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Dale Bradly

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  1. Thanks for that. Understood, not something I need, but appreciate that others would find the appeal.
  2. From the page Alan linked: (About Diacov) and reiterating what Alan has said; They say iron from 100 degrees, but 120 seems better to us.
  3. So i had a proper play with the Corona module in my temp location. All 7 channels respond in full, and all the "options" this radio has (D/R, Expo (called VTR on here), the built in mixes etc) all work when asked to. Happily drove 6 assorted servos and an retract unit on Ch 5, so there is really no need to look elsewhere. And this was an easier place to connect wires to, so I've decided to use this location, despite what i posted earlier. So without further ado, i mounted the module and soldered in place. Note the white connector at the bottom right has disappeared from the previous photo, i removed it and soldered the power and ppm signal wires to the other side of the board here. Also took out the pins at the center of the board where the Futaba RD module connected, as these were now unneeded and would be in the way of the next part. I gutted the Futaba RF module enclosure, and cut away one side. This serves two purposes: I'm going to mount the daughterboard on the side of the RF enclosure. This has the bind button and indicator LED. Since these functions won't be needed often, i'm happy to hide them away, and only need to pop the RF enclosure out to get at anyway. The cutout provides clearance where the button & LED will protrude into the cavity. The other reason for the cutout is it gives me a convenient place to store the special balance charge lead so it doesn't get misplaced! The next step was to mount the aerial. I want to use the factory aerial mount, but there is a physical incompatibility here, so i have a small widget on order to resolve this. So until this arrives, there isn't a lot left i can do. So stand by for the next update in a few days.
  4. Before playing with the 2.4g module, i did a couple of other small jobs. Firstly i verified that there is a direct link from the factory charging port to the battery, which there is. I had it in my head there was a diode in the circuit, which would interfere with charging via this port, but as there is not, then that's fine. So to can charge off two seperate input sockets on completion, being the original charge socket with it's center negative barrel connector, or the newly modified 6pin ex trainer plug. Second job was to get the original voltmeter on the front of the Tx working. Not complicated. The positive side of this is connected direct to battery +ve via the power switch through a potentiometer, presumably to allow for fine tuning of the voltmeter. The -ve side however returns via the RF module. I understand that when the RF module is in operation, a transistor within this allows the -ve circuit to complete. In other words: no RF output = no battery indication. Since i won't be using a Futaba rf module, i put a link in on the motherboard, joining the batt meter's -ve connection to batt -ve. The onboard potentiometer, even at full adjustment wasn't enough to bring the voltmeter needle down of the stop, so the link is actually a resistor. So now when the Tx is turned on, the meter comes up to about 99% of scale. I'm not looking at it as a accurate voltmeter, but rather just as an indicator that the thing is turned on. So success here. So the next step i thought i'd start playing with the RF side of things. I picked this up recently to be the heart of the operation: I thought i'd carry out a "test drive" before putting in a lot of effort to find there was a bigger issue at play here. The unit is a DIY "hack" module, similar to the FrSky one that was popular (and i fitted to my JR a decade ago). So as the trainer port is no longer in use, the connections for same gave me a convenient place to connect this up and "see if it worked". The white plug at the bottom right of the motherboard is this. The 4 wires on it used to go to the trainer socket. They are batt +ve & -ve, (red & black) ppm out (brown) and ppm in (yellow). So the red, black and brown give me all i need to connect the Corona 2.4 module. With that lashed up, a typical bind sequence carried out between Tx & Rx, success was had. I could operate the servo at the Rx. I don't intend on using this for the permanent connections though, as i have noted there is no direct link between the PPM output terminal here at the trainer port, and the one at the (Futaba) RF module terminal. Reasons for, or if i would miss out on anything by connecting here, i don't know. Coming off the Tx at the point where the PPM signal was turned into RF makes more sense to me, then i'm transmitting as much as possible, so making the most of the factory features of the radio. Next step I'll be doing a little more testing and then look to permanently mount and connect the Corona RF module.
  5. Tell me, what's the advantage/reasoning for "Phil Greens encoder boards based on an arduino nano"?
  6. Good work John, may it serve well! So the first step was battery. Not much point doing anything else if i don't have a power supply. These units originally had a built in NiCd, and about 8.4V if memory serves correctly, so had to find something that will fit in the space available. I found a 3s LiFe that would, so this was duly purchased. Located adjacent is the redundant trainer port, which will go on to find a new life as the battery balance connector. So made this up, and the matching charge adaptor. So with that done, i can now power it up. So the next step will be to temporarily connect the 2.4 module and see if that comes to life.
