John C

You struck lucky! I hope you gets lots of pleasure setting it up with iNav. For me that is part of the fun and when it doesn't work properly the challenge of narrowing down what I have done wrong!

It is amazingly portable and looks as if it will fit your requirements well. I'm sure you will keep it as light as possible to keep the wing loading low. I did this with my AR900 wing but it needed some experimenting with equipment locations before committing. The challenge was to get the right CG with a light lipo which needed to be far forward. Some large Talons are built for long range and look as if they need a very strong throw to get them into the air!

That looks like a very nice model. I hope it comes back into stock soon for you! Let us know how you get on. Good luck, John

With your flying experience you should be fine with the AR900 Wing. The AR900 Wing with a 3S 2200mAh lipo doesn't have a high wing loading and I would estimate has a stall speed similar to my WOT4 foam-e. When setting up iNav it is important to be able to launch and fly the model in manual mode to trim it before setting up the other modes in the progression recommended. Nav Launch comes much later and is the most challenging to get right in my experience. I launch my AR900 in Manual Mode with my left hand (right hand on stick ready to control it) by holding the front of the port wing near the root and use a back hand throw which is quite low and nose pointing up about 30 degrees. The great thing is that crashes on launching don't tend to break it (on playing field grass). It has the advantage of having lots of room and easy access for fitting all the iNav gear your want. The ZOHD Drift looks very interesting and could be just the job for your project. I have read that in a dive the wings (I think it was) can twist and it is not possible to pull out of the dive. See Paweł Spychalski's YT video. In light winds and if kept under say 200' below the strong thermals this should not be a problem (in strong thermals I had to spin my Radian down to avoid the wings breaking off!). The Drift seems to be quite floaty. The Volantex Ranger 1600 may be another option. I have never seen or flown one but it may be suitable. Have you looked at Andrew Newton's YT channel and also RagTheNuttsOff? Both these guys are very experienced RC pilots and say what they think and suggest any modifications required. The Ranger 1600 seems to have just enough space inside the fuselage and seems to fly very well. I haven't flown the ZOHD Dart but I think the AR900 wing would be more docile and suitable. With iNav ailerons are a good idea to allow it to stabilise the roll axis. I looked into setting up iNav in my Easy Star (without ailerons) and there was inadequate guidance on how to set it up in a rudder only model. John

Hi Robin That all sounds very exciting! I have an AR900 wing which I fly LOS and FPV with a flight controller and iNav. It is an excellent model. Very tough which was good because it took me many crashes to learn the right technique to launch it. This was after 6 years of fixed wing flying. If you have a mate who can launch it for you on its maiden that is very helpful! If this is your first fixed wing plane (as suggested by your last sentence) I don't think the AR900 Wing is suitable to learn to fly. I would strongly recommend a Bixler or Easy Star type to learn LOS flying a fixed wing plane. A wing is too fast and lacks inherent stability. The INAV Fixed Wing Facebook Group (see link below) also give this same advice. I have an Easy Star but it lacks space in the fuselage to fit a flight controller with GPS. Just use this to learn to fly then move to the AR900 Wing when your feel you have learnt good control and landing skills. I followed the Painless360 videos to set it up. I suggest that you join the INAV Fixed wing Group who will be much better at answering your questions than I would be. They also have excellent guides at INAV Fixed wing Group website . You will also find useful technical videos at Mr D's YouTube page . To me your spec all looks good quality. Normally GPS only has an accuracy of about 2m as far as I know. Surveyors use a base station as a reference to get 2cm accuracy but I don't know how that is done. The Speedy Bee v2 android app is excellent for making iNav adjustment in the field. The technology is amazing. If you enjoy that sort of thing you may enjoy learning OpenTX. I moved from Spektrum and am very pleased I did. Good luck and enjoy the experience. John

Some people build large carrying boxes (from corrugated signboard plastic sheet) to keep them safe. I throw mine in the back of the car. When it is breezy it is a good idea to hold them by the motor/prop and allow them to weather cock into the wind/gusts. I haven't had any transport damage doing this for about three years now. It is a good idea to store them hanging from the prop so as not to distort the foam by lying to one side (the wings/ailerons are vulnerable to this. The foam seems so thin and floppy on these models but they are remarkably tough. After a few months of regular use they tend to get a bit battered looking (especially around the nose) and put on a few grams of weight with glue and Blenderm tape but they continue to fly very well. They are not fragile like Depron F3P models. BTW they don't fly super slow like a Night Vapor or an Ares Pup (or super light F3P models) but the Twisted Hobbies superlite models are great for low cost indoor aerobatics/3D.

Posted by trebor on 18/12/2018 18:24:00: Thanks John I will have a look at the Clik r2, are they EPP or Depron ? Ps, The Gym hall I go to is only 3 Badminton courts big so thats why I looked at the smallest. Edited By trebor on 18/12/2018 18:32:36 The Clik is EPP and takes crashes well. Repair cracks in the foam with Uhu Por and tape across the break with 1/2" Blenderm tape and it is unlikely to tear in that spot again. EPP needs to be primed with a thin tack coat of Uhu Por to get Blenderm to stick permanently. The Clik is the best indoor aerobatic and 3D model for small spaces. Not a small space but nice and slow flying **LINK** Flat rudder turns are best for small gyms as they keep the speed down and can be very tight.

