Shaun Walsh
-
Posts
1,747 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Calendar
Downloads
Everything posted by Shaun Walsh
-
Posted by Jeffrey Cottrell 2 on 11/05/2020 15:25:32: Hi Shaun, thanks for the quick reply. So, no mid wing joins in yours. Never run into Paulownia before, but it sounds stronger than balsa. So, DW are correct in saying they are improving their kits. Oddly enough, they did supply spar webs in mine, but these were plywood. So, soft balsa spars and ply webs. Sounds the wrong way round to me. Cheers Jeff Hi Jeff I just found the scrap that surrounded the spars and they are medium/hard grade balsa, not Paulownia. The original design has top and bottom spars joined with ply webs in the first three bays. I decided to add balsa webs to the tips as the wing could flex quite a bit. Admittedly this was before the leading edge sheeting was added which would have helped rigidity a lot. The wing as I built it seems very strong but the proof of the pudding etc.
-
Posted by Jeffrey Cottrell 2 on 11/05/2020 14:29:19: Hi Shaun, just a quick question. One of the main issues I have with my T30 build is the wing spars. These are laser cut from very soft material and only 4mm square. Also supplied in two parts, intended to be butt jointed. In my opinion these would not survive the stresses in normal flight, let alone the odd 'hard' landing. DW are telling me that this is an old kit (2017) and they have improved since. Just wonder what your opinion was of the spar material supplied in your kit. Cheers Jeff Hi Jeff The spars in the Space Walker were supplied in lengths sufficient for half of the full wing span so only needed to be joined in the centre. Also they were made of Paulownia wood, I think, and were quite firm. However I did take the precaution of adding webs between the upper and lower spars all the way to the wing tips as the wings were somewhat flexible in torsion prior to adding the leading edge sheeting.
-
I need to make a screen for my DW Hobby Space Walker. Can anyone suggest what material/thickness would be appropriate and where I might get it from? Thanks
-
Have just started covering the fuselage with the supplied film. The fuselage bottom aft of the wing is a bit too flexible, as the film shrinks it pulls the fuselage sides in a little. It is only a small amount so I will live with it, however, if I was building another one I would reinforce the fuselage bottom either by adding a balsa doubler between the formers or adding extra cross braced half way between the formers. Anton, you may want to consider this before you begin covering.
-
Posted by Anton Webers on 10/05/2020 16:17:47: Hi Shaun, Oh, I thought you cut it off vertically judging from your post last time. Do you mean fillets between the horizontal and vertical stabilizer? Yes, they are not yet ready. I need to get some more coarse sandpaper first, I only have super fine one left. By the way, the slot in the end part of the trail as well as in the wing end part been the wing and the aileron look a lot like slots for some fabric hinges. No, at first I was going to cut it vertically but looked at the full size space walker and realised that it was a balanced rudder. The fillets I was talking about are not the ones between the fin and tailplane. If you look at the fin, the join between the leading edge and the base (the balsa/ply laminate part that goes through the tailplane) is quite weak so I added a triangular fillet to strengthen it, same with the trailing edge joint.
-
Posted by Anton Webers on 10/05/2020 15:45:15: Based on the way the rudder parts are cut and arranged, I'm wondering if the rudder was not meant for a horn balanced rudder like the Piper Cup has (Image). Not sure about the aerodynamic effects for this plane and if it is beneficial or makes things worse. But if I would cut the horn off, it's harder to undo it later. If anyone has some experience on the behaviour with a horn balanced rudder, let me know 😁 Hi Anton Well that's the way I built it. Also, I have a HobbyKing Hummer and a Max Thrust Riot which both have balanced rudders and fly without any adverse issues. Also, the fin wasn't very strong in torsion so I added triangular fillets between the base and the leading and trailing edges which made a big improvement.
-
Posted by GrumpyGnome on 07/05/2020 19:25:09: This kit is on my 'lockdown to do' list but not looking forward to it now tbh... GG Actually, its not that bad, the kit itself is ok it's just the design that has a few flaws which can be easily rectified if you know about them in advance with some spare balsa and ply, but the instructions leave a lot to be desired.
