Paul james 8

Posted by Manish Chandrayan on 31/01/2019 10:11:52: Call for help! Confession!! I am guilty (before some of you choose to berate). I have some how managed to round off the hex recess on one of the screws that hold the rocker cover on my 150. Current situation being neither a metric nor a SAE allen key is able to get a grip. And no, the keys themselves are fine as they work perfect on the other screw. Any ideas on how to open the screw that has the knackered hex head ? Edited By Manish Chandrayan on 31/01/2019 10:12:27 If you can find a pin punch that is the right size to fit the head of the screw, give it a sharp tap with a light hammer and it will very often allow you to unscrew a screw that has this problem. If it is still difficult you might try an "easy out". I've got a good selection of those if you get stuck.

Posted by Chris Walby on 08/01/2019 12:35:36: Off topic Laser engines are not the core business of AEG engineering and if anyone who thinks they could make a profit making quality engines is plane deluded. There are hundreds of thousands of pounds of CNC machines manufacturing various parts and Laser engines are fitted in as an when. As it would appear that this might have been aimed at my comment relating to manufacturing engines I'll just respond to that. I've been in the engineering business for a good while now having been involved in design, development and production. I've done quite well from being deluded along the way and have learned that actually making all the parts of ones own product isn't always the way to optimise production and profitability. The thing to be tightly in control of is the design of the product, ensuring that the specifications of each part means that they can be made by anyone with the appropriate equipment. Risking massive investment in owning the manufacturing equipment is not always the way forward on relatively low production rate products. Buying in machined parts and assembling them to arrive at the end product works well for my range of precision gas flow measuring equipment, the same concept could easily be applied to an engine, which is a relatively straightforward engineering product. I won't bore you with any more of my thoughts as it isn't really truly on topic, merely relevant to your post.

Having followed this recently I feel that I should confess to owning some engines that aren't in models. I have more than one motorcycle as well It is interesting to hear that an in demand product such as the Laser V engines are out of production at the moment. Is it because they have technical issues or is there some sort of commercial reason I wonder? I demand is not met by supply the problem is that alternatives will be used by potential customers. (Not a dig at you Jon) As an engineer myself I have to wonder if it might be a good time to consider manufacturing an alternative multi cylinder British made engine. Not all are looking to fly with electric power; I don't find it very enjoyable personally but that could partly be an age thing

Posted by Nigel R on 23/11/2018 11:03:28: "Don't really want to proiritise flap control over ailerons by giving each flap servo a separate channel so will tinker with a flap servo and see about altering the internal configuration." Don't bother. Buy a servo reverser widget from HobbkyKing. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-3-channel-servo-speed-direction-regulator.html Will do flap speed control for all 3 outputs, one of which is reversed. If you don't want speed control, a plain reverser: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigytm-servo-signal-reverser.html I've seen these but never used them (as the need has not previously arisen) but have seen some comments suggesting they can be problematic. It is an option I will bear in mind for the future.

Posted by Denis Watkins on 23/11/2018 10:22:47: Posted by Paul james 8 on 22/11/2018 23:29:08: Posted by Denis Watkins on 22/11/2018 21:43:44: Do we not just put the pushrod on the other side of the servo arm, as we did pre computer radio. In certain circumstances yes indeed, not unfortunately in the one I'm faced with here. I need matching servo travels from a "Y" lead or, I'm coming to think, a 7 channel receiver so I can have 4 channels dedicated to the flaps and ailerons. Sorry to go on Paul, half of us use single servo Y lead aileron control, and with 4 channel, And precomputer radio we managed The pushrods are adjustable, and can easily be set for equal travel 4 channels in the wing is great, but 4 servos too, where you already have what is needed Your need can be accomplished with Y leads, and adjustable length aileron pushrods, and once that it is done, then that is the end of it once trimmed All understood but in this case it isn't quite that straightforward as I tried to explain above. I can't readily use a "Y" lead on the flaps due to on of the servos needing to be revered so the option is to use a servo reverser as mentioned by Nigel or to allocate two channels to the flaps to get one reversed. As I can "Y" lead the ailerons without any trouble that is all feasible with the 6 channel rx.

