Capt Kremen

How are you chaps fitting 5 & 6 cell LiPo packs into your Acro Wotties? Initially, I fitted the designated ply tray, (at the sloping angle), could only just squeeze a 4 cell pack in. Model flew but was very 'sluggish' to say the least. Subsequently managed to get a 5-cell LiPo in AND firmly secured with velcro straps. This required installing the battery before fitting the wing though. Have now removed the ply tray but the 5 cell packs still will not 'slide' in with wing on unless surgery to the rear of the g/f cowling is undertaken. AND that still leaves the fiddle of safely securing the pack once it's installed. So how does a 5 (or 6) pack go easily into a Wot? Photos would be useful if possible. Cheers. CK

Yes Bob, I fully recognize the two issues you raise, especially the second!!!! The 'ideal' and 'reality' of the majority of UK flying sites are very often poles apart. Having flown in Europe and the States on many occasions, it's an eye opener as to what facilities the model fliers of those lands regularly enjoy i.e. Superb Parking, Pits & Flight Lines not to mention permanent on site club house with full 'domestic' facilities. Meanwhile back here ... 'You can fly on the local rubbish tip Mon, Weds & Third Sunday of the month between 10 & 1' .... We can but dream of better conditions !!!

BMFA Handbook (2010 Edition) P22 diagrams 'R/C Power Flying Site Layout & Flight Patterns' anyone? Car Park to pits quote "at least 100m" .... The replies suggest many are possibly otherwise ?????

Erfolg, As one who was playing with 'electrickery' in its model flight infancy, there are/were some classic electric motors! Geist, Unger, Faulhaber even (at a bit of a stretch), Astro. Heavy 'paperweights' now as probably they were then with those lumps of batteries to power them called NiCads!

Just going through my plans collection and found the 'Trueline Corsair' - fond memories of a superb flier. It was so good, mine flew out of sight thanks to the effect of high powered 27Mhz CB rigs of the time and their interference with my Futaba 'M' radio! Does anyone have a copy of the model magazine adverts for the 'Corsair'? If memory serves me correctly, it was always a black & white line illustration, (i.e. not an actual photo of the model). What span was the 'Corsair'? (None shown on the plan, so I guess approx. 52"???). Otherwise, there's enough detail on the Trueline plan to extrapolate and build a replica. Here's hoping someone can help, thanks. CK.

Everyone so far ... YES, you are all quoting the (exact) texts that I'm reading from too but just where is the document entitled 'Operational Guide, All Models and Radio Control' that keeps being referred to? If it is not a specific stand-alone document, then why is it inferred as such? I can easily find lots of sentences & paragraphs within the BMFA Handbook, CAP658 and 'A'/'B' Test literature on the best practice on how to operate an Aircraft/Glider/Helicopter/Small Unmanned Aircraft (SUA) etc. Similarly, paragraphs & sentences on the best practice for operating ones Radio Control Tx/Rx etc.

Mmm ... yes I've got that, been there but there's no specific document / chapter (I can find), entitled ' Operational Guide, All Models and Radio Control'. (If it's there it's doing a great job hiding from me!) And ... Yes, I have been reading CAP658, 'A Flying Start', The 'A' & 'B' R/C Achievement Scheme documents and of course the 'wonderful' BMFA Handbook!

I'm seeking an elusive (to me), BMFA study document for the A, B, R/C Achievement Scheme. OK, I'm only a humble end user but I've typed 'Operational Guide, All Models and Radio Control' into the BMFA search box, Google search box AND RCM&E forum search box and get no direct link results. (I get a '404 page cannot display' on the RCM&E reply, nothing on BMFA web site and only quotes that users must study the above document on other sites but no actual links to it). Please someone kindly assist ....

The LMS 'Mainly Planes 'n Trains' in Gosport, Hampshire is up for (a quick) sale. Graham, the proprietor, is relocating. Hopefully someone will take it on or else it'll end up being being yet another phone/charity/kebab etc. (delete as appropriate) shop!!!

During the Winter months, my local club has monthly electric indoor sessions. These are held in a, (regular size 15m x 7m, at a guesstimate), local village hall. It has an open apex ceiling of reasonable height but not as unlimited as a sports hall. The majority of fliers bring along 'Mini' & 'Night-Vapor' type models and fly around in friendly circuits, enjoying a bit of fun when the hall lights are occasionally turned out! To bring a bit more variety to proceedings at a future session, good as they already are, we've decided to organise a bit of light-hearted fun by having a few challenges. Suggestions might include: How many 'Spot-landing or Touch-n-Go' in a minute, Negotiate a few 'Party Balloons' or large 'Hoops' etc. My request to the forum, do any other clubs have anything similar and what events have proven the most popular AND practical with basic rudder/elevator 'Vapor' type models AND 'Joe Average' model fliers? Above all it must be fun and allow fliers of modest abilities to at least have a go, so probably no 'Aresti' style indoor pattern sequences! Many thanks. Edited By Capt Kremen on 16/03/2017 11:49:34

Kept records of my flying back to when I started r/c in the 70s plus a few tissue panels from free-flight models of my youth. What never ceases to amaze me is the exaggeration of flights flown by fellows who don't keep a log of their aerial exploits. When you take account of the great British weather, personal opportunities, time spent yackkiing and not actually flying, it is a very dedicated flier that can truly clock up the 'hundreds' of flights many claim for a single model. That's assuming they are lucky too and don't suffer the odd prang. A bit like tall tales fisherman are alleged to tell of the whopper that got away!

