Nick Stock 2

Thanks all so much for taking time to reply. I now know that it is pretty much as difficult to achieve as I felt! Saying that, each reply had been delightful to read and highlights practical options for me to consider which answers the post greatly. Best

Hello forum, going to shoot this one out here - I’d like to think it’s been answered before so lots of valuable input hoped for and appreciated: I can fly IC warbirds to a somewhat decent standard. A decent understanding of rudder use in directing my aircraft as intended as an example. Don’t consider myself an expert hence my post though I am looking to hone my core skills. I am seeking to become more aware of the names and types of manoeuvres so that I can better plan my circuits. I am asking for suggestions for a sequence for a display of scale aerobatics and any accompanying flying tips that assist good flying practise. This with properly prepared flights in kind as opposed to do what I feel in the moment for a bit of a change from what I’ve become accustomed to. P47, Spitfire, Mosquito .100 fs glow, 180 fs glow and 2 x .82 fs are top of my fleet for reference. many thanks

I’m fitting a Laser 180 in place of an Evolution 33cc gas in a Hangar 9 Spitfire. I presumed I’d be able to reuse the engine mount that the evo was bolted to. The mount is made of aluminium and features a long slot in each beam which 4 non-metric bolts were fastened through. On closer inspection, I am surprised a slot system isn’t risky over the usual holes we normally drill through grp/nylon mounts where there is material front and back of the screws. Furthermore, aligning the Laser 180 to this mount creates an overlap between the slot channel and the engine crank bolt holes. I can only fit four M4 screws as opposed to M5s that I was aiming to use. These will be fastened with nyloc nuts and washers. Do we think this is acceptable or any risk of the engine shifting loose?

Thanks for all input above. Got to admit, I’ve never seen breaking bad but I feel I don’t have to after this madness.. I bought some antifreeze variant hoping it would do the trick but truth be told after 45 minutes freezing my nads off(!) I really wasn’t having much joy. I think repeated soaks in semi-sizzling antifreeze and vigorous rubbing with a soft scrubber might have helped in the end but only a little. Anyone have a clue why? so I resorted to using a mild abrasive block - a turquoisey/greenish one that normally comes as a rotary tool attachment accessory and buffing after. needless to say, it’s not a perfect finish as new but passable imo. have chosen an 18% klotz synthetic mix fuel 15% nitro to try and avoid this situation next time FYI sink unblocker is the WORST thing to go near these alloys from this experience as I have a few dulled areas as a result but minor changes enough

Thanks for the tips

Hi folks just needed to post my question which is relevant here. I’ve tried all sorts of household cleaning products, rubbing alcohol, a particular penetrating form of wd40, hell, even drain unblocker as a mad last resort. Bought an ultrasonic cleaner and repeated the above and concoctions in it but to absolutely no avail. I’m trying to clean or dissolve really the caked on tar like substance which I believe to be burnt castor oil(?) off my Saito silencer. can anyone help guide me? tx

Seagull happen to list J.Perkins according to that link, so thank you.

Thanks - who are these wholesalers? Are they familiar names?

Do manufacturers of ARTF kits tend to supply direct to our retailers or are there distributors or even wholesalers too working in the background? For example, are Seagull, Blackhorse, Kyosho, Hangar 9. I can see that Freewing for example passively mention on their website that they offer discounts for wholesale purchase but other manufacturers seem to refrain from advertising this option.. Any idea in particular, how best to go about buying seagull models in bulk? Thanks in advance if anyone sees and can help.

In all fairness, I tried with some self adhesive thin rubber imitation material I have on a roll wrapped around the mole grips but it just slipped. End of the day I had no option and aside, it’s not a brand spanking new engine but a tried and tested workhorse and it worked without any damage to the hub other than slight cosmetic. Had to be a practical solution so boasting about how else it could have been done doesn’t really add anything I’m sorry to say. I use a 12” adjustable wrench to tighten my props with significant force. I do get concerned about over tightening so once I get to the point where I’m about to get blue in the face I stop.. any one want to jump in here? best

Succeess!!! with the cowl screws removed, I was able to wangle the cowl back enough to squeeze in some mole grips around the prop driver. May have scratched it a little in the process but very minorly. It then did not take much force really at all to twist the nut off with a spanner. It’s difficult to make out where the damaged threads are - on the prop shaft or on the nut itself. ive just managed to screw the spinner nut on though at it went on without much fuss. my question now follows, is this nut the appropriate method of securing a prop I.e without the prop retaining nut that come with engine? I presume yes but please could someone advise definitively! thank you all so so much for your support best wishes nick

