Edgeflyer
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The problem of the misaligned and slightly pathetic ply discs was now tackled. The wings put tigether with the ply discs aligned left a large gap between the 2 wing inner ends hence the wobble when the model is put together. I decided to use a sharpened metal tube (actually from an old wardrobe hanging rail, which is nice and thin walled steel of about 15mm diameter. I used it like a Cork borer. Sharpening the end with a file makes this easy. No heat necessary and I ensured the resulting hole , taking out foam and ply disc is central in the tab, rather than referring to the discs as these are off centre. Now I used masking tape to cover the bottom on each tab to make a seal over each 15mm hole and mixed epoxy with glass micro balloons into a fairly thick lightweight filler. These was aplied into each hole. The masking tape ensures a nice level lower surface when set. Fill to just below the top as it us easier to fill the top surface when ghe bulk has mostly set after 20 minutes. Picture to follow
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Repeat for other wing
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A piece of sharpened piano wire is useful here. Sure enough the top holes middle holes and nuts are in line. The problem was that the little ply discs fitted into recesses in the wing root tabs were not best placed. I put that problem off for a little later. Meantime strengthening this weak wobbly tabs was done by warming a 1mm piano wire and carefully inserting in 2 places per tab from the outer edge, sighting from behind the trailing edge to ensure the wire hits the middle core of the wing where it thins out into its section. I use just enough heat from a gas flame and do this in several takes, otherwise an overly hot wire melts a hole that gradually gets wider as the wire goes in. What you need is midway between melting and drilling.Then it is simple to coat a 2mm carbon fibre rodwith epoxy, leaving the rod way over length, insert gradually working the epoxy into the drilled hole.This needs multiple insertions, which is why cyanosis is useless for this as it grabs the rod before the glue is evenly dispersed. After the rod is fitted, I use a dremel with 2 inch grinding disc to cut the rod level with the foam.
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Next step is to mask tape over the holes in the fuselage where the bolts drop though, so I know exactly when the new wing joiners will be in line.
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Next having got pliers onto the slipped nut and removed the very long wing bolts, I liberally coated around the nuts with epoxy, with the bolts just filing the threads and some grease on the bolt ends. As the epoxy sets, twisting the bolts keeps them from sticking.
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Sorry, patience please, I have to learn how to do posts and add pictures. First step was to reopen the old inspection "hatch"below the wing to gain access to the offending nlind nuts.
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pesky blind nuts. fill with epoxy (insert greased bolt first)
Edgeflyer posted a gallery image in Member Albums
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A big downer on the design of these otherwise fair models is the way the "removable " wings fail at the roots. The typical review finds that the bolt holes don't line up so you can't easily rig on site. Having acquired a very well flown tired Bixler I found I couldn't remove one bolt as the blind nut had slipped inside. Here are the steps I use to tackle some much needed fettling.
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In the sense that the Aurora 9 brought in simple intuitive touch selection from menus, definable channel allocations, user defined switches etc. For example you touch a picture of the tx switches to decide which switch controls a feature. Once you have used this technology you find the older systems of inputting codes and numbers and dependance on the manual rather outdated. Several times I returned to my Eclipse to use on 35MHz and later 2.4GHz for slope soarers (as I didn't want to take the Aurora tx on the mountain) and it now seemed irritating. For instance, selecting Glider mode for an electric soarer (the only way to get differential ailerons) put the motor control on a switch with no way (at least none I ever found) of opting to control speed on the throttle stick. With all newer radios and especially the Aurora, this programming would be very simple. Hence my opinion, that for the money it's best to move on with the technology rather than keep flogging dead horsed and throw good money after bad. If your interest is in keeping vintage stuff going ( I still have Macgregor 4 channel stuff somewhere, but I wouldn't want it in my moulded glider) that's fine and good luck to you! Have a look at what brand names like Turnigy and Walrkera (Devo 8 etc) are offering for the money BEFORE you start lashing out £90 for a module and rx to keep an old tx alive - that's all I'm saying. I think the days of Futaba, JR etc keeping prices high on the myth that only they make reliable radio are going fast and yes, I've owned (and sold) those brands too.
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I wouldn't go this route again with the benefit of hindsight . Last year I converted and used an Optic and an Eclipse, using a Spectra module + 2 Optima 7 Rx's bought from HK for about £55 including delivery. Both worked fine, HOWEVER in programming terms they are old technology now. (The new Eclipse Pro may be ok, don't know). INSTEAD shop around for a 2nd user Hited Aurora 9 channel - superbly useable and it's chalk and cheese compared to the Optic 6. Touch screen, all defined switches, LiPo battery etc etc. I paid £160 for one WITH an Optima 9, Optima7 AND Optima 6! All pretty much as new! Then sold my Optic,2.4 module and Eclipse separately on E**y. Ended up in profit! Aurora 9 - Definitely the best value gear and most reliable on the market imho. Futaba and JR? way overpriced especially the rxs. (I have used them all plus Sanwa in the past).
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Imported Air Retracts - any good
Edgeflyer replied to Edgeflyer's topic in Model Engineering and Accessories
Also sold in the UK by Slough Model centre -
Has anyone experience of some of the air retract sets being offered online, imported from US. I am looking at THESE or THESE They look good and the price is good even allowing for tax, compared with say Eurokit. Edited By Tim Mackey on 24/11/2011 23:16:37
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Does anyone have a non runner or damaged OS FS 40 (preferably surpass) that I can salvage parts from? It must have an undamaged crankcase. (Other condition not too important)
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