Richard Clark 2

Posted by Frank Skilbeck on 30/07/2020 22:31:42: Can't also help thinking that there is a niche in the market for good quality fibreglass fuselage with foam veneered wing gliders, a few years ago I picked up a part built Multiplex Fiesta, while it won't perform like a mouldie it does fly really well and just about always accompanies me to the slope. I've got the old Multiplex Graffiti (glass fuz, balsa sheeted foam wing with a spruce spar) with a geared Kontronik 'long' 480 size motor and a Kontronik 80 amp Jazz controller. It's terrific!

Posted by leccyflyer on 30/07/2020 23:42:12: I have been flying electric since the mid-90;s and exclusively electric for about the past 18 years, I settled on the 4mm "gold" bullet connectors fairly early on, had a brief dalliance with Deans connectors on a few models, before reverting to the bullets. Their simplicity the lack of bulk in my preferred small models and the flexibility in being able to make serial connections without adding any bulky adaptors or extra cables. Over the years all sorts of increasingly bulky plastic housings around essentially bullet connections have come and gone, In all of those case they have been clipped from the batteries and replaced with polarised 4mm bullets, with unequal lead length and a single wrap of tape making inadvertent connection of the pack to itself impossible. The ease of soldering the bullet connections makes prepping a new model's ESC and battery a trivial matter -including adding a U-Bec on lots of models and it works for me. The time and hassle in changing a brand of connectors ought not be under-estimated, especially with a large number of models already fitted out -so it pays to make a good decision and to stick with that standard. It makes me laugh when I read such bold statements that connector "x" is the next big thing, or for that matter that connector "y" is a thing of the past -with the possible exception of those horrible Tamiya connectors. I do have one second hand model which has those big bulky blue XT connectors. The extremely heavy duty cables are too thick to fit into a 4mm bullet connector, so I have two 6s1p5000mah packs that I cannot use in any other models-which is a bit of a pain. Good thoughtful comments. But I suspect the connectors many people favour at any given time is more down to marketing than anything else. They will of course deny that because we all like to think that being 'wise' we are 'above' such things but it isn't true. Only penniless hermits are immune to marketing. What do I use? I started with the six pin green Multiplex connectors, which can be used for many things. Using three pins per wire they are rated at 30 Amps and I still use then in smaller planes.. Then I moved to Deans for medium sized planes. I didn't particularly like them but the genuine ones are rated at 50 amps but will take far more. Now I mostly use the yellow XT60 or XT90 even though it is an inherently bad design electrically as a tube with a split along it fitting into another tube relies entirely on the correct split tube material.  Theirs is chosen only to be as low cost as possible and still 'sort of' work after repeated insertions and removals. On my 'up to 5 Kilowatt' EDFs I have stayed with Deans on the 'If it's good enough for BVM Jets at 7 Kilowatts it's good enough for me' basis. And they don't get even warm, let alone hot. Which is the most important factor. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 31/07/2020 06:59:44

Posted by Martin McIntosh on 30/07/2020 20:42:52: I would forget Deans now since most common packs come with the superior XT series. Having used both I'm not sure which is better. Deans use proper strongly sprung contacts rather than relying on the rather soft and not noticeably springy contacts the XT connectors use. But there are many fake Deans connectors. A test. If it hasn't got noticeably warm after a minute or two of uninterrupted full power usage and remains so after several months of flying it's fine. BVM Jets still use standard genuine US made Deans connectors on their very high power EDFs.

I always wanted one of those. My closest model shop, Spire Models near Salisbury, used to be full of such things but I never got past 'very tempted'. Multiplex also made a terrific big electric one with a 'hatchet' shaped very slim fuselage and named it after a German beer, though I can't remember its actual name. It's about time Multiplex made (or marketed) a proper plane again rather than just overpriced chunks of washing machine packing material.

