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Manish Chandrayan

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Everything posted by Manish Chandrayan

  1. Jeff If the bendy pipe is touching the ply it will eventually start singeing the wood. A fiberglass bandage around that part should prevent it. I also hope that you will install support for the pipe and the muffler
  2. Mark Most quarter scale Tiger Moths get flown powered by engines between 120-180 size. So if you choose an engine in the middle of the range you should be covered. Laser/Saito/OS/Enya take your pick based on your preference. If you know your models turn out on the heavier side of the indicated weight range or if you intend adding lots of scale details etc go on towards the larger engine size. The Tiger mostly flies on wings. I was very skeptical with my quite heavy quarter scale till I flew it for the first time. The 150 does a fantastic job of flying it like a Tiger Moth. Curious why do you say the prop is 16x6? Would that not depend on finally what engine you choose and how you want your model to fly? If you want the prop to be near the scale size on your quarter scale model, the prop should be around 19" If your prop choice is fixed at 16x6 a 120 will be best suited for the given prop and the Tiger. Just keep everything as light as possible.
  3. Since the problem occurs when the fuel in the tank is about half, try tuning the high and low needles to their respective best position with the tank half full
  4. That is around 75 inches of wingspan. Interesting! Who does the model?
  5. Thanks for the detailed explanation Richard. Your drawings, pictures and explanations confirmed what I had been guessing. The cables from the chain fixed to the intermediate crank retain tension and thus the chain remains on sprocket when the wings are dismantled. Hope you have or are planning to safety wire all four of the turnbuckles.
  6. Hello Richard, could you please provide some more detail on how you ensure that the chain does not slip off the sprocket when the wings are taken off the fuselage?
  7. Richard I see the M1 bits now. I had used 12BA on my quarter scale.πŸ‘ Brian I also looked up the Classic Scale Plans and notice that the spreader bars are treated in a un scale manner. The Falcon ones are best I have seen
  8. Brian, those are "Bracing Wire Spreader Bars" also referred as long acorns. On the full scale these are made out of 6 different pieces and some fasteners. See Peter's thread and the picture he posted on March 9, 2017 for some ideas
  9. Richard, I am sure you meant M2 and not M1 threads on the Mick Reeves fork ends. Regarding the DH logos on the interplane struts, from the picture they look the part, I would suggest sticking them on to the wood with some clear varnish and coat over with the same material to protect them. Do check on a scrap print as the colours may smudge with solvent or water based varnishes. Regarding the slide in wing pairs, there has to be some kind of wing fixing both at top and bottom to keep the wings attached to the fuse sides. Isn't it so? Once you are satisfied with the, dihedral, sweep back, incidence etc on all four, and all the nuts on flying, landing incidence and cabane wires are thread locked, you should be able to undo the wing fixings and slide the left and right pair out for transportation. You will have to make a fixture that attaches to the wing roots and supports the wing pairs when they are not fixed to the fuse. After a couple of flying sessions the wires may need a bit of tweaking as they may stretch a little
  10. And the point that by introducing the voltage regulator/UBEC one is introducing an additional piece of equipment with multiple individual component that can fail. Had one yesterday at the field. Post recovery of the model it was investigated and found that the voltage regulator had no output. Radio was a Jeti so logs are awaited for a conclusive proof.
  11. Old saying "All locks are for gentlemen". And to that I add, "Locks are only an opportunity for the thief"
  12. Another aspect we need to be aware and cautious about. Very often in order to ascertain if the seller is a genuine one, we insist on seller posting pictures of the article for sale along with a piece of paper with the sellers name, date etc. In response to a similar request by me to a seller on FB (who I almost suspected to be scammer) sent me picture of the engine he purportedly had for sale with photoshopped piece of paper with his name and date. It was easy to spot due it being a shoddy photoshop plus my initial suspicion. But the risk of an unsuspecting buyer or the scammer getting better and using technology for deceiving calls for ever more vigilance on part of the buyer.
