Erfolg

I used it again yesterday, your are right it is called ZAP-O. Erfolg

I have written a similiar thread previously, and received no replies. I am hoping with all the new members, things could well be different. I have a number of folding propeller assemblies from  J Perkins, which worked well with brushed motors. The brushed motors would push out a breath taking 80 watts when new. How ever I now only use brushedless motors with lipo, typically these will deliver easily + 120 watts and much more. The blades of the JP will not stand this level of power, having shed 2 seperate blades, destroying the front of the model in both instances. Either as white or black blades. I have sucessfully used both Graupner and Aeronauht with these hubs. However I am wondering is there an alternative. Does any one know of an alternative to the above, which will take the stress arising with brushless motors. Regards Erfolg

I did One day a week, plus 2 nights to get my ONC for 2 years. Then 3 months od days plus 3 evenings of those days for 2 years to get my HNC. Followed by 3 years at university, plus working for the company out of term time. Part of the time I had to work nights, I always seemed to be knackered and worrying about failing an exam. I was payed a pittance during this time, when I qualified I found British Industries priority was cheap labour, not qualified (educated) staff. Many of my mates ended up working abroad or emigrating. But did I complain, I might have  . Erfolg

Last time I went to the USA I bought Pacer (I think), it was to build a kit I bought there, which needed non fuming cyno. The guy in the model shop told me that Pacer and I think Satellite City?, produced cyno with extended shelf life. Now believe it or not I am still using my Pacer (although the canopy cyno, went of), two years later (kept in fridge like every one else). Over three UK purchased cynos have turned to Gunk in that time (still kept in fridge). There does appear to be some substantial differences between some brands. By the way, the nozzle never clogs, it has a cap within a cap system. I will look very carefully at the type of cyno, that i next buy. Erfolg

And now, the end is near  And so to the final scapel cut My friends I will say it clear Ive told the tale of the Weiss Kaninchen Yes It is finished all but the replacement of an aileron servo, check the balance, wait for a good day. As they say "Once more into the ether, my friends". The rudervator linkage went well, see attached picture The motor is an inrunner as can be seen, it is located at the rear by a ring of ply, the mounting disc is a friction (transition fit, good old engineering term) and some removable stops to prevent forword movement. The finish to the body is just Humbrol paint sprayed on using a Badger airbrush/spray gun. It is translucent, as no undercoat has been applied, and the paint is very thinly applied. For a "Bits A" I am not prepared to spend any more time, until it is proven to be OK. The question is would I have done anything differently. The answer is, yes I would. Some of the features are not as good as they could be ie the push rods from bicycle spokes, carbon fibre would be better and that is before it has flown. There is an issue of balance, so nicads will be used, where as Lipos were planned, lighter back end needed. I still have an issue with the propeller before I can fly, at present it is a Perkins offering, the blades will have to be changed to Aeronauht or Graupner. Why blades are inadequate for Brushless power. Any way I intend posting a message on ther forum on this, to get hopefully more infomation, on alternatives.  Now it is time to decide what to do next, perhaps the Guillows P47 conversion or the Dehavilland Venom. Erfolg 

The generally accepted CAD package used in industry is AUTOCad. Some sites allow a free download. I think the Catnic site does this, although my attempts were not sucessful. Buying the full package was very expensive, circa £1000. I use AutoSketch from the same people, was £20. Probably a lot cheaper now, if still marketed. Same people Autodesk. Although not as powerful as AutoCad, you can still design models on it. I have never tried to import files, for example of aerofoil sections. You do need to convert the file from a skd format to dwg to get some of the high street printers to do a plot. Although at circa £20 for first plot, I do not bother except for house plans (Building Planning Department requirement). Erfolg  

Whilst pouring bricks, sawing concrete and laying timber in the new house extention. I have used a 230mm angle grinder from time to time. Whilst manipulating it, I have noticed that the gyroscopic effects can be quite noticable. Which set me wondering, how large are the gyroscopic effects with a propeller and motor rotor. I have never noticed them.Is it because the mass of propeller is quite small and the mass of the rotor is concentrated close to the axis of rotation. In other words small radius of gyration with low mass? Is there an academic out there, who can say? Also has Ian considered the use of gyroscopic forces to achieve, extreme movement, rather than using gyroscopic effects to maintain heading  Erfolg

The beauty of magneto ignition, total reliability. The total dependability of Lucas electrics. No wonder that Jap C*** never stood a chance. Had a Franny Barnet to, could not afford a proper 4 stroke bike. But does any one else think our friends problems could be Glow Plug related? Erfolg