Posted by Bob Cotsford on 30/07/2020 16:58:03: ......Maybe I'll just leave it at "different strokes for different folks"? I certainly agree with that. But despite my first sentence mentioning what many people do my post was about the aircraft, not about people or "folks"

Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 30/07/2020 17:04:19: Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 30/07/2020 15:21:45: I think many people greatly overdo the power.   The Acro Wot XL is only six inches wingspan bigger, about two and a bit pounds heavier with the recommended large and heavy petrol engine and has a bit more wing area. I think anything bigger than a 120 two stroke glow is totally unnecessary and largely accounts for the specified weight. Twins are even worse as even glow ones are usually pretty feeble for their size and weight. The lighter the plane the better it flies, particularly so with fully aerobatic planes. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 30/07/2020 15:30:52 I agree most over do the power in models but in this case the AWXL can take it. Although its only a bit bigger on paper than an astro hog its twice the model in terms of bulk and it is (by class) an extra 300 where as the hog is an upside down piper cub. They just arent the same model. The AWXL will fly on a 120, but it would be..pretty lacking overall. 180 4 stroke is always my recommendation for the model and while mine has that 40cc OS its also very heavy due to the weight of the engine and not all 40cc engines are created equal. The OS would easily loose a tug of war with a dle30. In any case, when hooning around with a laser 180 powered example there was little between them in terms of overall performance.   The OS 40cc four stroke will easily be beaten by the DLE two stroke, as you say. But equally the Laser 180 will be beaten by the OS 120 two stroke. The Saito 180 twin previously mentioned seems to be particularly light. But it's not very powerful for its size. Twins, be they two stroke or four stroke, usually fall down on internal friction, especially at these small sizes. And even single cylinder four strokes are at a disadvantage. The OS 91 two stroke is close to double the power of their 91 four stroke. The heli engines are even better, throttle very well, and they only need the head turned down (if you want it cowled), plus a prop driver. There's one in a 'classic' pattern plane of mine. And as you also say the differences. won't be noticed much in the air. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 30/07/2020 20:08:39

Posted by Bob Cotsford on 30/07/2020 15:54:59: Hmm, my AstroHog had an OS 46 FX which was plenty for the lightly loaded vintage model, and it balanced without any lead. When I had an AW XL with a 38cc 4 stroke petrol motor it was by no means overpowered, it's a different style of model for different expectations. The problem with big 2 strokes, whether petrol or methanol fueled, is the noise level. Hence a lot of owners opt for bigger, heavier 4 strokes, and as Paul said, why put a lighter motor in if you then need to add lead to balance the model?   We can all attempt to justify our purchases. I was merely looking at it from a 'practical flying' point of view. And as for quietness a four stroke twin has the same number of firings  as a two stroke single and is often unsilenced. I doubt the twins  are any quieter. That's why 'They' use noise meters. It avoids any subjectivism about sound frequency (eg two stroke singles vs four stroke singles) or 'more pleasant' . To non-modellers they all make a racket. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 30/07/2020 16:44:40

Let's hope they remembered to switch the heli radio on before they launched the rocket.

I think many people greatly overdo the power. My 15 years old Astro Hog is 72 inch span, covered entirely with doped, colour sprayed, and fuel proofed nylon, broke in half once due to my not paying attention  and had to be repaired so weighs eleven pounds Its OS 91 AX two stroke on a 16 by 6 prop provides endless and fast verticals,  going vertically OOS so easily you really  have to watch it,  even from take off when the speed starts off low. So much so that the quick vertical acceleration is easy to see. The Acro Wot XL is only six inches wingspan bigger, about two and a bit pounds heavier with the recommended large and heavy petrol engine and has a bit more wing area. I think anything bigger than a 120 two stroke glow is totally unnecessary and largely accounts for the specified weight. Twins are even worse as even glow ones are usually pretty feeble for their size and weight. The lighter the plane the better it flies, particularly so with fully aerobatic planes. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 30/07/2020 15:30:52

