Richard Clark 2

Posted by MattyB on 25/07/2020 19:33:32: Those old JRs were awesome - had a 388 for many years prior to my Profi, limited on the software side compared to most current sets, but the physicals were bulletproof. Yeah, they were. I only bought my first Evo because having retired early my GF, now wife, who is rather bossy, said I should do something useful so I worked part time in the nearby 'Mainly Planes and Trains' as I knew the owner. He had an Evo on the display shelf and I liked the look of it PS: I've sent you a PM accepting  your price. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 26/07/2020 07:10:10

Posted by Engine Doctor on 25/07/2020 13:15:19: Posted by David Gilder on 06/03/2013 16:30:53: Melt a candle into the pipe. When cool, bend. The wax will prevent the pipe collapsing. When bent, reheat the pipe and the wax melts out. This is how they bend the pipes for brass musical instuments!!! Hope that helps!! Edited By David Gilder on 06/03/2013 16:32:16 Thats a good tip And the big horn on the end makes it easy to pour it in

Posted by MattyB on 24/07/2020 20:05:05: Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 24/07/2020 15:16:31: ...The Taranis is cheap enough to buy as an 'experiment' with OpenTx but I would have to buy some receivera as well. Richard, I have an brand new, unused M-Link JR module that would fit any Frsky TX that would avoid that issue. It was bought as a backup in case Frsky messed up the ETSI change back in 2015, but in the end I never needed to switch RF platform. PM me if you are interested, as I will never use it now. Matty, I sent you a PM. I will have it if the price is 'fair' (I accept they were quite pricy originally). If I decide not to buy a Taranis I can use it in my old JR X347 which I quite liked. (Incidentally I've got a different version inside my very old Pro Line Competition 7 and yet another inside the Profi 4000 as they made a specific version for it.) Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 25/07/2020 13:32:14

Dead simple. No tube bender or springs needed. I've done it this way for donkey's years. Two pliers . If you've got some with a semi-circular groove along the jaws even better. Heat the tube over a gas ring on the cooker, keeping the plier jaws (and thus the ends of the tube) out of the flame and slowly bend the tube, Of course if you want one or two longer straight bits at the end use either or both pliers sideways. It works with both but copper is better than brass. It almost bends itself. You will get a tiny ovality but it's small enough not to matter. If it's for a clunk tank I cut a small bit of tinplate and drill three holes in it to match the holes in the bung, then cut it to a triangular shape with rounded points Put the three tubes though, push them PARTLY though the bung so it doesn't get too hot and solder it togeher with the tubes in the correct relation to each other. Then, when cool, push the tubes fully through the bung, obviously all three at the same time (a drop of washing up liquid helps with this). Use a soldering iron big enough so you can do it all quickly. That will keep the tubes in the correct position 'forever'. Make sure you have bent the tubes so you can, perhaps with a little pushing and shoving and starting with the bung at 90 degrees to the tank, get all three tubes into the tank simultaneously You might have to start weith the tubes not as far through the bung as you eventually need. Again a all q drop of washing up liquid wiped on the bung may help. No need to wash it ot off afterwards, risking water in the tank, it will evaporate.

