Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk
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Everything posted by Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk
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Paul, i think both of these points have been discovered earlier in this thread, part H3 is too long, by about 10mm from memory, and the pivot hole needs to be in the lower position shown on the two drawings, I made mine to the template drawing and could not achieve enough movement when assembled. The hole position on the assembly drawing allows the correct movements, Malcolm
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Posted by Erfolg on 21/03/2013 18:03:08: I have been thinking about the bearing assemblies used from gearbox type applications. I suspect that they are primarily designed for radial loads, rather than thrust. I am not sure that it matters, in most cases. It is perhaps worthwhile examining the arrangements , just to satisfy yourself, that there is not a potential problem. Erfolg This issue came up on the cranefly thread sometime back. At that time I looked up the spec of a 3mm ID bearing, it was rated at 300N radial load and 75N axial load, so i dont think there should be any worry. These bearings are also used with axial loads on every brushless motor draging your plane around the sky with the prop pulling on the weak" axis Malcolm
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Tim, Sometime back you asked about completed weights, I'm on final assembly now and the total weight is coming out at 1.7Kg without battery, so that will add another 300g. Malcolm
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If you want the rods as vertical as possible, then another factor which determines if the rods are vertical is the hole used in the servo arm connecting the rod. I randomly chose hole 4 (from the servo inner) and it looks like I'd need 50% rated down travel to get the correct movement, so as I finalize the setup it looks like I need to halve the mechanical movement (or a bit less to allow for any changes after test flight), Which Servo holes did the flight tested models finish up with? Malcolm
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Thanks John, Koen, I must have missed the earlier post. As I said i've already taken 3mm off the bottom of HD1, so I'll take the same of the top of the tongues which will alllow the fuller roll movement. Malcolm
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Rich, I've been having a small problem with setting up the head movement. I'm not sure if this has been reported previously on this thread - I don't recall it, or maybe its just my build, but I have check all components against the plan and they seem correct.. The 5mm hole in HD1 appears to be in the wrong place. It is placed too close to the hinge line, such that when the head is mounted in the tongues, the top of the tongues is above the hinge line. The effect of this is that HD1 cannot tilt forward to achieve the -1 degree tilt, (I could only achieve +2.5 degrees), and it also restricts the roll movement, but I can just get the +/- 15 degrees. To achieve the -1 degree I've had to take about 3mm off the bottom of HD1. Ideally I should remake HD1 part with the 5mm hole about 2-3mm lower Is it me or the plan? Malcolm
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Rich, RCM&E arrived this morning with an excellent concluding part to the Panther article, well done. Progress uipdate; Just starting on the blades, cut the blanks and glued on the spruce edge, there is only 0.3g weight difference between max and min blade weights, and all span cog within 2mm. Thats just how they came out - although I carefully chose my wood. So if the balance isnt good when I've shaped them, then I'll have to take the blame Malcolm
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David, Please don't try to sand down fibre glass to thichness, it just won't work. The different thicknesses of FG do have different strengths and flexibility. FG sheet is made by impregnating a woven fabric of glass strands with an epoxy and fused under pressure or temperature. The thickness (diameter) of the glass strands will be different in a thin sheet to a thicker sheet, if you expose or damage the glass strands by sanding you will start to loose strength and may get premature failure of the sheet. and btw FG dust is very nasty stuff! Full protection would be needed Malcolm
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John, Giantshark have them £3.50 for 5. They do them in several colours but only seem to have stock of the purple Malcolm
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David, I did a google search and came up with these guys: Fabrum. They stock 0.8mm G10, but its whether they will sell it to the public or just to businesses, or if they have minimum orders. Must be worth a call as they may put you in touch with some of their resellers. Malcolm
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Armsafe - is it safe
Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk replied to Peter Roberts's topic in General Electric Flight Chat
Sometime back different connectors were tested on the Giantshark forum and max current rating provided. I think one of the main problems is that although we think we have Deans connectors we probably have a cheap clone with inferior performance Malcolm -