Posted by kc on 29/07/2020 17:51:10: Futaba users have a dilemma - if the FASST Tx becomes faulty then it s very expensive to buy another Tx to suit them. So if my 6EX expires it seems it would be cheaper to 'dump' the Rx too and switch to another system! That's why I didn't buy any extra FASST Rx but bought a Spektrum TX and extra Rx to instead. Also a bit similar with S-FHSS which is not compatible with all the cheaper Tx -some are only T-FHSS. The only Futaba worthwhile buy Tx at a reasonable price would seem the 6K which does the S-FHSS and the T-FHSS Rx but not the FASST. So my advice is if most of the Rx you have are S-FHSS or T-FHSS then don't bother to repair the 14SG unless the cost is quite low but instead consider the 6K at about 162 pounds with Rx. It would get you flying and radio gear won't get any cheaper in future. ( actually 162 pounds is about 1980 price for TX & Rx) My conclusion is that FASST Rx are not going to be worth much s/h - anyone who spends 400 or 500 pounds on a FASST Tx is not going to want s/h Rx. So once the Tx goes wrong they are going to be worth the same as 35 Mhz stuff - useful but little monetary value. Futaba compatibility chart Edited By kc on 29/07/2020 17:55:46 I think Futaba have completely lost the plot. They have six different protocols for 'air' and three more for 'surface'. Do they think that an 'air' protocol won't work on the ground and a 'surface' one won't work in the air? How about on the kitchen table? Which protocol should I use for that? And then there is S-bus and S-bus 2 receivers Not only are there two different sorts but if you use more than 8 channels and don't want to pay the quite high prices for S-bus bits and pieces the only receiver that supports more than 8 'regular' channel costs nearly 200 quid. I have been looking for a different make than my present transmitter/receivers made by a 'well-known and 75 years established' manufacturer. Not because they are in any way unsatisfactory but because I don't like putting all my eggs in one basket. The £350 transmitter has 16 channels and a 16 channel receiver cost 130 quid. The smaller ones cost much less.. And all the receivers not only work in the regular way but except for the very cheapest ones support Futaba S-bus and S-bus 2 as well. And together with Futaba FASST and Spektrum DSMX it has the 'equal first' protocol robustness on the market and has stayed with  that protocol from day one, unlike those two. The cheapest Futaba that even comes close to its functionality is the 18SZ at about a 1000 quid. So with that faffing about with protocol and busses, and the high price of a half-decent transmitter my 'alternative' won't be Futaba. Nevertheless I think there is a ready market for used Futaba 2.4 stuff.. There are people who appear to put up with all Futaba's nonsense. Possibly because their actual quality is excellent. Even with my thoughts above I recently came close  to buying their 18 channel FX36. But they have just discontinued it so I'm glad I didn't. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 30/07/2020 05:03:53

Posted by Sam Longley on 29/07/2020 10:01:15: For the record- 3 different planes with 3 different sets of gear. Transmitter is out of warranty, I assume, as it is over 2 years old. If I buy another tranny it will mean another load of receivers if they do not match the transmitter. I bought the 14SG for backward compatibility & now have about 10 receivers, so cost is not inconsiderable. I do not think that a 6EX would work on the higher spec receivers (forget the numbers) only on a 617 receiver. I think that is correct although I have not checked. So it is not the case of just buying a new tranny. A new 14SG is £ 379-00 on its own I did not know about the service chap mentioned above & if I get the tranny back I will follow the lead, so thanks for that one. Edited By Sam Longley on 29/07/2020 10:01:42 I didn't know that but three different setups is good evidence. Mike Ridley is excellent but even he couldn't reproduce an intermittent transmitter fault I had - intermittent faults are always difficult to detect unless it's something 'semi-obvious' like a doubtful looking solder joint and even then it's impossible to be certain it was the cause. I bought a new transmitter and kept the old one for spare knobs, case, display, etc. not that I have needed to use any.

Posted by Martin Harris on 28/07/2020 23:22:27: Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 28/07/2020 21:49:39: Posted by Martin Harris on 28/07/2020 21:21:48: Has anyone actually stated that the transmitter in question is under warranty? Under UK law 'satisfactory performance' and 'good service/repair' last WAY longer than the 'free' warranty period. Absolutely agree - and have argued similar cases with good results - but damage or fair wear and tear isn't covered and there's no real indication that the transmitter is faulty other than someone's probably unqualified opinion. It may not have been appropriate to flex legal responsibility muscles so sending it to the agent for testing for an unconfirmed and possibly intermittent fault may have been the appropriate action, especially if the transmitter is several years old. I haven't had any cause to deal with Ripmax for a few years but I got excellent response by contacting one of the directors by email and they readily agreed to honour their legal responsibilities on a manufacturing fault on an unused but (openly disclosed) second hand OS engine which was several years old. Sam, I would continue to try to contact them and if no reply, send a registered letter to their office asking for your property back if they are unable to respond in a timely manner. You could try an email to [email protected] first if you haven't already done so. And I agree with you. Especially so in this case where there is no solid evidence of a fault. But is is not the quality or lack thereof of Ripmax's fixes that is the issue here, it is the time it is taking. And you shouldn't need to call a Ripmax 'high up' to get a response that satisfied you. As for me I use Multiplex radio as it one of the only three (the others being Spektrum's DSMX and Futaba's FASST) that use 'true' spread spectrum, making its radio link extremely robust. Though Multiplex build quality is no better than 'average'. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 29/07/2020 09:40:17

Posted by Peter Jenkins on 29/07/2020 00:37:07: Richard....... ........Can I suggest that we now leave this argument alone as I'm sure it's not of huge interest to most readers. If you want to continue it, please start your own thread. I would rather spend my time describing the build of this model than continue an argument for contrary purposes. Is that OK? Fine by me and I will continue to follow your interesting thread.