Given it some thought and think I will put both ailerons into the aileron channel using a "Y" lead than use the gear and aux1 for the flaps. I can get the up/down aileron differential by biasing the servo arms a little forward when the ailerons are level.

Posted by Denis Watkins on 22/11/2018 21:43:44: Do we not just put the pushrod on the other side of the servo arm, as we did pre computer radio. In certain circumstances yes indeed, not unfortunately in the one I'm faced with here. I need matching servo travels from a "Y" lead or, I'm coming to think, a 7 channel receiver so I can have 4 channels dedicated to the flaps and ailerons.

Tried taking a 3003 apart but the motor and pot are soldered into the pcb

Any particular shade of blue??

Hi John, All understood. Don't really want to proiritise flap control over ailerons by giving each flap servo a separate channel so will tinker with a flap servo and see about altering the internal configuration. Although we get around the direction of servo travel by using separate channels these days it would still be useful to be able to buy "handed" servos for jobs like this. Thanks for the warning about dodgy receivers, I will be careful what I get.

Having followed the very helpful instructions I got the binding done, connected it all up and its seems to be working Unfortunately one of the matched flap servos is faulty so I replaced that with a Futaba one but it doesn't seem to move at the same rate as the other one so I will put a second, matching Futaba in the other side and work out how to reverse it. I pent a bit of time tinkering with settings, the menu seems fairly logical and the setting up went fine. I dialed in a bit of aileron expo and even adjusted the flap servo speed so they don't move at the speed of a top end rat trap. If I had to find a weak point it is the roller jobbie; sometimes when rollering a fair few turns it is possible to inadvertently push it down and change what is being set. No big problem and I'm sure I will get used to it. I'm now in search of some compatible 8 channel receivers so I can set up models with gear as well. Thanks again for the info, it was invaluable!!.

Hi John, That is exactly the sort of answer I needed so a big thank you for taking the time to explain it so clearly. I will have a go at binding one of the receivers to the transmitter (or vice versa) and see if I can get it all to work. I did hear that the methodology varies a bit from the Futaba system but I guess it will soon appear fairly logical.

Firstly, before I'm shot down in a hail of bullets I have tried to get my head around this before asking my specific question. The answers are no doubt out there but my single cell brain is struggling. Having flown quite successfully using 35mHz radio I'm diving into the perils of 2.4gHz to hopefully allow me to use models with IC engines and sparky ignition things. I have a DX8 TX and a couple of AR6200 RX to start with. I want to put a receiver in a model with individual aileron control and both flaps working from the flap switch, flap servos connected to a "Y" harness. Question is.....which RX channels should I use and how do I designate the flap switch to whichever channel is flaps? I guess flaps can only be either "gear" or "Aux1" ? Doing this on my Futaba T9CHP was simple but not sure it will be so simple with the DX8

Posted by Ron Gray on 24/09/2018 10:26:10: Here you go If there was enough interest I could make up a few sleeve nuts like this but with a second sleeve extending from the front to take the spinner attachment. That way you would have the best of both worlds, with a better secured prop and a true running attachment point at the front. I'll probably end up making one for my own 200 V twin anyway when I get round to fitting it to the Christen Eagle. Just a thought.

Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 26/09/2018 14:02:49: Ron pretty much has it covered to be fair. A single tank with two clunks or two separate tanks are needed. A T piece wont work. Inverted is fine but just make sure you remember to lower the tank so its in line with the carbies. No on board glow but twin remote's like Ron suggests are a good idea. That or wire the plugs in series and use a single 2-2.4v battery to power both. Wooden props are fine if you keep them tight. Menz, fiala, APC, falcon...there are many good props out there. I like wood in the large sizes as they are cheaper, easier to drill for our sleeve nut, lighter (better throttle response and leaner slow run setting) and usually give good downline breaking. They also impose less load on the crankshaft in the event of a prang. I guess the best advice is to not worry about it too much. Treat it like a single cylinder engine, all of the usual rules apply about tank position, cooling, glow connectors etc. The only difference is that there is two of everything. Its the same with tuning as well. You essentially have two engines to tune, the fact that they are linked together is not really important. You start both 'engines' and the job is to sync them up. Tune one for maximum power, then tune the other for the same. Double check the first is still ok and you are good to go. In terms of prop size, i guess 18x8 would be a good start. 17x8 will give more power, but it will rev pretty fast so might give a noise problem. An 18x8 menz wood hits about 7700-8k and that is plenty of revs for an engine that size. Many thanks to all who have replied and offered information, I picked up a few brand new Menz 18 x 8 props recently so one of them should do nicely by the sounds of it. Next job is to round up all the models that I'm not going to use and get them advertised so I have enough room to swing the proverbial cat before I do any further builds or refurbs . I will have a look on the website to see what I can find out about the sleeve nut as mine didn't come with one of those fitted.

Peachy flying there Simon!!! Given me a bit of enthusiasm to get mine finished and flying Hope you get many more fun filled flights from your model.

I'm looking to put a 200 V twin Laser glow engine into a Flair Christen Eagle and have a few questions to ask: The fuselage has a bulkhead that should be OK to fit the engine to via the standoffs but it looks as though it will need to be fitted inverted to avoid chopping the cowl about, will that be OK? I've heard that the V twins need a separate fuel tank for each cylinder, there is a fair bit of room for the tank but I wondered whether I could get away with a single tank fitted with 2 clunk tubes? Is there any down side to fitting alternative exhausts on these, or extending the existing ones using heat resistant silicone tube to run the fuel/oil residue away from the fuselage? I have remote glow leads for the engine, is the procedure to fire up one cylinder at a time, then get the second one going? I guess if it is running at all getting the second one going shouldn't be too tricky? Is there any need to pressurise the fuel tank from the exhausts? None of my single cylinder Lasers seem to need this. Are wooden props a definite "no no" on this engine? Either way does anyone have a starting size suggestion for the prop? Any other advice or info greatly appreciated, I've had some really useful info from Jon in the past when rebuilding my collection of singles.

Posted by J D 8 on 23/09/2018 11:33:34: Engine rocker box's radiator and fuel filler filler cap add to the look up front.Wind driven pump [ leggo part ] Vickers gun, Aldis gun sight and wind screen under center section. Pilot is my original 1960's Action man. The upper wing was originaly held on by saddle clamps and 8 screws and took an age to put on,however a couple of years ago modified it with hooks holding the leading edge to the cabain and two wing bolts up through plate at the the rear. Edited By J D 8 on 23/09/2018 11:34:26 Really handy photos John. I'm thinking of making a louvred aluminium front panel for mine with some mesh behind it, should allow plenty of air through.

Posted by cymaz on 23/09/2018 08:36:38: No offence taken about your engine. I have been using 3 of them for a few years....no problems as yet. My Number 1 build-man got them from ***this*** page on the site. That is a big model! Should be very impressive in the air. Pity they don't show better photos of the built models on the DB page. Glad you didn't take offence over my observations on the engine, it appears that we have to be very aware of the risk of offending snowflakes wherever we dare to tread these days. Good forums here I reckon, I've had a lot of really helpful advice since getting back into the hobby.

Posted by cymaz on 23/09/2018 06:55:03: A club mate and I will be building the Giant Mannock. Tried for 3 hours to measure up a variety of Zenoah engines but none would fit into the front completely. In the end we settled for an Evolution 33gx I had spare. Hopefully we can tale enough good photos to start a proper thread over the winter/ early 2019. When you say "giant" is that a bigger version of the Major Mannock? If so did you just scale the plans up? Hopefully it doesn't infringe forum etiquette to mention that those Evolution engines are pretty poorly made; I had one and the big end just wore away, the crank pin was used as the inner journal of the needle roller but was way too soft for the job.

