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Peter Garsden

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Everything posted by Peter Garsden

  1. Am now back from holiday. Ton has been very helpful in suggesting an alternative propellor for the larger 49mm long motor which I had squeezed in and shown in previous photos. After more help from Masher, I decided that the new motor would be too heavy and probably powerful for this model. I would have to put the batter under the wing which would make the removable cowling redundant, unless I added some extra weight to the tail, which obviously is to be avoided. So I emailed RBC Kits who pointed out that they could not accept a return of a motor that had been installed (understandably), and suggested two alternative models for my now surplus motor. Sadly all Ton's kits which appealed to me seem to need the smaller motor. The problem orginally was that the motor suggested in the RCME & E Magazine is now no longer produced - the Typhoon 29/12/10. It is 36mm long. I have ordered the replacement motor (Typhoon 3814 1070kv), which you can see in this photo and is available from RBC here. It is better than what I had as it is 38mm long but still a bit too long, so I have retained some of the extension to F1 (6mm) which is much better and a good fit for the blue spinner I have bought. The build can now continue, so let's hope I can carry on, this problem now having been conquered, albeit at extra expense. Edited By Peter Garsden on 22/08/2014 17:11:15
  2. Excellent shots - look forward to seeing you next meeting in October.
  3. Looks very neat, Ton. Have messaged you about the former. If my building ends up anywhere near as neat at this looks I will be very happy indeed.
  4. Excellent Masher - just what I need - let me know which one you go for and I will order it. I think I measured the distance from F1 to F2 at 31mm but I am away from home at the moment so cannot check the plan.
  5. Thanks very much for all your work Ton. I am beginning to wonder whether it would just be simpler to get another motor from RBC Kits - the motor I got is obviously way over powered for the model - so either they will swop it for the right motor or I will buy another one which is the right power and the right length. That seems so much more sensible. I know you specified a motor for the model but I got the impression you thought it could do with a bit more power. As I have 3 x 2200ma 3S batteries I would like to use them rather than buy new ones. What would you recommend? I am emailing RBC Kits anyway.
  6. Am now regretting Not being able to stay to find Phil's model - it has happened to me and I know how worrying it can be. Found my Phase 6 downwind in the same way that you obviously did - well done. Not coming on Sunday - I had to return early on Saturday and when I got back the barbeque I was returning for didn't happen. All I got was - you're late anyway - you were meant to be here at 3 o'clock. Great day on Saturday, however, and thanks to all for good company and big thanks to Phil for organising. Have put a posting on the LMMGA website here - **LINK**if you want to look at photos and video. Did manage some fantastic Sand Yachting on the beach on Sunday, which was awesome. They can travel at speeds of between 40 and 70mph.
  7. Beginner's question for you chaps - I don't have the recommended motor (29/12/10 - I think it was - Ton will know) but this is the Typhoon 1320kv Motor. I bought the recommended 10x6 prop and plan to run it on a standard 3S 2200mah battery. Will the battery and the prop still work for this motor or should I change them for something else?
  8. Good luck Masher - put some build photos up on this thread or start another one. Ton - thanks very much for the offer of a mock up of F2, that would help a lot. I am on holiday now till 18th August - which is a bit frustrating as I would love to get going. If you look at the photo you can work out how far back F2 needs to go because I have built up the nose in sheets of 3/16, 1/16, and 1/2 inch balsa which makes in total 3/4 of an inch in total - converted to mm = 19.05mm. So F2 needs to move backwards by 19.05mm. Is that enough for you to remap me and F2? If so a million thank yous. I think you can send it through the messaging facility, if not I will message you my email address, let me know, and thank you again. Also I take your point about reinforcement and I agree. I was wondering that myself. As it is all very light balsa, I was think it would be OK. I am also prejudging things before the side sheets go on, which I know firms things up considerably. The thing is I come from the world of slope soarers where weight just makes gliders go faster in high winds and where heavy landings are the order of the day.
  9. I have been flying the Vulcan now for about 15 months. It came from the My Hobby Store Ian Benson plan - **LINK** The Alpha Jet is fibreglass fuselage, and foam wings. Had to make a hot wire cutter, and a transformer specially. It was an adventure but it flies well in reasonably strong winds. Went a treat earlier in the year at the Orme when we had 50mph winds. It is a Paul Janssen plan available from Traplet **LINK**
  10. These are photos of my Vulcan and Alpha Jet taken at the last PSSA meeting, together with a photo of the real Vulcan taken last summer from the Mermaid site at the Leek and Moreland club when the real one flew over on the way to a display in Rhyl.
  11. Are you planning to take your Vulcan to the PSSA fly in at Abersoch this weekend Mark? I am taking my Vulcan. Wind forecast looks good. Photo attached
  12. Thanks very much for that Simon. Unfortunately I had already put on the first two 1" deep side fuselage pieces, but I have reflected on what you say, and read your build thread. The last thing I want is to have to take the wing off every time I want to change the battery. I think I would rather put some lead on the tail to correct the balance to be honest. One wouldn't need much. I can see that I am just going to have to remove F2 and move it back. You are right, and thanks very much for the tip. It shouldn't matter too much. I can remake F2 to the correct dimensions easy enough. I will just saw through the existing one top and bottom and leave two stubs behind. I can easily do that. I agree that it would be worth it to make life difficult later on. To answer your question - yes I did use threadlock and tightened up everything - will now have to come off again, but will certainly use it. I have a foam Dynam Pitts Special where the wing came loose due to not using threadlock so I am forewarned about that.
  13. This photo shows the packing at the front. Always a challenge. I am a bit of an amateur with electric flight. When RBC kits offered me this motor, I should have turned it down as it was too long. I just assumed that as they were supplying the kit, they wouldn't sell me a motor which was too long. They obviously did so. I did think of moving F2 back to suit, but if I had done that the lines would have been wrong because F2 would have been too narrow. I hope this is a better solution.
  14. My next problem is that my motor is longer than the intended motor, and more poweful, so I added an extra F2 out of 3mm ply which is a good move, I am sure as the motor is now a lot more secure. It also meant that the motor was back to front in view of the mounting - above I have said that I took it apart and moved the shaft backwards - I used my pillar drill as a press - and also there was a huge gap between F1 and the front of the motor. I decided that it would add extra strength to the front end if I added some rings of balsa then capped it off with some 1.5mm ply. There is now just a 3mm gap before the spinner. This unfortunately has altered the lines of the nose slightly and made the fuselage side sheeting more of a challenge. I am a bit concerned that extra weight further forward will mean the C of G is too far forward, but we will see. I can always move the batter back and the servos - we will see later.
  15. These pictures show the reinforcement I have added to the internal joints.
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