I thought I'd share how I made my Delta Plate, maybe others have different of better techniques. First I re-drew the plate in doubleCAD (free download) as I like to have sight lines or at least centre points for drilling holes, and the thinner lines on the print enhance accuracy. I first shaped the plate on the bandsaw and trued up with a flat permagrit sander. The jig is a small piece of MDF with a 6mm hole and a piece of 6mm dowel (wood or metal) with the first rotor mounting hole lined up the Jig is clamped in place on the pillar drill and the hole drilled, for the next two holes just rotate the plate on the jig - guarantees that all 3 holes are the same distance from the centre hole. The jig only took 2 minutes to make. Malcolm
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Weekend Giveaway
Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in All Things Model Flying
yes please, I may even have to learn to read! Malcolm -
Problem - no power to motor
Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk replied to steve-richards's topic in Electric Flight for Beginners
also (I may be stating the obvious and I'm sure you've done this) but you must have the Motor connected as its the Motor which makes the beeps not the ESC Malcolm -
Problem - no power to motor
Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk replied to steve-richards's topic in Electric Flight for Beginners
I suspect you have not calibrated the Throttle limits. This is a common first step for many ESC. DO NOT DO IT WITH PROP ATTACHED From the Manual (page 7): Powering Up the ESC for the First Time Setting the automatic calibration The JP EnErG Pro ESC features Automatic Throttle Calibration to attain the smoothest throttle response and resolution throughout the entire throttle range of your transmitter. This step is done once to allow the ESC to “learn and memorize” your Transmitter’s throttle output signals and only repeated if you change your transmitter. X 1. Switch your Transmitter ON and set the throttle stick to its maximum position. X 2. Connect the battery pack to the ESC. Wait for about 2 seconds, the motor will beep for twice, then put the throttle in the minimum position, the motor will also beep, which indicates that your ESC has got the signal range of the throttle from your transmitter. The throttle is now calibrated and your ESC is ready for operation. -
Rich, Thats an ingenius bit of thinking and problem solving design by Jim or Jochen, but begs the question as to how this effect is achieved on the plain triangular delta plates used in many designs? or do we just rely on having a constant negative shimming on the blade mount? Thanks Malcolm
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Robert, Although it is not mentioned on the plan, the article in the magazine on P70 "Creating the Cowl" calls for 2 degrees of right thrust, which would mean offsetting the enging mount to the left by about 4mm so the motor shatf exits centally (you may need to calc exact offset depending on your engine length etc) Rich, Appologies for butting in and answering a question directed at you - but you should be working at this time of day! lol Malcolm
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Posted by Richard Harris on 27/02/2013 16:36:30: This motor will do the job aswell MOTOR , swinging a 12 -13" prop on a 4s 3000mah set up with a 60-80 amp esc. Rich rich, Thats good to know as thats the one I have (although it came in Black rather than Red). The only problem I came across with it was that it has a blanking plate that needs to be removed to fix on the prop adaptor, the screws used only went into the body about 1 turn, so I had to order some M2.5x8 Countersunk head from ebay. Malcolm
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Bucks Composites
Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk replied to Codename-John's topic in R/C Retailers / Distributors / Manufacturers
John, I echo that 100%. I've placed several orders with them and the service has been superb!! On one occasion I needed some resin for a particular job, when I called them, they asked what I wanted to do, then advised me that their resin would do the job but would not last as long as the specialist resin required, and told me where to go to get it! By turning away my business on that occasion they have guaranteed they will be my first choice for future glassfibre/resin needs. Malcolm -
Thanks Guys for the compliments, much appreciated. It makes the last few weeks worth it! A couple more photos before the big cover up, A couple of things I did differently as seen in the photo. I went for large round ventilation as its easier to cut (drill) than slots. I have gone with a built up tailplane, mainly because I like when the Sun lights them up!, but it also saved about 15g on the weight which was about what I have added by using a rear mounted rudder servo, so hopefully cancel each other out. A close up of the Cowl - just because i'm so pleased with how it turned out - the first one I've ever carved! (only been modeling 25yrs, still learning) An inside view (not pretty). I made a duplicate F1 and cut away the centre section, I fixed this to the main body with captive nuts and it screws to the model from inside the battery bay. I then built up the balsa blocks on to the F1 frame - It meant I had something solid and tangable to sand the shape, rather then a pencil line or paper template. The ventilation air inlet is a buckle, I'm embarrassed to say I was in a dress making shop and saw them. The tail wheel is just a standard tailwheel I had lying around, I need to make the plate to fit on the bottom of the rudder as I've lost the original. Erflog, The Undercarriage, I have to admit, I bought from dbsportandscale.com - they make custom undercarriages - minimum charge is £10 + p&p so I got this for £13. Just send them dimensions for a quote, they turned round very fast. (I did also get some Dural from them so I'll make the next one!) Malcolm
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Ready for a final sanding, and then time to put on its clothes Malcolm