  13. Once you have determined the correct (new) positions for the mounting holes on the firewall drill and install threaded inserts. Having taken a look at the manual, I see that the fuel tank needs to be installed through the wing opening in the fuse and the tank neck sits in a hole in the firewall. Two methods come to my mind, if the tank can reach the firewall so can a blind nut, using the methods suggested by other members to guide the blind nut in position. The other way would be to enlarge the tank hole, insert the blind nut, using a finger through the hole to guide and support it while using the other hand and suitable magnet guide the blind nut till it seats in the drilled hole. While still being supported thread the screw and tighten till completely seated in wood, repeat three more times. If you are worried about the enlarge hole fill that up with some hard foam to support the tank neck
  14. The ARF companies must hate people like you 😜
  15. I have a NGH 38. Test ran fine upright on the bench, later installed inverted on a locally made copy of H9 giant stik and ran fine. Not a power house by any means. But was adequate and will be adequate for a quartet TM. On the Stik I chose that engine as I needed all the nose weight so used the metal mount and the engine. Must have had 30/40 flights without any issues till I managed to get a DLE 40cc twin and more power. On the TM, if you look from the front the cowl cheeks bulge outwards and they have sufficient gap between them and the fuselage sides. The cheeks being bulged create a low pressure inside the cowl and help extract all the hot air. All you need to ensure is that all the air going in is directed over the fins as closely as possible and it will work fine
  16. The cowl cheek area looks a bit worked upon?
  17. Does the instrument light have a working LED bulb inside? (I half expect to hear a "yes")πŸ˜ƒ Regarding the NGH, if you use it please ensure perfect baffle. The TM cowl opening is as such is not very conducive for model engine rotation direction and on top of that the petrol engines run hotter than glow.
  18. Regarding the grommets, was pulling your leg RichardπŸ˜€ Falcon kit did not come with the drain grommets. I got them laser cut in fiber. Plan was to install every single one of them, and also burn the drain holes through the fabric. Installed a few and then left them off. I still have them, let me see if I can post a picture later today, take a look and see if that is what you want. If you decide in affirmative, I can always pop them in an envelope and send it across.
  19. That transponder looks πŸ™Œ Are you planning to do the drain grommets as well πŸ˜‰
  20. Martin, when I said the RCV ran hotter, I did not intend to say it was overheating. It was more like, that's the nature of the beast!. Especially when I first ran the engine I was rather surprised. But then the engine never failed me in flight. I mostly mix my own fuel and have to rely on what's available in terms of synthetic lubricant so sometimes it would be 100% synthetic Klotz techniplate or the 20% castor mixed Klotz super techniplate. I think I ran the engine on both and did not face any issues. On a different note I do have a NiB 91 CD that is saved for a suitable project someday. And for the sheer experience of it I am trying to acquire one of the SP's I too would suggest that Lindsay run the RCV on the model, that is what the original builder intended to use. I am sure he will face o issues once correct baffling is in place.
  21. I had been wondering about those inspection discs and had intended to ask how you shaped them. Thanks for showing. How are these attached to the fabric? Glued on or done like the full scale?
  22. The Falcon metal work was mostly steel with the shackles for horns being brass. All the control horns were out of G10. Pity that Chris had to wind up. I had approached him for another set of parts but he expressed his inability
  23. Hello Martin, yes that is based on my personal experience. I had bought one from Weston UK long back (think 2008/9 maybe) bench ran it then and was horrified to note the hot case while running it on the bench (my standard check being able to momentarily put my finger on bottom of the case while the engine was running). That led me put the engine away . During the lockdown bored took the engine apart and was able to service the engine and run it again. Was informed by Weston that the hotter running is normal. Flew the engine on my Goldberg Chipmunk where it was sufficiently exposed in side mount configuration and it performed satisfactorily. Best was the quizzical looks from others at the filed who wanted to know what kind of two stroke was it and were told it wasn't one πŸ˜ƒ Here is a short video of the engine being test run post the lockdown rebuild, I may have used the original muffler elsewhere and hence used one from OS 95 that was hand
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