Andy Brough

Alex was 71 like me. No age at all I guess. He looked more worn than me! Too much time messing on boats as well toy planes!

Alex was a good mate of mine. He always called me, “old man” but we found out he was born the day after me! He said, “ I told you you were an old man”. We had parallel experiences in Lancaster in our student days in the early 70’s. We often met up at various meetings, he reporting for RCM&E and me Model Flyer. His drinking sessions in the command centre (caravan) were legendary! He was immense fun and absolutely useless at remembering stuff! Without Mike Parry to take his meticulous notes he was hopeless so he made it up! RCM&E will not be the same without his enthusiasm, contribution and dedication to get the camera footage and story every month. We were very similar in outlook and our shed habits but I simply couldn’t compete with his output of column inches! To say he’ll be missed is an understatement of the first order. He is irreplaceable.

Just a thought on stick fuse building, I always sand the first side completely flat which then forms the outside left hand side. The next side is buit on top of the other so any mistakes are replicated on the other but they are identical. The inner side then is the outer right hand panel. I then make all the formers to fit the actual space in the sides. I never cut the formers first. The trouble with a kit is the formers are already made so I guess one has to space to the formers using them as a gauge. Vintage plans are often a mile out, no CAD in those days........

Because it'll make a great model. I've had the plan for the best part of 20 years and was always going to built it free flight. Today I would fit a throttled Mills 1.3 which will swing a nice big prop and be quiet. It's a simple model if you've built similar models before. At least its a biplane without a complicated cabane structure.....go to it. If you go electric better men than me can sort you out.

I only seem to build stick fuselages! The question is, what glue do you use? I like to dry build so everything is square and lined up, then apply thin cyano. I do use thicker stuff for sticks though. Once removed from the board, all joints are reinforced with Ambroid, (the best balsa cement in the world) which forms a lovely fillet around the join and is both waterproof and resilient so will not crack. Done it this way for years and never have joint failures. Strange thing is I use Titebond 11 (aliphatic) for my cabinet making but rarely on models........Edited By Andy Brough on 12/01/2012 10:17:08

Most band saw blades will develop a set so the trick is to use a single point fence which is a rounded bit of wood clamped to the correct width. The wood is fed through at an angle according to the set. Some bandsaws such as Jet actually come with a round bar set into the fence for such a purpose. I'll take a pic of the jig saw set up which really does work and is small and cheap.

As an after thought, I use a Mini Craft jig saw fastened to a block of wood which is then clamped in a vice. I use this to cut out the centre of formers instead of a scroll saw. A better quality one like the Proxxon would be even better and could be used in place of the band saw and vastly cheaper. I stuck a larger ply plate on the sole to provide a table for longer pieces. I stuck it with double sided tape and it has never moved. The wood is like a clamp around the round body of the saw a split hole which is tightened up to hold the motor. Works just fine and I picked up the saw for very little at a club auction. Could be a cheap and small option.

Hi Vic, I did lash out on a Proxxon Band saw and it is superb. It cuts everything from thin steel, 10mm bolts, ply, 60 mm hard sycamore, brass and plastics! It's also light for under bench storage. I know it's dear but worth every penny and the blades are excellent albeit also expensive. However I did sell a Record 350 band saw beforehand as it was rather too large! I don't like scroll saws, band saws are far better. The downside is that it doesn't have a fence so I share the one off the Proxxon table saw, even more expensive, but is the best small saw in the world. if I had to buy another make then Record are probably the best. Both the saws I bought were done so with substantial discount by buying ex demo models at the end of a show......it is a pleasure to use good tools. Do not buy any of the offerings from DIY sheds as they are crap and don't ask how I know! Cheers.Edited By Andy Brough on 10/01/2012 22:22:25 Edited By Andy Brough on 10/01/2012 22:22:46

John, just looked at the Eaglet. Very nice. Raw polyester is not as strong and tends to split along the grain in my experience. But if using electric, only a thin coat of Banana oil is needed to seal the surface so will end up very light. Andy

John, Polyspan is a trade name for polyester tissue. I use the stuff Pauline at Flitehook sells in the lightweight form. Dope it on and heat shrink followed by a coat of thin dope. Then tissue applied wet on top. Looks just like tissue but far stronger. Reheat whole wing to remove any warps....somehow I have to use up my hundreds of sheets of tissue! Andy

Hi Chaps, David Davis suggested I look in as it may help with my "Radio Interference" column in Sam 35 Speaks. I've not been a radio flyer albeit an aeromodeller since I was in short pants and now 60. You seem to have inspired me as I have dug out a Matador Kit and toyed with the notion of fitting my ( ex Bowden winning ) Giles 1.5cc twin. However, for use at my most local patch, electric would be more sensible. I have to hand a KD2217 Outrunner Brushless Motor, 40A speed controller and loads of suitable 3s packs. With over 200 watts I don't think I'll be short of power but you don't have to use it all! The plan does say 3" wheels but I will fit whatever looks the best from my stock. I will cover with polyester and Modelspan over the top which is my usual vintage covering method. Could use silk though as no messy fuel to damage it. Can't start for a week or two as I must build some cupboard doors and compete my Stevens Aero indoor model for the next meeting. I did note that the Gamine, which I put in the mag was a suggested design but of course I do have that one already, now engined with an Allouchery. The 0.6cc twin is now in a newly completed Chatterbox. I'll show pics once I figure out how to do this on my iPad........Edited By Andy Brough on 10/01/2012 14:06:27