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Paul james 8

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  1. Paul james 8
    I have a Flair Bristol F2b that I bought part built. My current job is fitting the interplane struts. With the top wing attached at the cabane struts the rear wooden struts fitted well at the length suggested on the plan. I'm now looking to make the front struts but the leading edge of the top wing seems too low. Looking from the end the lower wing seems to have around the incidence I would expect (governed by all the meccano hanging off the bottom of the fuselage) but the top wing seems to have a fair bit less incidence, which would require the front struts to be a fair bit shorter than the plan. When I mention plans I don't have all of them, just the part that has been cut out and glued to the sample struts by the previous owner. Before I go any further is anyone out there able to advise on some reference dimensions from their plans or finished model? Perhaps I need to extend the front cabane struts a bit to lift the leading edge of the top wing and then make up the front 4 struts to suit? I'd be interested to hear what the dimensions you might have for the height from the centre of the leading edges of the wings and the same for the trailing edges. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to get the model ready to fly at the Flair meeting on 6th August if possible.
  2. Paul james 8
    Agree with everything that Jon has said but I still collect the older engines and have facilities to make replacement parts. I do this as part of my hobby, not as a business. Please get in touch if you have any older ones that you can't use as I could be interested, if not to rebuild then possibly for spare parts.
  3. Paul james 8

    RCV58CD

    Paul james 8 replied to Andy J's topic in IC Engines

    The cylinder wasn't tight in mine, I was referring to comments made by others. I can see now that it wasn't the cylinder that was tight in those instances but the cylinder bearing. Having stripped and rebuilt mine I'm pretty convinced that the timing was out. The exhaust outlet pipe was running blue with excess heat, I polished it up and now it is just a light straw colour. I did contact the Weston folks but the guy I needed to speak with was away for a few days so I just got on with investigating it. The internals were in top shape so that was reassuring.???
  4. Paul james 8

    RCV58CD

    Paul james 8 replied to Andy J's topic in IC Engines

    I messed around for ages trying to set the engine up it got got, wouldn't rev and wouldn't tick over so I eventually decided to bite the bullet and strip it down. This was a brand new engine when I got it and had never seen fuel. The internals all looked fine so I carefully reassembled it making sure that the timing was spot on. Put it in my test stand and fired it up and soon had it running sweet. I then had to put it back in the model inverted so hoped that it would still be fine. Took the model to the field yesterday and fired it up, gave it some final adjustments and it was great! Due to a strong cross wind I didn't maiden the plane but did taxiing trials successfully. I'm tending to think that the timing may have been one tooth out, the way it ran was typical of bad timing. They are easy enough to work on so it would be interesting to see if anyone else who is having problems can cure them by setting up the timing correctly.
  5. Paul james 8

