John Van Buuren

1. Carlson Aircraft Sparrow Sport Special 2. Airco DH5 bipe 3. Airtruk

Magic! And yes, a Junior 60 would suit very well.

See http://modelflyermagazine.com/Frames/BackIssues/Issue07_01.htm It's in the December 2005 Model Flyer mag.

Alpha 180 ARF electric glider. 6 cells nicad, 540 brushed motor, plastic fuse, full size radio gear. Weighed just on a ton, and tip-stalled at anything under mach 2.

My A$0.02 1. Carlson Aircraft Sparrow Sport Special (for .25 engine) 2. Airco DH5 bipe (for 150w electric) 3. Airtruk (for .40 engine) Great thread!

I'm 55 years old, started building kits at about 12 off and on, then took it more seriously 8-9 years ago. I've built around 30 models since then, about half from kits, half from plans, and a few own designs. I've 3 RTFs in that time, only one of which I was happy with - Headwind B electric. My previous club had an average of mid to late 30's, the current club is probably 20 yrs older on average but has many more builders, and many less RTF models.

Many thanks John. I found the Flying Models site and their plan list. I'll order the plan from them.

I'm looking for pics and/or a plan for the Luton Buzzard. I have the Ord Hume book that has a small 3-view and a picture of each of the two marks but that's all.

July issue!?!? The shops here down under have only just got the May issue. The Bushwhacker looks like fun BTW. Now I know that we in the colonies are a little behind the times, except when it comes to cricket of course, but two months is ridiculous. So my question is how much faster would I get a subscription issue here in Oz?

1. About 20% electric models 2. About 50% flying time, because I can take an electric to a local sports oval but IC has to go a club-field 20 mins away 3. Adds a new dimension 4. I'd prefer more IC in the mag.

Great thread! I've just started my Flair Cub kit that's been sitting on the shelf for a while. Engine will be an OS40FS if it fits. Covering probably Koverall, dope and paint.

14' by 10' tin shed. Some space taken up by previous valve electronics hobby, but mostly aeromodelling space. Too many kits, drill press, power tools, too many unfinished projects, 1/2" of balsa shaving on the floor, old dresser full of engines, workbench covered in 'stuff' with drawers of r/c gear, more shelves with containers of wheels, undercarts, tanks, spinners, control-line stuff, models hanging from the walls, racks of wings, central building bench made from a sewing table on wheels with caneite top for pins, not enough lighting and what there is is too close to my personal solar panel. Get the picture? :-) Need to get in there at least once a week to stay in the same suburb as sane.

My 3 picks: Bonanza, Magister, Avro 504 Thanks for asking :-)

Running down like it's out of fuel, plus black exhaust, sounds over compressed. I would try turning the compression back a quarter turn just after it starts. Generally you can 'balance' the compression screw between under-compressed, which is an intermittent burping run, and over-compressed which sounds laboured and it would tend to run down like yours does. You want to aim for only just smoother than the over-compressed run. I would leave the needle for the moment and concentrate on the comp screw first. Diesels aren't usually as sensitive to needle setting as glow engines. As Mike Rolls says above, try and get it to run on a prime while getting the comp. right, then open the needle valve.