Posted by Martin Harris on 28/07/2020 21:21:48: Has anyone actually stated that the transmitter in question is under warranty? Under UK law 'satisfactory performance' and 'good service/repair' last WAY longer than the 'free' warranty period.

Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 28/07/2020 19:53:06: While i completely understand your annoyance and frustration try to consider things from the other side. We (laser) sent components for hardening about 2 days after your tranny went in and we still dont have them back.Its a right pain as i cant finish anything. I have an engine in for repair waiting for one of those parts. I cant speak for Ripmax directly, but if they only have a skeleton crew on hand they cant spend all day on the phone as they wouldnt get any work done. This could be why the phone is being ignored and i really struggle with people who request constant updates as i can only do one thing at a time. Do you want me to call everyone with updates on work, or would you rather i just got on with it and finished it quicker? I know your answer will be 'but it only takes 5 minutes to call me' and that might be true, but what if there are 50 5 minute calls to make to angry customers wanting their stuff fixed? its not like yours is the only radio in for repair or only thing that needs to be sorted out as i think rmx are still the futaba agent for the whole of europe? and i doubt more than 2 blokes are doing all the work. As for returning it to a shop and threatening them...grow up mate. The shop will do nothing other than send it to ripmax as they are entitled to return it to the uk service agent for diagnosis and fault finding. You might be able to go and yell at them, but yelling at people when you want them to help you is not likely to work out too well. Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 28/07/2020 19:58:15 All very true. But if they try to slime their way out of it, as some often do, you don't have to yell, just be quietly firm and if they argue mention consumer protection law and the local 'weights and measures' people or whatever they are called these days. Personally I give everyone two chances and if they fail both times that's it. But I don't buy in the first place if I see a number of bad reports. We always have other choices. . For example there are two 'fly fishing' shops near me. One I would never use as they invariably (and illegally) try to pass the buck to the distributor or manufacturer. The other, American owned and established for over 150 years, gives you a replacement instantly, if you find whatever they have sold you unsatisfactory. Their own brand products have a 'no question' 25 year warranty, instantly performed by replacement or if obsolete a new equivalent. They are of course my 'go to' shop. From the customer's position you are a good choice, being all of manufacturer, UK distributor, and legal 'supplier'. and also have an excellent reputation. And in the present situation 99% of people will make allowances.

Ripmax was never an impressive company and seems to have been in slow decline for the last few years. It's a bit late now obviously but ideally you should have returned it to the shop you purchased it from (which was  your 'supplier' in UK law)  and tell (NOT ask) them to sort it out. If they fail or attempt to 'pass the buck' it's them you sue or take other action against. First 'other action' should be mention of UK consumer protection laws. And 'face to face' in the shop is better than phone calls, emails etc. If you 'personally' buy from abroad UK laws don't apply of course. And EU laws will cease to apply soon. My personal choice is call Mike Ridley of 'Model Radio Workshop' (with whom I have no connection) and if he is not an official service agent for whatever make of radio you have in mind buy something else. (Though he MAY be able fix other makes if he has, or can get, the parts.). Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 28/07/2020 19:52:48