Not being an expert on IC motors, but having had problems with them in the past. I will put forward a suggestion not related to icing. You could have a faulty glow plug, orthe plug you are using is not optimal for the conditions. My own experience (going back in time and reliant on memory), is that some motors need a hot plug type, in cold weather. That is the plug glows hotter under the ambient conditions (at that time), where as a cold plug does not get enough heat from the firing cycle and motor residual heat to keep it going.Others may have a different opinion, or tell you that may have been true or is a old wifes fable. I await the brick bats of the knowledgeable. Best to get a good brushless and lipo. Regards Erfolg

I am seeking help I am starting the process of building a new model. My problem, is that I cannot get my hands on the plan of the model i desire. The model is the "FROG, Witch". I have a plan of the FROG Witch 2 and a partial copy of a FRog Witch 1, from Peter Williams. I believe he is related to the "House of FROG". Unfortunatly these plans are not of the variant I wish to build, which is a Cabin style model. The plans I have are of a contest orientated model, semi-streamlined, minimised cross sectioned body. Has any one out there any details of the Witch (cabin) model, which would help me in my build? Erfolg  

I do agree for icing to take place there must be moisture, the relative humidity has to be greater than zero. At the "frost point" is where snow, ice is formed in the atmosphere. A rarely seen aspect of this is in the UK, is when we see frost forming on objects such as trees, walls etc. Where people are getting the idea that the air is dry because it is cold I do not. It is not dry, look at any "Humidity Charts" for many of the Alpine, Rockies sking locations. Drier than Bombay in the Moonsun sesion or Tasmania, but certinly not dry. A value of 60% was not that uncommon. Erfolg 

I to must congratulate you Timbo. I also have had concerns, regarding what is happening with my set up. In the past you have reassured me with your considered view of the results I have obtained. I am looking to purchase Imax B6 ,within the UK or a Foreign web (site where the postage costs are not to large). At present I am still debating the offering at BRC, you have previously mentioned, the JP Lipo plus, which is obviously a badge engineered rendition of the same thing. I am hoping that someone such as Giant Cod or Robotbirds (as they both organise their own local suppliers) will import and sell the Imax direct, missing out the handling/wholesaler roll of JP, thus achieve even keener prices. As to the alamists on some other sites, I would suggest they learn to understand the significance of the values obtained from their instruments, and what are normal functional accuracies, repeatability and performance. I am suspicious of those who claim their measuring instument are certified and calibrated (unless they are a large industruial organisation/research establishment). By whom. The National Physical Laboratory (NPL), if so when and what are the calibration results of their equipment. Did thet use a temperature controlled etc. workshop? Please keep us all informed, again, excellent work and iniative. Regards Erfolg

The other parts of Bernoulli to be considered would obviously be the crank case volume and pumping action from the cylinder and the that the air inlet would be of infinite dia. Head is starting to wake up and hurt, must take pills and resume hibernation. Erfolg

I was thinking about, at what point does the separation take place, is it about 30% as on many diagrams, or more or less. I then thought about Bernoulli (however it is spelt), wings and carburettors. I was thinking (idly), not many of my model engines I have, had much if any venturi (years since I have seen them, packed away). Being essentially parallel bores with the spray bar narrowing the cross sectional area. It then dawn on me, the venturi sketched to illustrate Bernoullis "Conservation of Energy" was only to clearly show the principal. I then thought, that icing if it occurs in model engines would probably more frequently happen with engines that have a small carburettor diameter relative to the mass flow of air (assuming that outside the inlet the air velocity is zero.) I think this will typically happen with engines designed to have an easy fuel draw characteristic, which I guess is "Sport Engines" . I stopped thinking about Bernoulli at this point, and how to relate the inlet cross sectional area variable of general atmosphere to the parallel tube, or to limit the model to the spay bar and tube). If it happens, I would expect particular engines (model type) to have the problem before some others.? Which seems to fit with some previous contributors experiences or does it? Erfolg

Richard  It could well be that icing in carbourators does occur, in very cold locations and is not reported because no (significant numbers of) modeller flies in these conditions. But it does strike me that there is planty of physical evidence that the air in these cold locations (be it the European Alps, Northen locations in North America, etc), is at the frost point (100% humidity at low teperatures). Frost attaching to trees, persons, mists. Some of these effects are more frequent in the late afternoon, onwords or just changes in the weather. May be no one (in their right mind) flies in them, although I have seen many attempts in the UK. I am ready to accept that icing can happen in model engine carbourators (Bournoli and Boyles law effects, reducing absolute humidity) I just think it would more frequently occur elsewhere and would be reported. But then again as Nowl Coward? sang "mad dogs and English men go out in the cold to fly their models" or somthing similar. It would be interesting to hear from  modellers who live (and fly?) in those cold locations. Regards Erfolg  

