Nick Brotherton

The lower part of the fuselage sides is cut into 2 parts and the edges are in the shape of a wavy line but forms the correct shape when joined together. It's the part of the fuzz just above the wing that's shown in your last photo where it says "Leave till dry and sand and trim to shape". If you don't know about it then it must be a manufacturing fault?

My club mate is building one of these. But the lower part of the fuzz is scolloped? Any reason why when it could have been one piece as here?

Thanks for all the replies. I have emailed Phil and he says that YT have used the wrongmco our if the green is "overall green". It should be dark green. I,will have to continue to find a match.

Thx for the fast response Andy! Just looked at their site and they dont list "Overall Green" only dark green which isnt the right shade? Nick

I just looked and thye are out of business Any idea where I can get some "overall green" from for my YT Hurri? Nick

@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css); @import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css); More developments, this morning when I resumed work on this model with the 2 different servo types, it started jittering again! Finally solved it with a 4.8 v battery which was slightly low ie 4.6v, there was no jitter so i retired the regulator with the voltage set at just 4.8 and it was fine, must've had the voltage set too high or, more likely, my multimeter isnt accurate. Incidentally it only causes jitter with servos connected using a y lead and not single servos.   Thx for all the replies. @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

I may have found a solution. I tried 4.8 v but it did chatter on this voltage too. I then swapped the Y lead, no change either. So I tried substituting one of the 591's with a 577 and hey presto, no chatter! Odd or what? It only chatters when 2 x 591's are connected with a Y lead. with 2 x 577's no chatter, 1 x 577 and 1 x 591 no chatter. Some odd thing with the 591 servo spec I guess, but I am at a loss as to what it could be.   Cheers. @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Hi Peewhit,   Thx for the reply. I have had this discussion before and find it really infuriating when the USA web site for JR state torque values for all their servos at 4.8 AND 6 volts. But in the UK they say that they can only run on 4.8v. I'm sure they are all made in the same factory in the Far East so why the difference? JR and Spektrum were (until recently) working together but it seems that you cant use their products in the same installation. (if worrying about brownouts which maybe, as you say, is a myth) . In the past I have risked using 6v on several other models with no issues of blown servos. I am now wishing I was using Futaba instead but its a bit costly to move across completely. I just looked at the latest servos on the Macgregor website and they are still stating 4.8 volts only! Still not happy. Nick @import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Hi all, Am just setting up a plane with Spektrum DX7 and AR6200 rec'r.I am using a 6v NIMH battery as I have done before (conscious that Spektrum requires a higher voltage to avoid brown outs etc).BUT this time I am getting servo chatter on the elevator servos ( 2 x JR591’s connected to elev channel with a Y lead).It doesn’t happen every time I move the elevator stick but on occasions and it seems to happen more just as the servo is moving back to neutral.I have used this setup on many other planes without any problem. BUT if I fit a regulator and take the voltage down to 5v it seems to be OK so maybe I should be doing this with all my models. HoweverI am puzzled as this is the first time its happened. (or maybe the first time I have noticed it). All the servos are new JR R591's but it only happens on the elev channel.Has anyone else experienced this and are all you spectrum users out there running with a 6v or a 4.8v receiver battery?Any help appreciated.

Thx Tim.@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Glad you sorted it Noel.   Whilst we are on the topic of Horizon Hobby, does anyone out there have the name and / or email for their MD? I want to complain about their poor post sales service with respect to Hangar 9 spares (not to be confused with Spektrum post sales which is excellent).

Hi Noel,   I had same issue. If your switches only have 2 wires, then plug the battery into any channel on the receiver and plug the bind plug into where the battery usually goes. Then follow the bind process and when done remove bind plug b4 removing battery. That should work it did for me and others who had same problem..   @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Thx lads for all the replies.   Just seemed a pity to have to dismantle a brand new set and risk damage. Would probably be fine but if Inwoods do it for you then I will leave it to them!  @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css); I was rather hoping for sensible replies ! Anyway you are wrong R6 Dan. Modes are actually regional and in parts of the country mode 1 is more popular than mode 2. I have a dodgy thumb which was the reason I learnt on mode 1in the first place so there is good reason for it. Bet your wouldnt be too keen on changing modes after 20 years!  Edited By Nick Brotherton on 13/11/2010 18:18:46

