Tim Kearsley

Hi all, I've just purchased a Ripmax Spitfire and I'm pondering on what motor to put in it.  Any recommendations, bearing in mind ease of fitting etc?  I've seen that quite a few people are using the Axi 2820/10 but a hobby shop fairly local to me stock the Dualsky range and I'm wondering if there's a reasonable equivalent there. Anyway, just be very interested to here what you've kitted your Spit out with. Cheers, Tim.

The external power consumption, whether it be 350 mA or 500 mA seems very high to me.  What draws so much current do you suppose?  Surely it's just a CCD or CMOS sensor and a bit of solid-state circuitry? Cheers, Tim.

Thanks Michael - interesting comments from the forum.  I presume that forum is at the FlyCamOne website is it?  I always find it hard to know exactly what they are saying when the translation to English is a bit "iffy"! From your comments David re. the lipo dying in the cold it seems that this is a widespread problem.  I wonder if keeping the camera really warm, say at 25 degrees C or something similar, immediately prior to attaching it to the model would keep enough heat in there by thermal inertia to give a decent duration?  Trouble is of course that there is a fair airflow over the camera during flight, so the "wind-chill" is quite high.  I find it a great shame as it's a real drawback in an otherwise very useful bit of kit.  My own experience today with not being able to get external power working is another blow! Cheers, Tim.

Has anyone got the FlyCamOne V2 to work properly with an external 5V supply?  I tried to today with absolutely no joy at all!  I checked the volts were present on the correct pins (+ve on pin 3, -ve on pin 4) but the camera runs for about 5 seconds and then dies. Cheers, Tim.

Thanks for the reply Al. Yes, it is the V2.  Well I thought I had been charging it like that but it seems to have not taken much charge.  That's why I wondered if the switch needed to be on.  I'll give it a go. Cheers, Tim.

Hi all, Just gave my new FlyCamOne its first outing this afternoon, mounted underneath my Seagull Extra 300 EP.  Results are pretty good except that the battery gave out after about 5 minutes! When you charge the FlyCamOne via the USB port (camera LCD display shows "PC")should the switch on the camera be ON or OFF? Many thanks. Tim.

Good point Evan.  You're right - I fly mode 2! Cheers, Tim.

Thanks guys.  I've found that I'm getting the hang of the down-elevator input during the inverted portion, albeit slowly, but at the moment only on a simulator.  I've only just begun "B" test work with my instructor and so far have only tackled a loop and explored rolling the aeroplane by giving it a bit of up just before commencing the roll (to accommodate the inevitable loss in altitude) and then executing the roll with no elevator input at all.  It's instructive to see just how much altitude you do lose during the inverted phase. Timbo - thanks for the explanation  - I'd forgotten I'd referred to an earlier thread! Cheers, Tim.

Thank you very much for the input chaps - much appreciated. Timbo - what do you mean by "He is"? Cheers. Tim.

Hi all, This question was inspired by the "B Certificate" thread over in the "Beginners" forum (is that really the right place for it?!) I'm just starting to work toward the "B", having gained my "A" a couple of months back.  Re. doing a slow axial roll, What stick inputs do you usually need to keep it axial?  I know that a little "down" elevator is needed when the model is inverted, but do you also have to co-ordinate opposite rudder inputs during the period that the model is knife-edge?  I'm slowly getting the timing of the elevator by working on a simulator but the thought of putting in dabs of rudder twice per roll is, to put it mildly, daunting! What's the answer you aerobatic experts?! Cheers, Tim.

Thanks for the comments chaps.  Interesting thought Timbo re. Blu-Tack! I used a "low-tack" masking tape as I'd found from bitter experience that the grey surface of the Twister pulls off rather easily!  I agree entirely David that  close inspection inevitably reveals the imperfections.  However, the imperfections on mine at the moment are visible from rather further away! Cheers, Tim.

Hi Scott, Well I remembered from the review of the Twister that David did a couple of months ago that he'd used similar paint, so I was confident that it was safe on Elapor! I guess you're right re. using very light coats to avoid the "creep" under the masking tape.  It's like everything else isn't it - a learning curve! Cheers, Tim.

Hi all, What are the techniques for successfully spray-painting foam models?  This weekend I masked off some of my new Multiplex Twister and sprayed a wing panel with red Plasti-Kote paint.  The paint has taken to the surface OK but has "crept" under the masking tape terribly! Any ways of dealing with this?  I suppose the tiny cracks and holes between "cells" of the foam allow the paint to wick under the tape by capillary action. Any advice would be gratefully received. Cheers, Tim.

Well thanks very much to all those who have added some very helpful comments.  It sounds like there are a number of people "going it alone". just this morning I was out for a walk and spotted a Funjet buzzing around the sky!  I found the guys flying it and stopped and had quite a chat.  It turned out that they were part of a group of just four - not a club - who had use of what is a superb field.  Unfortunately I don't think they wanted anyone else!! I've written to some local farmers and I'll wait and see what comes back.  In the end I just want to fly my models, safely and legally but when I want to and am able to. To you Andy, by the way, I'm in East Northamptonshire, close to the borders of Cambridgeshire and Bedfordshire. Cheers, Tim.

