Pete Collins

Hi I've only just found this thread. Been intending to build another Flea Fli for some time, my first was back in the eighties. No problem with the nosewheel steering then, just built it fixed! Point it in the right direction before you let go and the rudder gives it enough steering to keep it straight once up to speed. It was powered with an Enya .19 and was definitely not underpowered. My main memory of it was that it did the fastest vertical outside snap rolls I've ever seen, Much fun!!! Just looking for a gap in the building schedule now. If it does get nominated for the mass build then I might just shuffle some projects around and do it sooner. Great thread BTW - enjoyed reading through it!

Like most folks, I'm into pretty much anything that flies, but I do have some reservations about the local sparrowhawk since he decided that one of my smaller models might be breakfast! I wish I'd got it on video - would have got a million hits on Utube.

Hi GB I'm half way through a build of one as we speak! No major problems with the build as yet. I've just made a few mods to the construction. I've used block rather than curved sheet on the top corners of the fus as I don't fancy doing tight curves in 3mm sheet. I've turned the tailplane around and slightly changed the fin layout as, from reference to photos Tony had drawn the Tailplane back to front - an easy mistake to make, especially when using a CAD system. I've not come t5o the installation yet so I don't know how that will go. Il let you know how I get on as I get further into the build. Pete

OK Paulo If the difference is only a few mm then it's likely to be of no significance, I wouldn't worry about it. The only important thing to watch on this model, is that you choose really hard wood for the tailplane. This may result in needing a little leads in the noise to achieve the required CG position but that's not a problem, you do need the stiffness in the tail. Pete

I still can't see why you have a problem, I've measured the plan, and both wing root and Slot in fuz side measure 380mm. Former F4 goes across the slot, of course, and is accommodated in the cutout in the rear of the wing, but since the idea is that you thread the sides onto the wing separately and then assemble the formers etc afterwards, this should present no problem. Can you give any more details? Pete

Hi Paulo, I don't understand why your wing slots are small, I've just checked the mag plan and they look about right. In fact they give a nice indication of how to shape the top wing surface. Have you added the extra 3mm sheeting to the underside first? On the prototype this was done after assembly, so if this is already in place then the slot will need to be wider, check the assembled fuselage side view. IT won't cause a problem doing things in a different order, it's just that on mine it was added as an afterthought after test flying. Hope this helps, Pete

Hi Ray Glad the Maiden went well. It's really good to hear from a Happy 'customer'! Have lots of happy flights. Pete

Hi Ray Nice pix, Your Vector looks gorgeous. A good colour scheme, plus lots of orientation clues. I like the sneaky hidden servos, it never occurred to me to put them there! I hope it flies as well as mine does - you'll be a happy bunny!

H​I Unleaded The joint lines on the tail - where the tips crank up - does not have to line up with the wing tips! There is actually a slight overlap, This is necessary to get the incidence right on the tips. Just assemble the centre joint, make sure that the leading edges if the wing and tail line up and let the tail meet the tips where it comes. If everything has been accurately cut out as per the plan then all will be well. I don't know anything about the Turingy power system you'd have to go back to the manufacturer or talk to other users for suitable props, but as long as you're pulling around 150 - 250 watts you should be ok. you do use a wattmeter don't you!

Yes usually, but it's not a model that runs out of elevator on landing. I land on the glide with the motor cut as this is easier on propellers and the model doesn't want to come down with even a little power on. I don't flair out the landings much as this just makes it keep on flying - I usually just grease it in at a fairly level attitude. On the original model I initially used a 0/0 thrustline and this tended to make the glide fast and the landings consequently rather hot, but using the thrustline shown on the plan the glide will slow down nicely making landings much easier to judge..

Hi Dave, You're right they're not on the plan, sorry. I've just checked the prototype and the movements I've been using are: Elevator - +/- 10mm; aileron - +/- 10mm. These movements give a fairly lively performance so I soften them with 60% exponential, they also mean that, on combined full throws, the servos run out of travel which will, theoretically, introduce some control interaction in this situation. However I haven't noticed any adverse effects of this, so I've left it alone. I also set a combined rate switch that reduces both travels to 50% with 30% expo for when I don't want to be a hooligan. If you don't want to use expo then you should probably use a lower figure than I have to reduce any twitchiness. Even with the higher rates Vector is no 3D model, she's best flown fast and smooth - think 1960's jet doing an airshow.

Hi Mike The wings are just glued together as a single piece and then the reinforcing piece WR is glued on underneath to strengthen the joint. The fuz sides are then threaded onto the wing so that they fit snugly up to WR and the fuselage is built in situ. A quick read of the build article in the mag should help. Cheers - I hope this helps

Just read the previous post - Ah well - maybe a Dauntless next time!

What about a Douglas Dauntless It's hugely under modelled, very much the unsung hero of the pacific war, a sort of American Hurricane. It's got a nice simple retract system, and then you could have great fun with that lovely flap/dive brake system, bomb drop options etc. Most of all it's the type of model that Tony does best. It should be about 50" span and electric, with an IC option to please the luddites.

Hi Mike The Joint line referred to is the join between the two pieces of balsa necessary to get the grain directions right for the tip. However it is also the point at which you angle up the tips to produce the dihedral effect, and that's why the position of the line is important. The combination of the various angles means that the incidence of the tip is effected by the position of that line. In the same way the angle of the wing tips where the tail joins plus the slope of the tailplane gives the overall tail incidence. You'll find that the two joints don't quite line up, there is a slight overlap. Don't worry it's supposed to be like that.

Correction sorry - In my previous post I recommended a 6 x 6.5 prop for the BRC setup - my mistake, on closer examination it's a 6 x 5.5

Forgot to mention - You don't need a specialist pusher prop, just use a standard one, put it on backwards and run the motor in reverse. that way the torque reaction still works to the left as we are used to.

Forgot to mention - You don't need a specialist pusher prop, just use a standard one, put it on backwards and run the motor in reverse. that way the torque reaction still works to the left as we are used to.

Hi Olly, Glad to see you're thinking of building a Vector. I'll be interested to see how you get on. If you use the BRC 2812 1500 Kv motor You will need a 6 x 6.5 prop. That was the motor I originally used on the prototype. Remember to pick really hard quarter grain balsa for the 'tailplane', pretty much everything else can be medium light. good luck and happy building.

OK I know i'm weird but I fly 2 modes! Mostly I fly mode 1 in which case I always fly thumbs only, but somerimes I fly mode 2 in which case I fly 'fingers & thumbs'. I find it helps me to remember which mode I'm in - Useful in times of stress!

Yeah I got one of those and no I didn't check until after I'd cut it - Dumbo!!!   Still it's wonderful stuff cyano so no problem.

Hi David Re your request: I'm from Coventry and I'm with two clubs, THe Coventry &District Model Airo Club (CADMAC) and Nuneaton Radio Modellers. I don't know if any other members of either club are in the build - I'll bring it up at the next meeting.

OK got my kit - ready to start building!

1)  I fly mode 1 for fixed wing, but I am just starting to experiment with helicopters and for those I find mode 2 to be the only way to go.   2)  I am based in the Midlands   3)  I learned to fly in the midlands   4)  I learned to fly multi RC some 45 years ago and was self taught by the process of up-grading from Bang-Bang single channel - not too many professional instructors in those days - I even built my own RC set, a Remcon Quantum 6  

2 ideas   Graduate or Sorcerer's Aprentice