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Posts posted by EvilC57
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I find that IPA (isopropyl alcohol) takes shrink covering adhesive marks off.
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20 minutes ago, PDB said:
Have you calibrated your temperature and flow rate? https://colorfabb.com/how-to-print-with-lw-pla
Yes, I’m familiar with that page.
The graphic on the page regarding the variables of temperature, speed and flow, and how they all interact is interesting and always worth bearing in mind when printing.
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Strange that your LW-PLA parts are coming out heavier bbuzz. Mine with ColorFabb LW came out the same or lighter than suggested for each part in the instructions. Like you, I was careful to spend time setting up the profiles as per Planeprint’s instructions. However I also did a series of test prints, and established that with my Ender 3 V2 I got the best expansion at about 230°C (can’t remember the other parameters now without looking them up).
I’ve subsequently built a second Jetwing encompassing all my suggested strengthening changes, but with winter weather etc. it hasn’t flown yet.
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1 hour ago, GaryW said:
AliExpress is one of the BIG 4 I will never use the other 3 of the 4 are Bangood, ShoddyKing.. I mean Hobbyking...... & Amazon
I much prefer to spend my money with UK Models shops for new stuff and a couple of friends that buy & sell Good Serviceable Secondhand stuff than buy cheap and sometimes overpriced crap quality rc stuff from any of the 4 I mentioned above
I agree with you regarding Amazon. I try to avoid if possible, and prefer eBay for general (non modelling) goods.
However most of my lipos are Turnigy Nanotechs from HobbyKing, and all have proved excellent over the years - and at a fraction of the price of some UK based options.
As for not buying from AliExpress or Banggood, it’s all very well standing by your principles, but you’re doing yourself out of bargains (such as cheaper FMS and Powerfun EDFs as suggested by F57) the rest of us are getting. Still, each to his own.
I have a Tarot gimbal from Banggood which has been very good, and certainly not overpriced crap - far from it in fact. I’ve also bought an number of brushless motors from AE and BG, all of which have been perfectly serviceable.
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3 hours ago, Engine Doctor said:
I was just having a light hearted jibe . Its a quad flying in an orchard so not really interesting or different .
If you put vids out then what do you expect and its not as good as Top Gun Maverick ....is it ?
I am not good at vids but occasionally put pics of work I have done . If someone doesnt like them fine but I like to know.
Ditto.
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Waited 6 minutes and 20 seconds for something a little different to happen, and it didn’t. Can I have my 6 minutes back please!
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This is very topical for me at the moment. I have a 10 year old DX8 Gen 1, which although still working perfectly, is full (i.e. 29 of the 30 model memories are in use). So two weeks ago I gave in to temptation and bought an NX10. So far I can opine as follows, in no particular order:
- The colour LCD is nice, although not particularly high definition, nor any bigger than the old one in the DX8. I don’t think the display is as fast to react to the scroll wheel as the old DX8 with conventional LCD, which has caused me to overshoot and choose the wrong menu item several times. In fact overall I’d say the old DX8 scroll wheel & menu are a bit nicer to use.
- The programmable audio events (voice messages) seem a useful addition, particularly the spoken count down times.
- I particularly like the configurable switches, which allow you to assign functions to any switch of your choosing - which as far as I know I couldn’t do with the DX8.
- The ability to bind to a receiver from within the menu without having to cycle the power while holding down the Bind button is useful.
- The pre flight setup checklist seems a bit limited, and as far as I can tell can’t be sorted alphabetically, which makes it hard to find things. Several things I’ve wanted are not there, and I’m not aware that there’s any way of adding your own items (I stand to be corrected on this).
- The Bind/Engine Kill button although larger, seems more of a reach for my little hands than the old one.
- I like the addition of the centre tone facility, which I’ve enabled for the throttle control. A useful indication of when you’re at half throttle, without having to look down at the box while you’re flying.
- The manual is rubbish.
I guess with 10 years of development you get more bells & whistles. Could I have just carried on with the old Tx? Yes. Am I glad I bought the new one? At the moment, also yes.
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6 hours ago, John Lee said:
That looks like it may be caused by moisture condensation, it's vulnerable to this if you put your transmitter on the ground between flights, or keep it where there are large temperature fluctuations .
I keep my Tx's indoors & use one of these on the field to avoid the issue:
That’s why between flights I always prop my transmitter up against my flight box or somewhere else convenient, facing AWAY from the sun. Lesson learned a number of years ago when I went to pick the Tx up, and noticed that the LCD had completely blacked out where the sun had been shining on it.
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12 hours ago, Keith Billinge said:
I swear by my Speed Flea. Only 9g and it's great! Just plug into the balance lead on any lipo and wait for satellite lock.
KB
Have you found any problems caused by power up glitches KB? I’ve had a Speed Flea 64 for several years now, and I’ve learned that I have to power the model up first, and then attach the the Speed Flea afterwards, and wait for it to initialise. Otherwise (I’m guessing) the electrical spike in the system caused by powering up the ESC afterwards can cause the Flea to malfunction. I have had flights were the unit has failed to register properly despite appearing to boot up correctly, and in each case it’s where I’ve forgotten to power the model up first.
Other than that and the display which is impossible to read in sunlight, it’s a great little device.
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+1 for the Speed Flea.
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+1 for John Norris at LogicRC, who as John Lee says are the UK distributor and main service centre for Spektrum.
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6 minutes ago, Cuban8 said:
Why on earth would the setting allow one to completely blank the display?
I agree, it’s mad! I did nearly lose track of the display a number of years ago. Fortunately that made me aware of the issue, so I’ve been careful to avoid it since. My later transmitters (DX8 and NX10) wisely don’t allow the display to blank out completely. Obviously a design issue with the earlier JR set.
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6 minutes ago, Rob Manser said:
I can't view the video. Could you try again, or a private You Tube link?
Sorry about that Rob. I've reloaded it in a different format. Try it now.
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3 hours ago, Rob Manser said:
Contrast is an interesting one; would they really make the lowest setting invisible? I've got the manual and menu sequence and have tried going to the item blind and adjusting it, but nothing happens.
I rest my case m’lud 🙂…
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Are you sure it’s not just the screen contrast that’s been turned down? I have an old JR transmitter on which it’s possible with the scroll wheel to inadvertently turn the LCD contrast down to the extent that it appears completely blank, when it is in fact powered up - which can make life very difficult if you don’t notice you’ve done it.
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The most well established hybrid system is that used by Toyota, which shares power to the wheels between a petrol engine and electric motor/generators via a planetary gearbox. Efficient, and extremely reliable as it turns out, which is why millions of Toyota Prius hybrids have been used for years all over the world as taxis.
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57 minutes ago, GrumpyGnome said:
Several brands come with spacers................ I think the point was that not all APC props come with spacers, only the electric ones.
I must admit when I wrote my original reply to FB3 I couldn't remember whether APC glow props come with spacers, as it's several years since I've bought any. I know their E props come with spacers though, as I've bought them more recently.
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2 hours ago, Fly Boy 3 said:
Thanks all, apologies wrong thread. agree with Geoff regarding hole diams in props. Can you tell me if washers are available to adapt the diameters, an where can I
purchase them. . Thanks
When you buy APC propellers they come with a a number of adapters of different sizes in the packet.
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Guild fuel proof enamel paint seems OK. I used it to paint the engine bay on a glow model (including over the heat shrink covering) a couple of years ago, and it still looks OK after a good soaking in fuel and general engine gunge.
Available at Leeds Model Shop for £6.79 a tin.
Sign of the times - funnies * Remember this is a family friendly forum and inappropriate postings will be removed without warning.
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