Jump to content
Please be aware of scammers when using the Sale/Wanted forum areas

Phil Winks

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,360

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Phil Winks

  1. Phil Winks
    Posted by Martin McIntosh on 30/05/2015 16:31:38: Question for Richard or anyone who can help. Just finished balancing and covering a set of AJ blades to try. They are 460x42mm. Looking at Rich`s JPEG it would seem that the bolt hole is 11mm from the LE and the shim 10mm behind this. Before I drill them, is this correct because the CG of these is way behind the 11mm mark? Also, from looking at Rich`s, the shim was only about 4mm from the bolt hole centre. What do you use which works? Martin the bolt hole should be 1 mm behind the chordwise cog, which is usually at the back of the spruce le section on those blades. Then 10mm from the blade root, and the shim should be 9mm behind the bolt all measurements from the bolt hole centre
  2. Phil Winks
    Thats looking great Chris, good to see you've got your priorities sorted models V gardening, models must win every time
  3. Phil Winks
    Posted by Chris Barlow on 14/05/2015 17:33:02: Phil, treated myself to a new folding bench this week! Finally found some in stock near me! Nice one Chris you'll soon be wondering how you did without it
  4. Phil Winks
    One more mod to the Atom tail feathers at our first show off the season Paul at electriflite showed me some carbon reinforced balsa , it's 2mm balsa with a very thin carbon fibre covering both sides lighter than liteply and stronger too, it looked like the solution to my constant hanger/landing rash the tail feathers suffer, pricey but I thought in long run it could just be worth it so one weekend later
  5. Phil Winks

    Phil Winks posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  6. Phil Winks

