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Manish Chandrayan

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Everything posted by Manish Chandrayan

  1. Manish Chandrayan
    Are you modelling one with floats?
  2. Manish Chandrayan
    1:20 is the ratio of lube to fuel. 1 L of lube in 20 L of Fuel is right. That 1:20 implies one portion of oil for 20 portion of oil The portion could be anything as long as both oil and fuel are measured using the same portion. Lot of folks confuse this.
  3. Manish Chandrayan
    It's on OZ
  4. Manish Chandrayan
    Update on the issue I had sought advice. Last weekend, ran the engine some more. The leak did not seem to get any worse. Once the engine had cooled down, cleaned the area as best it could be with cellulose thinners and then alcohol and allowed to dry. Some CA was applied carefully to the area and again allowed some time to dry. The area was then capped with some JB weld and model wheeled back to storage at the field that we are fortunate enough to enjoy. This weekend wheeled the model out, installed batteries etc and inspected the leaky area on the engine. The JB weld had nicely cured. Fuelled up and started the engine and ran about half tank in the same rich condition it was. No leak was seen during the run. Allowed to cool and then the engine was run again this time tweaked the needles a bit to lean off the engine. Took it to 6800/6900 on onboard tacho with a 23x8 falcon and still being on the richer side. Satisfied that there still was no leak, put on the cowl and had two flights. The engine tune changed with the cowl on, so will tweak that next time I fly the model. Will also take a look at the engine area to see if there is any leak. In summary the fix seems to work.
  5. Manish Chandrayan
    Instead of decal, a stamped metal plate would be a pukka job
  6. Manish Chandrayan
    The iMax B6 and similar perfectly charge single cell glow boosters. I have been using that for quite some time now. If your battery chemistry and count selection is set correctly to NiMh/NiCd it should charge the glow driver. Few things you could check. Is the cell in the driver serviceable? What charge rate are you trying to start the charge? If trying at low rate, try bumping it to 1/2 Amp and see if starts the process. If it does, terminate the process in say 30.40 seconds and try at a lower rate Is the charge lead fine? not shorts etc.?
  7. Manish Chandrayan
    To Cuban8's point, and especially when it came to 2 strokes, the piston and cylinders from ASP were much better than OS for the OS 46 FX. When these were available Just Engines used to retail the ASP piston liners as replacement for the OS 46 FX. I have personally used them as replacement parts on few of my OS
  8. Manish Chandrayan
    Richard, aren't you going in for the "OFF" label on the switch plate?
  9. Manish Chandrayan
    Another issue would be to mark off the areas that do not need any paint as those will need sticking to the substrate. In my view it would be better to paint the interior (the visible parts) after the covering has been applied
  10. Manish Chandrayan
    Thanks for the link Bert. Loved watching 👍
  11. Manish Chandrayan
    Congratulation on the beautiful build and maiden👍. I can not open the video file uploaded by Bert. Anyone else facing the same issue?
  12. Manish Chandrayan
    Thanks for your suggestions Engine Doc. The engine was rebuilt by myself. Pictures of old and new set of parts at the end of this post. The case halves are flanged to mate and do not use a gasket. When I had disassembled the engine I did notice some kind of cured retaining compound. During assembly , I used Loctite bearing retaining compound on the flange but faintly remember not applying any around the index pin. Was apprehensive of the pin getting glued in and causing issues if and when the engine needed disassembly in future. The engine was being run rich as this was the first tank of 25 oz fuel. I do understand the importance of case sealing. Will lean out and see what the engine does I was thinking, what if I clean the area as best as possible, and dribble a drop or two or cyano so that it wicks in and then cap the area with some epoxy/JB weld. Not the best way to handle the situation but that would preclude opening up the engine and loosing the cylinder piston ring fits that have started to fit and bed in.
