Nick Stock 2
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Thanks all so much for taking time to reply. I now know that it is pretty much as difficult to achieve as I felt! Saying that, each reply had been delightful to read and highlights practical options for me to consider which answers the post greatly. Best
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Hello forum, going to shoot this one out here - I’d like to think it’s been answered before so lots of valuable input hoped for and appreciated: I can fly IC warbirds to a somewhat decent standard. A decent understanding of rudder use in directing my aircraft as intended as an example. Don’t consider myself an expert hence my post though I am looking to hone my core skills. I am seeking to become more aware of the names and types of manoeuvres so that I can better plan my circuits. I am asking for suggestions for a sequence for a display of scale aerobatics and any accompanying flying tips that assist good flying practise. This with properly prepared flights in kind as opposed to do what I feel in the moment for a bit of a change from what I’ve become accustomed to. P47, Spitfire, Mosquito .100 fs glow, 180 fs glow and 2 x .82 fs are top of my fleet for reference. many thanks
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I’m fitting a Laser 180 in place of an Evolution 33cc gas in a Hangar 9 Spitfire. I presumed I’d be able to reuse the engine mount that the evo was bolted to. The mount is made of aluminium and features a long slot in each beam which 4 non-metric bolts were fastened through. On closer inspection, I am surprised a slot system isn’t risky over the usual holes we normally drill through grp/nylon mounts where there is material front and back of the screws. Furthermore, aligning the Laser 180 to this mount creates an overlap between the slot channel and the engine crank bolt holes. I can only fit four M4 screws as opposed to M5s that I was aiming to use. These will be fastened with nyloc nuts and washers. Do we think this is acceptable or any risk of the engine shifting loose?
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Thanks for all input above. Got to admit, I’ve never seen breaking bad but I feel I don’t have to after this madness.. I bought some antifreeze variant hoping it would do the trick but truth be told after 45 minutes freezing my nads off(!) I really wasn’t having much joy. I think repeated soaks in semi-sizzling antifreeze and vigorous rubbing with a soft scrubber might have helped in the end but only a little. Anyone have a clue why? so I resorted to using a mild abrasive block - a turquoisey/greenish one that normally comes as a rotary tool attachment accessory and buffing after. needless to say, it’s not a perfect finish as new but passable imo. have chosen an 18% klotz synthetic mix fuel 15% nitro to try and avoid this situation next time FYI sink unblocker is the WORST thing to go near these alloys from this experience as I have a few dulled areas as a result but minor changes enough
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Thanks for the tips
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Hi folks just needed to post my question which is relevant here. I’ve tried all sorts of household cleaning products, rubbing alcohol, a particular penetrating form of wd40, hell, even drain unblocker as a mad last resort. Bought an ultrasonic cleaner and repeated the above and concoctions in it but to absolutely no avail. I’m trying to clean or dissolve really the caked on tar like substance which I believe to be burnt castor oil(?) off my Saito silencer. can anyone help guide me? tx
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Understanding the supply chain
Nick Stock 2 replied to Nick Stock 2's topic in R/C Retailers / Distributors / Manufacturers
Seagull happen to list J.Perkins according to that link, so thank you. -
Understanding the supply chain
Nick Stock 2 replied to Nick Stock 2's topic in R/C Retailers / Distributors / Manufacturers
Thanks - who are these wholesalers? Are they familiar names? -
Do manufacturers of ARTF kits tend to supply direct to our retailers or are there distributors or even wholesalers too working in the background? For example, are Seagull, Blackhorse, Kyosho, Hangar 9. I can see that Freewing for example passively mention on their website that they offer discounts for wholesale purchase but other manufacturers seem to refrain from advertising this option.. Any idea in particular, how best to go about buying seagull models in bulk? Thanks in advance if anyone sees and can help.
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Nick Stock 2 joined the community
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In all fairness, I tried with some self adhesive thin rubber imitation material I have on a roll wrapped around the mole grips but it just slipped. End of the day I had no option and aside, it’s not a brand spanking new engine but a tried and tested workhorse and it worked without any damage to the hub other than slight cosmetic. Had to be a practical solution so boasting about how else it could have been done doesn’t really add anything I’m sorry to say. I use a 12” adjustable wrench to tighten my props with significant force. I do get concerned about over tightening so once I get to the point where I’m about to get blue in the face I stop.. any one want to jump in here? best
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Succeess!!! with the cowl screws removed, I was able to wangle the cowl back enough to squeeze in some mole grips around the prop driver. May have scratched it a little in the process but very minorly. It then did not take much force really at all to twist the nut off with a spanner. It’s difficult to make out where the damaged threads are - on the prop shaft or on the nut itself. ive just managed to screw the spinner nut on though at it went on without much fuss. my question now follows, is this nut the appropriate method of securing a prop I.e without the prop retaining nut that come with engine? I presume yes but please could someone advise definitively! thank you all so so much for your support best wishes nick
