Manish Chandrayan

A Leo 28, that was my first glow engine and never ran right. It would either go lean and cut or be very rich.

If I am allowed to post pictures of C/L models. Two pictures of recently completed Junior Ringmaster. Engine is an MVVS .12. A quite heavy engine and one that requires pressure feed to run right. Something that I discovered yesterday when I wanted to fly it for the global Ringmaster flyathon. Have changed the engine now to an OS 15 FP and have saved around an ounce of weight. About half an ounce lighter engine and removed half an ounce from tail weight. Hope to fly it next weekend

Excellent work Pascal👏

Yes the pistons are different for the side exhaust and rear exhaust configurations. The piston cutouts are different. The first picture is side exhaust piston. Second from rear exhaust version. Pictures from NGH instructions manual that came with my engine. The new engine from factory came with both options in the box and the user could change from one to another prior to first start and run in procedure.

Each engine and the model the engine has been fitted to will dictate the idle rpms. For the low end I do not tach the numbers (other than just out of curiosity). My method is to set the low end so that I get lowest possible idle on the engine and clean transition after a slow count of 15/20. Thereafter the trims are set with stick at the lowest position. I aim for a trim setting where the button/cursor is somewhere in the middle and with the throttle stick down and engine idling the model should not roll on ground. Additionally the throttle cut switch should cut the engine by closing the barrel/butterfly completely.

Other than the bother of cleaning up a bit of an oil mess, I would rather be happy that the bottom end of the engine and all the three bearings are seeing enough oil. If the engine is behaving itself in terms of reliability and power I would not be concerned about the oil drips. If you have ever run one of those ASP/SC/Magnum flat twins you would know how the breather continues to drip oil for a few days post a flying session

Would any one happen to have a copy of Scale RC Modeller June 84? This had the part 2 feature on the Switzer DH 89 Rapide.

Are you modelling one with floats?

1:20 is the ratio of lube to fuel. 1 L of lube in 20 L of Fuel is right. That 1:20 implies one portion of oil for 20 portion of oil The portion could be anything as long as both oil and fuel are measured using the same portion. Lot of folks confuse this.

It's on OZ

Update on the issue I had sought advice. Last weekend, ran the engine some more. The leak did not seem to get any worse. Once the engine had cooled down, cleaned the area as best it could be with cellulose thinners and then alcohol and allowed to dry. Some CA was applied carefully to the area and again allowed some time to dry. The area was then capped with some JB weld and model wheeled back to storage at the field that we are fortunate enough to enjoy. This weekend wheeled the model out, installed batteries etc and inspected the leaky area on the engine. The JB weld had nicely cured. Fuelled up and started the engine and ran about half tank in the same rich condition it was. No leak was seen during the run. Allowed to cool and then the engine was run again this time tweaked the needles a bit to lean off the engine. Took it to 6800/6900 on onboard tacho with a 23x8 falcon and still being on the richer side. Satisfied that there still was no leak, put on the cowl and had two flights. The engine tune changed with the cowl on, so will tweak that next time I fly the model. Will also take a look at the engine area to see if there is any leak. In summary the fix seems to work.

Instead of decal, a stamped metal plate would be a pukka job

The iMax B6 and similar perfectly charge single cell glow boosters. I have been using that for quite some time now. If your battery chemistry and count selection is set correctly to NiMh/NiCd it should charge the glow driver. Few things you could check. Is the cell in the driver serviceable? What charge rate are you trying to start the charge? If trying at low rate, try bumping it to 1/2 Amp and see if starts the process. If it does, terminate the process in say 30.40 seconds and try at a lower rate Is the charge lead fine? not shorts etc.?

To Cuban8's point, and especially when it came to 2 strokes, the piston and cylinders from ASP were much better than OS for the OS 46 FX. When these were available Just Engines used to retail the ASP piston liners as replacement for the OS 46 FX. I have personally used them as replacement parts on few of my OS

Richard, aren't you going in for the "OFF" label on the switch plate?