  13. Manish Chandrayan
    With all new internal parts the NGH 70 was assembled and run. During running I noticed a tiny leak from the index pin area of the case join (marked with red arrow). There are no other leaks and the engine while running rich (1 3/4 open on both needles) is doing 1600/1700 idle and 6400/6500 with a 23x8 Falcon prop. What is the best way to stop the leak of raw fuel from the area marked? I would prefer not to disassemble the engine. Or should I just leave it alone. The worry being raw petrol being expelled and once cowled can that pose a risk?
  14. Manish Chandrayan
    Jeff If the bendy pipe is touching the ply it will eventually start singeing the wood. A fiberglass bandage around that part should prevent it. I also hope that you will install support for the pipe and the muffler
  15. Manish Chandrayan
    Mark Most quarter scale Tiger Moths get flown powered by engines between 120-180 size. So if you choose an engine in the middle of the range you should be covered. Laser/Saito/OS/Enya take your pick based on your preference. If you know your models turn out on the heavier side of the indicated weight range or if you intend adding lots of scale details etc go on towards the larger engine size. The Tiger mostly flies on wings. I was very skeptical with my quite heavy quarter scale till I flew it for the first time. The 150 does a fantastic job of flying it like a Tiger Moth. Curious why do you say the prop is 16x6? Would that not depend on finally what engine you choose and how you want your model to fly? If you want the prop to be near the scale size on your quarter scale model, the prop should be around 19" If your prop choice is fixed at 16x6 a 120 will be best suited for the given prop and the Tiger. Just keep everything as light as possible.
  16. Manish Chandrayan
    Moulded/Cast?
  17. Manish Chandrayan
    Since the problem occurs when the fuel in the tank is about half, try tuning the high and low needles to their respective best position with the tank half full
  18. Manish Chandrayan
    That is around 75 inches of wingspan. Interesting! Who does the model?
  19. Manish Chandrayan
    A torpedo?
  20. Manish Chandrayan
    Thanks for the detailed explanation Richard. Your drawings, pictures and explanations confirmed what I had been guessing. The cables from the chain fixed to the intermediate crank retain tension and thus the chain remains on sprocket when the wings are dismantled. Hope you have or are planning to safety wire all four of the turnbuckles.
  21. Manish Chandrayan
    Hello Richard, could you please provide some more detail on how you ensure that the chain does not slip off the sprocket when the wings are taken off the fuselage?
  22. Manish Chandrayan
    Richard I see the M1 bits now. I had used 12BA on my quarter scale.👍 Brian I also looked up the Classic Scale Plans and notice that the spreader bars are treated in a un scale manner. The Falcon ones are best I have seen
  23. Manish Chandrayan
    Brian, those are "Bracing Wire Spreader Bars" also referred as long acorns. On the full scale these are made out of 6 different pieces and some fasteners. See Peter's thread and the picture he posted on March 9, 2017 for some ideas
  24. Manish Chandrayan
    Richard, I am sure you meant M2 and not M1 threads on the Mick Reeves fork ends. Regarding the DH logos on the interplane struts, from the picture they look the part, I would suggest sticking them on to the wood with some clear varnish and coat over with the same material to protect them. Do check on a scrap print as the colours may smudge with solvent or water based varnishes. Regarding the slide in wing pairs, there has to be some kind of wing fixing both at top and bottom to keep the wings attached to the fuse sides. Isn't it so? Once you are satisfied with the, dihedral, sweep back, incidence etc on all four, and all the nuts on flying, landing incidence and cabane wires are thread locked, you should be able to undo the wing fixings and slide the left and right pair out for transportation. You will have to make a fixture that attaches to the wing roots and supports the wing pairs when they are not fixed to the fuse. After a couple of flying sessions the wires may need a bit of tweaking as they may stretch a little
  25. Manish Chandrayan
    And the point that by introducing the voltage regulator/UBEC one is introducing an additional piece of equipment with multiple individual component that can fail. Had one yesterday at the field. Post recovery of the model it was investigated and found that the voltage regulator had no output. Radio was a Jeti so logs are awaited for a conclusive proof.
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