TartanMac
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Everything posted by TartanMac
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That would be great David. My internal callipers side is reading 7.85mm but they are consistently under by 0.15mm. Yeah I looked at just engines web site Denis the 2 barrels of the 46-53 carb and 40 have a different part number aswell as the complete carb numbers. I was sure I read a piece of text somewhere on the net that said what size it was maybe I made it up in my head lol. Gonna try it tomorrow once that 641 has fully cured.
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I have been all over the net trying to find out what carb barrel bore size the Maroon Irvine with the black carb has. I thought the 40 was 7.25 or 7.5 but I just got one second hand and it has some problems. The carb has a broken needle valve assembly which I thought ok I have a spare but I measured the bore it is 8mm. I think I might have a 53 carb on it. I know they have different part numbers and was sure it was smaller does anyone know what it is supposed to be ? The bearings were shot but I had a good set the right size but the crank it shot too from them turning on the crank they slip on way too easy. But it is a good opportunity to try the loctite 641 bearing to shaft adhesive before putting it on my Laser crank. So will find out if it works and how easy it breaks free again. But the carb I was sure was smaller unless the 46-53 carb is bigger. Gotta say those maroon Irvines are really well made inside still happy with it. Wish they still sold them new. Also does anyone have any rpm figures to expect out of this engine ?
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Looks amazing I dunno how people can use that covering so well stunning job.
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@ Engine Doctor. The snow was really bad so I could not have even left the village I live in there was no deliveries into the village either so the shop shelves were empty not seen that ever. The main road needed a digger to get rid of the snow. I saw on FB that it was 6ft at one point because of the wind blowing it off the field onto the main road. The council were nowhere to be seen the depot is literally 5 miles away too. There was a woman in the next village who fell ill and the ambulance could not get in the people in her street were out trying to clear the road so they could get to her. I have been snowed in for about a week so missed the opportunity to check it on a dial gauge. Hopefully the family member who's workshop I am hoping to use will take the time to help me figure out what is wrong with the engine on his lathe or milling machine and a dial gauge. I have a tuned pipe he wants for a rear port 61 he has. And he needs me to maiden, test fly and set up his trainer so I will use it as leverage lol. I am very keen to get this one fixed it is in great condition piston liner and rod wise so will keep at it. I also have a new genesis pipe for it so it should be good for 2 hp using Laser 5%.
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I don't really have a surface that I would trust to be flat enough to judge if the crank would have a bend in it at a particular spot. Ron I think I will hold off from buying anything then and give a go at straightening the crank, may aswell try it if I am going to go to the workshop anyway.
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@Ron. The rear bearing is a tight fit the last 3/8 or so. I had to tap it down lightly using a tube (West tuned pipe) to tap the centre race down. But it spins freely when on and I have a brand new Webra 91 P5 and its rear bearing feels the exact same. When I take the crank out and fit the front bearing it slides on nice till the very end and gets a little tighter where it seats but it is nothing like the rear it just nips up but I can spin it freely and remove it easily by hand it is not really tight on the shaft.
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Martin yes I can get to a work shop once the snow clears. I called my family member he said he can help me with checking it this weekend or in a fortnight. So I will just wait till then I suppose to figure out what I need to buy. It would be great if I could fix it. That is interesting Charles that you got that big a difference in 2 engines just on bearings. The bearings fitted have the same code number 608 and 61903 so they are at least the same size but the ones I fitted are hybrid ceramics from Amazon so I don't know the grade of the balls, races or fit. I think I remember them being C3 but not sure. It is so stiff though that I think Ron is right about the crank being bent. Where you fit the bearing on the crank it is tighter as it should be to stop the bearing slipping on the crank so maybe she I move it forward it is just coming of the slightly thinker part of the shaft.
