workshop Construction' by Jim Forrest & Peter Jennings. Be aware that whether you build a shed or buy one, there are planning restrictions that dictate the maximum height according to how close to the boundary it is.

I have separate ailerons and flaps with the ailerons on channels 1 & 7, whilst the flaps are on channel 6. I then use the 3 position switch in the up position to have no flap, & in the down position to have full flap. To achieve this I have the flap servo set so that the neutral position gives about half flap. Then set P-Mix 2 to these settings: Change from INH to ON or OFF (this will depend on the current position of the switch that is currently assigned - A by default) MAS>OFS SLV>CH6 SW>E (with block arrow pointing down) RT> + xx% (rotate the programming wheel unit the flaps are completely up) and then set P-Mix 3 to these settings: Change INH to ON or OFF MAS>OFS SLV>CH6 SW>E (with block arrow pointing up) RT> -xx% (rotate the programming wheel unit the flaps are fully down)   The 3 position switch should then give no flap, half flap & full flap. I hope this helps but please ask if anything is still not clear.Edited By Roger Adams on 09/12/2011 18:29:04

HI, it's not easy is it. I've got a couple of models where I have set the flaps to the 3 position switch. I can't remember exactly how I did it (I'm at work at the moment) but I know that I used 2 programable mixes to provide settings for the mid position & fully down. It works great once it's sorted. If this doesn't give you enough info I can check the exact set up when I'm at home.   RogerEdited By Roger Adams on 09/12/2011 14:09:50

Glen   I have also been looking at hobby lathes and I think the same machine is available here http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathes/Model-C3-Mini-Lathe and might be a bit cheaper. I also think that Alex Whittaker has one of these.

Variation on the theme. Laminate floors use a fibre tile as a sound insulation and to even out slight irregularities. These tiles are cheap (can often be blagged) and I use then stuck to an MDF board. They are usually about 6mm thick and take pins very well.  

Answered my own question (with considerable help from MThemadhatter). Each strutt is made with 4 ply outers and a balsa core. Since the strength will come from the ply outers rather than the balsa inne,r the core can be in 2 pieces. The strength will be maintained by the birch ply inner at the lower end, to which all 4 ply outers will be bonded.   It's all very easy and obvious when you read the instructions properly. Hope that helps Doug.

Hi all I'm still plodding along with my build, I almost have a complete set of constructed wooden components. I think the only parts I have still to build are the wing struts but I am a little confused as to the best way to construct the cores of these. The plan indicates a lite ply core but I am not sure whether it is best to cut each side as a single forked core, or whether to make the front and back cores separately ensuring the grain runs longitudinally and then join them to a single birch ply core at the under carriage end. How have you guys who are so far ahead of me done it?

Thanks for the quick response TMH. I saw it yesterday but didn't have the time to respond. (Had to go & loose a game of cricket )   You have persuaded me that the centre hinged method is what I should do. I have actually used this method on the elevators but found it difficult to get the radiused profile correct. Danny's technique brings a logical planning & marking process that should make it a lot easier. Annoyingly it seems so logical & sensible I can't believe I didn't think of it.

Hi guys, I'm looking for a piece of advice regarding hinging the flaps. I have been re-reading the discussion of hinging techniques on page 29 of this forum. I was wondering about the desirability (or otherwise) of hinging the flaps at the bottom. This would enable maximum flap deployment with no restriction from the hinging. However this seems so obvious I wondered why nobody had done it other than it would not be scale. Then I wondered if the gap that forms on the top of the wing when the flaps are deployed would have negative aerodynamic affects. Is anybody able to explain the aerodynamic consequences?

If you are marginal on a noise test try a bigger prop, it will rev slower & be quieter.

I have just repaired a model after a crash(forgot to extend the arial - doh) with a 91 four stroke. In now uses a Graupner Sonic instead of the previous ASP. A subjective assessment suggests that it is quieter, but this could be for a number of reasons including better balance of the prop & or spinner which was also replaced.

I think it deserves a home in the Midlands

I'm not the world's authority on this but I have a couple of 66" war birds with SC91's in & they both have 1/4 fire walls. I would be perfectly happy with it in the Maricado (I had a 52 2 stroke in mine) but I would make sure I added some decent well fitting triangular stock behind the firewall.   If you want to be extra sure you could extend the sides & ply doublers forward in front of the firewall and make the firewall with a small tennon top & bottom to engage with slots cut in the extended doubler.   Roger

Having just done 10 minutes of research the most widely available seems to be a digital version from Hanger 9. Since this is claimed to have a patent pending I assume its a new product.

Thanks for the advice Mthemadhatter, I've often thought of an incidence meter but never actually acquired one. I have a birthday coming up soon, perhaps that should be on my list. Are there good meters & less good meters or are they all pretty much the same?

First of all a big hello to all the contributors on this forum. I have been watching it since it started with the ambition of building my Lizzie when time permits. This time has now come and I have made a start. Armed with the wisdom of this topic I have hopefully avoided most of the potential pitfalls. I have built the fuselage and the tail feathers and am now building the wing outer panels using the method posted by Terry Whiting to achieve some washout. (about page 29 or 30). Before I commit with glue there is a question I would like to ask. Terry makes reference to 'the steel rule check' in relation to sanding the top of the inner LE. What is the steel rule check? Also with regard to Terry's wash out instructions, I was amazed at how the counter intuitive reverse taper creates washout when it appears to be creating wash in. Its only when assembling the ribs and realising how much they each have to be pushed down to meet the TE packing, that the washout becomes apparent. I would love to hear your explanation Terry of how you calculated the dimensions of the tapered TE packing strip.

I don't know the answer, but I know a man who does.  Give Neil Tidey a ring, you can get his number from the laser web site.  He will be very helpful and is sure to know the answer.

I have one that was in a model I bought 2nd hand about 5 years ago, and it has never let me down.  My subjective opinion is that it produces more power than both the SC & ASP 52s that I have.   I did damage it in a big crash that riped the exhaust threads out of the head about 3 years ago, but it was repaired by David Turner who I think posts on this forum, and since then it has conitued it's normal reliable operation.    I've never owned the OS version but my experience of this engine has been very good.