Well there's some interesting replies there!  Unfortunately, I don't have any decent sized parks close by. Has anyone had any experience of approaching a local farmer or landowner for permission to fly a model in a field?  I know of several fields locally which look as though they could be very useable for occasional flying but how the heck do you find out who to approach for permission? Cheers, Tim.

David, That's most interesting.  It's good to know that the uninitiated general public can appreciate our skills! I suppose what I'm really looking for is a quiet spot where I can develop and improve my skills to the point where I'm at ease flying in the company of others.  At the moment, although I'm competent to keep the model in the air without drama I do still feel self-conscious. I do only fly electric at the moment and I will definitely keep I.C. flying for the club. Cheers, Tim.

Good points, all of 'em!  I do acknowledge the dangers of flying alone.  My own opinion is that we sometimes go over the top with attempting to eliminate all risk but that is of course just an opinion. Notwithstanding those points though, I would be very interested to hear of anyone's experience in negotiating with local landowners to be allowed to fly a model aeroplane or finding opportunities to fly outside of the conventional club environment. Cheers, Tim.

Hi all, Fairly new to model flying, but I've persevered and just got my "A" certificate.  Now the learning really starts! I've applied to join a club but sometimes I'd like to just go out and fly on my own for an hour, perhaps after (or before) work.  Do any of you have a site where you can go and fly when you feel like it?  Also, does anyone have any experience of approaching a landowner with a view to being allowed to fly a model occasionally?  I only fly electric power at the moment, so noise isn't much of an issue. I know the BMFA regard flying a model alone as a no-no because of safety issues, but in all honesty is it really any more dangerous than solo walking, climbing etc? If you do fly alone, does the BMFA insurance still cover you?  I'd be very interested to hear of experiences in this area. Cheers, Tim.

Thanks for the comments David and for the images Timbo.  That's exactly the sort of idea I was coming up with Timbo.  As it happens, I've found a dealer who stocks spares for Multiplex models (Punctilio in Hinckley) and a replacement motor mount is only £4.  The old one came out easier than I thought once some cyano de-bonder was wicked into the joint.  So, hopefully, the MiniMag will be in the air again soon! I managed to get a few flights of the Seagull Extra EP in this evening (with my instructor and the buddy-box!) before the rain started.  Now that's a very nice aeroplane! Cheers, Tim.

Hi all, Well unfortunately I've had the first crash of my short R/C flying career so far!  I flew my MiniMag in too strong a wind and lost control.  The resulting meeting of model and earth resulted in the plastic motor mount breaking.  The problem is that the plastic mount is cyano'd into the foam fuselage, so I doubt I'm going to be able to successfully remove the remaining part of the mount. Anyone any idea how to effect a repair?  I'm using the Multiplex BL-X 22-18 brushless motor.  There's no other damage to the model so I'd like to get it in the air again if possible. Any advice very welcome! Cheers, Tim.

Well I'm pleased to report that my Extra 300, complete with HS55s and repaired tail fin was taken up for its maiden flight on Tuesday by the guy who is instructing me.  It flew absolutely beautifully and looked superb in the air!  I took the Tx myself for a few circuits and while it certainly felt a bit different to my little MiniMag it wasn't difficult to keep in the air.  I'm really looking forward to flying this as I become more proficient! Thanks to all who have contributed on this. Cheers, Tim.

Well this is worth knowing before I launch my nice new Extra 300 into the air!  And there was me naively thinking that building an ARTF was simply a case of following instructions..... Thanks for the heads-up.  I'm hoping that the guy who is teaching me to fly will maiden the new aeroplane tomorrow so I'd better see what I'm going to do about beefing it up. Cheers, Tim.

Hi all, I'm putting together a Seagull Extra 300 EP and wondering now if I've dropped a clanger in the servos I've bought (my total lack of experience showing through again!). I've bought Hitec HS55's which physically fit perfectly.  However, I'm wondering now (which I should have done BEFORE I bought them) whether in fact they are man enough for the job (torque-wise).  The control surfaces on the Extra 300 are quite large.  The stated torque for the HS55's are 1.2 kg-cm.  I understand the units and what they represent but trying to quantify what is actually NEEDED for this aeroplane is beyond me! Any thoughts, you experienced chaps? Cheers, Tim.

Hi Tom, The "C" rating is in essence a multiplier to give you a measure of the current that the battery can safely supply.  For example, if the battery is a 2000 mAh (milliAmp-hour), 20C rating, then it can safely supply 40 Amps (2 X 20).  If it was 25C rated then it could supply 50A. Hope that helps. Cheers, Tim.

Just thought I'd round this thread off by reporting that this afternoon I fixed the mess I'd made earlier by splicing in a new bottom section of the broken fin.  I used Timbo's method and effectively "pegged" the two sections together with several short sections of carbon fibre rod.  It all looks (almost) as good as new! Thanks to everyone for their help and advice. Cheers, Tim.