Rich Griff

Thanks for that Allan, probably would not have occurred to me. You live and learn...

An array of sensors for that "arc" or an array of magnets, to trigger/influence one sensor ? Any part numbers on the sensor ? What make is the tx ? Can you post a picture of the sensor. If it's Futaba, ripmax may have a new sensor, but more like a new gimbaled stick unit.

Thanks RW, will go and have a look-see, as well as threads on here, and else where. Head like a sponge at the moment.

Paranoia reduction, still learning about electric propulsion. George did say just use the main lipo and the ESC "bec" facility. The dedicated Rx battery use depends on the proposed models all up weight, which is some way off time wise... The 4max sheets say stuff about duration time and 80percent battery usage etc., Which I have to suss out. A bit more kit to get I think. Bench test and familiarisation of the complete system ( tx and set up, binding, Rx, ESC, motor etc. ) to achieve first. All new to me. 35 meg was so simple in comparison. I need to relearn stuff as well as learn new stuff. Relearn how to crawl, then walk, re reach A standard then practise practise practise with safety first mind set. I fully appreciate electric props can start to turn unexpectedly catching out even experienced modellers. Even a paw 19 can fire up unsuspectingly if flicked. All help greatly appreciated.

Gosh, that jeti one is even more expensive. Yes getting your hand In quickly and reliably is a concern... Would take a further second or two to get to the stick. I hand launch with my right hand and can reach the stick no problem at the moment, but adding a muff and a further second or two would be concerning... Practise makes perfect, but there is always the "inevitable" to consider, sods law I suppose.

Gosh, expensive bit of kit by the looks. You do Shelsley Walsh hill climb at all ?

Ah, 911, that didn't occur to me. Porsche used nikasil early on I believe, pictures would still be nice...

Yeh, think I will use NiMH Rx battery pack with similar for tx... The old Futaba challenger had nicads 4.8 and 9.6 so NiMH would be ok for them also, but need to check. Electric propulsion, I know the ESC supplies the Rx, but I would probably use a dedicated Rx battery pack, all up weight dependant. Reading the 4max sheets that came with the heavy lipo batteries, fire was mentioned umpteen times, as was stuff about using the battery power. It's a steep learning curve this lipo stuff. Looks like I am gunna have to get a battery checker and watt meter as well. I have a temp measuring gun. Lot of faff with electric propulsion... I'm learning... Less faff with IC I feel...but with looming problems that are only gunna get worse, electric is the way to go, sadly.

Ah, 911, that didn't occur to me. Porsche used nikasil early on I believe, pictures would still be nice...

That hacker one does look good, very good in fact, but tooo pricey....food for thought though....

Oh, nice, some pictures please....Lycoming ?

I am sure I have read on here that some people are utilising batteries of more than 5 volts to power up the Rx and servos. A voltage regulator has been mentioned. Would that be 7805 or similar. I don't know what the amps load demanded of the servos would be, as 7805 can go up to 2 amps from memory, I would need to check. Or is a more advanced voltage regulator used ?

Yes, that's the sort of thing but with much wider hand holes so it's easy to put your hand in quickly.... An inflatable one with wide open hand holes might be better... I will be wondering around the shops later this week looking for suitable clear plastic to start with, for a non inflatable prototype home made affair, possibly the plastic bags for clothes that you hoover down, hope they are cheap ! An inflatable affair could be made to keep its shape, large hand holes...

Yes, for me that would be the rudder or aileron stick, the one on the right.... So a well thought out easy to use and quick reliable stick thumb placement needed....as well as a window to see the battery meter.

Throttle high when turning on tx ? I think I read somewhere that the tx will only make the motor " hot" as in "live" when a set sequence is performed on the tx ? A safety feature ? The Rotory "motor kill switch" is a good idea. All this to come for me this weekend in the model room when I eventually get to bench set up the radio gear...

Deans connection just arrived, ordered yesterday from 4 max. I know see what George ment by the other connectors being better quality and more user friendly. My bag of sweet for tonight...

Quite, hassle free and really secure battery retention. This old dog is learning, honest.

Thanks Marty, yes, as hassle free as possible, hopefully " fool proof" and "fail "safe"" too. Read tooo many " the lipo flew out" , " the battery moved altering..." and "radio failure put down to battery problems" , determined not to let that happen to me. The only crash I want is " pilot error" which are the best type arnt they ?! ?

Thanks Simon, that clears that little " unknown", there will be others... Thanks.

Mainly aimed at slope soaring, any one made a wind/cold cheating muff for your tx and hands, one that can fold up to fit in your pocket, made from see thru plastic ? Even an inflatable one ?

Thanks for the replies so far, will read up the threads mentioned. Will the ESC be damaged if powered up and not connected to the motor and the tx tells the ESC to allow power to the motor, accidentally or otherwise. When the deans connectors arrive for tge charger lead " converter lead" I will be commencing my radio playing with electric power on the bench, motor mounted and clamped to bench, propless. My first experience with 2.4 radio and electric power, so a steep learning curve. I understand a set procedure has to be followed so motor will run, but that bag of sweets is for the weekend, no rush. Was thinking about fitting the 4max bundle £25 setup in a double scale kk ff t + r + e Lysander or kit kk0042, 18inch doubled up to 36inch, no aerobatics. I have the remains of a parkfly Piper cub ish foamy as an alternative, a scaled up chipmunk guillows 903 to 34inch, but all those are one or 2 of my winter project. I have to relearn how to crawl first via powered glider and slope soarer...

Gosh, perhaps a servicing nipple for the rockers, a one oiling point for them with dedicated oil ways, but then some spark will fit the gaskets the wrong way which then block the oilway, so lots of thought needed so that cannot happen, with oe parts at any rate. Perhaps a dedicated syringe so required oil quantity injected at the 3 hour check and service. A sight glass for oil level checking prior to the days running ? Not researched laser engines yet but I think I saw a chap who made them way back in the 80's/90's at llyn penrhos site ?

I am new to electric propulsion and on the steep learning curve. I have yet to even plug in stuff and am fully aware of prop danger. Is there a heavy duty power switch to isolate the motor from the battery ? I have been advised to allow the ESC to power the Rx, so wondered about a hd power switch for the motor. If the ESC is powered on and outputting to the motor, with the motor disconnected either by hd switch or motor wires, will be ESC be damaged ? The motor is 3 phase so the switch will have to have 3 inbuilt switches moved in unison. Or am I being paranoid with this. There will be more seemingly daft questions, but if you don't know it are not sure, it's best to ask. Please help gentle.

Yep, some times parts exploded views can be exceedingly usefull, especially for the tyro or those who are not sure. It's good to know sometimes that the prop driver for example is held on via taper and collet, sometimes even a d type drive is not obviously, but point taken. It's best to check... Pity about the chrome coming off...

Did you download the setting up program ? Mine is the Bluetooth one, yours is the computer lead one ? Haven't touched mine yet so have these questions to come. All I want is a basic set up 4 channel, nothing fancy.