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Manish Chandrayan

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Everything posted by Manish Chandrayan

  1. The ARF companies must hate people like you 😜
  2. I have a NGH 38. Test ran fine upright on the bench, later installed inverted on a locally made copy of H9 giant stik and ran fine. Not a power house by any means. But was adequate and will be adequate for a quartet TM. On the Stik I chose that engine as I needed all the nose weight so used the metal mount and the engine. Must have had 30/40 flights without any issues till I managed to get a DLE 40cc twin and more power. On the TM, if you look from the front the cowl cheeks bulge outwards and they have sufficient gap between them and the fuselage sides. The cheeks being bulged create a low pressure inside the cowl and help extract all the hot air. All you need to ensure is that all the air going in is directed over the fins as closely as possible and it will work fine
  3. The cowl cheek area looks a bit worked upon?
  4. Does the instrument light have a working LED bulb inside? (I half expect to hear a "yes")😃 Regarding the NGH, if you use it please ensure perfect baffle. The TM cowl opening is as such is not very conducive for model engine rotation direction and on top of that the petrol engines run hotter than glow.
  5. Regarding the grommets, was pulling your leg Richard😀 Falcon kit did not come with the drain grommets. I got them laser cut in fiber. Plan was to install every single one of them, and also burn the drain holes through the fabric. Installed a few and then left them off. I still have them, let me see if I can post a picture later today, take a look and see if that is what you want. If you decide in affirmative, I can always pop them in an envelope and send it across.
  6. That transponder looks 🙌 Are you planning to do the drain grommets as well 😉
  7. Martin, when I said the RCV ran hotter, I did not intend to say it was overheating. It was more like, that's the nature of the beast!. Especially when I first ran the engine I was rather surprised. But then the engine never failed me in flight. I mostly mix my own fuel and have to rely on what's available in terms of synthetic lubricant so sometimes it would be 100% synthetic Klotz techniplate or the 20% castor mixed Klotz super techniplate. I think I ran the engine on both and did not face any issues. On a different note I do have a NiB 91 CD that is saved for a suitable project someday. And for the sheer experience of it I am trying to acquire one of the SP's I too would suggest that Lindsay run the RCV on the model, that is what the original builder intended to use. I am sure he will face o issues once correct baffling is in place.
  8. I had been wondering about those inspection discs and had intended to ask how you shaped them. Thanks for showing. How are these attached to the fabric? Glued on or done like the full scale?
  9. The Falcon metal work was mostly steel with the shackles for horns being brass. All the control horns were out of G10. Pity that Chris had to wind up. I had approached him for another set of parts but he expressed his inability
  10. Hello Martin, yes that is based on my personal experience. I had bought one from Weston UK long back (think 2008/9 maybe) bench ran it then and was horrified to note the hot case while running it on the bench (my standard check being able to momentarily put my finger on bottom of the case while the engine was running). That led me put the engine away . During the lockdown bored took the engine apart and was able to service the engine and run it again. Was informed by Weston that the hotter running is normal. Flew the engine on my Goldberg Chipmunk where it was sufficiently exposed in side mount configuration and it performed satisfactorily. Best was the quizzical looks from others at the filed who wanted to know what kind of two stroke was it and were told it wasn't one 😃 Here is a short video of the engine being test run post the lockdown rebuild, I may have used the original muffler elsewhere and hence used one from OS 95 that was hand
  11. As Martin said, the 58 and other CD designs spin standard size props. The engine will develop power roughly equivalent to a conventional 52 four stroke, and run hotter and provide some useful nose weight. Baffled correctly it will run fine and carry out it's business
  12. Good amount of excellent metal work there Richard. I am sure these are neither supplied in the Traplet/Sarik package nor shown on the plans.
  13. The slats are working beautifully 👍. Don't forget to install the missing fourth bolt on the front interplane strut top plate😃
  14. I had corresponded with them when they had started to list Lasers. Was categorically told that they do not ship international
  15. Yeah! The only way for international customers is to have a few friends in UK.
  16. I use the Teflon tape as a standard practice on all my four stroke exhausts, seals up the threads nicely. Regarding the question from Cymaz, while the tape is glow fuel tolerant , and will also seal the needle threads, I would be more worried about the teflon tape pieces making way to the fuel passages in the NV assembly, this can happen as needles may need opening and closing/reinsertion and that can cause the tape to shed some pieces. The O ring on the needle is what seals and keeps the needle snug in the housing. If you have play change the O ring. The fuel tube trick you have already employed should be also working fine
  17. Martin, If you need nose weight, use Sub C NiCd or NiMh 5 cell pack (6V) if you would rather not add much of nose weight go with a 1500/2000 mAh 2S LiFe and you will easily get the 5, 10 minutes flight . As suggested by the moderator, put in a few flights , charge back and see what was the consumption like
  18. 1 cubic inches equates to 16.4 cc (rounded off). Or in other words, an engine labelled as 100 is 16.4 cc (not always technically correct as manufacturers approximate the displacement to label the engine). That first conversion factor if remembered will always help one to quickly convert from cc to ci or vice versa
  19. Forgot to mention, before starting to set sweep back, dihedral and incidences make sure that the cabane structure is all square. The cabane wires can be adjusted to ensure that the entire frame is square and once correctly tensioned imparts rigidity to the structure.
  20. Happy to help Geoff, been that route with my Falcon Tiger Moth (with similar help from forum members here and elsewhere). To find the dihedral height where the angle is known, using a protractor at correct angles draw a line equal to the desired span. Measure height from baseline and you are done. Or else use a bit of high school Trigonometry. I did not have an incidence gauge when I was doing my quarter scale Tiger Moth. I used my smart phone to set the lower planes to the desired angle.
  21. Geoff, you will have to do what was done by the full scale. Jack up and level the fuse. Ensure that it does not move. Attach lower wings to the fuse (support the wings with whatever is required. I had made trestles). Block the lower wings up to required dihedral (4.5 degrees if I recall correctly). Fix the interplane struts and mount the top wing. Now attach the landing wires and adjust them so that the dihedral and incidence is correctly maintained. Once done you can remove the trestle/support from under the wing and the landing wires will take the weight of the wings. If the interplane struts are correctly made the top wing will automatically show a dihedral of 2/2.5 degrees. Attach and adjust the incidence wires and the flying wires. Check for sweep back, incidence etc and adjust as required. Fashion a root support so that the wings come off in pair. Every time you set up or disassemble the trestles will come in handy
  22. Apart from the low fuel tank position this could also happen when the high speed needle is open too far out. Try starting the engine, with the prime it should start and draw fuel. Tune up the high speed needle and then see if the fuel still goes back from the carb. Is the engine mounted in a model? Is the model a tail dragger?
  23. Most good bearings have the sizes mentioned on them. Look for the same nomenclature when procuring new ones and size issue is resolved
  24. This happens when the metal/metallic layer backing of the LCD starts to deteriorate with age. Have seen this happen to a kept in original case (with silica gel packs) in a new Futaba 9CAP . Luckily the spare LCD was available then
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