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Mike Blandford

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Everything posted by Mike Blandford

  1. Mike Blandford
    The following transmitters work with this: Flysky/Turnigy 9X running er9x. Flysky/Turnigy 9X upgraded with 9Xtreme board running ersky9x. Flysky/Turnigy 9X upgraded with AR9X (or SKY) board running either ersky9x or openTx. Turnigy 9XR-PRO. FrSky Taranis/TaranisPlus/QX7/X9E/Horus running either ersky9x or openTx. Bangood offer a case for it. I have mounted one in a FrSky DJT case (obtained from T9HobbySport). If you look at the third picture on the web page, you will see it comes with an antenna. The latency is no worse than the transmitters it replaces. It uses the same "over the air" protocol, so matches the performance, and, in serial mode, the servo data is updated every 7mS. As long as you do a proper range check before flying anything, there is no reason to doubt it would be OK with larger models. Mike.
  2. Mike Blandford
    This is an "open source" project, read about it here: **LINK**. That module has been available from bangood for some time. Note that it is based on an Atmel AVR processor and not all possible protocols can be included at the same time. There is a version that uses a STM processor, with more flash memory, that does support all possible protocols. When used in serial mode, these are supported by the open source firmware for transmitters (ersky9x/er9x and openTx). To be able to use these fully, you will likely need to update the firmware on the module. This will need you to install the Arduino development software, download the source code and build the required firmware, then flash it to the module. Initially, this will require a programmer (USBASP or similar) and the addition of a programming header to the module. Should you then flash a (specific) bootloader, and use ersky9x firmware on your Tx, you would be able to flash the module "in situ" from the Tx. Mike.
  3. Mike Blandford
    Regarding a fabric finish, this depends on how much heavier it might be. I reckon every gram added to the tail is likely to mean 3-4 grams of nose weight being needed, so saving 10 grams at the back could easily mean the model being 50 grams (2 ounces) lighter. The tailplane, with elevators, currently weighs 37 grams and the fin/rudder is 19 grams. When I added the balsa block at the tail of the fuselage, I hollowed it out to save a bit of weight. I'm looking at all options to save weight at the tail. For example, do the 1/8th balsa sides need to be solid all the way to the tail, or would they stand for some lightening holes in them? Maybe it would only save a couple of grams, but with perhaps a couple saved by hollowing the block, I would get 4 grams saved, meaning 16 more saved in the nose. This all adds up to a tidy weight saving. Mike.
  4. Mike Blandford
    Well I've been (slowly) progressing my build, I have the basic fuselage put together, then I moved on to the tail. Hopefully, I'm keeping this light. I've kept to the "oversize" size. I started with the raw slabs, cut out the centre, fitted ribs and capstrips, and then capped the slabs outside the capstrips before sanding to profile. I'm using pin hinges. I may need to do a bit more sanding before I cover it all, but this is what it looks like so far: I intend to use iron on film, then a coat of "Prymol" then paint it! I shall, as usual, seal the balsa with a coat of (thinned) sanding sealer first as this provides a very good surface for the film to stick on. Mike.
  5. Mike Blandford

    Mike Blandford posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  6. Mike Blandford
    I thought I was missing something for the cockpit area (this venereed foam part). I found it inside the cowling in the box. Mike.
  7. Mike Blandford
    I thought that, but, if I understand correctly, the rear (non-veneered) foam deck butts up to a piece of foam that is veneered. If these pieces are mounted on the plain foam, they protrude outside the veneer of the piece in front. Mike.
  8. Mike Blandford
    What, exactly, does one do with the parts labelled "rear cockpit fairing" (the ply with the 'D' cutout)? From the plan, they look as though they should fit behind the veneered foam piece at the rear of the cockpit, but they would then fit outside the rear foam decking and stick out. Sholud they be inset into the rear foam decking? Mike.
  9. Mike Blandford
    I believe the 10% utilisation also includes reducing the power, so if you transmit continuously, but only at a tenth of full power, then you still meet the 10% media utilisation. It is likely that FrSky D8 receivers comply with the 10% as they only transmit telemetry data every third or fourth (can't remember which) received packet, so their utilisation is quite low. Mike.
  10. Mike Blandford
    Definitely no lug in my kit, but 2 bolts and 2 captive nuts, I just checked it again. Probably moving the bolt(s) more than half an inch forward will foul the back of the radiator. Mike.
  11. Mike Blandford
    I notice the instructions indicate a "lug" for a single wing bolt. My kit has no lug, but does have TWO wing bolts with captive nuts. I assume we need to drill a couple of holes in the half inch square piece for the bolts to go through to the nuts, rather than a single bolt on the centre line. I do have a "square box" fuselage and the wing centre section with leading and trailing edges attached now. I've drilled a hole for the front wing dowel and got that ready to glue in. The instructions also say put the wing bolts 295mm back from the leading edge. This seems very close to the trailing edge to me, any reason not to have them a bit further forward where the wing is thicker (about an inch say)? Mike.
  12. Mike Blandford
    The receiver measures analog voltages using a reference voltage of 3.3V, so the analog number varies from 0 at 0V to a maximum value (1023 or 4095) at 3.3V. This number is converted back to a voltage in the transmitter. To measure higher voltages than 3.3V, a pair of resistors is used to divide the voltage so the result is in the range 0 to 3.3V. In the case of the receiver voltage, the divider is a factor of 4. This means the maximum voltage you may measure is 4 times 3.3V, which is 13.2V. This is then the value you enter at in the transmitter so it is able to correctly convert the analog number to the actual voltage. Mike.
  13. Mike Blandford
    I measured with a vernier caliper so easy to see the measurements. I've glued a 1/32" balsa shim to the sides above the doubler so hopefully F2 and the crutch will fit fine. I've just realised that F2 and F3 are the same width, but F3 fits behind the doubler, so that may need a bit of "shimming" as well. I'm not complaining here, just highlighting small things that might catch others out. From the instructions, I thought the 1/2" square longerons were glued to the faces of the sides, but from the cross sections on the plan, and F3, it seems they fit underneath the sides, not that I've glued them yet! I'll be doing this electric, so I'll be trying to lighten the tail end as much as possible, and I'll be fitting flaps since they make a huge difference when landing. Mike.
  14. Mike Blandford
    I'm trying a bit of "parallel building" (Tempest and Hurricane at the same time!). This probably means both will take twice as long to complete! I've made a start on the fuselage and got the doublers glued on. I'm now looking at the central crutch, formers F2 and F3 and the sides. My F2 and F3 are 99.4mm wide, the crutch is 101.4mm wide. With the two doublers being 1.6mm each, total 3.2mm, I reckon F2 and F3 are too wide by 1.2mm. It looks like I'll need to shave 0.6mm off each side of F2 and F3. Or have I missed something? Mike.
  15. Mike Blandford
    Mine has just arrived as well. My problem is I have a BT Tempest in build (trying to re-design the wing to take retracts a t present), so I'm not sure when I'll get to start it. Mike.
  16. Mike Blandford

