Bravedan

Or........fly a Helicopter, they don't need runways. Or a H9 Tango, Cougar 2000 or Fusion, neither do they!! Our strip has mature trees both ends, dips away one end, and after the annual rolling is as fast as an ice rink. You adapt.............

Excellent, best with beef dripping on coal fire toasted bread.................YUMMY!! Can we have a Thread on Wrights Coal Tar Soap now..................

OK, a few comments about Helicopters, my ideas, feel free to shoot down........or even support.............   EP (250 and above)  One club I have been to insists on the battery connection being made on the pilots line "for safety in the pits and while carrying". This forces people to be grovelling on the ground connecting batteries, then refixing canopies over them etc, etc, while transmitters sit in the mud, being kicked, trod on, etc, etc. IMO this is MORE dangerous than almost all practical alternatives!   It is easily possible to have, like with IC power, a "Throttle Hold" switch which prevents power from reaching the motor if thrown. From experience a surprising number of EP Heli Pilots do not have one set up!! IMO this should be a Club rule and enforced without exception. (AND I follow this for EP planes, too)  Since it's not possible to hold the rotor head while connecting the battery unless you were born with three hands, operating the "Hold" switch before starting the battery connection process and only releasing it after finally rechecking the head action before take off out on the patch effectively eliminates any chance of an inadvertent spin up.  You do have to be careful HOW this is programmed though, as on one Tx the way the switch mix operated by default cut power only if applied when the throttle was already off, i.e. it did not "master" the throttle, even if up by only one still immobile notch and seemingly therefore inactive! TEST your setup before it tests YOU!!!   IC Given that 99.9% of Heli's have a remote glow connection anyway, this should be arranged such that the engine start connection does not need a hand "attached" to maintain it, i.e. a clamp type connection with remote battery. Much easier with Heli's than with some planes to arrange this. Then one hand holds the rotor head and pushes the Heli down to firm the feet against rotation while the other works the starter with wand. The starter wand interferes with the rotor head sweep, and should be used IMO with the wand almost rubbing the head against the direction of rotation such that it being there stops the head even moving a few degrees.  I fail to see why starter wands without a one way bearing are even allowed to be sold as IMO they add significant risk when disconnecting from a running engine.  The "Wand stuck into a rubber plane starter cone" idea is also grossly inadequate and prone to throwing off. Again, I'd ban them. IMO wands should be firmly clamped to the motor threads, not left free to fly off. Some designs here are quite inadequate!  Using a single starter for both Planes and Helis results in a risk from the largely inadequate weak push on pull off "force fit" as the sole means to stop it flying off, especially if not a one way bearing type. I would like to see only dedicated starters used.  Any reasonably well set up Heli engine will readily start and run set at idle, therefore the process of starting should be made with Throttle Hold ON, i.e. the throttle is held at idle. Throttle hold should only be released out on the patch or under controlled test conditions. IMO there is no valid excuse for having a "live" throttle unless the Heli is clamped to a test bench or out on the patch about to take off.  Finally, the clutch seems to be an ignored safety feature, and I have seen far too many poorly set so they drag badly with an idling engine. (Then people use live throttled up off idle starting to get the engine running!)  Opinions based on approaching 40 years of RC modelling and five years intensive use of RC Heli's, current fleet of 12, but Hey, I knowz nuzzin........What do YOU think??            

Posted by Alan C on 09/03/2011 20:31:50: so, it looks like its better for the foam guys, than the traditional wooden heads, fair enough, i always thought had no uses for us, Then maybe you have so far missed out...............buy a variable temperature gun that takes the smaller diameter sticks and experiment, you'll be surprised what it can do, and away from foam such as Depron and on wood you can crank up the temperature and that limits the stringing effect of premature cooling. Higher temperature equals thinner bead equals more strength as well. Being a resilient type joint even when cooled, it's really good around undercarriage strengthening and high impact stress areas

1. My definition........A slowfly propeller is designed to give thrust at low airspeeds, is usually paddle bladed, and low pitch, designed to give thrust at the low end of it's rev range.......used for funfly type outdoor and indoor planes......A "fast" propeller (more usually called "speed", etc) is designed to bite the air with minimal drag at high rpm for high thrust at the top end of it's effective rev range. (the preserve of flying wings, pylon, etc.)  2. Not in my opinion, as said, polythene sheet

Posted by Alan C on 05/03/2011 19:46:15: its not the flying, its the landing, strange hobby, if its too high for power flying, we go gliding, go figure it !!!! Unless we have a glider with a motor...............................

Given the very low cost of new basic but good quality servos, the answer is.........20 plus year old ones will be fine, just make sure YOU are the one standing under it at the time. And......Can I be there when you are explaining your reasoning to your insurers........ Boats and Cars, maybe........................ And yes I do still have all my Futaba "M" series in use............in cars.

More nitro has been suggested...................................... More than WHAT??!!

Slope Soarer here......we don't get 40mph plus often enough. Indoor Flyer here........will someone PLEASE shut that damn door!!!!!

Snopes commentary    Edited By Bravedan on 25/02/2011 16:15:30

So, from the air looked like a skim of wetness, hence wheels.............but tide higher than it looked???

Since one half of the "they" is a relatively (to the ASW being filmed) small and light FPV equipped pusher powered RC flying wing, it isn't quite what it might at first seem...................... Bit like real world Swifts I have watched chasing after Buzzards.........

Yawn, another Warbird...............and another one already done to death.............Oh well, saved me buying the mag....................   Posted by Tony Richardson on 14/02/2011 00:43:16: If possible Could you please make it big enough to accept the Saito 90 Radial, that would add a little more realistic sound I think Just a thought, can we have it small enough for Indoor Flying?...................   

Posted by Erfolg on 27/01/2011 18:21:33: An obvious question following on from your description of how to set to" high power", how do you reset to "low power"?   It's a toggle.......do it again.............    To set fail safe on the Rx get it up and working to the Tx, Tx failsafe "off" (Norm on a 6EX). Set all the controls where you want (I usually set my slopers to be full up elevator, power to be no throttle, as all I'm doing is ensuring that any crash will be "IN FIELD") and press the only button there is very briefly. The LED will flash green once. Fail Safe Set!!! Test and enjoy.... I think these Rx are GREAT!! Have seven in use now, two Orange, rest FRSky. Two more about to go into planes.  The FRSky cased ones are IMO better than the Orange one as the case does not cramp the Ch 1 plug and has polarisation slots, but is marginally larger.   Edited By Bravedan on 28/01/2011 06:49:38

Posted by Erfolg on 27/01/2011 13:16:20: JC   The fail-safe mode is the last item in the program list, when only using mode key.   It is normally set at 20%. Either on or off. Which is switched on or off with the data input lever. It is has two settings NRL (normal) or OFF.   It is when I switch off that the servos start twitching. I guess I am either misinterpreting the instructions or doing something wrong. I have left the setting at NRL, as all seems well in this condition.   Sorry, but no it doesn't. The plus/minus switch switches the small indicator between NOR and F/S (not OFF).  NOR IS OFF!!!!! Switched to F/S you then get the percentage, which is variable, set by the throttle setting when you engage F/S.  For FRSKy you use NOR, i.e. no Tx Fail Safe set!!!!