Danny Fenton
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Everything posted by Danny Fenton
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Hi Rob, I used RealityCraft PlaneMaster as as it came with a USB controller, which saves you using and wearing out, your own Tx. I did try FMS and even on my fairly rapid PC the control response was too slow, not like the real thing at all. PlaneMaster I feel is more immediate. There are many free planes with FMS but at the end of the day do you want to fly lots of different models or do you want to get your "A" and fly real ones? Your point about losing your bearings is a common one with nearly all the sims. I eventually knew the scenery so well, I knew when I saw this particular tree I could turn on to finals, but to do this you must always fly from the same place within the sim. I used to have the sim loaded on a machine 24 x 7 and whenever I made a cup of tea I would do a circuit, I did this for several weeks. And passed the "A" pretty rapidly, but bear in mind I had flown a fair bit when I last was modelling 25 years ago.
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We are very fortunate at our club there are always several instructors around and getting my "A" was not to bad. I had flown many years before and thanks to modern flight simulators (a modern marvel)was straight back into the groove. I am a bit dissapointed that I am not able to do my "B" as it seems there is a rule that says I have to wait 6 months from the "A". Sensible perhaps if you were new to the hobby, but not so if you have a fair bit of experience and are getting back into the scene. Even more silly is that I apparently could have gone straight for my "B" The best thing I can suggest Rob is a simulator, that way your instructor time on the field can be utilised more beneficially flying rather than learning left from right.
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Hi David thanks for that,none of the main suppliers including BRC list the 6 cell connectors. the largest they cater for is 4 cell (5 wire)I have found the 6 cell males and ordered some from China but the females are proving difficult.
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Does anybody know where I can get male and female 6 cell (7 wire) JST balancing connectors?
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Hi Peter the pics have gone live in the gallery. http://www.modelflying.co.uk/gallery/image.asp?sp=&v=5&uabn=218&uin=584 I think you can just about make out the 1/4 ply plate that carries the 4mm motor mounting studding. It has holes that locate over the IC motor mount holes. This means I can swap between the two in a matter of minutes. Any questions let me know??
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Hi Peter I have put some pics in an album, if it worked LOL the album is titled Dannys models, it may take a little while for the pics to be authorised, as its after 5pm maybe a long while lol.
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Hi Peter, yes I have a flight power pack, doesn't deliver the C rating specified at all! I buy chinese ones now, $12 for a 1300 mah 30C and they work fine. Only use the lipos for up to 50" models though then the A123's come into there own. They are heavier than Lipos, but can deliver up to 120A (contrary to what you may read about these nano phosphate cells) I will try and take some pics the next time the Wot 4 cowling is off so you can see. As they say a picture IS worth a thousand words LOL
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Hi Peter glad you found it interesting LOL We are organising a power fun fly later this month GreenacresMAC.co.uk and if I want to fly IC will need to get some fuel, I would like to try Prosynth, may try and get some at Weston Park. The wot 4 is my only "smelly" model The conversion of the wot 4 has some hidden neat bits, the motor is mounted on lengths of studding attached to a ply mount, the mount itself has the same size holes as for the IC motor mount. undo four allen bolts, take the motor and mount off as one, bolt the IC mount back on and away you go. I have even left the throttle servo and snake in position. All that remains is to put the fuel tank in and remember to take the cells out! Sorry to hear about your arival and subsequent loss of undercarriage, puffy lipos, don't get that with A123 they are nigh on indestructible!
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Hi Peter, The engine came back from Just Engines with the comment there is nothing wrong. I guess the end play in the big end is normal. The bad vibration at low revs was put down to the low end mixture being way too lean, which I do not understand as it would idle fine and pick up cleanly. I will try a different fuel as that is the common denominator. If I can be bothered to return to IC engines at all. as for the Wot 4 it is transformed, you really cannot tell it is electric powered, it flies really well and is 1/2 lb lighter. I am using an 800 watt motor driving a 13 x 6.5 prop running on 6 x A123 cells. So far it peaks at about 40 amps but averages 10. The wot 4 is so slippery it flies on just third throttle, only needing more power for big loops and vertical manouvres. So far I limit flights to 8 minutes, but this is only draining 1400 mah of the 2300 pack. If you are considering this path go for it. A123 are charged using a cheap home design charger at 10 amps. Fully recharged after just 10-15 minutes in the plane, A123 don't explode LOL Here is the maiden flight, sorry for the file size and the idle chatter between my wife and I. Gives an idea of what can be achieved. Have had half a dozen flights since this was shot. http://media.putfile.com/First-flight-electric-conversion-Wot-4
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I really don't want to put you off the Taylor Hurricane, but there are a lot of stringers around the back end of the fuselage. Its not a difficult build but there is a bit to it. There are several forum threads on the BT Hurricane that will help with advice and pictures. I am currently building a scaled down BT Hurricane to 75% for a 600 watt electric setup, scaling and cutting out the formers/bulkheads is taking forever LOL let us know what you finaly go for
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I hope RCM&E will forgive me showing a link to the Air Loisers prototypes 40 and 60 sized. They are also marketted as VQ in the States http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5883070/anchors_5925730/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#5925730
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Hi Graham, Bob Holman does an excellent set of laser cut parts for the Brian Taylor Hurricane plan, saves a lot of work. If you really are after ARTF then as Jonathan says Air Loisers is the only one I have seen, and I am pretty sure it isn't availoable yet
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It sounds to me like the motor should be mounted with more down-thrust
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Well done Clarky and congrats, "B" next?
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Hi Peter, finally cured the wot 4 of engine malladies, fitted an 800 watt leccy motor, no more deadsticks!
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Cured the engine problems in my WOT 4, fitted an 800 watt electric motor and 6 x A123 cells - no more deadsticks for me :)
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Hi Matthew I used RC PLaneMaster by Realitycraft which is available from most good model shops, I know Clive at the Model Factory in Stonnal (Midlands) has loads in stock both mode 1 and 2. There are many on the market, even some free ones. There are several threads on this site extolling the virtues of each. Have a rummage, if you are still struggling let me know
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I have ALWAYS used the fuel specified by JE because of the forum, and people having trouble. I use Model Technics GX-5 which contains 20% castor, it is the recomended fuel. I never even tried a tank full of anything else. I am sure Jenny will sort out the problem
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Hi Guys still no joy with the 57, the big end has gone the same way as others have mentioned, and a massive knocking developed. The engine is on its way back to Jenny and her team. I am dissapointed as the engine looks good and definitely has oodles of power. I so want them to be succesful because the work so hard for the customers. But at the end of the day I am not getting any flying in. I will let you know the outcome
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Welcome Matthew, and yes the package you are looking at does give good value, let us know how it goes?
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Oooo now thats nice, but Christmas is so far off :)