Posted by Peter Jenkins on 25/07/2020 00:25:15: I thought it would be useful to research some power to weight ratios in response to your post Richard. ........etc. Just my point of view of course. Peter, First thing I will say about your very comprehensive post is Wow!!! You certainly look into these things thoroughly I will cover our points of disagreement but please note I am not disagreeing 'on purpose' merely to be 'contrary' and I am fully aware that it doesn't actually matter to you whether I disagree or not. I don't think comparing full size and model power to weight ratios means anything as WW2 aircraft flew on the 'wing', never on the engine thrust as many of our models can - sustained vertical or near vertical climbs. No WW2 aircraft could do that. Also it's wing loading that counts, which depends on relative  wing area. You didn't state it  and I can't be bothered to work it out.  It's  very different from one fifth, one sixth scale,   or whatever.  The Spitfire Mk V   was 27 pounds per square  foot,  vastly different  from our models whereas the power/weight ratio  is quite close. High speed stall. The aircraft's weight is the mass multiplied by the G force. The AoA required to sustain lift at any given airspeed depends on the weight and a 'high speed stall' can occur at any airspeed depending on the G force. I've deliberately induced one by fairly gently turning (so I have slightly increased the aircraft's weight while simultaneously slightly decreasing the vertical lift vector) near the aircraft's 'never exceed' airspeed and at full throttle and it is very violent. As I am sure you know It is the 'incipient spin' which is part of leaning to fly but AFAIK civilian instructors never carry it as far as the above. I'm surprised you 'debunked' my 120 comment. Maybe I was not clear. My 'no harm' remark meant if  I only had a 120 going spare I would use it in these models without hesitation. Regards. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 28/07/2020 07:16:55

Posted by MattyB on 27/07/2020 17:23:05: Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 26/07/2020 07:08:39: Posted by MattyB on 25/07/2020 19:33:32: Those old JRs were awesome - had a 388 for many years prior to my Profi, limited on the software side compared to most current sets, but the physicals were bulletproof. Yeah, they were. I only bought my first Evo because having retired early my GF, now wife, who is rather bossy, said I should do something useful... I have one of those too - I've never actually gone and done anything useful at her behest however. You want to be careful, it's a slippery slope between there and full on decorating/DIY duties... She means well and "it's for my own good". But her efforts to 'improve' me haven't been very successful

Posted by Martin Blake on 27/07/2020 11:54:24: They all look great 👍 . Jim how does she fly ? I have one avalible thats why i was thinking this design was just worried about the weight . I May have to build them all then choose . Think it will be a toss up between Vic smeed and gipsy The Gipsy as standard is far too lightly constructed near everywhere for a Mills point 75 And it's a bit short on wing area by the time you've added the weight of the engine plus the rc and its battery.

Deleted Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 27/07/2020 12:02:58

Posted by FlyinBrian on 27/07/2020 08:17:31: I have picked up a Great Planes Boing Stearman bipe and need four servos for the ailerons. Its a good sized biplane at around 70" span and has large ailerons. I normally use fairly decent HiTec servos but if possible would like to get the four for under £100. How are peoples experiences with Banggood, Ali Baba and HK servos.? Any others worth looking a Thanks Brian Use a 'mainstream' brand in a plane of that value. They don't need to be so-called 'digital' servos, (which in fact aren't truly 'digital' at all).

Posted by David Davis on 27/07/2020 09:15:11: It seems that the farmer found it after it had had an argument with his combine harvester! That should buff out.

Posted by Phil B on 26/07/2020 21:17:52: Can those UK residents who have bought from bang good please say how they get on with import tax and delivery? The import duty on any sort of 'goods' wherever they come from is not usually significant (often no more than 5%) and is often not charged at all if the article is of some undefined 'low' value. But VAT is charged on both the duty, if any, and the article itself. But we pay that on nearly everything, imported or not. Sometime the carrier 'pre pays' either or both and adds it to the price you pay. This avoids the delay until you personally pay the taxes.

Posted by Robert Parker on 25/07/2020 18:22:53: Hi Neil, I agree with Chris, and I have done this method on many of my models including my own 66" Tiger Moth. Here is a photo of one such installation using a ply plate and hardwood strip A slight variation clamping the servo in place. these are for the flaps on a Beaufighter The servos shown are still a little OTT and I now use metal geared Turnigy or Corona 13g servos from hobbyking, good servos for little money and so far I have not had one let me down other than one which was faulty on opening the box. Hope this helps Regards Robert I do this on almost everything. Usually using Hitec HS85mg servos. Then he can just screw the hatch lids to the rails, which is probably what the builder intended.

Posted by wingcoax on 25/07/2020 18:04:08: Here in Portugal we have been wearing masks for several weeks now. We have not had the "mass hysteria" you seem to have had in UK. It is taken for granted that if you want to be in shops you wear a mask..We have one of the lowest rates of infection (despite not being on the "air bridge "list. Spain has multiple outbreaks all over the place but is on the list. It is not rocket science to take basic precautions.   I fully agree. The way British people now "run in circles, scream and shout" about the most trivial things is ridiculous. Though the new "Stay at home for two weeks if you have visited Spain" rule is totally unenforceable. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 26/07/2020 15:50:33