Poppy Ann Lynagh-Smith

For me any giant scale "at or above 3 meters wing span" high wing plane that flies slow and is easy to handle in the air that can take a 35cc petrol engine or above also it should have removable wings for transport that are easy to fit and remove unlike several that have the screws to attach the wing that you can only reach by trying to get you hand inside the model via the door with the screws resting on the top and that are almost impossible to reach with a adult hand.

Hi, I have just recently returned to the hobby and at the start I was overcome by the amount of different systems that are around when I was last in the hobby we all used 27MHz band radios now from what i read most people are using 2.4 GHz and it seams like each manufacture uses a different system for the transmitting protocol how about a article about the different protocols and which receivers work with which transmitters. I recently came across a problem when i purchased a new receiver from FrSky a L9R long range and when i tried to use it with my transmitter a 9XR Pro with a FrSky DJT telemetry module which i have used with a few FrSky X8R receivers with great success and when i saw the long range receiver i naturally thought that it would work with it being from the same manufacture but not so so a article on the different protocols would be great. Regards Poppy Ann.

Posted by Lima Hotel Foxtrot on 23/03/2015 18:23:22: Posted by Wingman on 11/03/2015 13:53:28: Sorry TK I don't agree - It's a model magazine and they shouldn't waste content or pad it out with full size stuff - you can get that from specialist magazines like Aeroplane Monthly or FlyPast . By that logic, considering that the name of the publication is "Radio Controlled Model and Electronics" why not ask where the articles on model cars, lorries, boats, hovercraft, tanks and robots are, along with all the articles on DIY and ready made electronics are. Or would that be wasteful content that you don't want in the magazine you choose to buy? I use to buy this magazine many years ago when it use to always carry a story on electrics along with story's on other types of radio control models including cars boats etc but as like other magazines this has become a single specialised magazine for RC planes may be it is time to return to more of a general interest or at least add a story or two on RC electronics which should interest most RC model builders I know i would be interested in the electronics side of the hobby or a story about programing the transmitters we all like to use. Regards Poppy Ann.

Hi again, I only just noticed the posts on different prices charged to different people and that it is due to the silly discounts they give to different people one other thing to always check is the different prices charged in the different warehouses i recently bought one of their 2600 FPV gliders (https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__55602__2600FPV_Glider_EPO_2600mm_PNF_EU_Warehouse_.html) in the UK warehouse it was priced at $230 plus shipping, in the EU warehouse it was priced at $193 plus shipping i forgot what it was priced t in the international warehouse, in the end i bought it from the EU warehouse and it only cost $207 including shipping so it turned out cheaper from the EU warehouse with shipping than the price in the UK warehouse without shipping so it is worth spending a little time trying to work out the different costs from the different warehouses, what I do it open separate "private" browsers and place the order in all of them up until you pay that way you get the total cost with shipping from each place (make suer you do not hit pay now) Regards Poppy Ann.

Hi Richard, I have been using Hobbyking for the last couple of years and have never been charged anything like the rate you were quoted even when ordering from their international warehouse the only thing that was a shock was the price that their preferred shipper charges to pay the vat on your behalf as they have charged me almost 30% of the cost of the order just to pay the vat on your behalf and the 30% does not include the vat itself, I have found out that if you use DHL as the shipper that 1 you get your order faster, 2 they do not hold your order until you have paid them the vat and 3 they only charge you what the vat is and nothing extra for "paying it on your behalf" so as long as your order is not something huge it is much better to use the "expensive" shipper as it costs much less in the end. Regards Poppy Ann.

Posted by Dai Fledermaus on 19/12/2014 16:03:08: As a callow youth, I seem to remember having no problems soldering fuel tanks together from galvanized tin plate for some of my control line models, but at the moment I can't seem to keep my soldering iron clean enough for more than a minute or two to solder some undercarriage legs together. I've bought and tried various paste type flux, but the copper tip of my 70watt iron soon goes black, so I have to stop, let it cool and clean it up again to a bright copper finish only for the same thing to happen again. Time consuming and very frustrating. The only flux I haven't tried is Bakers Fluid, only because I can't buy it locally. Could this be the answer? Hi Dai, it sounds like you have the iron set to high if the tip turns black quickly after cleaning and tinning it, you mentioned you use to solder "galvanized Tin plate" it is either galvanised or tin not both, galvanised is coated in zink and tin is coated with ti. if it was tin plate then it is easy to solder but Galvanized plate is harder, a thing to watch out for is the fumes that come off Galvanized plate are not good to breath so try not to end up breathing them. It is much easier to use bakers fluid to solder plate items than to use cored solder but always remember to remove all the flux after you finish soldering, the best way is with warm water for most people. I know you are meant to wash it off with an acid but for most of us we do not like to keep acid around the home and water removes almost all of it good luck with your project, Regards Poppy Ann.