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eflightray

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Everything posted by eflightray

  1. I'm another 72"er. Again based on the TN plan and built in Depron. Spit's always look so fantastic in the air. May there be more 86"ers.
  2. Posted by kc on 01/07/2014 10:51:22: I suggest " Real Aeromodellers Build Their Own Aircraft" as a sticker, and maybe the title for Peter's book. Edited By kc on 01/07/2014 10:51:49 So you see all those others as not 'real aeromodellers'. Perhaps you still make your own radio gear ?, servos ?, engines ?, or perhaps your not a 'real engineer', just a toy builder. Why not just, "Easy ways to build your own model planes", if a book needs a title. (But who needs an out of date book, (eventually), when you have the Internet). Ray
  3. My personal view. Yes I would love more people to get involved in model planes in general, if getting them into the hobby involves them buying RTF or ARF models, great. They at least started down the slippery slope, they can always build later. But to criticise any part of the hobby, (I know it's tongue in cheek, I hope), could put someone new to the hobby off. I have heard of clubs turning away potential new members if they fly a cheap electric model. The IC v electric, balsa v foam, ARF v building, should be though about perhaps a little more seriously as in my opinion it doesn't matter what you use as long as you enjoy the hobby. If you don't like ARF models, Ok by me. But would you go to one of the big model shows and criticise those flying the large 30cc, 50cc, for having basically a ARF model. By the way, all my models are scratch built except for two, why I bought them ?, even I wonder, but I wouldn't criticise the market that supplies them or the buyers that buy them. For a start they are helping keep the prices of all the radio gear etc down. Ray.   Edited By eflightray neath on 01/07/2014 10:16:59
  4. What about, "No foam for me, I only use balsa" "No electric for me, I like noise" "No IC engines for me, I kept my flying site" "No CNC cut kits for me, I prefer to cut myself" The list could probably go on and on, with posters adding their own particular biased view. Yes, I even have my biased views about tasteless stickers as well
  5. This thread shows the method I now tend to use --- **LINK**
  6. To late to the party, but I use a box method for creating fuselages, and then add the outer shaped 'ribs' for the skin support. Works well, and gives a handy internal box for the radio gear, battery(s), and any payload if you want opening rear doors. Perhaps next time
  7. If you're flying electric power, why not use a separate SBEC for the retracts, I do.
  8. Now if there was just a method of reducing a Lipos waist after it appears to have pigged out on something, (bloated ), then that would be handy. Having Lipos that still give a good charge and output, show quite good cell balance, but struggle to fit themselves in a slim fuselage any more is rather annoying. Lipos, they appear to be either usable batteries, or un-exploded WMDs
  9. I store and transport mine in plastic ice cream tubs, (empty, of course), have done for years, (Ok so I like ice cream). Call me reckless, mad, whatever you like, the last time I had a battery problem was a Nicad pack 20+ years ago, that got left on charge in the boot of my car when distracted, the hissing sound as it vented save both it and my car from possible destruction, Since then I have been very careful over charging, never more than 1C, discard any packs that are warm during or after a charge, stay with the charging battery. Store packs partly discharged if I know I will not be flying for a while, or leave them partly discharged after use. Never abuse a pack, (high current). Crashed packs also get discarded. Do they still keep dynamite in wooden boxes ? Lipos can be dangerous, like petrol used in gas engines, probably whatever they use in turbines ?, even methanol is poisonus. Show respect to all potentially dangerous things, (including models), and hope they wont bite you. Don't get complacent just because you use an ammo box, still threat the contents with respect.
  10. I mentioned my 'big Mig' in a previous post, it's not EDF but EDP, P-prop. Twin internal 6" props, so it ain't exactly small. But it shows what a strange mind is capable of when it comes to low powered flight, flying on 470watts. Anyway a video of mine -- **LINK**
  11. Have a look round for plastic containers, bottles, etc. Or make a plug and heat shrink a drinks bottle around it. On mine I converted it to both motors in series, Gunther props, and a 3s 1800mAh Lipo, also reduced the size of the ailerons. Used to fly quite well, but sold it some time back.
  12. Also check any instructions/manual for - 'setting the throttle range' on the ESC.
  13. If fitting two new, (or old) ESC's and both have BEC, disable one of the BEC's, or disable both and fit an SBEC unless that's already been done. Running two BEC's in parallel is a risk. P.S. With twins, or any multi-motors a tacho is as handy as a wattmeter.
  14. Sorry, a bit late to this thread, but I like building big(ish) planes, and my first consideration is, 'how the hell is it going to fit in my car'. This thread should show some of my models and how I 'dis-assemble' them for transport. Hope it helps. **LINK**
  15. Interesting project, but, "No Balsa is used , well not much", so what are the wings made from I also love to use 'what's available' and have a stack of the clear plastic packaging moldings that seem to come with everything. It's that, 'well it looks like it could be used for a ....', but they rarely get used. I didn't get an Easter Egg this year, the clear plastic molding keep making me want to build another Catalina, (those moldings look just like the Cat's big blister windows). My big Mig was a project just to prove to myself it was possible. My hat goes off to anyone who is willing to have a go at scratch building. As they say, "Keep taking the tablets", as the box they came in may be useful for yet another project.
