Mike T

I've been using Southern Modelcraft fuel for 25+ years on the recommendation of the late Paul Landells, owner of Just Engines. It's never given me the slightest cause for concern. Their prices have gone up, but only very modestly as far as I can see. A few years ago, a gallon (i.e. 4.55L) of 5% was about £17 - it's now about £20. Quite reasonable. The price of MT has gone up quite steeply, but if you want more exotic oil mixes, then it looks like that's the price you pay (literally). ML70 is just fine for me. That said, it seems the prices of all modelling goods have increased exponentially over the last 5 years or so. The pandemic certainly had an effect, but so did other factors, that we can't discuss here (which is probably for the best...)

My favourite bit of egregious over-packaging: Two bit of self-adhesive foam for the headband on my headphones. A jiffy bag required, at most 🙂

...but don't use on any fabric that's going to be doped.

Clipped his ear... ...missing his brain by 4 feet...

Most likely not relevant, but on my old JR set which has 8* programmable mixes, you have to set up the 2nd ele. on one of the lower (i.e. 4 to 8 ) mixes in order for the master elevator trim to control both servos. It took me several years of ownership to find that out... This may also be the case on an older tx like the Aurora. * I think... 🤨

A retrograde step in my view. I think inherent physical safety of the vehicle (for those outside as well as in) should be separate from driver aids. Including them discriminates against inherently 'safe' but cheaper cars that don't have all the whistles and bells. I'm generally happy with all the 'toys' in my Volvo. The stop/start seems to work only when required and switching it off in e.g. stop/start traffic is a one-push button job. The auto lights work well and the auto wipers (switchable) have a sensitivity setting. The cruise control is not dynamic and doesn't work as seamlessly as the one on my old Mazda did, which was somewhat like the 'hand throttle' on a classic Bentley! 🙂 Annoying things include the electric handbrake, which is frankly dangerous. Counter-intuitively it requires a push to set - I've rolled more than once... I went to check the oil not long after I got it and failed to find a dipstick. It hasn't got one - it's electric. What chump thought that up?

Forgot to mention that I built the tail surfaces to scale outline. That saved weight, but probably didn't help the slight pitch-instability 😏

plus a servo tester...

Pretty certain the OP's Pup is a DB, if it's 77" wingspan. The cowl is overlong, but can be shortened if, early in the build, you set back bulkhead into the fus., as I did with mine. You don't have to take much off to make it look quite acceptable. As much weight as possible is forward, including servo, ign. and rx batteries (plus a chunk of brass bar as ballast). Even so, it's still a bit 'tender'...

Which is exactly what the BMFA themselves say and have done since the scheme was established. That the 'A' test it is used as a basic test of competence by very many Clubs is testament to the level of capability at which it is set - and also to the common sense of Clubs who adopt it as a transferable standard. (Try turning up at my Club without an 'A' and expecting to fly solo because "my last Club thought I was OK...") Also common sense is Clubs asking new members or visitors with an 'A' to do a demo flight under supervision (or as suggested above, keeping a quiet eye on them as they prepare to fly, to judge whether any intervention may be required).

Not something you'd want to advertise...

A 3542 would be fine (or even a 3536) but as Shaun and Geoff say, go with a lower kV (8-900ish) and a larger 12 or 13" prop.

Full disclosure: I've since been informed it was World Models Toughlon from Steve Webb! 😁 So -another worth looking into. Solarfilm polyester - was heavier than 'solarfilm' but not to be confused with Solarspan (which I believe was polyprop, like the 'film. The specific reason I used the polyester was because it was proof against petrol... Re HK film - if you filter by 'UK' and 'in stock' you get zero results...

Thanks for the input, all. I'd forgotten about the 4-max stuff - will have to look in to that. Easycoat - yes, I bought a couple of rolls and it is disappointingly 'diaphanous', so no good on sheet, but might look effective on (say) open structure glider wings. Interestingly, a friend brought a newly completed Nijhuis TSR2 to the field yesterday. I asked about the covering. "Ripmax" he said "I like that it's completely opaque..." He also brought a DSM Aerostar, which looked immaculate. I thought it was new, but it was all original - built in 1985 and covered in Solarfilm polyester, which I know of old. A product Solarfilm should have pushed much harder.

Does anybody know what differences (if any) there are between Easycoat, McGregor covering and Ripmax Aerofilm? How do they compare with Solarfilm or Hobbyking? Any preferences? PS - I exclude Ora from comparison as it's out of my price range!

I've used the SM 15/2 oiled fuels for over 20years. The 2% castor is neither here not there and I agree that at that level, it wouldn't be missed. I'd just use it an d make the change when you next buy more (mail order coming soon, so they say...)

Ah! A Meatloaf moment ('You took the words right out of my mouth...') I built mine for (early) electric and nursed it round one sedate circuit. It quickly got 'engined' with an original OS 40 4S (currently running a 40 Surpass) and it now it's as sedate or hooliganly as you like. It's the only plane that makes my rolling circles look good. The only thing that rules it out for the 'B' is that it won't spin properly. And I disagree with the notion that these planes were designed for 'pottering'. They were designed to climb to height fast with a screaming diesel or petrol and trimmed for a long flat glide. To the OP I'd say the Astro Hog is a good candidate, but with a needlessly complicated build. I'd suggest going on 'Outerzone' and use the matrix search function to narrow down your desired size to the mid '1940s to mid-1960's date range...

Do you know if her parents had any particular one in mind when they named her?

If you use sheet metal (P-K) screws, which are 'thread-formers' then they may well bind and shear. If they start to go stiff on you, quit while you're ahead and use the soldering iron trick to heat the nylon and free them off. Then replace with a new screw. The only way to avoid binding is to drill (or ream) the pilot hole for the screw's shank slightly over size, or preferably use thread cutting screws, which have a spiral flute to clear swarf. Also beware removing and replacing them too often, else they can go slack and you then need to drill out for the next size up! Re screws vs through bolts, I tend to err on the cautious side and use bolts on .60's up. But the fact that the screw heads sheared is testament to the grip of the thread in the nylon...

Similarly, I suspect we all know the answer, but the forum rules won't allow me to say what's the last thing that goes through a fly's head when it hits your windscreen...

...I should have added that bungees stretched across the grab handles are great for holding wing panels up against the headlining 🙂

I like that. I already have one bar, in the shape of my Volvo's tonneau cover. I'm going to make a second, to rest on the rear door cappings, with some padded 'tee' pieces to bear (lightly!) against the window glass and locate it fore and aft. I even have some pipe lagging hanging around...

This...

Nice. Reminds me of a GA Monospar

I don't own a Laser (never will...), that's why I qualified with an 'if' 🙂 Still, it would be an easier method for most other engines - except that the manufacturers of most other engines sensibly cast or engraved their engines capacities on them...