Mike T

We included something similar in our rules when the CAA guff first came in. As said before, that means we only check two things: BMFA membership via the Portal and Club fees via our bank statement. For all other 'legal' issues, the onus is on the member.

Whatever gloves you use, the biggest problem IMV is that the metal tx sticks suck the heat out of your fingers. I get around this by fitting some nylon 3mm (Futaba) or 4mm (JR) screws in to the adjuster holes on the stick tops, then put several layers of heatshrink over all. If you trim it long at the top, then the edge it provides will give sufficient grip for those who insist (despite the best advice) on flying with their thumbs only...

A washer and screw in the arm pivot hole? Only light contact with the inner bearing race would be required.

I'm just idly wondering how long it would take Andy S to compose an email which addressed all the arcane membership renewal practices of the BMFA's constituent Clubs. (Terrifying thought: how long would the actual email be?) 😉 Renewal via the portal is a godsend. The Club Sec can see exactly who has/n't paid their BMFA and the Treasurer can look on online banking to monitor Club fees coming through. No need to check paperwork 'at the gate'.

@John Lee - thanks - hadn't spotted that!

Apologies if there's a reference in previous posts, but there's a BMFA EGM on the 26 Nov at 7pm to discuss the budget and ergo the fees. I've registered as a club delegate, but received no acknowledgement or zoom joining link. Anybody else?

This is my Mark Rittinger 'Super Sportwin. Wings by 'Bill', the rest from stock. 3542/1000 motors, 40A Hobbywing ESCs and Banggood retracts. I found out the hard way that when you build a twin, you effectively commit yourself to building 3 fuselages! I maidened it a month or so ago and it flew superbly. The second flight - not so much... The wing survived, as did the tail feathers and all the hatches. So when I've summoned up the willpower, I'll build 3 more ^%^*&% fuselages (and 'character' as well, apparently...)

I haven't tried it (yet), but I hear a lot of talk about 'habotai silk'. The cheapest form is actually a lightweight polyester and is used as dress-lining and in floristry (apparently!). I get the impression it's a bit like (and applied a bit like) lightweight nylon. It comes off a roll in a variety of colours. One big advantage on something like the Blackburn, is that you've not got all that 'wasted' adhesive on the open areas. PS - I believe Diacov is French? It used to be fairly cheap here, when Solartex was still a thing, but now it's gone, the price has gone up. Funny, that...

Mine was... What/who are 'traditional' flyers?

So in a nutshell: If your OP ID was 'grandfathered' via an A or B, then you don't need to do anything (except keep a copy of any CAA notification for reference) If you did the CAA's DMARES test, then you need to fill in the form linked in Andy's email, so the BMFA can log your Flyer ID info.

I set up a charging station a few years ago. Don't let yours get like mine! 😁

Gosh! Back in the days when the performance of motors and speed controllers actually exceeded their nominal specs! 😀 Talking of back in the day, in the late '90s or thereabouts I was looking for a a less noisy replacement for the Merco 35 fitted to my Precedent Funfly. The engine I bought has been fitted in two successive Funfly's (as well as a dreadful pink ARTF Sukhoi 26) and is still running in my current Funfly, built in 2020. This engine just starts and runs and runs and runs. Laydeez an' Gen'lmen - I give you - the Thunder Tiger GP42. Honourable mentions go to my OS40FS - a pleasant plodder - and my Moki 210 - a surprisingly tractable savage beast (also easily converted to petrol/ign.)

An idle thought: couldn't you achieve much the same effect (decompressing) with an extra washer under the plug?

My J60 has the u/c in the designed position and gives no problems. The forward positioning gives the plane it's characteristic appearance and stance. If you're that concerned about ground handling, then maybe the Super 60 is a better option?

The setting at the aileron you describe should give more up than down (assuming your Ruckus is standard with the servos and control horns are installed on the wing underside). How are the servo horns positioned? Is there a stray mix in your Tx that you haven't got rid of?

LOL. Here's the fus of my Pup painted in Flair PC10. It looks pretty much like the back end of your Mannock. I noticed that when the PC10 can is opened, the paint looks very green (as in the front end of your pic), but when stirred, turns brown.

Prompted by this topic, I opened up an old Powercraft drill which due to an obvious switch problem, had ceased working. The switch/speed controller couldn't be saved, so I removed it and bridged the gap by soldering in a piece of copper wire. I now have a working drill, albeit one that runs at full bore. I've ordered an inline cord switch, to make it a little handier. While I was doing that, I took a punt on this drill. I wasn't expecting an awful lot, but I've been pleasantly surprised. It's a bit chunkier than the Powercraft (and certainly more so than a Dremel) but has the bonus of a quite nice keyed chuck, which will take up to 6mm. The machined collar suggests it could be mounted in a press of some sort.

Donkeys years ago, I built an all-sheet Sopwith Triplane from Gordon Whitehead's free Aeromodeller plan. For the PC 10, I experimented with some Humbrol enamels and came up with the following formulation: 10 tinlets of Dark Earth; 10 tinlets of Dark Green; 1 tinlet of black. Mixed together in a jar, these gave a pleasing colour which looked distinctly brown in strong sunlight and ditto green in poor light! This seemed to me to satisfactorily resolve all the arguments. I've noticed that Flair Spectrum PC10 seems to have the same qualities and is still being produced under the Guild Chroma brand.

A word of caution on wallpaper paste. I bought some cheap patching paste to use on my first attempt at brown-papering over the carved/sanded pink foam nose of a friend's Vulcan. It went on fine and I left it to dry overnight. When I picked it up in the morning, it all flaked away (albeit each piece kept its shape, perfectly formed!). I tried again with the same result. I gave up and returned the plane to my friend who got it to work using 'Mod Podge' (a thickish PVA-ish concoction used by diorama modellers). So based on my limited experience, I'd advise sticking (lol) with PVA!

Yeah, I lived in the EU for 45 years as well, until I was removed by some people who have an unnaturally amorous relationship with fabric-based emblems of national identity...😉

I agree with Peter that it's an impossible question to answer, but not for the reasons he's given. You simply have not given enough information. Do you know what aircraft it is and/or have you attempted to find out? Try posting up a few pictures. In short - throw us a bone here!

Unfortunately I think it is rocket science, but at least it's not brain surgery...

I like the compactness of the Kestrel. I'd probably not be able to resist cutting down the fus and wings on a Hawk, which would defeat the object a bit 🙂

The EU has the Consumer Rights Directive, which probably gives better protection, so not a complete waste of time...

The Hawk 70 is very Magister-ish, albeit with De Havilland-y tail feathers 🙂