Richard Please do not try to limit discussion by the bogus use of "facts". Typically humidity in Colorado is 60% during the winter months, temperatures at or below freezing (-9C lowest). Compared with London at 80% humidity and temperatures at typically above freezing (+2c lowest quoted). A will state again if icing is going to happen I would expect it to happen in the low temperature states in the USA. May be it does. But discuss it, do not bluster. Erfolg

If icing were/is a problem in the UK, would it not occur in locations such as Colardo with such a frequency that it would be reported? There the air presure is much lower due to altitude, plus the air temperature will more frequently be lower, I also suspect that the humidity is also high.  Erfolg

With seven speed controllers that is a lot of cards. Unless that is there is a Universal controller out there? Although we do seem to have a number of cards within the club, is it possible to tell which cards will work with which controller by looking etc. Getting the brake on is a bain of my life!  Regards Erfolg 

It will happen, an incident that is. You will not prevent all accidents, as much as you can try. I guess you are looking for a solution which will reduce the occurence of the aforesaid. When I started RC modelling you needed a licence to operate Radio Control equipment, most clubs insisted that you show proof of having purchased such a thing. It did not require any profiency etc., only that you payed money to the goverment. Many argued that the requirement ensured that Joe Public were prevented or discouraged from buying toys and operating them in a reckless unregulated way. This was about the time of the end of Old Labour. It did no such thing. Along came CB, rubber duck, and all that, and the Goverment gave up in trying to stop the illegal operation on  27 band, however much the clubs and model trade called for action. Please do not be tempted to think that a New Labour type Licencing and regulation will help us. Past experience suggests that those who like to regulate and contol, law abiding citizens would love it. Massive fines and burocracy would be the order of the day us misguide citizens who were not fully compliant and help and assistance would be given to those I would consider to be truly anti-socilal. I personaly just shrug my shoulders at the apparent toys and encourage purchases of such things to join our club and be modellers. Fortunatly the vast majority of these toys are capable of little damage (in most cases). I seem to remember that my early toys were flown without insurance, a certificate of competance. I do not remember doing any significant damage with my Frog Witch or Bing catapult glider. Just relax Erfolg  

A sixty mile round trip takes the gloss of the shopping experience. It really would be nice to have a local model shop, there was a time (15 years ago) when we had four in the immediate area now, not a one. a despondent Erfolg The north of the Watford gap gibe, should have got some response. Whats happened to you southerners?

I thinks that is a place North of the Watford Gap. Excellent shop, higher price quartile (trying to be clever) To have a model shop near is a major advantage, in convienance. But prices are generally far better on the internet, but you must wait. Erfolg

Use cloth, and both the finished added weight and finishing time and effort will be considerably reduced. You might try your lacquer to attach glass fibre cloth or silk to your sheeted areas, the adhesion and finish could well be OK. In addition your dings should be preventable with average care after the treatment. Experiment on a a small sheet of balsa, veneer and ply. Erfolg

Reg I have now started to look at some of these comments (assuming that they are the same). Some are plain absolutist in their approach, some a little pedantic, there is the not made in the USA stance (or at least badged as such). It appears to be apparent Kokam, may manufacurer cells and assemble batteries, but buy in and badge things such as battery chargers. This is no sin, as Fords, BMW and most other domestic and other manufactures do this, to some degree. That is wiring, switches, mouldings, pressings, motors and the list goes on. But it does remind us that when this happens with something that is not incorporated into a product,  that the prices goes up, to cover contract management, handling  charges  etc. I worked for a large multinational that did this, for some accessories, and charged about four times the cost, that our supplier marketed the same product. Our marketing people even went as far as suggesting that there are some substandard imitations and you only get what you pay for. I will continue looking and await Timbos comments, observations and results with interest.   I do have resevations about buying abroad, what it does to our economy. Yet the keen pricing of our national competitors makes them difficult to ignore. I normally find that BRC and Robotbirds compare favourably with others, but not always. I am going to the USA/Mexico for a Holiday in the near future I will check out their prices, to see if it is worth buying there. To legaly avoid UK taxes.  Regards

Terry You really need a cloth for Draping qualitiesLower resin take up (keeps weight a lot lower than random strands)Wets out far betterIs more flexible, whilst retaining tensile and impact properties, relative to random strandsBetter finishAs for cloth weight 0.9oz/ft^2 is fine, but any reasonable variation either side will do for your purpose. But you do not want to go to extremes such as Woven Roving, that canoe builders might use etc. Therfore keep well clear of twills or any other cloth types, until you become familar with how they work and their properties. Strength and rigidity without weight is the "Holy Grail", generally speaking for us modellers. Erfolg

Did you have to pay inport and custom duties on this price? Erfolg