Malc. Nicklin

Please can anyone help please I'm just into Gas models after 55 years of glow motors and now I want to pull back the landing tick over back by using the left hand proportional Cntr 9 left hand rotary slider on my Graupner MX22 TX. I see it can be done in Heli mode but for the life of me I can't see how to program it for fixed wing. All I want to achieve is to be able to pull back the idle on the landing approach to slow the model down without reaching for the throttle digital trims. Please can anyone help, other than recomending changing the TX as this MX22 as served me well for 7 years and it's a great peace of kit. Best regards from Perth Western Australia. Malc.....

Have you seen the movie the Wizard of OZ? They find out the old chap was not a wizard after wards, say no more. All Methanol fuels contain water as soon as it’s mixed and then decanted unless it as a blanket of dry Nitrogen over the top of the liquid. Put some of your fuel in a small clear glass bottle and leave it out in the sun for awhile, you will see droplets of water forming in the neck of the bottle above the liquid. I bet you motor was still running ok with this water in the fuel was it not? Ok leave the bottle out for the rest of the week in the sun then use it in your motor, tick over not so good, well the water is still in there as it was before but the sunlight as affected the Nitro methane content. What about all this dirt the WOO says get sucked in through the exhaust then pushed into the tank through the pressure nipple. Oh the dirt is being sucked up by the positive pressure in all that thick oil and pushed down a near static flow into the tank………….Ya right. Those little fibres and Hairs you find in the tank filters. Do we have to tell this chap what that gritty stuff is in methanol that looks like white threads and dirt? They are very small particles of white, flaky calcium deposits in the fuel system which is normal and unavoidable. What about the comment in December 2012 “Go with the flow” again from the WOO, and I quote: If your model is flying very fast, the weight increase on the fuel in the tank- being pushed back by the models forward motion – is so considerable that the engine could quite well benefit from a larger – throat carby due to the increase in fuel pressure. End of quote. Please give me a break this chap should stick to cut and paste articles about motors and the leave the engineering work to us true engineers. Down under we would not let this turkey touch a motor with a barge poll.

Again thank you Martin I'll try and get some and give it a go and let you know how I go on, I used the heat gun on some of the other screens I have done but this one is odd ball for sure and I may just use the flat sheet without too much bending and not bother with these bumps and just fold it around the top part and down the sides and then trim it up. I can't understand why they went to all that trouble to put those two bumps in it instead of the normal Cub screen.  Many thank again I'll try and get some in the week as it's Saturday night here in OZ and time for bed . Catch ya later .  Malc.  

Hi Martin,  Thank for the response and the ideas and I think we will call the Plasticard just that  or (PETG) never mind the full handle. Now I have look at a lot of Cub Photos and model photos of same and mine is a bit of an odd ball.  The kit was produced in Japan around 30 years ago so I'm lead to believe by a company called Jet ( only just found that out this morning)  but are no longer around.  Now I say mine is a odd ball the top of the screen near the wing leading edge is curved there  as the norm and then curved again to meet the the former which will be F2 then back out again to the other side.  If I may be so bold it looks like a BRA ......the bumps go over the leading edges both sides of the screen.  I have not seen this profile on any of the photos of the normal Piper Cub so I'm thinking was it a mistake they made all those years ago when producing the kit? Now then the sheet where did you pick it up from,  is it used  in the stationary business and what sizes does it come in ? Thanks again for your help and I may just try the flat sheet and the flame thrower trick.  Many thanks mate . Malc.....      

Hi from Perth Australia, I have been given a 25 year Piper Cub model ( kit manufacturer unknown) and I have re built the old lady so far to the point of the windscreen.  I have the old screen which I could use as a template but I need help in curving those nice bits around the leading edges of the wings. should I make a mould and vacuum the sheet to profile and this is where I need help please. Malc.....        

And the Winner is >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.  Malc Nicklin of Perth Western Australia Oh thank you so very much  I thought I would never win.... Malc......

Hi chaps, well I started something and nice that people have taken note of the problem.  NiMH use the same sort of electrolyte (potassium hydroxide) and the construction of both cells are basically the same so you can expect to have simular results with NiMH cell but I have not personally seen it. Some times there is a residue of electrolyte left over from the manufacturing process which can start the ball rolling, soldering directly on to the nipples of the cells instead of tags will get it started very quickly as these cells don't like getting localized heating. There is a good artical on this site re using Li Po's in the TX which I think is one of the best ideas yet. I beleive in the future all our gear will be supplied with Li Po cell technology so the problem will go away.  Happy Landing Chaps .  Malc...

Come on I live so far away that must count for( SUMMAT LADS) Happy Landing to all. Malc...

I live in the  most isolated city in the world Perth Western Australia, I can only wish, you are so lucky to have all these fine model shops. So let it be me PLEASE.

I have never had a ARF kit in 50 years so if I win I'll find out if they are as good as some make out they are.

 “Black Wire Syndrome” is terminal not just to the battery pack but it as the ability to travel along the Negative wire through the on/off switch and continue through to the printed circuit board in the equipment itself. I’ll not going into details about the (electrolyte gas creep age) and the technical crap but it can be caused by leaving the gear in an uncharged state for long periods and don’t forget Ni Cads self discharge over a period of months. When this happens the cells go down to zero volts and allow the electrolyte to escape from inside the cell and mix with air and if it’s damp were they are stored the electrolyte and moisture turn into potassium carbonate and the problems start. It can also be started by the batteries getting to hot or have been soft solded and the heat as warmed up the cell to much.   What to do to save our valuable equipment from the dreaded Black Wire Syndrome, if you are thinking of storing the gear for any length of time remove the batteries from both the model and the transmitter and check to see if there is any white powder or the leads are starting to get brittle change the packs at once and also check the wiring harness in the model to see if this is going brittle and change that also. Don't try and save it get rid of the cable before the Black Wire Syndrome Cancer gets into the equiment.  This can be a saftey issue so please check it out   Happy Landings  Malc. Nicklin VH 56289

In the receiver there are two and sometimes three Crystals in the recever depending on if they are single or double conversion. Most modelers know about the crystal that they change to move the operating frequency but there is also an IF resonator crystal .  All these crystals work by vibrating at very high frequencies in the  Khz and Mhz range and the construction is very thin  ( modeling film thick ) and placed in between to spring contacts in that little metal device you put in the transmitter and receiver. These devices are very delicate and must be protected against all vibrations yes even in gliders. See Bob Cotsford's post .............."1/2" thick foam and rubber bands" the only way . In electric models the vibration is very high and you would be suprised about the vibration coming from the high pulsed current from the motor  into the airframe.

Hi I have been making radios for 50 years now both Ham and RC and instructed in radio and electronics.  The antenna is like a tunning folk it has to resonate at the operating frequency to pass the maximum amount of energy to the receiver at that frequency. If this set up is for 35Mhz the true antenna would be 7 feet long , not very practical. The electronics compensate for the short fall in length by tricking the antenna that it is resonant at that frequency. If you fold the antenna back on it's self or cut it the frequency of operation will be higher and you will loose signal strength at the front end of your receiver. What ever you do don't fold or cut the antenna try putting it down the length of one of the wings or just let it blow in the wind behind the model. The antenna is the most important part of the receiver DON'T MESS with it.