    RCV58CD

    Paul james 8 replied to Andy J's topic in IC Engines

    Interesting thread which I chanced upon when looking for info on my own RCV58CD. I'm surprised that the cylinder is found to be a tight fit in the upper casting, it has to turn freely as the piston goes up and down. Was it perhaps the bearing being tight that required the force to get it apart? As for the comments about removing bearing seals/shields once the outer part is removed the part sitting on the balls is the "cage" and needs to be left on situ to space the balls. Some bearings don't have these and are known as "crowded" for obvious reasons. The latter aren't used in model engine applications to my knowledge. The issue with my engine is bad running, it was new when I got it so I ran a good amount of Weston Prosynth 2000 10% through it to run it in. The problem is that it just won't run right. I can set it so that it peaks with the top end needle just over 1 turn out, I can then get a reasonable tickover (not sure of exact speeds as my tacho isn't working properly) . I can drop it down slowly from high revs to tickover with good transition but as soon as I start to open it up again it splutters and cuts out. I'm using OS FS plugs as recommended and the fuel runs fine in other engines. Compression when cold feels fine but drops off a bit when it gets hot. It does seem to run hot but won't run if the top end is richened further. Anyone got any ideas??
  6. Paul james 8
    If using the puller often as not once you have a bit of tension wound on you can shift the offending part by giving the puller a sharp tap with a hammer. As for cleaning I always use boiling water and aerial biological washing powder, cleans them up a treat. Any light surface corrosion or tarnishing I get off with scotchbrite.
  7. Paul james 8
    Posted by cymaz on 11/10/2020 12:24:08: There is a bit of chat here All handy stuff but the comments on different versions makes me still very keen to try and find the instructions. Must be in touch with my female side as apparently real blokes never read instructions. I'm having to sort a prime example of that on the current build of what was supposed to have been an unstarted kit; the previous owner glued the elevator hinges into the stab without fitting the bracing wire so I've had to dig all that apart.
  8. Paul james 8
    Posted by cymaz on 11/10/2020 11:51:35: Does this help? Some very handy info there so thanks for that. I wonder if mine is an earlier version as he refers to changes? Mine is in the red and white colour scheme that I personally prefer 😊👍
  9. Paul james 8
    Sounds like it should be fun! Got to finish off a nice Kyosho 50 Spitfire then on to the Pitts. I'd still like to find the build manual if possible so that I have the correct c of g etc. Last thing I want is for it to be tail heavy. I read somewhere that with a 120 up front it didn't need any additional weight to balance. That is always good as I hate adding lead, I'd rather put a bigger engine in.
  10. Paul james 8
    I think it will be a pretty impressive model when finished.
  11. Paul james 8
    Thanks again, sounds as though the saito 125 should be enough although the 180 might be more fun 😊😊 Did you find it prone to stalling?
  12. Paul james 8
    Posted by john stones 1 on 10/10/2020 16:05:48: Not got the manual Paul, but I recall no quirks with the model build, one of the best I ever had, cracking model. Useful feedback John so thanks for that! Did yours have servos for each aileron? I've seen photos of some that seem to have a conventional two servo set up with connecting rods to the top. I usually look through the youtube videos of the various models I'm building and they all seemed to be flying well. What was yours powered by? I've got options of Saito 125, Saito 180 or Laser 200 V twin.
  13. Paul james 8
    Posted by EarlyBird on 10/10/2020 14:30:36: Here? Different model manufacturer I'm afraid but thanks anyway
  14. Paul james 8
    Not sure if this is the correct forum, please advise if not. Having recently bought an unstarted kit of this model I'm looking for a copy of the manual. I can work out most of it obviously but just in case there are any quirky bits.... If anyone has a copy I could borrow or they could scan to PDF it would be much appreciated. Cheers, Paul
  15. Paul james 8
    Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 01/09/2020 14:55:54: Quite right Paul, although you are assuming an airtight crankcase and they arent. We tested running for many hours with the breather closed and there were no negative effects on the engine in terms of its operation. Long term however i suspect that its better to vent the crankcase to try and expel some of the nasties that can accumulate down there. There was also a tendency for the front bearing seal to blow out and then the engine just made a mess! An ideal solution would be a short pipe to a catch tank that can be drained after the flight, but its a bit of a faff. ED is also quite right when he says that with modern thin oils, and with low oil fuel, the whole conversation is becoming less and less relevant. Interesting re. crankcases not being airtight. I'm guessing that the likeliest place for leakage is the front bearing which, as you say can end up with the seals blowing out, just goes to show how much positive pressure can build up. I'm sure that it is possible to run engines without crankcase breathers (I've a fair few OS without) but can't see that having a breather is ever going to be detrimental. As you mention; as far as mess is concerned the more modern fuels with lower viscosity oil and lower oil content should run cleaner but I like the idea of having the venting so the oil can move around and replenish as well as possible.
  16. Paul james 8
    Forgot to mention that on most four strokes some degree of blow by is essential for lubrication of the bottom end of the engine, hard to believe that it is sufficient lubrication to keep them going but it obviously works. It makes proper crankcase ventilation even more important to the wellbeing of our engines.👍👍😊
  17. Paul james 8
    I'm sure we can overlook the split infinitive but the misspelling of the word "inadvertently" is unforgivable! 😂😂👍 Having been involved in flow measurement in my business for many years the debate over crankcase breathers is quite interesting. It isn't just the diameter of pipe that has the influence, overall "dead volume" will also have an effect. On my four strokes I use the shortest run of breather possible with, as others have suggested, the shortest length of small diameter pipe possible, then on to a bigger diameter to the outlet. It is easy to see the effect of a long length of small bore pipe by simply blowing down it. The resistance can be felt quite readilly. When we think about it, the same volume of air is displaced in the crankcase as the capacity of the engine, both on the up and down stroke.  If closed to atmosphere the crankcase pressure will just fluctuate up and down with each stroke.  It will reduce power if not relieved in some way, or as in the case of your engine cut the engine out. Blow by will potentially increase the positive pressure on the power stroke by more than the return of the piston on the exhaust stroke so we end up with an overall positive pressure imbalance, the breather deals with that. Edited By Paul james 8 on 01/09/2020 14:09:06
  18. Paul james 8
    The 62 is now back together with new bearings and a single ring, I've heard from the ring manufacturer that there is no stock of the part I need at the moment but he will advise when more have been made. On to the next one which is much tidier inside, didn't need to change bearings or do a full strip down. It is marked 7S3 on the bearer, has the square fins, top mounted plug and a black irvine type carburettor. I'm guessing it is a 75 so will choose the prop accordingly. It was running a 14x7 when I bought the model.
  19. Paul james 8
    Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 16/06/2020 18:05:14: Paul, it might have got a carb upgrade in the mid 90's when it was still supported. The stroke is 18.8mm so that is where the extra cc went Seems an oddball as I can't imagine measuring it out by 0.4mm on throw? Still the bore is going to be the important thing for a new ring. I've put it back together with the top one in for now, was going to fit a prop on it and noticed that the aluminium part of the prop driver was split right through! How anyone can have tightened it enough to split that I've no idea. I had a look in my box of old engines and hey presto found one that fitted straight on! It was from an old MDS 40 so I guess the engine is now a hybrid laser/MDS?? This is how the cams were when I took it apart, reckon they were right but can you have a quick look to confirm please 👍
  20. Paul james 8
    Posted by David Davis on 16/06/2020 17:55:12: Gacvin Carter is your man for old Laser piston rings. This is for the 61, but he sells them for the 62. **LINK** Thanks for that, have sent him a message 👍👍
  21. Paul james 8