Thx for the reply Pete,   I placed all my orders for these spares with Podium RC and have been advised of stock issues by them. I looked elsewhere including F1 as you mentioned, but none available anywhere. Its obviously an ongoing problem, but one we shouldn't have to put up with in this day and age. I notice that a complete new kit of most in the H9 range are readily abvailable but I'm sure that if you fly RC models, one day you will crash them and need parts, not just a complete kit.    @import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css); @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css); @import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);   Whilst it states on most websites that the new DX8 is supplied only as a Mode 2 unit, (I fly on mode1) I have seen it available at Inwoods as a Mode 1. Even Horizon Hobby say that it is provided only as mode 2 and is easily changed to mode 1. Well according to a review I read today in one of the other mags, its not all that easy and they advise getting the correct mode. Apparently you have to remove about 22 screws! And the rubber grips (which are stuck on) also have to be removed, requiring care not to damage the double sided sticky tape holding them on. What a performance! I dont really want to be doing all that with a brand new tranny do I? Can anyone confirm if they are indeed available supplied as Mode 1 sets or not. I had placed an order with Als in the belief that conversion was a relatively simple matter and yes I can hear someone yelling "if you can build models why be shy of undoing a few screws and swapping over the stick limiter"! Yes I could easily do that but why bother if you can get one already on Mode 1. Any ideas anyone?   Edited By Nick Brotherton on 13/11/2010 18:00:32

Hi all,   This is about the lack of available spares for Hangar 9 ARTF kits,  I have several Hangar 9 warbirds and a Taylorcraft and great flying models they are too. However my experience of the supply of spares for these ARTF kits is not good. Whilst Horizon Hobby do provide excellent service (I have had experience of this with their excellent support of Spektrum radios), their ability to obtain spares for Hangar 9 models is very poor. I have now been waiting 3 months for a cowl and screen for the Taylorcraft and even when I ordered a plastic wheel well for a Mustang (a very basic part) I find that is also out of stock. I recently ordered a new set of retracts for the Mustang and that also took about 6 weeks to appear. I just wondered if anyone else had the same experience. I was told by Horizon that it has to do with getting a container full enough before they ship it across from the far east full of the requested orders but I must say its not much good to us when you lose the ability to fly in the last few months of the season because of a 3 month wait for spare parts!    Nick  @import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Hi folks,  I went to the LMA show at Gaydon today and there in the bring and buy was a Seagull Mew gull, flown but damaged of course. I was disappointed to see that it had the early u/c fitting and had apparently gone over on landing and the spats had damaged the wing but not too badly. It was for sale at £80 and someone bought it. I still have mine BNIB in the loft and eagerly await the forthcoming review!  Nick Edited By Nick Brotherton on 24/10/2010 17:07:50

My copy arrived and I had a quick scan, it looks good. I was rather hoping there would be a review very soon of the Seagull Mew Gull that Graham built, but I havent seen it yet, did I miss it? There were some comments on the forum and a few unnecessary remarks. Is there likely to be one soon, your competitor mag did one, is that perhaps the reason you havent?  Cheers Nick

Thanks for all the replies, very good of you all to take the time.Its now fixed. The head wasnt leaking - it was the inlet manifold . I also had 2 tiny pinholes in the clunk tubing. Typical   Will put it back in the plane tomorrow and hopefully fly it without any problems! regards Nick  

Thanks Steve, I put some liquid soap around the joint and it bubbled like crazy when run!The engine hasnt run well since i put it in a model and will only run at any sort of decent rate with the needle just one turn out. Thats obviously too lean and consequently once the engine gets warmed up it starts to overheat, struggles a bit and stops unless I throttle back (which I do every time it does it). I'm sure the head was tight enough. I just had a call from a club mate who reckons he's got a gasket (or shim) that will fit.  I will try that tomorrow and failing that will give John H a call.  Thanks again. Nick

Thanks for the replies chaps, appreciate it.  Its a metal gasket, but doesnt look like copper, but steel or aluminium? I will try Just Engines but they are on holiday this week. Thanks for the tip about the ASP, perhaps it will fit, JE do both OS and ASP so will speak to them next week. John Haytree doesnt seem to have a website but I now have their phone number.  regards Nick

Hi all, I have a rather old 4 stroke, its an OS FS80 and dates back to 1982 according to the OS website.The engine is almost new, having been sat unrun for a long time. The reason for this is probably that it lacks power, however I now know why - the head gasket is leaking rather badly. I assume d a gasket would be available but I have searched the web and cannot find any source of spares for this engine, in fact hardly any mention of this engine at all.  I suspect it wasn't in production for too long. I was going to contact Just Engines but wondered if anyone out there could suggest anything? Shame to abandon it as it looks brand new.  RegardsNick

Spot on Martin! You obviously dont scan the BMFA website much Stephen! Its a great place to get some second hand stuff, but buyer beware of course! (I've been lucky so far).  Maybe I will brave it one day and get it out of the box. (then probably put it back again).  Nick

Hi Peter, Sorry to hear that, very frustrating. Is your's the new torsion wire u/c or the old strut and block type? Why did they change it thats what I want to know, and did they test both versions properly before they released the model onto the market? I guess we will never find out but if they monitor the internet for bad press and complaints like some big companies are rumoured to, then perhaps they are aware and are keeping their heads low. Better luck after the repair. Mine still in the box....... Dont buy any you see advertised for sale as BNIB! Nick