    S6r receiver

    Mike Blandford replied to trebor's topic in FrSky

    I just set it up on the bench (with a S8R). I changed the Tx mixer to send ELE on channel 1 and AIL on channel 2. Then, by adjusting the servo reverse on the S8R for AIL and ELE I got the auto-level operating correctly. Then by changing the channel reverse on the mixer channels I got the controls operating correctly. It is quite logical in the end. Mike.
  17. Mike Blandford

    S6r receiver

    Mike Blandford replied to trebor's topic in FrSky

    trebor: I don't think you will find it too complicated. You will always need to check the controls go in the correct direction, both from the Tx and for the stabilisation. The settings will depend on the mechanical linkage anyway. I'm fairly certain it will work. Mike.
  18. Mike Blandford

    S6r receiver

    Mike Blandford replied to trebor's topic in FrSky

    I've got this thought that mounting the Rx "sideways" will swap the AIL and ELE stabilisation/auto level. So, that may well mean you swap the servos between AIL and ELE and then it works OK. You need to try it, then go into auto-level mode, and move the wing around an see what the surfaces do. Reverse the settings for the two channels if necessary. You may need to swap the two channels on the Tx as well to get the correct control. Mike.   Edited By Mike Blandford on 01/04/2017 20:05:47
  19. Mike Blandford

    S6r receiver

    Mike Blandford replied to trebor's topic in FrSky

    If you mount the S6R with the antennas to the rear, then "hover" becomes "vertical dive to the ground". Mike.
  20. Mike Blandford

    S6r receiver

    Mike Blandford replied to trebor's topic in FrSky

    On the main mixer display, you should be able to select mixes and move them up and down to other channels. Press ENT to get the popup then select MOVE. Mike.
  21. Mike Blandford
    If you are in to using Arduinos, you may be interested in this: **LINK**. It takes the SBUS signal and provides 16 individual servo outputs. It includes options to swap the outputs of channels 1-8 and 9-16, and another to change to 8 channel only mode but with a servo update rate of 9mS for digital servos. Mike.
  22. Mike Blandford
    The full range module has 4 RF chips. There are two modes of operation, one is to use PPM to send to the module, then you select the chip/protocol using the rotary switch. This gives you 15 options. Using the Arduino IDE, you can build the firmware for the module so you may choose what the 15 options are. Alternatively, if your Tx supports it (er9x/ersky9x/openTx firmware), you may select "Multi" instead of PPM, then you get to choose from the radio menu which protocol you wish to use. There are now so many possible protocols, they don't all fit in the module, but you get many more than 15. You may still build the firmware to include the protocols you need. If you use ersky9x firmware, I've just added the ability to flash new firmware to the module from a file on the radio SD card. This feature may get added to openTx at some point. Mike.
  23. Mike Blandford
    Did you set the external protocol to PPM with 12 channels (making the frame longer as well - 31mS)? That is, of course, a short range module. Worth looking at the full range module: **LINK**. The firmware on this one is open source. Mike.
  24. Mike Blandford
    You want to be in bootloader mode, with the drives present. Then, on companion, just click on the "Write Firmware to Radio" button and select the firmware file to write. You might want to use the "Read Firmware from Radio" button first to make sure you have a copy of the firmware as it exists. Read Models and Backup radio probably both just read the EEPROM, not the firmware. Mike.
  25. Mike Blandford
    Wihtgar: Hold the two horizontal trims towards the centre then power on. If you get the bootloader then you don't need zadig, if it powers on normally then you do need zadig. trebor: You only need to consider updating your receivers if you update the XJT module firmware, which is a completely different operation to updating the firmware on the Taranis itself, whether you flash openTx or ersky9x. Mike.
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