Posted by Barrie Lever on 25/07/2020 00:23:24: Posted by Test Pilot on 24/07/2020 22:35:13: Probably won't be a popular point of view on here, but I hope this signals the end of Hobbyking. They have flooded the model market with cheap, often poor quality products (not all I'll concede) and been instrumental in sending many UK (and other - think Robbe and Graupner) model suppliers to the wall. Their customer service by all accounts is pretty shocking, unlike my local shop who like most UK shops are great. If all the cheap rubbish disappears from the market, the UK model trade - shops, manufacturers and distributors may have the future they deserve. We may even see some new ones appear. Despite what some people think, Hobbyking and ASP have done very little good for the hobby of model aviation. Yes people have been spoilt with cheap product but on too many occasions it was of poor quality (not always), but whilst this was taking place the established manufacturers having to pay taxes, pensions, sick pay and holiday pay and with little or no government support just packed up and went off to do something else. Now we are seeing that some Chinese manufacturers like ASP have lost interest in this drive to the bottom and stopped trading. Hobbyking are in a spot of bother as a court has decided that they broke certain FCC regulations and have hit HK with a punitive heavy fine, which could rock them to the core. So we can now say with no fear of contradiction that Hobbyking broke laws in their biggest market, now all we need to know is how many laws they broke and in how small a market !!   In this hobby quality has gone entirely out the window. more than any other hobby I know. Where is Oliver, Eta, K&B, OPS, Veco, Super Tigre? Where is Pete Russell, Tuthill/Walker, Bob Palmer, John O'Donnell, Ken Willard, H J Towner, Eric Coasby? Where is the Graupner Cirrus,  the Ta 152, Contest Kits, the Multiplex Alpina, the Kwik-flii? Where is Orbit, Flight Link, Sampey, Kraft or Pro Line? (I still fly a Pro Line Competition 7, modified to 2.4) Now planes are made out of washing machine packing material or splintery over-fertiliised supposed 'balsa wood' stuck loosely together by children using some ineffective glue. And 'giants' of the hobby no longer exist, just a few sponsored previously unknown nonentities  with a very short life. It's not just nostalgia, it is getting very difficult to find good stuff and  designers/modellers you can truly respect and who's efforts you can aspire to.  'Good' modelling is now  mostly  "Mine's bigger than yours". Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 25/07/2020 02:30:07

Posted by Jeffrey Cottrell 2 on 24/07/2020 14:42:22: Hi Guys Could we all stop bashing David Boddington, and get back to the issue in hand. Thanks Jeff Fair comment. So: An 1800 battery is too small. Even a 2200 is marginal. Your stated thrust is possibly too low. Hold the plane vertically at full throttle and it should just about balance the weight of the plane or at least be fairly close to that.. The1/16th ply is not a doubler, it's where the undercarriage fits. Balsa will be useless. If you use veneer use at least three 'qrain crossed over' layers, preferably four. If you 'reverse' the motor as previously suggested you don't need to cut the end of the shaft off. Just drill an oversized hole in the bulkhead for it to poke through. Glue a partly drilled out balsa lock behind it so it can't poke a hole in the battery, A bit of sponge is not enough. (I have no knowledge how experenced or 'competent' you are so some of the above may be obvious to you.)

Posted by Steve Balaam on 24/07/2020 14:24:51: I flew with an X12S on FROS for quite some time without experiancing any problems at all. I changed to OpenTx as there is a lot more support on Youtube and other sources if any support is needed. I continued to fly my X12s and also an X10S with OpenTx and both continue to give excellent reliable service. Only problems I've had is getting the TXs to talk to my PC and the Companion software but that's a MSoft Windows issue and not the TXs. I don't think it's a Microsoft problem. I've got lots of things that talk to it perfectly, from W7 to the latest W10 '2004' build (earlier this month) and every time I've tried back to about 2011. And even the old ones still all work fine. As for the Horus. I've have been looking with more and more interest at OpenTx as an 'alternative' (not a replacement) for my usual Multiplex stuff as the two operating systems have very similar interfaces and functionality. I don't like the Taranis because of its naff '1950s jukebox' appearance. Radiomaster quality is unknown and a few people on forums only recently saying it's ok is not enough. So I looked at the Horus. But why change one proprietary operating system for another? So that was the end of that idea. The Taranis is cheap enough to buy as an 'experiment' with OpenTx but I would have to buy some receivera as well.