Once again the advantage of this web site over the info available in the printed magazine shows its real value. (The recent item on video cams in RCM&E whilst OK, was typical of most magazine articles, lacking in lots of specific detail and I felt very generalized). I seek a camcorder not just for the occasional model flight recording but to (legally) capture musical performances indoors. Any recommendations for something discreet that can be placed up on a shelf or tucked away to point at the stage? i.e. Relies on Stage lighting to capture the image, needs a means to observe the field of view to set up AND how long will the storage cards record for at different quality settings? (This last item seems always missing in reviews).

Echoing what other learned contributors have said. I think the charger is No.1 suspect if your fellow fliers batteries perform perfectly in your plane with your radio/esc set-up. I left fully charged LiPos for a whole year, (stored in an outside, unheated garage). When personal circumstances then allowed a return to flying, no discernable issues found. The cells worked immediately and were able to be fully balance recharged. (Some packs were 6 years old too!) Yes, in ideal circumstances 'storage' voltage would be best but how many of us (a) use up all our fully charged flight packs in a session (b) have time to then fully recharge all their packs when the weather window of opportunity presents itself. Only one thought not mentioned but doesn't apply anyway! Sometimes ESC/Speed Controllers are not operating through their full range i.e. full throttle on the transmitter is not at the full extent of the esc range = low power output.

With the mess that HK have made of their web site, which of the multitude of glues available do folk use on Multiplex Elapor? I have used CA in the past including the MPX own brand glue it really irritates nose and throat despite being used outdoors. UHU POR or similar is not strong enough for securing the carbon rod wing reinforcements and things like horns.

Agree with GLs earlier post, thorough independant testing should be done of servos, radio gear, models etc. by our model magazines. Doubt they will though, too much advertising revenue at stake, most, (not all!), reviews are little more than the manufacturers PR copy recycled. And the publishers wonder why there are so many unsold copies left on the shelf at the end of the month.

Have taken models by air to the States & Germany several times. These were packed in copious layers of bubble wrap and placed inside a 'home-made' ply box. Touch (balsa) wood, no damage despite the best efforts of airline/baggage handler staff belonging to various domestic and overseas airlines. Word of caution - The, to us modellers, innocuous items like single edge razor blades, modelling knives, glues and of course any batteries, ring alarm bells and you can expect extra time being scanned and all packaging possibly taken apart and thoroughly searched. All your careful efforts to pack protectively may be to no avail if they decide they want to see what's inside the 'box', packet etc.!!! Also, In the States, my BMFA membership cut no ice with the guys running the Tx compound either. I had to take out temporary AMA membership AND use a local residents Tx too, they would not accept a US module in my Tx.

Any suggestions as to where I can purchase some of that very thin & light weight 'Velcro' type stuff that is used to secure the mini single cell batteries to the likes of ParkZone Mini & Night Vapor models? Just bought some new cells for the winter indoor season and need some to attach the cells securely. (Went in HobbyCraft and they only sell the thicker, regular varieties of Hook & Felt). Any other practical suggestions welcomed too. Thanks.

Sorting through my 'collection' of plans I came across one for the 'True Line Corsair, Advanced Trainer'. I remember the model flying well, very well. In fact it flew off 'free-flight' fashion under the influence of CB radio interference in the days of 27Mhz! (Circa 1971-2) So, I have the plan and fancy recreating it ... however ... The plan only gives a side fuselage view and surprisingly no dimensions as to wingspan. Does anyone have an old RCM&E or Radio Modeler mag with an advert for it perhaps that gives the elusive size? It's a shoulder wing constant chord of, (from memory), 45 - 50" span I think. Thanks.