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The bearings are brand new. The bearings fit in nicely when the housing is heated and turn freely when fitted on there own and when I got the crank it turns great when hot but when at room temp with front bearing fully home it is stiff to turn. By your description Ron sounds like I bent the crank. I had a look at the case where the bearing fits. It looks clean no scrapes. I can get a new crank and housing but it is pricey for both. Edited By TartanMac on 28/02/2018 16:58:41
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I checked the bearing sizes they correct size the front housing comes off like the old super tigre engines so it is not fitted to the case for the backplate to scrub the crank pin. I was thinking maybe because the bearing is out 1/3rd forward and there is less stiffness in turning it maybe it is just the front housing that is damaged. But I suppose when seated it could be right on the bend of the crank. I dunno.
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Ok well I have been going through my collection of engines the past few months and trying to figure out what works and what does not. So far I only have 3 engines with problems my mvvs 90 my Profi 76 and the one I want to ask about here is my Moki 61 LS. I think I have damaged it myself by trying to remove the prop driver by heating it then giving the crank a few hits. It did not want to come of after hitting it pretty hard the crank just slipped back gradually but the prop driver and collect did not come off. I borrowed a puller and it came off then got the crank out easy. I put new bearings in. The front one I fitted by putting it on the crank then heating the front housing. Went in easy then I fitted the rear to the crank as it is a really tight fit but I used a tube to tap the inner race to not damage the races or the balls. Then heated the housing and it slipped in easy. Now when the housing is still hot or even just hot so I can hold it, it turns great nice and free. But when its cold it is stiff and stiff through 360 degrees the same stiffness all the way round too. I then pushed the front bearing out till 1/3rd of the bearing is out the front of the case and it is much more free with just a slight stiffness to it. So was just wondering if anyone could tell me whether I have bent the crank or damaged the housing by the front bearing being knocked by the collet. Pretty gutted as it is a great engine in great condition just not sure what to do next.
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Old glow fuel - how to dispose of?
TartanMac replied to Martin Fraser's topic in All Things Model Flying
I have seen 2 gallons go completely off they were half full the engine ran but it took about 3-4 seconds from idle to get to max rpm and it struggled to get past 9,000 rpm on a prop that would take it to 15,400 rpm it has sat for about 5-6 years. But I recently ran my Laser 1.50V Twin on fuel that I think is around 4 years old it runs great. The can was not unopened either. It sat in my loft all that time with other fuel that is also fine. I don't think it is perfect but no worse than the average modellers can that has sat in the sun for a short period when flying. I also ran my 2 stroke Irvine 36 on Irvine 10% around 4-5 years old and it runs perfectly 1,900- 2,200 rpm idle 15,400 WOT on a M/A S2 11x5 checked it on my West also last week and got 1,600-1,800 rpm idle 17,600 rpm WOT on a 9x4 it is not perfect as a prolonged idle starts to drop a little more than it would if it was completely fresh fuel but still great condition. I would keep it I always keep mine for cleaning if it's really bad, but if it is just a slightly higher idle and slight loss at the top end then I use it or keep it for running in an engine with. I have 2 tins of car fuel from tornado (metal can ) it keeps well for years in those containers. -
Thanks Bob and Kevin those 2 plans look great. I think maybe when I get the kits I have built I will move on to that Der Jager. That Outerzone website is amazing I spent quite a lot of time looking through the biplanes I did not even get through 1/10 of them. Is RCM&E involved in creating that website and it's content too ?
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Not sure if I should post this here but on page 15 there is a little Biplane. It's a stunning looking plane and was wondering if anyone knows what it is ? Biplanes always look a bit special in my opinion they always look like they loop really tight with no effort too.
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Well after a good wait I got what I needed. I looked around loctites site maybe I was on the wrong part of it or wrong site but they had very poor descriptions for the wide variety of choice between there products. I ended up going to buy 620 but after being on ebay found 641. I was looking at 574 sealant but the price and the fact the 595 says it is flexible and also your recommendation Jon I went for the 595. I was wondering about the sealer and thought is it better to put it on and just torque it up straight away or should I partially torque it till it just starts to set then torque it right up ? I was going to take the inner seal off the bearing but was wondering what your recommendation for that would be Jon as I have removed factory fitted bearings off a few engines that had both seals fitted.