Posted by Nigel Sharp on 24/07/2020 13:26:16: Richard, The photos of the Mini Super in red and black and white in this thread are of a bone fide Keil Kraft Mini Super built from a Keil Kraft kit I know because I built it. I might even have the kit plan somewhere. Whether Mr.Boddington developed the Mini Super and KK kitted it doesn't really concern me, and Probably not the others but it is interesting. He did a great deal promoting a really great and rewarding hobby. He even made some income out of his hobby so should be applauded. I think all the designs of his that I have built worked and I derived pleasure building and flying them. The provenance of the story highlighted by KC does by fit and the separate information I have passed to Jeff reference to my example is factual and measured directly from the Keil Kraft aircraft in the spirit of helpfulness. It means that Jeff can if he so wished widen the fuselage to the KK width and add tricycle u/cart which he has said he wanted and... have a split elevator. Because that is what the KK one had. Please resist deriding Mr Boddington here as that is just your opinion so keep it to yourself. I grew up reading about making and enjoying his designs. There are plenty of examples of aeroplane plans that in my opinion are sub optimal but I keep that to myself and choose not to build/buy or fly them. N Nigel, Boddington puzzles me. He 'Rose without trace'. Just like Liz Hurley, 'famous' only for wearing a dress . All of a sudden he was everywhere, and while his designs were 'adequate' they were all somewhat uninspired. Just how did he do it? You also mention "sub optimal" and your keeping it to yourself. Why should we, who often end up paying for it all by purchasing magazines, plans, wood, his original DB kits (now rather different) etc. do that? (As for your Mini Super I think you've done an excellent job.)

Posted by Cuban8 on 24/07/2020 10:01:11: Managed to order the last two 2600 3S lipos from HK's UK warehouse on Wednesday - due to be delivered today. £35 delivered - or could have could gone overland to pay twice the price for a single equivalent. With HK's present troubles along with other global suppliers, our hobby might be getting a whole lot more expensive and parts far less available. Very much so, though most price increases are due to the UK pound's ever decreasing value. In turn that decreases the number of end customers which then reduces the importers incentive to import it.

Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 24/07/2020 10:42:56: Posted by Barrie Lever on 24/07/2020 10:20:12: Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 24/07/2020 10:13:34: Posted by Barrie Lever on 24/07/2020 09:05:18: Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 24/07/2020 07:20:47: Posted by brokenenglish on 24/07/2020 06:41:00: Surely HK can't be the only company marketing this stuff? Plenty. But the USA usually only prosecutes 'foreign' companies, which of course HK is. EG Volkswagen for false pollution figures but they don't even investigate GM or Ford, I. Richard I have it on the highest authority (Director in Ricardo's) that Ford were squeaky clean in the emissions scandal. Ricardo's organised a conference and invited all the major motor manufacturers (their clients) just after the scandal broke and the only manufacturers to not show where the Germans !! B. Barrie, Be a daft director who admitted their customers were cheating, Ricardo would never get their business again. Not that they would tell Ricardo anyway, it's what they do after Ricardo have faffed around with the engine that counts. And the US authorities didn't even investigate the US companies because they didn't want to find anything wrong. It's all part of US protectionism. See BP's huge fine when the US owned, maintained, and operated oil rig they hired caught fire OUTSIDE US territorial waters, and the huge Deutsche Bank fine. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 24/07/2020 10:15:36 Richard No not really, he admitted that one customer was cheating, and it was an off the record technical discussion over lunch. The cheat was quite subtle in any case as it relied on no steering inputs during the test, that was the que for the system to enter 'cheat mode' B. Exactly. And the cheat doesn't affect Ricardo's work or the buyer's perception of the car. Though VW's response to those UK buyers who feel cheated on the pollution aspect has been dismal.

Posted by Barrie Lever on 24/07/2020 10:20:12: Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 24/07/2020 10:13:34: Posted by Barrie Lever on 24/07/2020 09:05:18: Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 24/07/2020 07:20:47: Posted by brokenenglish on 24/07/2020 06:41:00: Surely HK can't be the only company marketing this stuff? Plenty. But the USA usually only prosecutes 'foreign' companies, which of course HK is. EG Volkswagen for false pollution figures but they don't even investigate GM or Ford, I. Richard I have it on the highest authority (Director in Ricardo's) that Ford were squeaky clean in the emissions scandal. Ricardo's organised a conference and invited all the major motor manufacturers (their clients) just after the scandal broke and the only manufacturers to not show where the Germans !! B. Barrie, Be a daft director who admitted their customers were cheating, Ricardo would never get their business again. Not that they would tell Ricardo anyway, it's what they do after Ricardo have faffed around with the engine that counts. And the US authorities didn't even investigate the US companies because they didn't want to find anything wrong. It's all part of US protectionism. See BP's huge fine when the US owned, maintained, and operated oil rig they hired caught fire OUTSIDE US territorial waters, and the huge Deutsche Bank fine. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 24/07/2020 10:15:36 Richard No not really, he admitted that one customer was cheating, and it was an off the record technical discussion over lunch. The cheat was quite subtle in any case as it relied on no steering inputs during the test, that was the que for the system to enter 'cheat mode' B. Exactly. And the cheat doesn't affect Ricardo's work or the buyer's perception of the car. Though VW's response to those UK buyers who feel cheated on the pollution aspect has been dismal.

