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Manish Chandrayan

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  1. Most good bearings have the sizes mentioned on them. Look for the same nomenclature when procuring new ones and size issue is resolved
  2. This happens when the metal/metallic layer backing of the LCD starts to deteriorate with age. Have seen this happen to a kept in original case (with silica gel packs) in a new Futaba 9CAP . Luckily the spare LCD was available then
  3. High Start , those lovely pictures of the QB 2500 reminds me to complete my QB that has been languishing after having 80% airframe work completed.
  4. Got your point Engine Doctorđź‘Ť
  5. Yes Jon, even the Zenoah GT 80 twin use a single bolt. Wondering why NGH went this way of using both. I do see that the latest NGH 70 have redesigned the hub to eliminate the sleeve nut and fix the prop hub to the shaft like DLE and the prop is fixed on to the hub with multi bolts.
  6. Hello Engine Doctor. It is a wooden prop a Falcon 24x8. I do employ a standard practice of regularly checking the multi bolts on all my DLE. They do compress and then tend to stabilize after a few cycles. But I still check regularly just for my satisfaction. Why do you say that use of a spinner with ally backplate will mandatorily necessitate the multi bolts? The way the engine is designed, while the multi bolts could be an option the sleeve and locking nuts will be mandatory.
  7. Need some considered advice from the group please. Wanting to run the NGH GTT 70 twin petrol on one of my models. The prop hub on the engine is keyed with a woodruff key, and the prop is secured to the prop hub by means of a substantial sleeve nut together with a lock nut of 3/8"-24 size. The prop hub additionally has four M5 bolts that fix the prop to the prop hub and I think are designed to prevent the prop slipping on the hub for any reason. The prop I want to run on this engine was already drilled for a DLE 61 where the multi bolts are spaced at 30mm while the NGH is spaced at 29mm. If I were to use the multi bolts on the NGH I will either have to enlarge the existing holes (bad ideaI think) or drill new holes making a swiss cheese of the prop hub. The question being, can I run the engine where the prop is only secured with the sleeve nut and the lock nut ? Or maybe use only two of the multi bolts by drilling new holes? A picture of the prop hub area of the engine is attached for reference
  8. Highly recommend, been using this for almost a decade now. Light weight for single hand operation. Has on board battery level indicator, starts up to 50cc petrol engines. If I were to criticise, the only point would be the internal battery connection.
  9. Mike if I may suggest? Install small hooks (fashioned out of some suitable piano wire) in the wings and fuse at appropriate location and install eyes (cotter pins anchored in?) at the strut ends. Install lower wings, hook on the struts lower end and fix on the top wings. The struts are then retained on with simulated flying and landing wires from a suitable legth of shirring elastic. That's how I have it on my 20 size Gordon Whitehead design Tiger Moth
  10. Mike, I just noticed that the cabane lacks the 'N' struts. Did you add them post these pictures?
  11. If one is worried about annealing the piano wire while using pukka silver solder use something with lower silver content like the Stabrite or similar that has 4/5 silver and low working temperature and much stronger than the 60/40 solder. A happy medium between the standard electronics solder and solder used for brazing etc
  12. Hello! Mike. The fuselage jig pieces you are using, are they 3D printed?
  13. I have one that came to me in NiB condition and the box is marked RC. Could it be that the box for RC/CL was common?
  14. A couple of years back I had bought few packs from a supplier in Australia. Due to my mistake the pack was over drained and the charger would not detect them. The supplier asked me to connect the pack, select NiMH chemistry and start charging and terminate the charge as soon as pack voltage reached 5.1/5 volts (It took no time to reach that voltage). That did revive the pack. Since then have done the same to two or three packs that were accidentally over discharged. I did cycle the packs and check the capacity before putting them back in service on my models.
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