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I came across this site years ago and found it very helpful in trying to learn about aeroplanes and getting started in learning but just never really got into building or designing I will one day when there is something I cannot buy that I really want. It is the best site I have come across but you probably found it already. http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/math_and_science_of_model_aircraft/rc_aircraft_design/step_by_step_model_aircraft_design.htm
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Posted by onetenor on 19/02/2018 21:04:07: Tartan Mac I hope you stripped everything first before skippng it. I couldn't do that without removing the lot. Yes I took all the servos and the engine, tank, mount all that out still have the servos. It was originally a Hanger 9 and another company made it once they stopped producing it. I could not throw away an aeroplane without stripping it either.
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Had one of these Cap 232 40 size planes never liked it at all would roll out of loops because of the flex in the wires for the tail and you had to come in fast and it would drop a wing quick too. I preferred my trainer it ended up in a skip and some kids lifted it out and ran away with it lol.
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What is the best option? Okay! Second best option?
TartanMac replied to Manish Chandrayan's topic in IC Engines
Just looking at the last picture on the thread Manish you can see 2 bolts. I don't know what tools you have and what you would be comfortable doing but if I wanted to fix that in as simple a way as possible without trusting an adhesive or using molten metal then a purely mechanical fix would be to make a bracket. You could use the 2 bolts that hold the plenum if that is what it's called behind the carb to bolt in a plate you could make out of aluminium plate basically a rectangular plate with 2 holes in one end for the plenum end then 2 holes at the other end for the carb. You could then use an adhesive to glue a small piece from the carb end to the case as a support rather than a structural joint. I am not sure how heavy your carb is and how much G force you put on the airframe but that is the simplest way I can think of. You would probably need 2 bolts slightly longer than the original plenum bolts to make up for the thickness of the plate. Maybe a dremmel bit for grinding as the plenum part has a curve in between the bolts and some adhesive that will bond metal well if it needs the support at the end and of course an aluminium plate a back saw and a drill also maybe those nuts with the plastic in them for the 2 carb bolts. But you would not need to take the engine apart which is nice. And it is pretty simple to do. -
What is the best option? Okay! Second best option?
TartanMac replied to Manish Chandrayan's topic in IC Engines
The solder I used to fix a crack in a pipe melts at 235 degrees C. 450 degrees F. But it has to be really clean. I would not use an adhesive I would not trust it especially on a carb and on an engine of that value. Maybe you could make a bracket of your own to fix it to, coming of a nearby bolt the cylinder bolts look close. If using solder or a welder it will get very hot normal outside cylinder temp is I think 245F. So you would probably be best stripping it down and getting the oil and grease and any parts that will melt off it. Apart from that the only thing I can think of before I would spend the money for a case would be to try and fit twin carbs from a Laser 1.60 as it will run better and no need to worry about the same problem happening again. But again that will take some work also. -
I was thinking about using epoxy as I used it on an exhaust before and it sealed well.
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Just wondering if anyone has a recommendation for a sealer as that stuff I used last time did not seem to stick well in the crankcase environment with oil and fuel it came of very easy. I used it on an inlet manifold on my Enya and it stuck and sealed way better but it is on the outside of the carb not inside a crankcase. I was going to buy the black Visbella silicone stuff but there is quite a few options.
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Thanks for the info guys I think the gunge is from the cylinders as I did not hone them and they were not clean when I went round them very very lightly the paper was black and brown coloured from the liners. But they are very nice looking now apart from some orange from light corrosion which I felt turning it over after running that 10% Irvine fuel. I thought it might well be the media from blasting it but there is no sign of it in the crank case but the mess in the cam box I cannot actually feel it on my fingers so I'm guessing it is from the cylinders the cams have a polished finnish now and don't have a dip in them I think the rest of the engine is fine. But it does look pretty dirty. I had a Picco 28 P3 engine in a Hobao Hyper ST Pro 1/8 scale race truck Brand new just run in and I took it to an old coal mine. I put a new air filter on it but pinched the bottom with the tie wrap so there was a gap coal dust went in one tank and the engine was ruined. When you mentioned the blasting media Jon I got flash backs.
