Nick Brotherton

The lower part of the fuselage sides is cut into 2 parts and the edges are in the shape of a wavy line but forms the correct shape when joined together. It's the part of the fuzz just above the wing that's shown in your last photo where it says "Leave till dry and sand and trim to shape". If you don't know about it then it must be a manufacturing fault?

My club mate is building one of these. But the lower part of the fuzz is scolloped? Any reason why when it could have been one piece as here?

Thanks for all the replies. I have emailed Phil and he says that YT have used the wrongmco our if the green is "overall green". It should be dark green. I,will have to continue to find a match.

Thx for the fast response Andy! Just looked at their site and they dont list "Overall Green" only dark green which isnt the right shade? Nick

I just looked and thye are out of business Any idea where I can get some "overall green" from for my YT Hurri? Nick

@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css); @import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css); More developments, this morning when I resumed work on this model with the 2 different servo types, it started jittering again! Finally solved it with a 4.8 v battery which was slightly low ie 4.6v, there was no jitter so i retired the regulator with the voltage set at just 4.8 and it was fine, must've had the voltage set too high or, more likely, my multimeter isnt accurate. Incidentally it only causes jitter with servos connected using a y lead and not single servos.   Thx for all the replies. @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

I may have found a solution. I tried 4.8 v but it did chatter on this voltage too. I then swapped the Y lead, no change either. So I tried substituting one of the 591's with a 577 and hey presto, no chatter! Odd or what? It only chatters when 2 x 591's are connected with a Y lead. with 2 x 577's no chatter, 1 x 577 and 1 x 591 no chatter. Some odd thing with the 591 servo spec I guess, but I am at a loss as to what it could be.   Cheers. @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Hi Peewhit,   Thx for the reply. I have had this discussion before and find it really infuriating when the USA web site for JR state torque values for all their servos at 4.8 AND 6 volts. But in the UK they say that they can only run on 4.8v. I'm sure they are all made in the same factory in the Far East so why the difference? JR and Spektrum were (until recently) working together but it seems that you cant use their products in the same installation. (if worrying about brownouts which maybe, as you say, is a myth) . In the past I have risked using 6v on several other models with no issues of blown servos. I am now wishing I was using Futaba instead but its a bit costly to move across completely. I just looked at the latest servos on the Macgregor website and they are still stating 4.8 volts only! Still not happy. Nick @import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Hi all, Am just setting up a plane with Spektrum DX7 and AR6200 rec'r.I am using a 6v NIMH battery as I have done before (conscious that Spektrum requires a higher voltage to avoid brown outs etc).BUT this time I am getting servo chatter on the elevator servos ( 2 x JR591’s connected to elev channel with a Y lead).It doesn’t happen every time I move the elevator stick but on occasions and it seems to happen more just as the servo is moving back to neutral.I have used this setup on many other planes without any problem. BUT if I fit a regulator and take the voltage down to 5v it seems to be OK so maybe I should be doing this with all my models. HoweverI am puzzled as this is the first time its happened. (or maybe the first time I have noticed it). All the servos are new JR R591's but it only happens on the elev channel.Has anyone else experienced this and are all you spectrum users out there running with a 6v or a 4.8v receiver battery?Any help appreciated.

Thx Tim.@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Glad you sorted it Noel.   Whilst we are on the topic of Horizon Hobby, does anyone out there have the name and / or email for their MD? I want to complain about their poor post sales service with respect to Hangar 9 spares (not to be confused with Spektrum post sales which is excellent).

Hi Noel,   I had same issue. If your switches only have 2 wires, then plug the battery into any channel on the receiver and plug the bind plug into where the battery usually goes. Then follow the bind process and when done remove bind plug b4 removing battery. That should work it did for me and others who had same problem..   @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Thx lads for all the replies.   Just seemed a pity to have to dismantle a brand new set and risk damage. Would probably be fine but if Inwoods do it for you then I will leave it to them!  @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css); I was rather hoping for sensible replies ! Anyway you are wrong R6 Dan. Modes are actually regional and in parts of the country mode 1 is more popular than mode 2. I have a dodgy thumb which was the reason I learnt on mode 1in the first place so there is good reason for it. Bet your wouldnt be too keen on changing modes after 20 years!  Edited By Nick Brotherton on 13/11/2010 18:18:46

Thx for the reply Pete,   I placed all my orders for these spares with Podium RC and have been advised of stock issues by them. I looked elsewhere including F1 as you mentioned, but none available anywhere. Its obviously an ongoing problem, but one we shouldn't have to put up with in this day and age. I notice that a complete new kit of most in the H9 range are readily abvailable but I'm sure that if you fly RC models, one day you will crash them and need parts, not just a complete kit.    @import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);