Thank you all for your responses and so swiftly too, I’ve added photos to illuminate things more: first photo showing the nut in it’s position when screwed up to the prop (which I intend to replace anyway once all this is done) second photo showing the nut unwound as far as it goes before the engine simply turns over. Third photo showing how little clearance there is for an adjustable spanner etc to grip to prop driver. photo showing how cowl cannot move backwards due to the centre section of wing being in the way. I will be removing the centre section now to see if I can get the cowl to move backwards in order to revert the driver. I’m going to try and grip it with an adjustable spanner with some soft leathery type material to see if I can get a decent but safe grip. have ordered a piston stop from Amazon which is due to arrive tomorrow but will almost certainly send it straight back. im hoping I can just force this nut off the thread by working it forwards and back. thanks all again nick

Hi Everyone, happy New Year and hope you are weathering the covid storm safely. The prop retaining nut is already screwed on the shaft. It can be tightened up to the prop retaining washer (with the prop behind it) and tightened up no problem. However there was an adapter nut in front of that nut in which the long spinner socket cap screw screws in to to attach the spinner to it all. That nut was only screwed on by the end 2 ish threads and seems as if the previous owner has damaged the end threads of the prop shaft, meaning that the prop retaining nut locks up on it when I try to unscrew it. I also cannot remove the cowl (if I were wanting to remove the engine from the mount) as the spinner backplate and prop cannot be removed to allow this. When the nut locks up when trying to unscrew, I cannot apply any significant force other than that of the engine compression which is not enough to provide enough 'locking force' to push against and the engine simply turns over. I've tried WD-40 fast release penetrant and heating the nut up with a (very small) butane blowtorch. Not powerful enough to get red hot or anything like that but either way, neither have helped much. Would anyone be able to suggest a solution to the above? I've looked in to removing the spark plug and 'dropping cord' in above the piston so that it presses up against the cord before it reaches tdc, providing a locking force to act against .. but I'd hesitate to do something like this without assurance that no harm can come to the engine and which specific cord to use! Other than that, I dread taking a dremel to the prop retaining nut to try and create some 'relief' cuts and I really am concerned that I'll risk damaging the threads of the shaft further, whilst at the moment, there could still be a chance that the damaged threat portion can be cleaned up. Finally, if anyone else is familiar with the type of spinner nut adapter I mentioned earlier (the spinner is an aluminium one that comes included in the arf kit in this case a 33cc H9 spitfire) - is that adapter (same internal and same outside hex size as the engine retaining nut) enough on it's own to replace the prop nut that comes with the engine? I say this for two reasons - 1/ if I've had to wreck the prop retaining nut in the process of getting it off and 2/ so that it grips the shaft with 10+mm of thread instead of 2 threads (2-3mm). Any help incredibly appreciated. Best Nick S.

Pretty self explanatory basically but just hoping to get a better idea before committing to one when they arrive back in stock in December. If all is good, I’ll be putting a 4s glow ic of some sort in mine but has anyone already got this model up and flying well? Seems to be very little coverage on this model on the web.. Huge thanks Nick

Hi folks, got caught out on a take-off with my Seagull P-47 today, just as I’ve started to really get a feel for her flying characteristics in the air and on landing. Lucky, on this occasion the ‘only’ damage was main retracts being ripped clean out of both wings and some minor tears under the wings and a slight dent in the lower front fuse. I’m hoping some of you may be able to offer some advice on my take off technique: I have to start my run up with full back elevator, otherwise the model will simply nose in when any power is fed in. My gear is raked as far forward as possible. Flaps set at half. I was then adding a bit of power just to get the model rolling and then fairly quick on to full beans. as I get to full throttle, I quickly release the amount of elevator I’m holding to balance the model on the main gear but doing my best to let it run for a bit to build up speed. I have been lifting off the ground early like this and have come dangerously close to tip stalling. Today I tried feeding power in more gently and trying to ‘feel’ the elevator amount needed so that I was on the main gear, balanced, before smoothly progressing to full power. The model lifted early, stalled, hit the deck and subsequently slid across the rough. Has any one else gone through a learning curve with heavier tail dragging warbirds and have advice? Nick

All great and interesting responses so thanks everyone. I'm gluing wood to wood for those who asked. Personally, I am set (no pun) on using an epoxy though interesting that some of you have used aliphatic etc to good effect. Noted now that (particularly) excessive use of epoxy comes with a high weight cost, but this is line I intend to straddle because of my slight paranoia of the tail snapping off under heavy load in flight. I'm going with Araldite Standard dual syringe which is repositionable for up to 2 hours and I know will set rock hard.

I'm nearly at the point where I want to assemble the horizontal tail assembly to the fuselage. I have plenty of 20 minute cartridges from screwfix lying around but would prefer to use something more suitable. Any suggestions here? Brands? Cure time?     Edited By Nick Stock 2 on 15/08/2018 12:21:03