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Glenno

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Everything posted by Glenno

  1. Thanx for all the feed back. The fan is for a 4s battery. I will test fly with 2 of the 4s 2650mAh in paralel( or add lead) and then try the 3s x two in paralel. The bottom line is -I dont want to buy bigger batteries that will take a big chunk out of my modeling savings!! but will if I have to. Shame realy as I thought I was onto a winner!!
  2. Question- My Lander RC panther ducted fan needs a 4s battery,which I have(2650mAh), but they are not heavy enough for the plane to balance.If I run the 4s battery and record the watts and amp draw. Can I use 2 X 3s batteries in series (which will give me the weight,but now a 6s) then set my TX throttle end point to match the figures I recorded on the 4s battery. Am I dicing with death?? Thanx
  3. Baddad- Im so glad to see another successful flying BV215. My wife looked over my shoulder as I read your report and said "I take it from your smile it flew ok". The swelling of my heart and the lump in the throat answered her question!! Yes it makes me proud that all my effort was not done in vain. Enjoy Glenn
  4. converted the stuka to Rudder/elevator. changed the cox 049(never flew it with engine in) to brushless outrunner. covered in dope and tissue. Battery goes in hatch to the right of the exzort. Paint job from real stuka flys great-keep up the speed up . Infilled the stringers around the nose area. only flew a few times-to good to smash up!! Glenn c
  5. Sorry about that Tim finnished my WW11 experimental twin-Mcdonnel XP 67 Moonbat. Glenn
  6. Great looking BV215 Mike. Glad sombody made one that flys. I was starting to think I designed a dog! love the paint job and the nose looks great too. I made a Sukhio SU37 with a paint job the same. Kept losing it in the turns. finnished my new WW11 experimental twin-Mcdonnel XP 67 Moonbat. Glenn      Edited By Tim Mackey on 06/01/2012 17:54:17
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  11. Hi Guys.Sorry for not answering for a bit but I have been away recuperating. The C of G is as follows 11.5 cm from the trailing edge where it meets the fuz.12.8 cm for the first test flight.(forward C of G point). There is plenty of room in the fuz to move the battery about-use a 1500mAh 3s battery. It will fly with a 2200mAh 3s battery but it is a bit heavy for it the back plate(motor mount) is at 90 degrees to the wing- I.E- zero down/up or side thrust . The wing tips are also set at zero degrees angle of attack. . Throw at 3/4 throttle and open up to full throttle if needed. Honestly the plane fly`s very well indeed. If built right there should be no dramas!! It even fly's inverted 2 feet of the deck!! Best of luckGlenn  
  12. Grasshopper sorry for the delay but Ive not been well. My throws are 3mm reflex-both elevons are 3mm fixed in the up position elevator--15mm up=12 mm down-with rates 12mm up=8mm down aileron--8mm and 5mm with rates. i hope your test flight is less frantic this time Glenn    
  13. Tim I did add the links useing the method sugested Glenn
  14. Looking good Jozef. What canopy are you going to use?? are you fitting drop tanks? what colour paint job are you going to use?? did you have any problem with the plan?? GlennEdited By Glenno on 05/06/2011 23:26:32
  15. jozef, the number2 prop adapter should have 2 big screws on it so you can wrap rubber bands around the prop and the screws to hold it on the shaft.Like this you should have a star shaped plate with 4 mounting holes in it to go on the motor face that has the 4 threaded holes for the 4 screws you have in the photo. Like this the number 3 goes on the other face that should have 3 threaded holes in it,you should have 3 alan bolts to hold it on.   The motor is not big enoth for the model.I have changed my motor to this on my BV215to this with a6x3or 7x4 prop.   or this motor   or a motor of 50gram/25amp/200w motor. hope this helps Glenno  Edited By Tim Mackey - Administrator on 05/06/2011 23:34:50
  16. All the 215`s I made there was no issue with the skins sticking down. I did spend a good time (making sure) that all the ribs were in perfect harmony so the balsa skin touches all and every part of the ribs when it was pressed down on them. I used uhu por on all the 215`s. I had thought of using 3mm depron but just went with balsa as I thought it would make the wing stiffer and stronger.
  17. Ernesto. I made sure that the balsa for the wing skin was very flexable. you should have no problem trying to make it bend. If you have to make new wing skins then do so as you dont want to put any stress, as Erflog ,says on the wing. You can apply water but only sparingly. As for my colour I thought it looked different and thats what I had planned. I would not go with a boreing Grey/Black basic paint job. As the real plane never got off the ground you can do what ever you want. The camoflauge police wont come down on you!!
  18. Tom Not a scultpure- a chef by trade. The pink foam from B&Q is not the same as the blue foam that I have used in the past. It is slightly more spungy and it is more "ding" resistant. It seems to (me anyway) be a lot easier to sand and cuts more cleaner. Quite often when I am gently sanding for the finnal timel the blue foam will rip off a sliver so you have to sand more or use filler. It comes in 11/2 mt x 500mm and it costs £4.80 and I used 1 sheet for the XP 67. Remember this is just my take on the blue foam verses the pink stuff. I may well be conning myself but I dont think so.
  19. I have just finished a McDonnell xp67 moonbat.I have wanted to make this plane for a while and I knew that I would have to use blue foam. I find blue foam always rips and you have to sand it gently. I got some pink foam from B&Q and it is fantastic to work with. You can use the roughest sandpaper and really go with it and the foam loves it-never rips or takes chunks out of it.Seems lighter and stronger (no proof yet) and sands to a very fine finish.all foam was cut/shaped with band saw/ scroll saw/ long hacksaw blade/ razor plane stab and elevators are balsa  
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