I'm building the new 'Retro RC-340' from RBC Kits. (See Picture in the latest RCM&E 'Counter-Point' I was attracted to it because it reminds me very much of the MK 'Curare' I had so much pleasure and enjoyment with back in the late 70s. So to my question ... I require some electric retracts for this 1.45m span model (built up balsa skinned wing). I've not had occasion to buy a set for many a year. What currently available trike sets would folk recommend? For example, looking at the HK site, I'm a little bewildered as to which might be best/most durable and above all practical for flying off a smooth but nevertheless grass field flying site. Should Oleo types be considered to soak up some of the inevitable bumps? Should a separate power pack be used for the U/C and if so what type/size? The model is designed for a 4 - 5 cell LiPo motor power pack. Any other tips most welcome. Thanks

I have both 'Discovery' & the 'Riot'. As a consistent durable performer, the 'Disco' wins hands down for me everytime. They both have their 'issues' but none are too serious or cannot be easily rectified e.g. Very small wheels and 'soft metal' bolts used as axles on both, may prove troublesome on long grass fields(?). The battery compartment on the Riot can pop open after regular use due plastic latch fatigue. Original Servos (both models), are functional rather than quality and durable. I re-motored my Disco and made the cowl a screw attached one. This for easy access as the steerable nose leg assembly takes a pounding and the original was replaced. OK, so I replaced or fitted quite a few items (over time), but both models are still flying and giving good service. I have logged hundreds of flights with my Disco including training others, and am now approaching 150 on the Riot too.

Getting back into 'traditional' building after an enforced break, I'm seeking the following: From memory, an American product that consists of a 'soft elastic type plastic' sprue retaining tiny little black circles. These circular pieces are removed from the sprue. They feature a tiny hole in them such that when a thin model pin is inserted, this can be pushed to any depth released and it stays in place. It very effectively 'clamps' balsa strip/ribs etc in place while the glue sets. I vaguely recall one of our leading free-flight suppliers i.e. SAMS, Flitehook etc. having them but can find no trace on their sites and now years later, I'm not sure what they are actually called to get some more! Thanks for any help.

Thanks WolstonFlyer, I'll give it a try. I'm assuming the MP3s are fed through this program prior to uploading to my iPod. (I have a huge music library so that will be a day and some task to 'equalise' then re-load onto the iPlod) I wish there was a reasonable MP3 player available that would allow me to ditch the iPod. All the MP3 players are either extremely expensive e.g. up market Cowan or else have issues with switching themselves off and then my speakers howl with protest at loss of input signal e.g. the Sony Walkman player which I've tried. Is it too much to ask for a MP3 player that will play tunes at approx same volume and allow you to 'pause' playback (e.g. to answer the phone), without 'going-to-sleep' and then my speakers let me know with a loud hum.

I am a subscriber to Napster, (other streaming music sites are available!), and download a selection of my favorite artists to play on my iPod whilst I'm balsa bashing 'n building models. On playback the tunes generally are about the same sound level however some tracks are not. I have been into the settings on the iPod and selected the 'equaliser' setting but this seems to make little, if any difference. Is this a ploy by Apple to get me to buy all my tracks only from the Apple Store(?) Any users out there that can suggest a practical solution? ALL the tracks play perfectly well and at approx. the same sound level on the PC prior to transfer via (IMHO awful) iTunes. I visited my local Apple store and they were as useful as a chocolate teapot, probably because I wasn't buying their latest shiny product! It is very annoying as usually I'm just in the middle of glueing a delicate part and 'boom' the volume either goes too loud or else 'disapears' Grrr ... rrrrr

Last year due personal circumstances and not least rubbish weather co-inciding with the rare times I was able to fly, my LiPo remained untouched but in a fully charged state. This year, I expected a lot of 'duff' packs and expense buying replacements before I flew. 'Touch-wood' etc ... I've made best use of the good weather days and opportunities to fly. So far, no apparent issues. OK, I'm not flying many high current EDF or other pack straining types of model which might put the packs to ultimate test but they are giving me the same flight times and performance as in previous years, I date my packs and some are now 5 years old and still giving good service. In previous years, I always 'storage charged' packs, balanced and generally gave them the utmost attention. Without doing anything 'silly' and keeping to the prudent safety practices of use, for a 'general sport flier' such as i consider myself, it seems LiPo are quite forgiving of being 'forgotton' for a while!

In order to acquire the essential 'Brownie Points' to go flying I, like many of us I perhaps, are required to get out the decorating gear and 'do' the living room, kitchen, hall, spare room etc. etc. from time to time. Such a request from SHMBO, required the rejuvenation of our 'long-term lodgers' (son's) room now he's recently departed the home hotel. So to painting. I usually use Dulux gloss white but the last couple of occasions I have been disappointed. I am aware the certain (paint) industry standards have changed but have they resulted in better product for the average Joe home decorator? The oil(?) gloss white paints soon seem to 'yellow' but does dry to a smooth finish after a smelly few days. The current water cleanable variety, whilst being odour free and quick drying, seems to result in a brush mottled surface however skill-full and deft your brush work is. (I do use quality brushes, well they're not cheap!). Not withstanding the obvious paint tin label descriptions i.e. 'Bathroom' paint, 'Kitchen' paint, exterior/interior there seem to be several 'wood interior' paints on offer. Which to chose for the best? What do others of you find works? All I want is a long lasting colour stable, gloss white finish on wood which I, as an occasional decorator, can apply without to much hassle, fumes, cleaning issues etc.