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chris Ibbotson

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Everything posted by chris Ibbotson

  1. Hi Ken, Been there to-day for the first time, the weather was almost perfect blue skies and the wind was almost straight down the runway. The LMA pilots were fantastic and showed some absolutely amazing flying skills with their aircrafts. The limited trade presence was evident:-but they were positive about our sport/hobby's future and some bargains were to be had. I bought a Blair RAF Se5a kit for £40 (should be £70). There was good food to eat at reasonable prices . The runway was split into two to allow the big boys / Jet jockeys to fly while at the other end was the "regular" flyers doing there thing My highlight of the day was a young lady called Fiona. All she wanted to do was build and fly a model aircraft, she got her chance of flying thanks' to "buddy" (she was 3yrs old) the rest is down to parents. The future is not lost. If you get the chance go to-morrow. Great day out Chris and Bev
  2. Hi All A very nice choice for a build,. As has been said an expensive build. You could use a quad copter speed controller for the fans "Electriflier" used one to power 4 engines. They were all perfectly synchronised. Ray I have bought FMS fans for all the TN jets including the E.E. Frightning. Will be following with interest. regards Chris
  3. Thanks' for the replies, Cymaz I jumped the gun and ordered the "Airhogs remote control TB 2" it arrives this Wednesday and I will be looking to scale it up. I have Visio CAD software to do the drawings. Kiwikid, that TB2 sloper looks fantastic have you any details of it I live on the East coast very close to "flyable" cliff tops (3 minute walk) so I could do a sloper. The other option is to use my 2 FMS 50mm EDF's as used by Tony Nijhuis in his jets, possibly with a central motor/propeller like a helicopter rotor but built inside the body to provide lift. I would use Depron/wood to build because of the light weight it produces. This months RCM&E article by Alex Whittaker did show a TB 2 in balsa by U-build, when you look at the website it is not listed or mentioned. Could a moderator try to find out where it came from. Thanks again Chris
  4. Hi all, I'm thinking of a winter build and I need your help please. Don't ask why but I like the idea of building Gerry Andersons "Thunderbird 2". I have searched the internet looking for free down load plans but to no avail. The question is are there any plans available for this and if so where. Thanks' in anticipation Chris
  5. Bob, I'm following your build with interest. I have never heard of using ammonia to assist in bending balsa. Can you explain how you use it please. Thanks' Chris
  6. Hi I spend a lot of time in the Scarborough area and I would like to know of any r/c fixed wing flying clubs. Also any model shops in the area that supply balsa/covering servos etc. materials as I am an avid builder. The type of aircraft I try to fly are all electric power. Thanks for any info Chris
  7. Help please, Has any one got the AS3X receiver settings for a Radian 2.6mt glider? I’ve bound the receiver-that’s ok, the transmitter works the rudder & elevator as per normal. When I switch the “stability” on only the rudder responds to axis movement. The elevator will not respond. The rudder reacts with very rapid “juddery” movement. I have an Opterra BNF with AS3X and when in “safe” the surfaces move smoothly and stay in the correction position until the axis is manually returned to level. I am using a laptop to program the receiver. Any ideas please. Chris
  8. To an outstanding Engineer and a true Gentleman in his occupation and his hobby. I had the great pleasure of meeting Geoff many times at the model shop when I had gone in for advice with my builds. He always showed great interest and bestowed enthusiasm and advice to me. Thank you Geoff, it will never be forgotten. R.I.P Geoff Noble
  9. Hi Peter, Try using "Eezy-Coat" water based Pu sealer. Apply one coat to the wing using a good quality synthetic brush( 1to 2 inch wide) and let fully dry over-night and then sand with 800 grit wet/dry and apply a second coat . Allow to fully dry over-night and then sand with 1000 grit wet/dry and using tack rags to remove any dust. Superb finish and superb product. As for the comment about film overlaps not staying stuck use a product called "prymol" follow the instructions on the tin and this will enhance the overlap/glue joint strength. Used these both for the last 6 years and never failed.
  10. Martian, Just picked up on this build and I've found it very informative and interesting. I have to say a very nice build quality and finish you have achieved. Hope she flies as well as she looks. Any chance of pick's/video of the maiden Best regards Chris
  11. A big thank-you to Charles for doing the maiden and to Roy for the fab pictures. Thank-you to all who have followed this build. It's always encouraging to know people are following. So what have I learnt from this build? 1. Keep the PU glue joints clean, i.e. wipe excess glue off. I found I could save 50% weight by doing this. 2. Check and double check electrical connections for correct polarity after soldering joints. Cost me a ESC & battery. 3. You can PU glue blue foam and still (hot wire) cut the join. 4. Don't over engineer the structure. Keep it simple and accurate to fly. Since the maiden I've had a tidy up in hanger one. So what's next you may ask Watch this space. Till next time Chris
  12. Its that catch up time, again. As I'm close to the final part of the build I took the almost completed airframe to my (LMS) for scrutiny by (Electriflier and Pilot Chuckles) We/They looked at the build and saw a potential problem with the composite trailing edge of the main wing. A thickness of 9/10mm. This was a balsa trailing edge with a 3mm depron skin on both sides. The consensus opinion was that the air flow would just fall off and cause turbulence and degrade control. The other issue was could the small surface area of the aileron be effective to control the aircraft. The solution was to remove the aileron and replace with a solid balsa trailing edge. This would add 10mm to the wing cord and add a more ridged fixing for the elevator horns. After gluing, sanding and painting. A blind man on a galloping horse wouldn't/couldn't see the change. Would they. Now I've got my contra props (Thanks "Pilot Chuckle", LMS Rotherham). I thought it might be useful to give you some facts and figures of my build to date. Using the 8x5 contra props and a 4s 30c 3200mAh battery. I recorded 540 Watts at 17Amp per motor(well within limits of power draw of each motor). This should give a flight time of about 5.5 min on full power. The flying weight, including batteries is 4lb 12oz. I know I have plenty of power on tap to fly, which is nice. The big question I have to ask is how the extension of the trailing edge is going to affect the CofG location. Please advise. regards Chris
  13. It's got to that part of the build where I am watching paint dry. The plane was painted twice with each coat sanded down using wet and dry (as before) then a fine polish with brasso and car polish to get a shine. Masking of the air frame was done and paint applied The windows were marked out using a card stencil Silver solar trim was cut and applied The windows were highlighted with black trim and marker pen The main wing was attached and out side pick's were taken A small breeze blew and she took a take of position. Is this a good omen Till the next time Thank you Chris
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