Posted by Barrie Lever on 24/07/2020 09:05:18: Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 24/07/2020 07:20:47: Posted by brokenenglish on 24/07/2020 06:41:00: Surely HK can't be the only company marketing this stuff? Plenty. But the USA usually only prosecutes 'foreign' companies, which of course HK is. EG Volkswagen for false pollution figures but they don't even investigate GM or Ford, I. Richard I have it on the highest authority (Director in Ricardo's) that Ford were squeaky clean in the emissions scandal. Ricardo's organised a conference and invited all the major motor manufacturers (their clients) just after the scandal broke and the only manufacturers to not show where the Germans !! B. Barrie, Be a daft director who admitted their customers were cheating, Ricardo would never get their business again. Not that they would tell Ricardo anyway, it's what they do after Ricardo have faffed around with the engine that counts. And the US authorities didn't even investigate the US companies because they didn't want to find anything wrong. It's all part of US protectionism. See BP's huge fine when the US owned, maintained, and operated oil rig they hired caught fire OUTSIDE US territorial waters, and the huge Deutsche Bank fine. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 24/07/2020 10:15:36

Posted by kc on 20/07/2020 16:55:58: Jeff, glad to see that you can build lighter than the average modeller. David Boddington explained the the Mini Super was a reduced version of Ernie Websters Super Sixty hence the credit. The article in AMI goes on to say Keil Kraft accepted Boddos reduced plan and paid him 15 shillings but redesigned it with wider fuselage and tricycle u/c. Boddo said the AMI plan ( Outerzone one at the moment) is the original form taken from the original tracings but the elevator extension is shown. The article states the wingspan as 45 inches, but the plan states 48 inch while the free pull out plan from AMI Nov96 actually measures 46.875 inches with 3.125inch fuselage. Did the printed Outerzone plan measure the same? ( span includes centre section of course so each wing half is 21.875 inch ) "and developed by....." The usual Boddington BS. The 'reduced' Ernie Webster (by then KK's lead designer) one was already kitted by KK long before Boddington came on the scene and the fuselage widening is totally unnecessary. It also lacked the equally unnecessary 'upper' vertical grain  3/16 sheet fill in as the longitudinal grain 3/16 lower section (not  a 'fill in' but part of the fuselage shape)   was quite sufficient and it did have elevators but they were glued on and set flat. Incidentally neither Oz plan is the original Mini Super plan, which of course lacks the Boddington accreditation as he had no involvement.. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 24/07/2020 08:20:09

Posted by brokenenglish on 24/07/2020 06:41:00: Surely HK can't be the only company marketing this stuff? Plenty. But the USA usually only prosecutes 'foreign' companies, which of course HK is. EG Volkswagen for false pollution figures but they don't even investigate GM or Ford, I.

Posted by Christopher Morris 2 on 23/07/2020 22:17:27: Any recommendations of a Ben Buckle alternative dihedral style plane. Looking for a 2 servo no aileron simple to fly electric beginners plane around 60" Whilst shopping around, the ben buckle's were very short on the ground. Thanks Believe it or not you are not compelled to built the kits exactly according to the plan.

