Merco 61
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Everything posted by Merco 61
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Southerner and Slicker,Keil Kraft designs enlarged by Ben Buckle plans,about 84 inch span.Album added .First attempt,hope it works! Edited By Merco 61 on 26/11/2016 14:25:58 Edited By Merco 61 on 26/11/2016 14:28:52
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Mention is made of 10% oil,in straight methanol,for ST 2500 series.Is 10% synthetic the equivalent of 10% castor in all respects? My Tartan 22 glow instructions also specify 10% castor. I,ve asked this before.What is the exact synthetic oil specification and brand to safely use and who will send by post in UK?
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Hello, I seem to have amassed quite a collection of the larger (22-30cc) two-stroke glow engines which I want to put to proper use.For obvious reasons,I want to mix my own fuel.Sourcing methanol and castor appears straightforward,my problem is -which synthetic is (a) suitable (b) readily available from motor factors/motor bike shops.For the past few decades I,ve used only home brew based on Castrol M at 18% and my old 61two strokes are still as good as new.I,ve always tolerated the mess in the knowledge that the discharged excess oil has been doing a good job as a heat sink.My Castrol M is all gone sadly and no longer easily obtainable.I would appreciate the views of any other home-brewers. Cheers
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Installing throttle servo inside cowl.Any precautions needed?
Merco 61 replied to Merco 61's topic in IC Engines
Thanks to you all for your advice.Appreciated. -
Hello, I want to install the throttle servo within the cowl of my J3 Cub.Flat twin Saito fitted so the main sources of heat are out in the airflow and there are generous cut-outs for cooling.I have a 9g digital servo for the purpose and intend to mount it to the firewall,probably using silicon adhesive to help insulate against vibration Is this type of installation commonplace and are there any pitfalls to trap the unwary? Thanks.
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Mercury kit, Aeronca Sedan
Merco 61 replied to Erfolg's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
I built my first one circa 1961 as per plan,nylon covered,elaborate polyurethane finish,no attempt at keeping weight down,1.5 PAW.Flew free flight beautifully for several years.Power more than enough.Built a second to carry single channel-on rudder with second cascaded escapement to give throttle control but this time with a plain bearing 2.5 diesel.Far too much power,so always flown with engine under-compressed but again flew sedately and gracefully for many years.Little inset rudder gave plenty of authority.The UC would always swing rearwards upon landing, so the crude "stops" needed regular replacement.Construction is straightforward and provided the builder is au fait with trad techniques eg pre steaming stringers and hard longerons there are no particular difficulties.If the excessive dihedral offends,I suppose this could be reduced to allow dual aileron servos to be installed but then it would no longer be a Mercury Aeronca,would it? A modeller quite regularly flies a very nice example in the Bowden at the Nats,free flight of course but with an Oliver 3.5.I think he is brave. In my humble opinion,a first class British kit which can be built into a fine model of a very attractive American aeroplane.My pal regularly flies his 1960s example,with bearers arranged to accept a variety of diesels from 1.5 up to a 2cc ED Comp Special,just as a flying test-bed. In the air,it looks a lot bigger than it really is.Lovely.Real aeromodelling. -
Hello modellers,many thanks for your interest and suggestions. Sorry,my original post is confusing,my fault (again) To clarify: the silver paint has adhered well enough to epoxy/primer and looks good. The problem is persuading trim colour and fuel proofer to stick to the aluminium paint soundly,hence my mention of Prymol to act as an etch.I dont know the chemical constituent of Prymol but do know that it works well on bare metal eg spinners,litho panels.Obviously I want the etch coat to be colourless and transparent. I remember reading how the legendary scale master,David Vaughan had the same problem with that wonderful P51B Nats winner.He produced an immaculate sprayed silver finish on the underside and overcoated with a fuel proofer.The proofer promptly lifted off as a perfect shell. I dont know how he solved that one.Still think it was the best model I,ve ever seen. So,do I risk an application of Prymol prior to spraying Aerocoat/Spectrum or is there anything better.? To paraphrase Mick Reeves-"I,ve used every type of paint on the planet,they all cause their own problems"
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I,ve been building a P51 over last few years.By using cellulose Base Extra Bright Base Coat (automotive) variously tinted to give an impression of metal construction,I,m ready to overspray with Tufcote.However...................... I sprayed the nose with trim colour (cellulose) but when masking was removed,the paint had not adhered at all and mostly,peeled off,looking rather like Solarfilm. A lot of work has gone into surface detailing-burnt -in rivets,panel lines,stencilling,markings -all the usual-,so further rub down not really a welcome option.I suspect that the base coat is aluminium-rich and will inevitably be oxidised ie paint resistant. Fuel proofer is essential but I fear it will not bond properly.I am considering a light spray-over of Prymol prior to fuel proofer.Is there anything better out there in the trade?
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Hello Engine Doctor, Many thanks for the diagnosis.Quite sure you are absolutely right,all understood .Reassured that the engine can continue to be used. Good stuff,that bearing fit.Have used it with success on Moto Guzzi motor cycles,thereby saving a crankcase replacement.Lasted over 20 years. Worked well on a little Frog 2.49 diesel too where the outer race was actually rotating and polishing the surface of the housing. Sometimes we get lucky,eh?Thanks again.
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Thanks,Engine Doctor,that is about the best description of likely four stroke problems I have read. I was helping my buddy yesterday.He was operating an old Chinese 80 four stroke.Started easily,adjusted easily,bags of power apart from an occasional splutter at full power in flight,probably due to a very old plug.After landing,we noticed a very obvious amount of fore and aft play in the crankshaft,almost as if it should have had a spacer washer. No vertical or horizontal play detectable. He says the play only appears when engine is hot.Your opinion please.
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Thanks for thewords of welcome.Sorry about the breach of etiquette-should have explained that my log-in failed so had to re-register. I am happy to use the cheapest petrol available for the car and do understand the posts. I think the lawnmower man was honestly trying to warn of the possible consequences of leaving fuel in the tanks of small engine machines during winter layup,rather than mechanical damage to moving parts during normal use.A Walbro carb is a delicate device,no matter if mounted on a chainsaw or a big model aeroplane,isnt it ,so anything that might prevent deposits or corrosion forming is worth a look. I learned the hard way years ago when model four-strokes first arrived that you cannot go flying for the day and just prop the model against the wall and forget it until the next time.Recreational dismantling may seem fun but the rust on the ball races mixes well with the blood from the cuts to your fingers as you attempt to drift them out of a hot crankcase.I know that the best procedure is to pinch off the fuel supply whilst the engine is running at normal temperature,but this can be impossible if it is fully cowled.Even more difficult if you have just crashed! I took WOO,s advice.Pump out tank and then liberally flush out with a mix of petrol and transmission fluid,leave to drain naturally nose down. Now I discover that the rinse-out actually may be introducing water from atmosphere so looking for a better way. Edited By Merco 61 on 01/04/2015 00:49:13
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I,ve just collected my garden machinery (2 stroke and 4 stroke) from service.The man alarmed me.He told me that pump petrol now contains a high percentage of ethanol(alcohol) which,as we know,attracts water and has a detrimental effect on petrol itself and some engine components. He sold me an additive called Ethanol Shield.If,like me,you are fussy about the care and maintenence of model engines,both petrol 2 strokes and glow 4 strokes,you might find it interesting to Google the product and study the claimed benefits.If the product does what it says on the bottle,it sounds like the perfect after-run for 4 stroke glows. Apparently there are moves afoot to increase the ethanol percentage to 30% in pump petrol-supermarket grade-so perhaps we should take notice.
