Tom Doyle

Thanks Robin, it’s all helpful. I suppose what I’m ideally looking for are some sketches showing how the various components are fixed together etc however, I’m beginning to realise that is unlikely. I have sufficient experience and know how to work out my own methods but it would have been useful to see what the designer had planned. Regards Tom D

Thanks Nigel, I have sent them an email but no response yet. I’m not sure if they are still in business.

I have recently bought a second hand KA Models Ov10 Bronco kit but without any plans or instructions, has anyone got any experience with these to offer help and advice please. Tom Doyle

I have recently bought a second hand KA Models Ov10 Bronco kit but without any plans or instructions, has anyone got any experience with these to offer help and advice please. Tom Doyle

Yes, good video. I see you're not too far away from our club. I'm with South Cheshire based on the outskirts of Middlewich.

Meant to say great photo Paul. Is that your actual model?

Thanks again guys for your feedback. My wing is now glued and the wing bottom is flat. Interestingly, and I got this bit of info recently from a well informed model shop proprietor, the new ARTF Wots Wot is actually designed by Ripmax, albeit based on the original by Chris Foss, hence the various differences. If this is wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me.

Thanks guys, I think Cuban8's link is the final proof, a flat bottomed wing it is.

Thanks Mr B. that's a great help. I'll be gluing up my wing later today - with no dihedral!

I have considered that Bob but with others having already built and flown the model, I was taking the lazy way out.

Thanks for your replies so far, reassuring to know model flies OK with no bottom wing dihedral. Question, how did the fit up of the interplane struts work out? Were they long enough? If they were the correct length, then to my way of thinking, the designer intended the lower wing to be flat with no dihedral. With dihedral on the lower wing, I'd expect the struts to be too long because dihedral would reduce the gap between upper and lower wings.

Has anyone building the new Ripmax Wots Wot encountered a lower wing dihedral issue? The instructions on page 3, Step 5, refers to dihedral on the underside of the wing joiner implying that when fitted, it would induce some dihedral on the lower wing which, I understand, is a desirable feature on biplanes. With my wing joiner fitted, and the two root ribs of each wing half butted firmly together, the underside of wing is perfectly flat. If dihedral is intended, how is it to be set because no dimensions are specified in the instructions?

Sorry to be the one to give negative feedback but I and three friends attended on the Saturday this year and, having visited this event every year since it first started, have to to say it was the least enjoyable. My overall feeling was it has become more of a competitor driven event and less of a spectator spectacle. I'm the first to acknowledge the sheer brilliance of the skilled pilots, and once again, the Dutch guys were still the ones to beat, but heat after heat of the same schedule eventually became monotonous from a pure spectators' view. In previous years there seemed to be more variety and fun to keep the audience entertained. Even the raffle wasn't up to the standard of previous years - yes I know we are going through tough economic times. All things considered, I'll be thinking hard before setting out to another EIM.

Love landings, regularly practise touch and goes. Also enjoy knife edge, right to left, can't master left to right. Hoping latest Horizon Hobby 3 axis gyro will help me achieve that.

I can confirm that standing in hot water for about 20 mins does in fact reverse the crystalline texture having done it several times over the years with both 5min and 30min Z-Poxy. The epoxy is restored to its original state and I've found no detrimenet to its qualities.

I don't like admitting this but HobbyKing seem to have a pretty good range of model pilots. I've just ordered the same pair for my Tucano as Caveman, thanks. Reading some of the earlier posts on epoxy, I use 5 &30 minute Z-Poxy and have never had a problem. Something newcomers may not be aware of, and is worth knowing, is that methylated spirits acts as a good solvent for cleaning off surplus epoxy, before it sets. In fact, I use meths to thin epoxy. For example if I need to use a bit of glass fibre mesh in a repair or local reinforcing, I'll mix the epoxy in the normal way and use upto 20% meths to get a 'paint consistency' for stippling the glass fibre. The meths eventually evaporates and the epoxy sets and hardens normally; curing time just takes a bit longer.

Thanks guys, very helpful. Tom D

There are too many post to trawl through so sorry if this questions has been covered but can anyone tell me where I can get a suitably sized, preferably pianted, pilot figure for the Tucano (Nigel Hawes' design)? I've looked at Pete's Pilots on ebay but they seem too big. I reckon a scale ish size would be 1/12th to 1/14th.

Thanks for reassurance Tim, re weight.

Thanks Bucksboy, I'll report back after first flight or two. Shame you can't remember about using any lead up front. How about the AUW of your model? The blue underside doeasn't really bother me but then, I'm not a scale purist! Tom

Thanks for info Ian. Although not quite ready to fly, it is ready for your static display on Saturday. Tom

Hope it's OK to add to this topic after such a long time but I've just completed a Sportsman Aviation Spitfire which I bought a few years ago. My choice of motor up front is a Saito 82. After several frustrating hours trying to get the mechanical retracts to work, I binned them in favour of a set of Horizon Hobbies electric retracts which cost more than the model, but worth every penny. What I am alarmed about is the 14oz of lead needed up front to acheive CoG. Is this normal? It will take all up weight to just over 8lbs. Another niggle. The cockpit canopy is very brittle, after all this time I don't suppose spares are available? If not, will a canopy from another kit fit?

Pleased Claudio has found a kicker which is not compatible, I was beginning to feel it was all in my imagination. I'm convinced the ZIP Kicker I used was the culprit. Up to now, I've tended to regard kickers as almost inert substances, just goes to show, they can do more damage than cyano. A good lesson learnt albeit a rather expensive one.

Used Zap thin with ZIP Kicker and foam just melted before my very eyes.

A warning to anyone about to build a Jamara Roo not to make the same mistake I have just made. Jamara’s instructions advise the use of Cyano adhesive but nowhere does it warn the builder to use ‘foam safe’ Cyano. I don’t need to explain the outcome after using normal Cyano. Needless to say, the model is a complete write off and is now in my local recycling centre. I have a lot of model building experience with foam materials (I’m actively involved in indoor flying) and have a very good understanding of glue requirements where foam is concerned. But one of the factors which misled me with the Roo was its high gloss finish that is often associated with the type of foam which does require ordinary Cyano. This, together with Jamara’s instruction to use Cyano, without specifying ‘foam safe’ led to the blunder and the disastrous consequences. What has really disappointed me most about this sorry saga is after sending three emails to Jamara, pointing out the shortcomings in their instructions, they have chosen to totally ignore me. Not the best marketing strategy in our niche aeromodelling marketplace.   Tom D