Posted by J D 8 on 22/09/2018 21:42:01: On mine cooling air exits through a slot in the base of the firewall and a hole in the top [ removable ] cowling where the engine rocker box peeps through. Will post some pics of some details. Thanks John, that will be very helpful.

Posted by kc on 22/09/2018 17:49:41: The plan for Mannock and Major Mannock is available from DB Sport & Scale Thanks for that. I was being tight fisted as I already have the fully built model so only needed minor additional info. Always worth asking for others experience of their builds I reckon. I tend to adopt the adage that while "a wise mane learns from his mistakes", "a wiser one learns from the mistakes of others"

Posted by J D 8 on 22/09/2018 17:28:45: Had my Major Mannock as an oil soaked engineless hulk over twenty years ago. Still get it out a few times a year As original the engine had a heck of a lot downthrust,the sort of amount you may see on an old type free flight model.Now it has about three degrees down and no side thrust. Engine is an Enya 90 four stroke which is ample. Aileron is on bottom wing only from one central servo via pushrods and bellcranks,elevators and rudder are pull pull cable.[ each elevator has it's own ] While not totaly neccesary mine is fitted with flying/landing wires [ I like the look and the whistle in the wires as it comes by ]. As for flying it is very much an aircraft of the early era of flight.Take off in anything more than a light breeze needs to be into wind,if you do not it will turn its self into wind or dig a wingtip in. Touchdown is much the same,on rollout as soon at the tail goes down it turns into wind. Try turning with ailerons on their own and it just leans over and keeps going straight until the elevator sort of shoves it around in a wallowing way. However like many early aeroplanes rudder is the primary turning control and a good bootfull along with the aileron [ in fact it turns nicely on rudder alone] will stand it on a wingtip in a mo,and with a dose of up elevator it will turn very tight to get on the tail of that Fokker. Cheers John. Muchly appreciated John! I will aim at three degrees of down thrust when installing the new bearers. I'm inclined to make a 3/8" ply plate to go between the fuselage sides with the cut out for the engine, I guess I will need to cut a few vent slots into the bottom of the engine bay to allow some cooling air to pass through as well, any info on how you achieved that along with any other photos you have would be appreciated. I think it will easily stand the added weight of a layer of fine glass cloth in the engine and fuel tank bays to assist in the fuel proofing. It will be interesting to see if any authority is added by including ailerons in the top wing but I take on board the comments about using rudder, as I had to do that with the Flair SE5A, to get decent turns. It needs a bit of detailing but I'm not going over the top with it as it is never going to be a true scale model, as it is likely that I'll need to cut the top of the fuselage off at the front I may alter it to a rounded top section a bit more like the SE5A while I'm at it. Definitely one for those calmer days when landing and take off can be directly into wind but I couldn't resist it at the price and it hasn't got any oil soaking yet I'm also doing a DB Sport and Scale 1/4 size Pup which is a very old (MK1) kit that was started a good while ago, probably before your Mannock saw the start of its oil soaking. That one will be a nice addition to my biplane fleet

Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 22/09/2018 16:27:22: Posted by Paul james 8 on 22/09/2018 16:00:14: It currently has one of those awful electric motor things in the front (no pun intended). Or indeed achieved. "pun1 pʌn/ noun noun: pun; plural noun: puns 1. a joke exploiting the different possible meanings of a word or the fact that there are words which sound alike but have different meanings." BEB "currently" "electric motor" Oh well not to worry.... Pip pip old bean.

I've just acquired one of these in good condition, the previous owner found the ailerons in just the bottom wing not too responsive so added them to top as well. It currently has one of those awful electric motor things in the front (no pun intended) which I plan to remove to make way for a nice four stroke glow engine. I have a freshly rebuilt Saito 115 which I reckon will be more than enough; they are a light engine for their size so should fit in well enough. Has anyone got one of these or the plans as I'd like to try and find the baseline down and side thrust to apply when I fit the new engine bearers.