Mike T
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Posts posted by Mike T
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Well done to the team! I did wonder if the generally crepe weather would work to their advantage 😊
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There's a wide selection at Component Shop:
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I use a Du-Bro and the thing from Ali Express is a knock-off. My largest prop bore is 10mm and I don't think it's ever been a problem.
Re magnetic balancers, I came across a cheap little MP Jet 'finger' balancer - a bar with very sharp spikes at each end and 2 friction-fit cones. You hold the bar (gingerly) between thumb and forefinger to check prop balance. Having a lot of powerful magnets handy, I bought one to try and make my own magnetic balancer. Bleddy bar turned out to be stainless...
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Also known as 'habotai' (spellings vary) silk. Lots of places sell it, some remarkably cheap. You need the stuff that weighs 41gsm.
@David perry 1- re fabricland; antennas? Intrigued!
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I think the M actually means November (both I and L being omitted from the series, leaving M as the 11th number). On this basis I think mine is the 64th engine made in Nov 1947 (it could be 57, I suppose - the article explaining the numbering doesn't address how successive decades were recorded...). As you can see from my pics, mine also has the (very effective) fuel cut-off. Some savage* has previously butchered the alloy fuel pick-up and tank mount in order to plumb a 'normal' tank.
*me
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Mine has SPI, so expectations have been lowered accordingly. I've no idea if it was originally a marinised version either. When I bought it, it had no spinner nut or washer, nor tank and the comp screw was 'lent' to another engine. The one on it now I got from PAW. If I put it in an airframe, then all period features will be restored.
Can anyone confirm if the crank thread is 2BA?
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After you left I realised I hadn't tested the servos 😱 I assume they were OK?
Pity my sales patter wasn't good enough to persuade you to take my 1/4 scale Piper Cub as well! 😆
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Ha! 😁 Looking good, Gary! Fingers crossed for the weekend weather and the re-maiden!
Meanwhile, in other news, having drawn a blank on ebay and the BMFA for small glow engines, I rummaged through my own stash and found a near new ASP12. The bore of its carb is just under 1/4" and the carb spigot on the ED Comp special is 1/4" BSF, so I've ordered some taps from Chronos. The good thing is that this will have no impact on the Comp and if it doesn't work well enough, the carb can go back on the ASP (albeit with a few threads in the bore!)
It's a bit of overkill, but it's what I've got 🙂
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Hmmm. Food for thought. What's it going to go in though? I've got laser-cut ribs for an Outlaw, but I also fancy a cheeky Bugaboo...
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Brilliant! Thanks!
Although I've got a lathe, I think cannibalising a spare small carb is the way to go.
@brokenenglishI'm flying carb-less at the mo and you're right, it can be great fun:
But for a larger airframe with the ED, a little more control would be nice 🙂
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@Tim HooperWhat RC carb did you fit to your ED Mk II (or is it a Comp Special?), please? And what mods were required to get it to fit on the intake spigot?
(I bought one 2nd hand at the Nats in Hullavington back in '75. It would be nice to see it in the air!)
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I don't normally have (or air) prejudices about servos, but after your investigations are concluded, I would definitely ditch the Supertec servos, in any event...
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I'd just abrade back to bright metal the area you want to solder to. I'd abrade the blind nuts as well, unless they are tin plated.
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Choose a bolt length such that the plain section of the shank is mostly inside the wheel.
Bolt-wheel-nut-washer-u/c leg-washer-nut:
Dremel off the excess
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On 30/06/2023 at 14:41, Dickw said:
I am not sure where you get 3" for the length of a 4mm bullet connection, as mine seem much shorter.
My 6mm bullets are indeed shorter than the 4mm ones, and I have used them a lot in higher current applications.
Photo attached of 4mm and 6mm bullets both separated and together, plus a ruler confirming sizes/
Dick
Thanks for the pics of the 6mm bullets - look worth investigating.
Re the 3" - OK - I guessed, but I wasn't far off:
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After posting here earlier on, I was then unable to upload pics (Error 200) or reply on another thread!
PS - and this blighter went straight though! (banging head smiley)
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Thanks for the input chaps. I'm using Firefox with Privacy Badger and Ad Block Origin (turned off on this site). I've just turned off the PB to see how it goes - tho' the posts above were made with it on... Other than posting, I don't have a problem in navigating around the site and I don't seem to get problems with other sites. Speed wise, I'm on a 100Mb connection.
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...and as you can see, it doesn't happen all the time...
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OK - having established that I'm not wasting my time - I frequently bash out a lengthy post and hit 'send', only to get "saving...", whereupon nothing happens for the foreseeable future. I've just got this on private messages as well.
I usually copy my text while this is happening and try again, but it's getting to be a severe impediment to participation (translation: it's a royal pain in the donkey)
Anybody else? (I assume I'll be told ' the problem is at your end...')
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Just a few observations on connectors:
4mm bullets are fine electrically, but when connected, present you with an unyielding 'bar' about 3" long. Wrangling two of these into a compact battery compartment can be a pain. To get around this, I switched to 3.5mm bullets as a standard, because these were shorter, but there came a time where so many batteries had XT60 as standard that it became easier to adapt the ESC's rather than the batteries, so I've standardised on XT60s. I still have a couple of 'jumpers' in the battery bag. These are XT60s with 3.5 and 4mm bullets soldered directly to the contacts of the XT60, mechanically reinforced with a slug of brass tube in the solder buckets. People were sniffy about my 3.5mm connectors until I pointed out that XT60s are in fact 3.5mm bullets in a fancy plastic moulding...
In any installation the connector that gets the most exercise and wear is the bullet/male connector on the ESC. The batteries are rotated, but this connector gets used all the time. I found it good practice to either replace the bullet or the entire connector periodically, to ensure continued good connection.
Re 6 and 8mm bullets - I considered these as they looked shorter than the 4mm, but obviously had better current handling and lower resistance. Has anybody tried them and are they in fact shorter than 4mms?
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Yup, it's the larger version I'm after, for a 40 (ish) 4 stroke - though I might shrink it a bit to use a Saito 30 🙂
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Hi all,
Anybody have a set of 'Schiffermuller' plans they'd be happy to part with, or lend for a consideration?
Ta.
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I disagree a bit with the 'neutral CG' notion. If, in order to fly inverted you have to put a little, continuous forward pressure on the stick to remain S&L, its a constant reminder that, in this scenario, 'forward = up'.
I fly a foamy 'F3A' practice aircraft which is CG neutral and (to me) flying inverted seems uncomfortable if I'm not leaning on the stick a bit.
Also, as a general rule, if you get 'spooked' while inverted, always roll out!
Servo Lead Extensions
in All Things Model Flying
Posted
Personally, on wing servo extensions or anywhere where a higher voltage (>4.8v) battery is being used. I'd also use them if they were all I had in 'stock'!