Posted by trebor on 17/12/2018 18:53:47: I,ve just been looking at one of these mini yaks **LINK** They do a nice Biplane version, does anyone know how slow these will fly ? I have the Twisted Hobbies 24" Mini Edge. It is very twitchy and hard to fly compared with the 32" superlite models like the Clik R2 or Crack Laser Pro. I have a Crack Laser Pro and it flies very well. When you have mastered the knack it hovers very steadily (I cannot keep the 24" Edge in a hover). The Clik R2 has a low wing loading and flies very well indoors and is an excellent model. The superlite models have a lot of carbon rod bracing which makes them stiff. The Mini Edge has no bracing and the whole tail twists when full elevator is applied and requires aileron correction. Too much for me to cope with at the same time!

I have just used your documentation to install OpenTX on my new Horus X10S and to set up a few models using Companion. Thank you very much for this excellent documentation. It is very clear and easy to follow - far better than anything else I have found on the web. It was particularly helpful to have a guide that covers Companion and the Horus X10 so well. There is lots out there on the Taranis but it is hard to follow as a newcomer to OpenTX using a different TX and Companion. Your pdfs are very detailed and comprehensive and make a great reference source with their excellent contents pages. I am now going back through them for a second time filling in the gaps in my understanding. It was particularly helpful to have a guide on setting up a Blade heli using an external module. That must have been a mammoth task and I would like to say a very big thank you for making it available to us! Did you write the excellent articles on building the Seagull e-Pioneer in RCM&E? I used them to build my first model five years ago and get started in RC. I followed your advice and it all worked out very well. John

Have a look at Twisted Hobbys models manufactured by RC Factory. Like the Wargo, they are made of EPP which bounces and is easy to repair with Uhu Por. When the foam cracks glue it together and strengthen the area by priming the surface with Uhu Por and stick Blenderm tape at right angles across the crack. It probably won't break again in that area. Fly over grass and you will mostly only have to pay for replacement props (GWS slow fly at £1.25). I have learnt to fly simple 3D with these models. It is great fun and stress free! Best to start with a 800mm span size. 600mm is very twitchy and 1000mm needs more space and is intimidating when close. Something like the Crack Yak 55 Lite would be a good model to start with - simple to build and flies outside in light winds. **LINK** Buy the servo and power sets too - they suit the models very well and are great value. The manuals are online at Twisted Hobbys. As I recall, the recommend COG in the manual for this model is too far back. You need a neutral trim with very little stick required upright and inverted. As others have suggested a simulator is very helpful for 3D. I started with Phoenix but I find Realflight is much better for 3D (a couple of years ago a Phoenix update made hovering too easy). Use the biggest 3D models, even though you fly small ones, as they are the easiest to fly and less twitchy. Keep the model very close so you can see it very clearly. Have fun. If you have an indoor club with a sports hall, the Clik is the model to get. Have a look at this forum **LINK** Very helpful and friendly with lots of good advice from very good pilots. Another excellent thread is **LINK** Good luck.

Posted by Martin Whybrow on 10/08/2017 19:56:50: The way airlines deal with Lithium ion battery (valid for LiPos as well) fires is to drop them in a metal bucket and pour water on them; you need to cool the battery down below the point where it's breaking down. You will hear people telling you not to put water on a metal fire - they're correct, but there's no lithium metal in a lithium ion battery so it's OK to use water. Thanks for this advice which I had not heard before. There is a good video on this method on the CAA website: **LINK**

Some useful information here **LINK**

Things seem to have improved. I ordered a HH's Commander (which was in stock) 7 days ago. At the end of the following day I received an email confirming my order and when I logged into my account I could see that it said 'shipped'. It arrived this morning by DPD. Slower delivery than from UK retailers but the price was excellent and I am delighted.

Posted by Bruce Miller 2 on 06/09/2016 14:14:45o, I suggest, there is an information vacuum that is stifling sales of a good product. I agree with you completely. I find that lack of information like this is very frustrating. See Andy's post #6418 for the information I referred to: **LINK**

Andy Kunz of Spektrum has written on the RC Groups forum "There are several different versions of code in the various AR636 products. They have varying levels of programmability, ranging from none (Sukhoi) to partial (most RTR/BNFs, some SAFE) to full non-SAFE (open stock). And as noted elsewhere, the "A" or "H" or no suffix mean little to nothing." The new E-Flite Sukhoi 29mm (Gen 2) Blue n' White has a fully programmable RX but the previous version does not, so beware. I found if very frustrating that on my Eflite Splendor that the RX modes determined rates and expo as well as the gyro gains. Fully progammable sounds much better!