The comments so far indicate it's all a 'lucky dip'. 1) There are very few actual cell manufacturers. 2) Some suppliers are just 'assemblers' of bought-in cells and having 'assembled' them into packs put their own label on. 3) The rest have the actual manufacturer assemble the packs with the suppliers label on. (That's a common practice for all sorts of things - my previous Mercedes had no Mercedes made content at all and Mercedes didn't assemble it either.) 4) The cell menufacturer changes according to present availability and/or the lowest quoted per cell price. 5) The claimed C rating is never true. Attempt to draw the full claimed 'continuous' current from  the high C rated ones and the external wires would melt even if the cells survived. Don't believe me? Take a look at the thickness of the wire to your car starter motor., and they are only used in 'bursts'. The wire would be even thicker if they  were used continuously. Used 'sensibly' I've never had the expensive Thunder Power or the old quite cheap 'Intellect' batteries from Ripmax fail in service and all have lasted a reasonable time. Some Overlander ones have failed but then I buy far more of those. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 24/07/2020 02:12:06

Posted by Engine Doctor on 23/07/2020 16:28:15: Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 23/07/2020 15:59:02: I like pumped engines but the pump diaphragm is a built in failure mechanism. Particularly so if you use 'after run' oils. (Three in One oil destroyed my fishing reel 'rubberised' handle in seconds.)   If your using Three in one oil as a after-run oil your asking for trouble . Its horrible stuff,is acidic/ sets like varnish and will probably destroy any diaphragms or rubber bits by making them go hard or brittle . Use a proper oil designed for after run or Air tool oil . If treated properly diaphragm pumps are not "built in failure mechanism" . They do require replacing occasionally and are a serviceable item. I fully agree about Three in one and would never use it in an engine. In fact I haven't used it on anything for years. (I use Mercedes branded silicone based light oil meant for the seals on their 'hard top' convertibles in my air retracts and it's fine.) Any part that requires replacement before the whole thing wears out is a failure mechanism. It's why such things need to be replaced. Oil filters, suspension bushes, windscreen wipers, and brake discs on cars are other examples. As for OS, I very much doubt the pump diaphragms are readily available in the UK (though I admit I have not so far needed to try). Anyway OS say not to take the pump or regulator apart under any circumstances, not that I can see it doing any harm. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 23/07/2020 16:58:37

Worldwide there aren't many Lipo manufacturers and most are in China. Even Thunder Power of Las Vegas, which was the first 'consumer' supplier of all, has only ever 'assembled' them. Saft of France was an early 'genuine' manufacturer. I dunno if they still make them.

Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 23/07/2020 15:30:37: The chap in the OP is probably wishing he never asked.. Gangster, sorry, it just triggers me as no amount of arguing will make the nose up test any less pointless...unless the engine is pumped, then it can be used to help detect pump failure. Counter intuitive huh? OS prices are...inventive, especially the 4 stroke side. If you want a cheap 2 stroke there are plenty 2nd hand or some new offerings from just engines. 4 stroke you only have Laser and saito to pick from if OS are deemed to expensive. Richard...i did have stock I like pumped engines but the pump diaphragm is a built in failure mechanism. Particularly so if you use 'after run' oils. (Three in One oil destroyed my fishing reel 'rubberised' handle in seconds.) Lasers selling well are they? Good show. But I probably won't even start my Spitfire until the winter. But I could do you one of these ultra-thrilling 'box opening' videos if you like

Posted by Nigel R on 23/07/2020 15:09:02: And you are not talking about OS prices "becoming nonsensical". I think the UK prices of OS engines have become nonsensical. Obviously I think that or I wouldn't have posted that opinion. Comparing prices today with past prices is pointless. It's comparisons with today's prices of similar 'good quality' products that matter. Thus my OS/Laser comparison.