-
I had a similar problem with a motor installation. I used the bolt on prop adapter with a bit of thread lock on the fitting screws, and then chose a suitable spinner to match the adapter. What size/type of spinner and prop do you currently have, pics are helpful. Edited By Shaun Walsh on 07/05/2020 18:20:03
-
Undercarriage next. The wheels supplied are 1.5 inches in diameter which is a bit small, I think you would need an 8 or, max, 9 inch prop to get ground clearance. This would mean the motor would need to be around 1200 to 1400KV. The motor I have is 1020KV so I don't really want to go below 10 inches, hence the bigger wheels. Also, one of the sites I fly at is a little rough, so big wheels make take off a lot easier. These are 2.25 inches. The aluminium undercarriage is fine but the center section is flat so you will either have to bend it in the middle to accommodate the wing dihedral or put some packing on the wing to fit the undercarriage to or attach it to the fuselage just in front of the wing which will need some reinforcement. I chose to just bend the aluminium and attach direct to the wing.
-
-
-
On a more positive note, the supplied cowling is a good fit, however the parts supplied to attach the cowl to the fuselage aren't good. Parts Q4 don't fit properly if you make the electric version and I wanted something more substantial at the sides to be able to attach the cowl with small screws. So I made top and bottom sections from scrap balsa, the side pieces are pieces of trailing edge section faced with ply to accept the screws. All pieces are angled inwards slightly so that the cowl is easy to push on, it took a few tries and some judicious application of sandpaper but a good fit was achieved. Edited By Shaun Walsh on 07/05/2020 12:21:35
-
This is what happens when you shrink the film on the wings, this is the wing rib on the inboard end of the aileron cut out . Will need to sort this out somehow.
-
-
-
-
Posted by Anton Webers on 06/05/2020 19:27:00: Hi Shaun, Am I missing something or does the party K1 at the base of the vertical stabilizer not exist? Instead I found I6, H5 and K4 with the last being balsa and the others being plywood. The two plywood would be a bit too thick, so the one plywood with the balsa would just be right. That's strange isn't it? Was it the same for you? Hi Anton Yes, see my post of 1st April. I used the one ply one balsa route. Haven't fitted the fin and tailplane yet as I will cover them before fitting.
-
WARNING I have just started covering the wings with the film supplied in the kit, which is pretty good quality, not quite as good as Oracover, I did manage to melt a small hole in one section. However, I have discovered that as the film shrinks it distorts the ribs at each end of the aileron. I would therefore suggest that rib L10 is reinforced with a ply half rib from spar to trailing edge and L4 from leading edge to trailing edge similarly. Hopefully this should be enough to stop the distortion.
-
Hi Anton, sent you a PM.
-
Posted by Anton Webers on 03/05/2020 14:15:29: Not sure that hinging will work properly. I feel you'll need a hinge on the outer end as well. I haven't figured out the solution for the ailerons yet, but the rudder and elevators will be hinged with either a hinge (need to check the thicknesses that exist, hinge tape or a fabric like hinge fleece. The later reduces the needed thickness compared to normal hinges. The arrangement with the carbon tube and wire is simply to join the two elevator halves together, the elevators will be hinged to the tailplane with mylar hinge material. The ailerons will be top hinged with tape above and below, the cross section is shown below. They are solid, made from trailing edge balsa stock and scrap balsa sheet. The bottom surface is shorter than the top to allow the aileron to move down. Doing it this way means that there is no gap between the aileron and the wing on the top surface. If they were centre hinged the profile would need a wedge shape to and bottom. Edited By Shaun Walsh on 03/05/2020 14:28:30
-
-
Posted by Anton Webers on 02/05/2020 14:13:05: Hi Shaun, Lucky I found your post here and that you're building the same plane 😁 I think I noticed that you seem to have forgotten to put the wing mounting screw inserts into Part E6. It'll be a bit harder later but still doable. I have two questions. Did you put B2 (seconds page) and what they named D3 but is actually D5 (third page) onto the cockpit plane D1 or did you glue it onto the spots they used? It'll be hard to get the cockpit in the way they did. What is the metal thing you glued into the holes of D1 or D3? Magnets for the cockpit to stick? Hi Anton The photo isn't too good, I did remember to glue the screw inserts into E6, it's just difficult to see from the bottom. Assuming you are building the electric version, the horizontal part labelled D3 is glued to the main fuselage sides C3 and the motor mount and rear former. The vertical part labelled D3 is glued onto the rear of the horizontal D1 forming the rear of the removable cabin, see the pics below. The metal things glued into the holes are indeed 6mm magnets to hold the cockpit in place. Edited By Shaun Walsh on 03/05/2020 14:09:46
-
-
-
Next the tailplane The instructions don't show how to join the two elevator halves together so I improvised with a length of carbon fibre tube with piano wire inside and bent at 90 degrees. This was then superglued into semicircular cut outs in the elevator halves with the wire inserted into the wood.