    Paul james 8 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  22. Paul james 8
    Quite a few still seem to use 5/16 UNF?
  23. Paul james 8
    Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 16/06/2020 16:47:46: Posted by Paul james 8 on 16/06/2020 16:05:40: Spares for an old Laser..... I recently acquired another couple of older Laser engines, the smaller of the two is now stripped down fully for new bearings and a good clean (not in that order). I've clumsily broken one of the two piston rings so wonder if replacements are available. On the side of the engine lugs is the number 62 and three initials, the bore is 26.4mm and stroke 18 so by my reckoning 9.8533 cc or around .601 cu inch. If available I'd replace both while it is stripped down. Any clues where these might be found?? Sorry Paul. If its a 62 they were discontinued in 1992 and we no longer support them for spares or service. Your only hope is to either make a new one or there is a guy on ebay who offers replacements. A final option would be to forget it and run it with one. As long as its in the top slot it will run fine. Thanks Jon, it seems a bit of an oddball with a forward tilted plug but what I thought were the later purple Irvine type carb, I thought it would have a super tigre carb back that old?? It has the grub screws holding the carb and exhaust. Might well just stick the one ring in if I can't find one from the eBay guy. One question....why was it called a "62" when it actually measures up quite a bit below that?
  24. Paul james 8
    Spares for an old Laser..... I recently acquired another couple of older Laser engines, the smaller of the two is now stripped down fully for new bearings and a good clean (not in that order). I've clumsily broken one of the two piston rings so wonder if replacements are available. On the side of the engine lugs is the number 62 and three initials, the bore is 26.4mm and stroke 18 so by my reckoning 9.8533 cc or around .601 cu inch. If available I'd replace both while it is stripped down. Any clues where these might be found??
  25. Paul james 8
    Posted by Alan Gorham_ on 02/06/2020 18:58:31: And did you check the wing and tailplane incidence? Like I said, mine needed no downthrust. It was a very neutral flier and it seems strange that yours needed any. I had an OS40FP fitted to mine which is probably close in power to your engine. It's hard to see why you need downthrust. I guess the Thunder Tigre GP42 is similar in weight to the OS, I personally prefer the TT, it tunes really nicely and has bags of power, way better than the 40 LA. I had a good look over the model last night and it seems to have the ailerons slightly up on both sides so I wonder if that is likely to make it lift on power? I've set them both a bit lower to more closely march the profile of the wing section, it will be interesting to see if that helps. As previously mentioned; due to the nature of the kit it is pretty unlikely that any of the incident angles are far out? There is no evidence of damage to the model. Maybe I could move the c of g a little froward from the current position, it is pretty well back at around 33% of chord. Going to see whether what I have changed so far has made a difference first, never a good idea to change too many things without testing one at a time.
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