    Phil Winks posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  7. Phil Winks
    It certainly did that Chris in a very convincing manner, with my atom UC I added an fg plate inside the fuse and greased the UC then part filled the holes with epoxy placed the uc back in and when it set hey presto a perfect fit, the grease did its job and the uc is still removable Edited By Phil Winks on 12/05/2015 20:24:04
  8. Phil Winks
    Sounds exactly like the maiden of my HK 109 eh Chris? by the way it files nicely now with a little more forward COG  something you might want to consider for your Atom Mark Edited By Phil Winks on 12/05/2015 19:43:47
  9. Phil Winks
    my new lipos arrive by parcel force from elmsett (hk uk warehouse) and clearly state on the package what they are and a warning not to ship if the package is damaged so i'd try them though it will cost about £11 Edited By Phil Winks on 10/05/2015 21:39:04
  10. Phil Winks
    Posted by Janos Deak on 05/05/2015 21:41:27: Apart from my copters, this will be my first time flying a plane with a gyro... that makes me more nervous than without it, which should be on the contrary, right? Quite right as long as you check the control corrections are going in the right direction (elevator goes up when you lift the tail etc) and you turn it on at a reasonable altitude 1st of little can go wrong, follow the above advice and you may even question whether or not its activated at 1st then its a case of very gradually increasing the pot settings one at a time till you can see its having an effect in moderate wind, properly set and moving the plane will produce only a barely discernable control surface reaction
  11. Phil Winks
    Posted by Chris Barlow on 05/05/2015 19:16:14: Thanks for that link Phil. It's now in my watch list awaiting approval from the house treasurer. Aside from the £'s I wonder what this is going to cost me??? I wouldn't like to think fella probably something equally costly. If your going for the Eutectic set, I'd suggest you need these or these as that set only comes with one large No 4 or 5 nozzle, great for welding up to 3mm but over the top for delicate brazing and silver solder jobs, and it uses a lot of Gas, I have the 1st set sizes are the same, prices are the same and those look far more robust to me also the holder doubles as a key to change the nozzles.
  12. Phil Winks
    You see that must show how my abilities over the last year and a half since I returned to the hobby have improved as on 4s I find her quite manageable where as on 3s I find her very tame. not my memories of just a year ago!! You will find that the gyro can take several flights to get right and the movements of the individual pots is miniscule between just right and well out, my technique is to chose a calm day and start with minimal settings and a well trimmed aircraft put her across wind to see if the roll holds, into wind for the yaw and watch for the difference between attitude change on power increase with the pitch setting (if its set right the model will stay straight and level on power increase assuming its trimmed to climb slightly with the gyro of as it should do) another time you will spot excessive sensitivity on yaw is on the dive and climb out into wind from a stall turn, you get a very pronounced tail wag easily stopped waggling the wings slightly seems to cure it, that or turn it of
  13. Phil Winks
    Mark that was a very quick and efficient build indeed, the end result is great too, I have just one small observation, your mast securing screws are just where I 1st put mine, and being so close to the fuselage exit its exactly where mine broke on my first botched landing, since then I've changed to a single screw much lower down and slimmed the mast by 1.6 mm in both directions and reinforced the mast from 5mm above the exit point to its base with 0.8mm FG plate epoxied on, so should I break it again it will hopefully break outside the fuselage making removal a simpler job
  14. Phil Winks
    Posted by john stones 1 on 04/05/2015 22:21:50: Well she was good to you on at least two occasions Phil John Far more than two John but thats a forbidden subject on here oooh did I actually say that out loud hush my mouth
  15. Phil Winks
    Chris its not an oxyacetylene but oxy map gas, much safer and cheaper, Arguably, there are 3 varieties out there the oxyturbo 90 110 and 200 kits, all a bit pricier than the Eutectic/Castolin sets (which I have) and a Swiss made set the name of which escapes me the oxyturbo are slightly more rugged and favored by roofers for lead welding where as the Eutectic sets are very suitable for DIY use in small workshops, both have fully interchangeable fuel/oxygen bottles and nozzles and the delicacy of the flame with the micro nozzles is a real boon when silver soldering/brazing small parts. as a trial I used mine to both braze and weld 3mm mild steel bar, and braze 16g piano wire and it does both admirably with just a change of nozzle. You do have to shop around for the best prices for the fuel/oxygene bottle but they do last pretty well in a small workshop environment. Edited By Phil Winks on 05/05/2015 19:10:37
  16. Phil Winks
    Posted by Vinegar Dave on 04/05/2015 20:15:16: Surely to walk with potentially a live electric or even an IC aircraft can't be the safest surely , when i flew hellis the ruling of the club was you did not arm it until out on the flying patch or where you were intending to take off stationary this then made it impossible to turn the blades on the way if you slipped so what is then the difference with planes as its still a prop ?. It's a rule that is taught that i can't get my head round to arm the aircraft while walking when there is no need to do so. I will always follow BMFA guidlines but i have to say i struggle to understand that one This is precisely why I fit and promote the use of deadman plugs on all electric powered models wherever possible IE: this plug simply provides a failsafe way of breaking the positive battery supply wire to the ESC effectively disarming the model from outside, ie: no need to remove wings or open bty hatches to switch it on and of, so before picking the model up remove the plug, whether that is in the pits prior to moving to the flight line or while recovering from the runway. It's part of my routine and I encourage all electric model flyers to make it part of theirs, after all a finger in an electric prop arc won't stall the motor, just make it work harder !!!! with obvious results.
  17. Phil Winks
    external vie of deadman plug
  18. Phil Winks
    I agree there is no need to arm an electric motor prior to putting it on the flight line ready for takof except while it is tethered in the pits to check functionality during the pre flight inspection and I don't believe the BMFA sets hard and fast rules for this more guidelines for clubs to use to determine their own rules
  19. Phil Winks
    I have to admit I've given up on them now, seems a total lack of stock will kill them eventually despite good Service
  20. Phil Winks
    Learning some lessons here Chris. My next but one build, maybe next but two, has functional flaps and slats so some very useful tips here. The wire bender will be a God send mate couldn't do without mine now. Personally I would've brazed that under carriage, but only because I can thanks to a £100 present of an oxygen/gas torch from the better half, God she's good to me occasionally
  21. Phil Winks
    Learning some lessons here Chris. My next but one build, maybe next but two, has functional flaps and slats so some very useful tips here. The wire bender will be a God send mate couldn't do without mine now. Personally I would've brazed that under carriage, but only because I can thanks to a £100 present of an oxygen/gas torch from the better half, God she's good to me occasionally
  22. Phil Winks
    That all sounds about right, on the subject of the gyro remember to make it possible to disable it as your not allowed to take your A with any gyro assistance, that said keep the gyro for windy days as it will allow you to fly when others are packing up because it's to gusty, also remember if the gains are set for trainer mode they will be over sensitive in sport mode, unless you can reset the gains from the TX you won't be able to switch modes in flight without first switching the gyro of, also my preference is for a fair bit of expo on first few flights, it helps prevent you from over reacting
  23. Phil Winks
    Differential is indeed not needed per se but in the process of improving its flight characteristics I did indeed set differential mechanically by angling the servo arms forward ten degrees and the tenancy to hang her tail in a turn despite rudder input has vanished
  24. Phil Winks
    while I can't imagine how he can envisage selling what at a cursory glance looks like an sc40 for that price the postage is what parcel force 48 charge for a standard small parcel
  25. Phil Winks
    Posted by Mark Stringer on 28/04/2015 14:03:53: Just a quick question .. to those that have / haven't added a tail wheel do you feel it helped / wasn't needed? Just wondering whether to go with the skid especially as I have enlarged the rudders, or add a tail wheel .. Thanks .. is it really just 5 days to the next session?! The tail wheel only helps when the need to taxi back occurs makes little difference on take of
×
×
  • Create New...