Michael Barclay

My next build will possibly be the Grumman Duck, But it might be a while before I get on with it, as I am thinking of moving.

The 3 mm looks good and easier to bend for complex shapes but I wonder if the weight saving is lost on the extra framework needed to keep it rigid. I will get some and try it.

I use a 6mm depron spar but only as a spacer between upper and lower surface of wings.

I haven't tried it Eric, but will probably do so. Thing is I still have 10 full sheets of 6 mm depron which suits my method of ribless construction. Guess when I eventually run out, I will try it. Does B&Q look alike take grp cloth and epoxy covering? I do like to cover my models. I have seen it, and it seems very pliable, whereas the original stuff is rigid, which again suits my construction system. But that's the nice thing about foam, there is lots to experiment with.

Sorry I don't do build photos Martin, I am always too absorbed with the construction. It's all 6mm Depron. The wing is built in a jig ( it's not folded but built up,) and has just one 2mm ply rib with a small block of hardwood to take the 2.5mm wheel strut. It's covered in one layer of 50 gram cloth with two layers at the wing joints. I think it might be called a stressed wing construction, and it makes very strong wings. All of my builds utilize this method, and II was at one time thinking of doing a video on YouTube but when Depron was discontinued there didn't seem much point.

50 inch span Depron JU87. All covered in 50gram grp cloth and west system epoxy. Scratch build from scaled up 3 view on Wikipedia, and lots of photos. Started out in white winter camo, didn't like it, so changed to two-tone green camo. Didn't like that so added desert camo which I quite like. 1300 grams flying weight. 35/36 900 kv motor.2200 3cell lipo.

Thanks Eric.Mike.

Hello Eric. Looks really nice. You say that you used depron and foamboard. Just wondering which parts are depron and which are foamboard.

I did think that neutral position would be correct, but still wondering if neutral flaps should be included in wing area calculations?

I am just completing my scratch build 50 inch (1.27 m) JU87, and I am considering flap and aileron settings in relation to the aerofoil section, and whether they should be set in line with the lower surface or upper surface as shown in A or B in my rough sketch, or at some point in between. The flaps are fixed to save weight, but adjustable, being mounted on aluminium brackets. The wing cubic load when the flaps and ailerons are included in the wing area is 12, but 15 if excluded, so having them contribute to the wing area would be quite nice. I will publish photos of the finished model, probably at the weekend. I imagine there will be quite a few different opinions on this so will get the popcorn out. Thanks in advance for your replies.

That's a shame, Eric. Looks like it belongs on water. I built a Heinkel HE5 in Depron which flies beautifully off grass, but I did glass it, and will fly off water when the field floods. Best of luck. It’s still a nice build.

Lovely job Eric. Have you flown it off water?

It's possible to build from many materials. Just think outside the box and be prepared to experiment and sometimes fail.

Hi Sheepish. I wish I was so prolific!

Thanks for your very interesting reply. That's what I had in mind with my OP. Not so much what people are building next, but their reasons for doing so.

Almost finished my JU87 and thoughts turning to the next build. Just wondering how others decide what they will tackle next, and what considerations if any will influence the decision? Personally, I am thinking of a Grumman Duck in fibreglass covered depron. Reasons: not a lot of them about, fancy water flying for a change, promises to be an interesting build in depron. And of course I always liked the plane since seeing it in the movie "Murphy's War,” And there is a reasonable 3 view to work with on Wikipedia.

My thoughts exactly, Ace. I found his video really entertaining, and he has almost 90,000 subscribers, so he is doing something right. Maybe he is just what is needed to bring more people into building rather than just RTF. i.e. You don't have to be a master craftsman to build something impressive which flies. I will watch his 10-foot wingspan Hercules tonight.

Just perusing YouTube as you do and found this guy. Fascinating Reaper Drone build. I love his free and easy style.

As I figured. However it arrived and works fine. Just looking at the latest charger from Sky RC as they seem to have discontinued the B6 AC. Anyone got one. (B6 neo)

Just bought one of these on e-bay for £19.99. Had a couple of these, but one of them packed up and I needed a replacement. Just wondering if they are a knock off or the genuine article.

Hi Graham. Only fibreglass tips I can give are to prepare well beforehand, brush a good coat of the resin onto the surface to be covered, and then lay the glass cloth onto the resin. Do not try to stipple through the cloth, as you won't get as good a bond. Remove excess resin by laying the kitchen-roll onto the saturated cloth when it is in position. Wings I do upper surface first, let that cure, then do underside. Mask off any areas you do not want to cover, and trim cloth to these areas with a sharp scalpel when the resin is just touch dry as you remove the masking tape. As with most things in life, practice makes perfect, or almost perfect! Practice on lots of scrap first. Hope that helps.

Hi Martin.Models are: Tempest with 52" span flying wt 1400 grams. Heinkel HE5. 54"span flying wt 1300 grams Avro 539. 40" span flying wt 1280 grams. All flying weights are with 2200 3cell and 35.36 900kv motors. All my models are built using 3 views downloaded on a couple of A4s and then scaled up directly onto Depron sheets. I work out construction details as I build. As to build photos, I do not take any.

No. My own plan. Electric, in fibreglass covered Depron. Should be ready to fly in a couple of weeks.