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HughG

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Everything posted by HughG

  1. Hi, Darryl, I'm glad I'm not the only one who's been puzzling over the centre section. I, too, built up the linking pieces. I'm finding that a well wetted piece of the wing sheet balsa can be persuaded into a compound curve. At least, I hope it can!. I'll find out tomorrow when the clamps come off. Richard, I hope mine turns out looking as good as yours! I bought the 60-120 e-Flite retracts. As you indicate, they are a really tight squeeze. Thanks for the tip on the legs. Hugh
  2. HughG

  3. HughG

  4. 1. Avicraft   2. Inwoods   3. Kyosho 90 Spitfire   4. Horizon 
  5. This might be a bit late for this thread, but the following clips seems show that the RCV 91CD is fine in this Spitfire. I've put one in mine, but it will be some weeks before I try it. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=L8TSU732-MA   Incidentally, there's a build blog on rcgroups.com. There's a lot of comment on weaknesses in the firewall area and how builders have had to beef up the area in various ways.
  6. This is a beautiful little aircraft which I'd be proud to own!
  7. This looks like one of the most popular prizes - anything with Chris Foss's name on it will be good. Please count me in!
  8. Nasa, Thanks for your comments. What I eventually did was to make up a circuit using some resistance wire as a load and then checked each cell individually. At about 2 amps, there was a clear differentiation between two of the cells from the rest in one pack, and three cells from the rest in the other. The difference showed mainly in the voltage drop  under load, and also in the current drawn. In the next couple of days, I'll make up a pack with the good cells and  see how it performs. I use a Ripmax Prodigy II charger, which provides similar reports eg low battery input voltage, and setting limits on discharge rates, low voltage etc etc. (I can solder quite well - I have a big iron for heavy duty and a temp. controlled iron with a fine point for fine work. I bought the 'clamp' packs with individual cells 'cos the supplier didn't have a welded pack meeting my requirements at the time. Has proved to be very useful and versatile).  Hugh
  9. I have 3 flight packs, each of 8 x 3500 mAh NiMH cells in an assembly which clamps the cells together, so allowing replacement of individual cells without soldering operations. The packs are used in a Reichard Svist (electric powered glider). Two of the packs seems to have deteriorated such that maximum revs in my set-up are about 1000 rpm below results from the 3rd pack. The deterioration is confirmed by various measurements with an Astro Whatt Meter. All three packs seems to charge up to about the same voltage. The individual cells all have about the same voltage after charge. Is there a simple way to check which of the cells in the packs might have deteriorated?
  10. I've never flown this type of aircraft before, so I'd like this  to be the first! Hugh
  11. Great sound on the video. Count me in, please.
  12. Can't see it on their website. I'm going to check out the wrapping film mentioned by Rob.
  13. This is a bit late in this topic, but I agree with Eric on the use of backing sheet - very useful and effective. I'd sound a note of caution over the use of photocopying. Unless you have access to a very good copier, it's more than likely that the copy will not be accurate in length and/or width. I've found this out the hard way with more than one photocopier. Make sure you check carefully! Hugh
  14. There's excellent instructions with photos on many aspects of servicing the Medevac at this link:  http://www.flyingsites.co.uk/howto/medevacupgrade.htm#21 Hugh
  15. I used to fly mode 1 (throttle right) up to when I stopped model flying 20-25 years ago. Between then and now, I spent quite a few hours (my wife would say too many) on Microsoft Flight Simulator and also had some full size fixed wing and heli lessons. When I eventually came back to RC model flying about 3 years ago, I felt I would feel more comfortable with mode 2 (ie with pitch and roll controls on the same stick). After all, that's what the joystick does in full size, both heli and fixed wing. I had no difficulty, but I'm sure I would have a problem if I now tried to fly mode 1. I read somewhere years ago that mode 1 was introduced to help competition pilots, to separate the roll and pitch controls in order to minimise that chances of inputting a bit of (eg) aileron when only elevator was wanted. I have a Twister Medevac for indoor flying, which I've found a great help in getting to grips with orientation with my larger 30 ic powered Hawk. Out of curiosity, I thought I'd try my 'normal' Tx instead of the Tx which comes with the Twister. I thought that the exponential functions might give me a bit more control outside when it's not a flat calm. However, forward/aft cyclic on the Tx gives me lateral cyclic in the Twister (I think!). I'm going to experiment with the servo sockets on the Twister Rx. I'll let you know what happens. Meanwhile, Santa gave me a Thunder Tiger mini-Titan! Hope I haven't strayed too far from the theme of this thread. Regards, Hugh
  16. Thanks for the reply. How much would you recommend? About 20% to start?
  17. I posted these comments in the Medevac thread, but didn't get any reply. Reading this thread, it looks as though one of you guys knows an answer? *************************************** I've struggled for some time with an ic powered heli (Century Hawk) and it's been getting quite expensive in repairs. However, with the Medevac I've been able to practice without too much expense (mainly replacement blades) and now on a quiet evening I can happily fly figure-of-eights in the garden and also do a nose in hover. Now for the bigger model! The medevac is a great training tool and beats simulators! I've now gone back to the Hawk and found that the hours with the Medevac have really paid off. I can now do with the Hawk what I was doing with the Twister. I brought the Hawk home with no damage - I was never near damaging it, which was not the case before! However, the Hawk is far more sensitive - I just seems to have to 'breathe' on the sticks. Would you experts out there recommend using exponential or should I stick with the sensitivity?
  18. My local model shop supplied me with an A2PRO charger. This has 200mA output and has interchangeable connectors for newer and older transmitters, centre positive or centre negative. Intructions are only in French but the diagrams are quite clear. Price was £9.99.
  19. I've now gone back to the Hawk and found that the hours with the Medevac have really paid off. I can now do with the Hawk what I was doing with the Twister. I brought the Hawk home with no damage - I was never near damaging it, which was not the case before! However, the Hawk is far more sensitive - I just seems to have to 'breathe' on the sticks. Would you experts out there recommend using exponential or should I stick with the sensitivity?
  20. I've struggled for some time with an ic powered heli (Century Hawk) and it's been getting quite expensive in repairs. However, with the Medevac I've been able to practice without too much expense (mainly replacement blades) and now on a quiet evening I can happily fly figure-of-eights in the garden and also do a nose in hover. Now for the bigger model! The medevac is a great training tool and beats simulators!
  21. A useful link giving info. on trimming the Medevac is http://www.flyingsites.co.uk/howto/medevacupgrade.htm#21
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