Frank Stevens

Can I put in some support for Mark Stringer's "Rat Out Of Hell". There has been some comments that no plan is available, so I am doing a trial build from Mark's PDF and build instructions. I have found no errors in the plan so far, and have created a kit of parts ready for assembly. I have felt that this would be a good choice since Mark suggested it, and having had a chance to work with the plan I can confirm it is not a difficult build. Frank

1. Piwakawaka 2. Rat out of Hell 3. Swamp Rat 4 Astro Hog 5. Barnstormer

Mark, your Rat out of Hell, If you have completed the drawings for your model please post them here. I would certainly build one (for electric) whether it is chosen for the mass build or not. My first preference was for the Piwakawaka, I have built a couple for club mates and a 20% bigger version for myself. Great flyer and not quite as twitchy as the original, but still very simple and quick to build.

Surely the important answer to Colin's original question is that how ever much the final cost is it will be much cheaper than any other supplier. That is why so many modellers all round the world use them. Yes, there is the odd glitch, but no other retailer can get even close to their prices. Giant Shark is probably the closest, but expect to pay the same amount in pounds as HK's price in dollars. Here in Spain the model shops charge about 50% higher than UK equivalents, so although I use UK internet suppliers when possible, most of my needs come from HK. Frank

I have stopped adding up the total I spend with HK, it frightens me (79 orders to date). I am in Spain at present, so use the Euro warehouse in Holland whenever possible, slightly higher prices but much cheaper carriage and very fast delivery, no nasty surprises as customs duties are already paid. If Colin is concerned about the $ prices, the home page has a box on the top RH corner where you can change it to £ or € I have never used this so not sure of the exchange rate HK uses. Twenty years ago I would probably carried on using my friendly local shop, but now it seems that minimum stock is carried and the sales knowledge is non existant. Frank

Have a look at the Turnigy one from Hobbyking and others, $17.95 from HK. I have been using one for about two years, invaluable for slope soaring. Very accurate and simple to use. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8508

1. Mode 2 2 Spain (Villaricos) 3. SE (Kent & Herts) 4. Various instructors   Some years ago I also flew gliders on a 2 channel, twin stick set, so Mode 1, but always found mode 2 more natural.

Just a thought, but did you use Balsaloc on the wood first, Fibrefilm has no adhesive so will not stick without it. I have a mini Rudder Bug covered in the yellow nearly 20 years ago and recently resurrected and flying again.

A bit late reading this thread, but Multiplex make the Pro version for brushless and recommend 150 watts @1200 Kv with 2 cell Lipo or 250 watts for the tuned (high performance) version. I have one on order and intend to fit a 200 watt 1000 Kv 0n 2 cell 2100Mah Lipo and 10 x 6 folder. I have seen one fly very well with this combination. If you want to really beat up the sky use a 250 to 300 watt motor, but keep to low Kv as folding props can break up over 8500 rpm

Timbo, you also gave advice about soldering irons (Min 50w + large bit). I tried last night with a Weller heat gun and a 25w iron - waste of time and a gold connector. I ordered a decent iron on line after that, can't wait for it to arrive. Incidently your original was a better picture, very easy to follow. Thanks again

Hi Timbo, I found it in a thread started by Ads who was thinking of soldering his 2mm battery connectors straight onto 4mm ones. Part of your help was to show a picture of the jig Funnily enough I was just about to throw out a bag of wooden pegs from the days when the club I was in at the time started a frequency control system where each member had their own peg to put on the board. I think this was because people kept taking the board ones home!! Coloured for 27mhz and orange with the No. for 35mhz, I seemed to get through quite a few - the missus couldn't find enough to hang the washing out. Happy days?????

Thanks for your replies, I feel much more confidant now. I am in the process of using Timbo's clothes peg jig for soldering the connectors - a very useful tip from the forum. Many thanks.

Thanks Bruce, that sounds like sensible advice which I will gratefully adopt.

Hello all, my name is Frank Stevens and I am returning to model flying after a lengthy gap (over 10 years). I have been modelling since the early fifties with control line combat & A team race, progressed to sport r/c and gliders in the seventies. Enticed back by the progress in electric flight. I am building a Cularis, and updating a couple of my old models to brushless/lipo power. I have managed to glean a lot of information in the forum pages, but I have one really silly question that will probably cause a few sniggers. I am using gold bullet connectors for the battery-ESC-motor connections, and I have a vague idea that most people use the male connector on the battery. This seems to me to be an accident waiting to happen, and surely it should be the other way round?