Manish Chandrayan

Maybe some one converted one of the Glow's to Diesel?

Nice work on the build and flying👍

That's a nice Hurricane, even has an authentic patina of age👍

Absolutely! And I would not advise any one ever to run that size prop on a 150/155 size engine

Thanks for the dimensions 👍

No go then! I was looking for one for my Elephant 🤣

👍

Clean work👍. What size is the bed?

Thanks for the details Dale, are you doing the original 67" span or the revised 69"?

Dale what all parts were included in your short kits? Did it have all the shaped balsa and ply parts?

Yes I too had the same question with regards to pricing. Would be interesting to know what (all) is included in the short kit for that price. Maybe I will shoot an email to them and see what I hear back

When assembling steel and aluminum parts together always a good idea to lightly oil the surfaces.👍 On four stroke mufflers, a few wraps of Teflon tape every time the muffler or the manifold is being put back together will ensure no leaks.

Gaskets will eventually fail at some point and that would lead to the muffler coming loose. As suggested by Ken, clean the mating surfaces as best as you can, a thin bead of clear silicone gasket material, bring surfaces together, nip up the bolts and let it all cure for at least 24 hours and it won't leak or come loose.

Get some craft epoxy, the type used for table river. It's pretty thin and flowing, can be brushed on and apart from fuel proofing can be also used for glassing over wooden surfaces, moulding glass fibres. Plenty of uses. Once cured , is impervious to all types of model fuels. The cure time is 24 hours but can be accelerated by periodically wafting some warm air over the coated surface with hair dryer or heat gun. After application give about two hours for it to soak in nicely in to the wood and then go over with the hair dryer every two hours. Will make it hard enough to handle in about 8 hours. Cures nice and hard and sands well

Can't say what colour the crane is 😁, but you won't have any visibility issues with the model 👍

From what I have seen on Facebook, they do seem to be genuine business located in UK and are kitting out some of the older and now not available TF kits and accessories for the kits they produce.

My first reaction on seeing the first picture was. "What a hideous looking undercarriage for a nice scale job!". That is, till the time I scrolled further down to see the scale undercarriage and the bulb lit up that the alloy job was only for storage and transport. Nicely made and lovely scale details. Hope you have many hours of joy flying this ship👍

Congratulations on a successful repair and re-maiden

Swann Morton website lists all the Major range blades (including Major V) as obsolete and no longer available for purchase

A Leo 28, that was my first glow engine and never ran right. It would either go lean and cut or be very rich.

If I am allowed to post pictures of C/L models. Two pictures of recently completed Junior Ringmaster. Engine is an MVVS .12. A quite heavy engine and one that requires pressure feed to run right. Something that I discovered yesterday when I wanted to fly it for the global Ringmaster flyathon. Have changed the engine now to an OS 15 FP and have saved around an ounce of weight. About half an ounce lighter engine and removed half an ounce from tail weight. Hope to fly it next weekend

Excellent work Pascal👏

Yes the pistons are different for the side exhaust and rear exhaust configurations. The piston cutouts are different. The first picture is side exhaust piston. Second from rear exhaust version. Pictures from NGH instructions manual that came with my engine. The new engine from factory came with both options in the box and the user could change from one to another prior to first start and run in procedure.

Each engine and the model the engine has been fitted to will dictate the idle rpms. For the low end I do not tach the numbers (other than just out of curiosity). My method is to set the low end so that I get lowest possible idle on the engine and clean transition after a slow count of 15/20. Thereafter the trims are set with stick at the lowest position. I aim for a trim setting where the button/cursor is somewhere in the middle and with the throttle stick down and engine idling the model should not roll on ground. Additionally the throttle cut switch should cut the engine by closing the barrel/butterfly completely.

Other than the bother of cleaning up a bit of an oil mess, I would rather be happy that the bottom end of the engine and all the three bearings are seeing enough oil. If the engine is behaving itself in terms of reliability and power I would not be concerned about the oil drips. If you have ever run one of those ASP/SC/Magnum flat twins you would know how the breather continues to drip oil for a few days post a flying session