  7. A project I've been getting around to doing has made it to the bench. My first radio was a Futaba Gold unit, so of course have fond memories of. Would love to have one again for old times sake. Sometime in the near future, i'm going to build a vintage style model, so this would be perfect for that. Picked one up recently, and decided to set about a 2.4g conversion. Not the first one i've done i have had a JR9XII which went from 36MHz to a 2.4g plugin module to Frsky hack module. This one i want to do a little more "factory" as if it was always this way. This will be a permanent one-way conversion, in other words, there is no intention of ever being able to undo this conversion, so if there is any severe mods required, this won't be a problem. Unit as received: Is missing the battery and aerial but these are not a problem due to the work planned.
  8. Possibilities: Servo was faulty and would have gone anyway. Servo didn't have enough torque for the load required. Depending on geometry, there is a lot of mass to lift by the servo, possibly more than you think. Either way: Servo slow functions from tx have no realistic effect on torque.
  9. Paxolin is great if you can find it. Ply is absolutely fine. I have also used nylon, in the form of a cheap as chips cutting board from the pound store: Cheap to buy, easy to work, strong as anything. I don't recommend aluminum for such a plate though.
  10. Just to be clear, i didn't recommend mounting the engine the right way up. I said invert the mount and then hang then engine inverted off it. If you mount the engine the right way up, your cowl won't fit, or you'll arkwardly have the engine poking out the top of the cowl. Again, you seem to be complicating what is a simple solve to a simple challenge. Here's what i'd do in this case. This is a pic from the manual, with about 30 seconds of MS Paint's finest cad: The red lines indicate the engine centre line if it was all done as per Seagull intended. So I'd invert the engine mounts, and faste to the factory fitted blind nuts. Notice i have done this in this picture. No redrilling, no trying to fish out inaccessible blind nuts, no filling holes etc. Some packers (green), and a ply plate (yellow). You cut out the yellow plate to suit your engine. The end result is your smaller engine remains inverted (as per manual), centered on the red lines (as per manual), but because of the green & yellow spacers, your smaller engine fits to the supplied engine mounting spacing. I hope this is clear.
  11. I really think you're overthinking this. No need to "disassemble the front of the fuselage". Im looking at the manual, to understand whats going on, and any one of the ideas i have already posted will solve this. Furthermore, inverting the engine mount from what the plan shows will give plenty of room to fit a mounting plate between the (inverted) engine bearers and the engine, while keeping the engine at the right height. Cutting one piece of ply is a lot easier than dismantling and rebuilding the front of the fuselage.
  12. Some more ways to skin this cat. Some ideas ive used before: 1. Bolt the engine mount to a piece of ply at the spacing to suit your engine. Then bolt the ply to the firewall using the existing blind nuts. Thus your piece of ply has become an "adaptor" between the spacing you have and the spacing you want. 2. Bolt the engine mount in. Cut a ply or similar material mounting plate that will bridge the gap between the mount and engine lugs. 3. Replace the engine mount with something that provides some/more adjustment that will allow your engine to fit
  13. I love this question, because here's my answer with regards to the Radiomaster: (Ive got a TX16S which i upgraded from OTX to ETX) OpenTX is red, EdgeTX is blue. Oh, and EdgeTX makes the touchscreen work, which i find almost pointless, the small size vs my fat digits standing in a paddock? More accurate to use the buttons/scroll wheel. So the touchscreen functionality adds no tangible benefit to me. The menu structures, options, control of plane functionality they each give you are are all but identical. My hobby is building toy planes out of balsa, and flying them in a field. The two different (nearly identical) OS's do nothing either way for that. Guys who like programming computers; or must have the latest of whatever the latest thing is, will wax lyrical about firmware updates, LUA scripts and stuff like that. None of this helps me build and fly my models, so i don't go for it. Stand by for other opionions.
  14. Toto, don't go there. Don't go and pull your brand new, factory set, equipment apart because of some random YT video. 99% of other gas modellers haven't done such extreme tests and adjustments either. I've got 3 gassers similar to yours, including stingers and a 21cc twin. All run like sewing machines and haven't been pulled apart.
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