  16. Go electric, add a sound system, and you could have the correct Merlin sound. Must admit though that many scale models with 2-strokes just sound awful, 4-strokes do give a better sound.
  17. Posted by Allan Bennett on 22/04/2014 08:11:08: Posted by eflightray neath on 21/04/2014 15:58:43: Perhaps I should add, I wouldn't really recommend converting an IC model to electric, (though I do have a Seagull Models Miles Sparrow Hawk with electric power). ... But if you already have the oily models, and don't want to buy new ones, it makes sense. Always ends up better than when they were glow-powered, in my experience. Agreed. But if you can sell the oily to part finance an electric, or better still buy some balsa or Depron and build one, ...... that 'better', becomes even better'er. I have nothing against those that want to continue flying IC or do conversions, just pointing out that buying or build something designed purely for electric power can have an advantage. Compromises are just that, a compromise.
  18. Nice but noisy, I assume it was flight testing before fitting some sort of silencing and the chin cowl. !02" span is a bit bigger than my 72" one, but then I prefer electric power.   Edited By eflightray neath on 21/04/2014 20:32:18
  19. Daz, we got our Cavaliers from Many Tears, Llanethlli, they do a great job. More people should support the rescues and stop buying puppies from the many puppy farms, they would eventually go out of business.
  20. I would say 'save your money and go to a dog rescue organization.' They will also want to 'vet' you to ensure you, your family, and home are suitable for a dog, (at least I would hope a reputable place would). Too many dog breeders are just in it to make money, and will sell anything to anyone, suitable or not. Any reputable breeder who checks out a dog and family as suitable for each other, and is fine by me. And yes, we have two rescue dogs, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, rescued from a breeder at three years old. We have now had them for three years, and would recommend considering a dog rescue instead of the proverbial, 'we must have a puppy'. The cost of a rescue dog will also be considerable cheaper, (like a quarter to a tenth of some 'pedigree' breeders). Most of all, the dogs future should be the first consideration, not the feelings of potential owners.
  21. Perhaps I should add, I wouldn't really recommend converting an IC model to electric, (though I do have a Seagull Models Miles Sparrow Hawk with electric power). The reason ?, weight. You can build or buy a model that is designed purely for electric power that will often be considerably lighter than a model designed for an IC engine. Electrics don't have the vibration that a reciprocating engine has, so doesn't need the added strength often built in. My Sparrow Hawk is probably a couple of pounds heavier than if I had scratch built it. Lighter planes do fly better, and land slower, and can require less power. Well at least that's my view.   Edited By eflightray neath on 21/04/2014 15:59:34
  22. I think many of the older electric gliders that used brushed motors and Nimh packs are difficult to convert to brushless and Lipo, as they needed all that 'heavy' gear to get the CG correct, probably because of a shorter nose. Insert a brushless and Lipo and you may need a load of lead to get the CG correct. As for going 'electrickery', I converted some 30 years ago and wouldn't consider going back to glows, (the previous 25 years). Electric power opens up many new avenues to explore, especially multi motor planes, and my current enjoyment of scratch building using Depron foam. Some of mine -- http://www.eflightray.webspace.virginmedia.com/ -- and I've only scratched the surface of what else is possible.     Edited By eflightray neath on 21/04/2014 15:47:24 Edited By eflightray neath on 21/04/2014 15:48:05
  23. It could depend on whether one had dihedral and rudder, and the other no dihedral and ailerons, or both had no dihedral and ailerons. Dihedral has a stablizing function, even the Spitfire as some dihedral if scale(ish). Most 3D models will generally have a flat wing. The two types of models are chalk and cheese, you wouldn't want to try 3D with a Spit, (unless a hooligan), or paint a 3D model in camouflage and roundels, (unless a hooligan), plus their flight characteristics are different. If you have flown a high or shoulder wing no dihedral aileron model, trying a low wing shouldn't really be a problem.
  24. I wonder how many people prefer not to fly with a club as they find some club members just too annoying What annoys some people can be quite enjoyable to others, it's just the way we are. And especially as we get older our tolerances change. As a 'young-un', I enjoyed noisy exhausts, (even had an exhaust cut-out on my Vanguard), but now as an 'old-un', a near neighbour with an off-road bike drives me mad. Add to that, when someone often quotes, 'It's my right to...', that usually means, 'I don't give a darn about anyone elses rights'. Yes, we are a wonderful bunch of individuals, who have one important thing to look after ......     Edited By eflightray neath on 03/04/2014 19:30:43
  25. Posted by ericrw on 03/04/2014 14:40:08: thanks ! I`ve just had a look at your Drag racing days, very interesting !! That was a looooong time ago, then I got married.
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