Posted by Nigel R on 23/07/2020 10:09:25: ......."But unfortunately OS prices have now become nonsensical." Cobblers, complete and utter, demonstrably so. I paid around £100 for an OS 61 RF in the early 1990s. From bank of england figures, £100 is worth £220 today. Just Engines sell a 55AX for around £150, and a 65AX for £172 - neither are £220. Let's go back a bit further: In 1974, an OS 60 FSR was £54 - source: old review of 60 FSR £10 in 1974 is apparently worth £105 today. That would make the 60 FSR sticker price £567 today. What we no longer have, is the cheap stuff (Sanye) from assorted low labour cost countries undercutting the market.   Cobblers to you. We are not in 1974.. Today: OS 72 FSa II £420 (Ripmax - in stock). £379 (Just Engines - not in stock). They can quote any fairy story price they choose for something they haven't got. Laser 70 £239 including postage (in stock). That's £181 difference. So not yet started Warbirds Spitfire meet  Laser 70.   Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 23/07/2020 15:06:19

That elevator rod looks very thin to me. On one of my planes I stiffened it by soldering a length of small diameter brass tube round it, leaving the forward half inch exposed thus allowing for the 'down' movement.. For heat reasons you should do this outside the plane, inserting the rod from the rear afterwards. And make sure the end  of the plastic tube is firmly epoxied in place (roughen it first),  and the same at the front end   Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 23/07/2020 09:47:32

Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 23/07/2020 08:12:38: Richard im in agreement apart from the nose up test. Its just a complete waste of time, not at all representative of in flight conditions and only leads to engines running excessively rich. I dont know how or why this pointless exercise has endured over the years but there we are. Beyond that, yep all sounds good although i always recommend checking the main needle at the start of every flying session. By that i mean 5 seconds to tweak it back/fwd to make sure its right and not half hour before every flight revving the thing and waving it around in the air. Jon, Yes, It is probably more of a 'ritual' than anything else. I find myself doing it even on pumped engines

Posted by Charlie Whittaker on 22/07/2020 17:28:39: Hi I am new to the page and new to the nitro plane hobby (I’ve had never nitro cars before but no planes I have recently bought a free flow drainpipe special with a mds 40 nitro engine in it, it is running very poorly (I will attach a video) please could someone put me in the right direction of tuning thank you     Further to Martin's, Jon's, and Richard's comments I would like to add that none of these cheap OS 'clones' seem to be much good. But unfortunately OS prices have now become nonsensical. I had an SC 60 where the carb was so leaky, both for air and fuel, that it wouldn't stop when the throttle was totally closed. However, here's  how to adjust the throttle: 1) Full throttle is easy. Run it flat out, slowly screwing the 'main needle' in until the engine reaches full power. Wait a bit each tine until it 'settles down'. If it stops open the needle a few clicks and try again. Having got it running ok hold the plane vertically nose up and if it stops open the needle a few more clicks and try again. 2) Back to horizontal. Close the throttle, leave it for a few seconds and suddenly open it. If it stops 'cleanly' open the 'idle' needle a bit and try again. If it pops and splutters with lots of smoke it's too rich so close the idle needle a bit and try again. 3) You may then have to go back to 1 and make a small adjustment to the main needle. 4) Having got it right DON'T constantly fiddle with it on the field to try and make it 'better'. Such 'further adjustments' should nor be needed often, if at all, unless you are at opposite extremes of temperature. 5) 'Nitro'. Despite what some people call the fuel engines don't run on 'nitro'. it it is just a small and optional additive. Just a few percent at most , Zero, 5% or 10% is the norm. 5% may improve the idling slightly. 10% gives marginally improved 'top end' performance but is hardly worth the extra cost.. Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 23/07/2020 07:28:19

Posted by Andrew Klos on 22/07/2020 23:59:53: .... and going all soft and sticky in a couple of years no matter how much care you take of it. ... Richard, There is a very simple and effective solution for the rubbery-sticky-soft plastic coating. Isopropyl Alcohol, the one being used for cleaning electronic equipment. Surprisingly simple and effective. Just wet a piece of clean rag (flannel is good) and rub the rubbery coating off. I cleaned one of the remotes like that. Unless this is a different type of yucky plastic... Andrew, Thank you very much for that, I shall try it on my black 'old shape' Cockpit. Multiplex must have eventually realised there was a problem and I recently purchased a new black Royal (Evo) SX to use as a spare for my older silver one. With luck they may have changed the finish specification but possibly they have not.